If you look at these log entries strictly in chronological order, it seems like I'm jumping around randomly, but there's somewhat of a method to my madness. In this case, I really don't want to have to crawl back into the tail come any more than absolutely necessary. I'm going to have to get back there to route the canbus wiring, install the elevator servo, install the aft comm antenna, and work on the spine for the slider canopy. It's getting to a point that I need to start wiring, so I wanted to get the canopy slider ready to go at the same time. During initial canopy fabrication, I had temporarily installed the RV8 slider spine with just a couple of screws. The Supertrax comes with a 10" spine extension for the RV7 spine, but I knew from VAF that the RV8 spine was a nice solution, because it starts out longer and eliminates the need for the extension. I had ordered those components with the finish kit, but was unsure how much I could trim off the aft end, so I left it full length until now. So, in order to make the tailcone crawl in only a couple of trips, the first domino that needs to fall at this point is the complete supertrax installation. If you've watched the video on the FlyBoys Accessories website, you know what this is all about. I found the installation to be just as straightforward as I've been led to believe. Lot's and lots of measuring and laying out, but no surprises. For the fwd screw, I went with screw location "B" per the instructions, and for the screw in the trigger guard area I pulled the hole fwd and outbd as much as possible, given the constraints of the trigger guard. Both of these were done with edge distance on the underlying gusset in mind. By taking this into consideration, I was able to get 3/8" E.D. on that gusset at the aft location and significantly more on the fwd one. Note; The plans warn you that you will likely need shims at the screw holes to elevate the tracks to match the existing Van's straight tracks, and they give you a bunch of .025 shims to use as needed. I ended up needing 2 shims at each location, and I trimmed them to the exact footprint of the new track, so they are all but invisible now. They give you an approximate dimension as a starting point that has the fwd end of the new track 3" fwd of the fwd edge of the existing stop block. It worked out well on my installation to located it exactly 3 1/8" fwd. In my case, both sides are identical. I trimmed, rounded, filed, smoothed, etc. the tracks to try to eliminate opportunities to catch clothing on them, especially since the fwd end is basically right at your outboard shoulder when seated. I also cut the aft end at an angle to match the profile of the tailcone skin. On the aft supports, the instructions and the only video have you use 2 pan head #8 screws and lock nuts on the bottom end and one on the top. They include this hardware in the kit. I reasoned taht this kit is designed to be installed on existing aircraft, ofter by people who don't have fabrication tooling within arms reach, so I elected to do it a little differently. I installed a nut plate in the track rather that having to deal with a nut for that screw, and I just riveted at the lower location. Works good, and I was able to determine that I can cut about 2" off the aft end of the spine track. Now all that's left is to crawl back there and put a wrench on it to take those two fasteners out, cut it off and reinstall. cool