Installed stick grip etc. I can't resolve the Arinc issue until I can spend some time with power on to troubleshoot, and my power supply hasn't come in yet, so I worked on some other stuff today. I'm a somewhat linear thinker, and I find it really difficult to put one problem in the parking lot and move on, so I wanted to do something fun and not too mentally taxing because that Arinc and pin issue I mentioned yesterday are still forefront in my mind. With that in mind, I decided to install the stick grip for fun, and also because a lot of the system inputs are on the buttons on the super dooper tosten military grip and it will have to be installed sooner rather than later for stuff to work. You have to cut off a shocking amount of the Van's stick to clear the panel with this grip. Specifically, the grip and attach mechanism are about 6.5" tall. I measured this several times, sat in the airplane with this in simulated flight position etc and ended up cutting 7" off the stick. This is around 1/2 of the stick cut off, which looks like way too much, but in fact makes the top of this stick grip only about 1" below the bottom of the panel at full fwd travel. I cut the stick with a plumbing tubing cutter that I had laying around and that already had a somewhat dull cutting wheel. It took a while to get through the steel tube, but I didn't want to use my good cutter that I'm using for fuel lines. I dressed the edges so the bushing would insert freely, measured and drilled for the set screw, and put everything together. The height is perfect. I played around with how to route the wire harness. and came to the conclusion that the best solution is to just run the bundle straight out the bottom of the stick. I came from Tosten with 40" of wire thats nicely chafe protected, and that length/size is skinny enough to come straight out the bottom between the heim joints for the aileron pushrods and then go fwd through a spar passthrough and be terminated/spliced in front of the spar. I see guys who run these to a terminal block or d sub connector under the seat and go fwd from there, but I don't see the advantage to that, so I'm going to take advantage of the length of wire that came installed and run it as far fwd as possible while still leaving a service loop, then splice in with d-sub pins heat shrinked together to the wires that will carry the button signals fwd to the panel devices. I'm rapidly running out of holes in the spar to poke wires through, so before I commit to a routing, I need to make sure I leave myself a method of getting pitot and AOA tubes fwd and VOR coax aft as well. That led to a couple of hours of experimenting with a couple of short pieces of tube to see how this might all work out as some kind of wire based Tetris. I'm so glad I took advantage of Van's supplemental engineering and drilled those extra access holes in the spars way back when. There's simply no way this would have worked out without them, as every one will be crammed full of stuff by the time this is over. I also started working on fwf wiring and installed 2 inline fuses and attached the leads for my ammeter, but forgot to get a picture. Wrapped up the day by sitting on a stool and pondering how to get static tube from the left side rail behind the panel over to the AHRS, chafe protection where it exits out from under the side rail, stuff like that. Not much progress in that area, but lots of thinking about options.