Hey been out of the shop for about a week due to the AEA training class in KC, and spending a few days with my folks. Mom had a pacemaker put in a couple of months ago and had a follow up procedure on the 12th. Seemed to go okay set was in/out of same day. Got back into the shop and decided to work on the aileron trim before I went any further with the center section structure. Seems like it would be easier to do it now than standing on my head n the cockpit later. Many cups of coffee were drunk, and it was a nice unhurried low stress way to spend the afternoon. NOTE- you have to drill out a couple of nut plates in the tunnel ribs in order to install the bracket that the bell crank rotates in. Don't know if it's the same for manual trim, but if you're installing electric trim, save yourself the hassle and skip installing these two nutplates when you are working on these ribs. Drilled the required holes in the nylon block on my drill press to get them straight, then assembled the rotating assembly. Set the servo in the neutral position by running the arm back and forth with a 9v battery and noting 1/2 travel. I thought I was going to have to make a trip to the store for a new 9v because the one I had been using was MIA, and nothing in the house uses them except the smoke alarms, which, with 12' ceilings, are a hassle to reach. Then I remembered that the ceiling fans had remotes, and sure enough, when I popped the back off one, it was a 9v, Yay! The biggest challenge with this whole operation is getting the cotter pins through the little pins that go through the linkages. They fit super tight, almost like the pins aren't long enough, or they need a thin washer or something. they are so tiny I don't have this washers that small and none came in the kit, so that's definitely the way it goes together. I suspect it will loosen up a bit as it's used when the nylon arm coming out of the servo wears a little. The instructions on this are pretty straightforward, but it's tight to work in the tunnel and match drill the servo to the rib. Not sure how I would have got this done without a 90* drill motor. One area that was a little bit of a head scratcher was the callout to countersink through the mount plate into the bearing block. This definitely knife edges the plate, but after thinking about it for a while, I realized that it would also remove less material from the nylon block to do it this way vs. dimpling, so I countersunk by eye with a zero flute countersink in my drill press. Got everything assembled, match drilled, etc. per print, and then took it all back apart to have access for riveting/bucking the belly skin.