Finished off and attached the control stick mounts yesterday. The plans imply that they're permanently mounted now so I went ahead and torqued them and applied torque putty, but I have a sneaking suspicion that they may need to come out again for one reason or another. Time will tell. It also says that nows a good time to trim and rig the control stick assy, so I worked on that this morning. The control sticks ride in a brass bushing that slips into a clevis on each end of the cross tube. They come too long to fit into the clevis so you have to file them down to a slip fit. Same with the bushing. The plans say both should be a slip fit, but Vans Airforce says the bushing should be a little longer so that in gets captured when you tighten a bolt through the whole thing. that way the stick weldment rotates on the bushing, rather than the bushing rotating on the bolt. I know if you take too much off, the sticks will end up having too much free play, so I was careful here. Filed the stick weldments by hand a little at a time until there is about .010" gap in the weldment tube, and made the brass bushings a slip fit (.010" longer than the stick weldments) by chucking them up in my drill press and sanding the end down on some 100 grit sandpaper. Took a long time because I was going a little at a time and then checking, but the sticks should be buttery smooth. The print also says you should ream the bushings out to .25" One of them needed reaming, but the other one was already .25" without reaming, so I don't know what that's about. Adjusted the sticks for parallel with the heim joints on the control column pushrod tube. Parallel turned out to be 18 1/2" inside to inside between the two sticks. Everything in the stick assy is done, so I took it back apart, primed all the raw edges and put it on the shelf for now. Had some extra time this afternoon, so I went ahead and countersunk the upper flanges for nutplates. I used oops rivets for these so I didn't have to take much off the flanges. Just did the countersinks by hand with a bit in my dogleg deburring tool. After countersinking, I primed the raw aluminum with some zinc phosphate primer on a q tip. My std practice for installing a nut plate is to snug it down with a cut off screw and 1 cleco, so I can make sure there isn't enough slop in it to interfere with installing a screw later. This worked fine on the aft bulkhead flange, but for some reason the pre-drilled holes on the fwd one were undersized and a #8 screw wouldn't go through them. The print definitely shows them being the same as the aft one, but it seemed weird that they would be different, so I reached out to VAF to confirm that I wasn't missing anything. Confirmed that they should indeed be #8 screws, so I reamed all the holes out with a #19 reamer, primed the hole bores and installed the nutplates in them per print.