Spent some tim this morning peeling all the blue vinyl off the inside of the tailcone and vacuuming all the shavings etc out of the whole thing. That stuff gets everywhere and rolling it upright caused a bunch more to appear from wherever it had been hiding. Cleaned up the shop, including breaking down the extensions on my saw horses. I included a picture below in case anybody reads this and is wondering what to use. These are just simple plastic horses from Lowes. I drilled a couple of 2x4 extensions to the top with sheet rock screws, which ensured that the boards wouldn't fall off, but it's not like they were cinched down tight through the plastic, so I wrapped a healthy amount of duct tape around them as well. The front horse had a 1x6 attached flat on top of the 2x4 which allowed some wiggle room when it came time to maneuver the center section onto it. Worked great! I spent a lot of time leveling this. I had built a fuselage cart from plans and dimensions I found on VAF. I'm only 5'10", so I shortened everything by 2" from the plans and the longerons hit me mid-chest. When I leveled it laterally, I had to raise the tail about 3" so if I were doing this again, I would take that into account when I built the stand. When all the leveling was done, I drilled the aft deck to the longerons. The plans have a warning about making sure that there's no twist in the fuselage before you drill this, because, in Vans words, "drilling the aft deck to the longerons makes the fuselage torsionally rigid, any twist built in will be there forever." The process I used was to use a 4' spirit level across the fwd fuselage. I checked it in a couple of different locations, and when I was happy with it, I put a digital protractor on the level and zeroed it out, then moved it to the aft deck and checked it there. It took very little wiggling to get this right. Basically just aligning the edges of the deck parallel with the longerons and centered between them did it. Once I was happy, I clamped the aft deck to the longerons with a ton of clamps, checked it again and then drilled to the longerons with a new #30 bit. After everything was done, the difference between the front and back varied between 0.00* and 0.20*, depending on what station I measured it from. I believe that's as close as I am capable of making it without heavy factory fixtures, so I'm pretty happy.