Title: rework galore.
Got the mis-drilled hole in the R/H Elevator control horn welded up, but there were several deep grind marks where the welder smoothed it down that I wasn't happy with. Since that elevator had set marks in the skin in a couple of places, I elected to just rebuild it. Before I ordered parts, I thought I'd go ahead and do SB14-02-05 for elevator spar cracking on the left one, since I already had the SB kit and that way if I messed it up, I could order another elevator and not have to pay twice for shipping. The SB wasn't hard to do, although I had to grind down the side of a pop rivet puller to get clearance on one of the new cherry rivets. To my utter disappointment, afterward, the L/H elevator no longer seemed to line up with the center bearing. When I pinned it onto the H/S, at the middle and outbid hinges, the center bolt didn't drop home like it had before. You could slide it in with just light finger pressure, but could hear and feel the threads rasping on the hole in the control horn as it slid in. I originally thought that one of the nut plates that the heim joints screw into must have shifted when I reinstalled it after the SB, but I knew that I hadn't oversized the holes, so if that was the case, it would have been a microscopic change. I logged 5 hours for this entry, but troubleshooting this and head scratching took probably double that. Ultimately, I discovered that the hole that the previous kit owners had drilled was perfectly aligned when the elevator was in trail, which is what I had experienced when I did the trial fit a few weeks ago, but wobbled by about 1/64" out of plane when I swung the elevator up or down. It wasn't enough to even see with the naked eye until it reached pretty much full up or down travel. This is a tiny alignment issue, and at first I assumed it was because the elevator horn weldment was maybe crooked where the tube welds onto the flange that rivets to the spar and end rib. Honestly, if I hadn't already been planning to rebuild the other one, I would probably just have lived with it, but the hinge line for the trim tab isn't perfect, and since I was planning to rebuild the r/h one anyway, I elected to just do them both, so I'll have a matched set. I got curious about whether this might have been the same situation with the r/h elevator control horn mis-drilled hole, but I had already unskinned it to see if I could reuse the spars etc so I couldn't re-install it to see if the hole lined up in one position vs. another. On the r/h elevator, once I got it unskinned I had discovered one of the E-702 spar to E-704 counterbalance rib rivets had some sort of catastrophe, and they had replaced it with a giant LP style pop rivet, including a 1/8" doubler to account for the extra grip length. I ditched the idea of reusing anything except maybe the counterweights at that point. Since I was already in autopsy mode, I now went back and drilled the control horn off the r/h elevator skeleton out of curiosity and discovered that on the 4 rivets under it that are common to the E-702 spar & the E-709 root rib, all of the countersinks were proud by probably at least 3-4 thousandths. I don't know if this would be enough to cause the control horn to sit crooked and hose up the alignment, but it certainly didn't help. Thought that I could probably salvage something out of this, so I went ahead and profiled the counterweights, which hadn't been done, and cut down the r/h one per print while it was still attached to the tip rib, so I'd have something to hold onto while cutting it on my band saw. I then drilled off the counterweight skin and removed it. Was only a little surprised at this point to see that they had evidently forgotten to install it before riveting the skin onto the ribs so they had grooved around the countersinks in order to be able to slide it in after the fact. Since I was ordering parts anyway, and given the learning curve they were evidently going through at this point in the build, I decided to build a new rudder as well. On the old one, the skin has a mushroom set mark in it and there is a 1.5" long gouge from hangar rash pretty much right in the middle of one skin. My original plan was to just have these addressed with a few grams of sand and fill during paint, but the more I think about it, the more I don't want to "settle" by having filler on a flight control, especially one that has historically has issued with skin cracks. It's a slippery slope, But I'll sleep better knowing that I've put together all the tail surfaces per print/mil-spec and there's no hidden band aides in areas that can't be inspected once everything is closed up. I'm glad I got this kit on the cheap, and that I really just bought it for the wings, because at this point the only component of the empennage that I'm not rebuilding is the v/s, which appears to be fine and unblemished.


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