I had a trip to Missouri to see my folks recently and then a trip to Scottsdale. The housing market is so hot out there right now that we made the decision to sell out home there and I spend about a week getting it ready for showings then putting it on the market. It went on the market about 4 pm last Tuesday and on Wednesday we had 6 showings and two offers. Crazy! Now that it's selling, I'm headed back out there tonight to spend about 10 days or so getting rid of the furniture etc. While I was there last week, I connected with another RV builder, Alex Hardt. He and his wife are also building an RV7 and are a little further along than I am. It was really cool to spend the evening talking airplanes and I look forward to running into him again in the future. With all that going on, I haven't been working on the plane much, but in addition to that stuff, I've honestly just had some analysis paralysis. The next step is to close out the baggage side walls and floors, and before doing that, I needed to lock down antenna placement, and conflicting wire runs, and if I'm going to install steps. Opinions are divided on steps. There are those who say it's stupid to put them on a taildragger, and those who say it's a big step up onto the wing without them, especially as you get older. Those who have installed them have typically shortened them by about 4". Knowing this, I ordered a set of steps with the fuse kit with the intent of having a welder shorten them, but after talking to a couple of weld shops, including the one who Cessna sub contracted with to build the steps for the TTX, tI have a concern about them either cracking over time or being beefed up enough to not crack, but having an unsightly bead at the splice. I've prepped the baggage ribs for steps by trimming appropriately during that phase, but think at this point I'm going to just put a soft rivet in the index hole in the skin and move on. If I decide in the future that it's a hassle to not have them, I can always drill off the baggage floors and install them later. On the subject of antenna; Tons of RV's out there have both com antenna on the bottom, side by side basically at the main wing spar. Guys will tell you they have good luck with this location, but I have some concerns about the signal being blocked while on ground or clearance or whatever, and I've had a couple of avionics guys, including one who is a former Garmin systems engineer who now runs teh avionics shop at Lees Summit, tell me that with the 10w transmitters that I'm buying, I'll almost certainly have xmit bleedover if the com antennas are less than about 4' apart. Garmin says the min line of sight distance should be more like 8' which is clearly impossible on something as small as an RV7, but that it can be less if they aren't line of site i.e. one on top and one on bottom. I hate the idea of a com antenna on top, because they're ugly, but I don't want to create operational problems either just because I'm trying to make it pretty. Right now Plan A is to put them in tandem on the bottom per the installation drawing on the SteinAir website, with one on the centerline just aft of the main spar and one on the centerline in the tailbone about 4' aft. Plan B is to stick with the fwd bottom location, but move the second one to the upper tailcone aft of the slider rail. Both of those options require a similar cable run, so I think I've got a plan for now. There are provisions per Vans to drill a couple more access holes for wiring in the F-705 bulkhead, and I see that lots of people have run conduit under the baggage floor so I decided to do the same. The conduit that I have on hand from Vans is sized fro a 3/4' hole, which seem like overkill for what I want, so I went with 5/8' holes and some 1/2' conduit that I sourced locally. I also added a couple of .032' doubled at the penetrations through the F-706 because it's only .025" and I'm more comfortable if it's beefed back up there a little bit. Even though Vans has previously told people that extra holes there are fine, I'll sleep better knowing that I stuck some beefy doublers in there. I stuck some wire tie mounts down and ensured that they were going to stay stuck by supplementing the 3m tape already on them with a dollop of pro seal at each, then wire tied the conduit so it's not just a free space run between bulkheads. Now, I'm comfortable buttoning the baggage floor up and in the future when I run wiring and other systems, I have the option of both sides of the tunnel as well as these two conduit runs. I can't imagine that won't be enough places to stick wires through.