Started rigging/adjusting the wings. Where the wings want to naturally fall when plugged in at the main spar is pretty close as far as sweep. Hung 4 plumb bobs per instructions and they were swept fwd maybe 3/8" at the tip before I did anything. Spent probably an hour getting the fuselage as level as possible in both directions. Bought a really expensive digital level just for this job and got it measuring between 0 and 0.1 degree I had leveled it before we plugged the wings in, but with all the hopping in and out of the plane during that operation, it required a little fine tuning. Vans tells you that you may have to have the wings on and off a couple of times. If you need to move the tips aft for sweep you can only go so far before something will bottom out at the aft spar attach and need to be trimmed. In my case, life is good, because just as the fwd finger of the aft spar cary through hits the rib flange on the wing and prevents further travel of the wingtips aft, the sweep zeroed out and the triangulation became as perfect as I'm capable of making it. So, the fwd fork on the fuselage side is exactly as long as it's possible to be. On the wing side, The spar stub could have been about 1/8" longer. I didn't build my wings, but there is a dimension for the aft spar stub on the wing side where you cut some off of it during wing assembly. This is because this part is common to the RV7 and RV8 and it's longer on the 8. Long story short, the print shows you how much to cut off, but it doesn't have a reference point that gives you a way to measure how much should be left after. I've been looking at that stub for a couple of years now, hoping that the bros who built these wings were accurate when they trimmed the ends of that spar stub because it would really suck if it was too short. life is good, like I said, the spar stubs could have been left about 1/8" longer before they would have bottomed out on the fuselage, but with everything adjusted where I want it, I have about 1/4"" laterally and about 5/16" vertically to locate the center of the bolt hole and maintain the ultra critical 5/8" edge distance. Everything I've just written took about an hour, so what gives with the 16 hours logged over 2 days for this entry? In addition to the normal instructions, Vans has a supplemental service letter type document in the tech support section of their web site that gives additional guidance on this. One of the things they mention is that you should mount the flaps to see if you can get them to nest under the fuse while you're messing with angle of incidence. I spent the entire rest of thursday and all day friday trying to get those darn flaps to fit. Vans tells you that you will likely have to trim the inbd upper flap skin to get them clearance to retract, but in my case, I was having to cut so much off that the rivet heads on the support structure that the flap pushrod attached to was going to be the limiting factor, not the skin. What the heck? I've got these trimmed back as much as physically possible and only have about 1/32" clearance with the fuselage side skin. clearly not enough to guarantee it won't be scrubbing paint off there during flap operation. Thought about this overnight and when I came back to it on friday I had a plan of attack. You position the flaps laterally by first positioning the ailerons, then setting the gap between ailerons and flaps to 1/4". Way back a couple of years ago when I bought these wings, I measured this all out and had the prescribed 1/4" all the way around (or so my build log says) but there is some leeway for "adjust as necessary" in how you stack up washers on the aileron hinge pivot bolts to get them where you want them. Re-adjusted the washer stackup and was able to move the ailerons outboard the thickness of one washer which is only about .060, but every little bit helps. measured the flap/aileron gap and discovered that it's actually more like 5/16", so I have room to move the flaps outboard. Kind of a hassle, but it's that or live with a tiny paint-destroying gap on the inboard side. Fortunately, I've got plenty of extra piano hinge. I had ordered some from spruce with the intent attaching the wingtips with it and UPS damaged/bent the shipping tube in transit, so Spruce sent me more for free. Was able to use the unbent sections from the damaged tube for cowl stuff, and have several replacement 6' sections on the shelf Drilled the hinge half off both flaps and relocated new hinge about 1/16" inbd on flap. This moved the flap laterally outbd 1/16" so now I have the prescribed 1/4" gap between flap and aileron, but I also have 3/32 to 1/8" gap at the fuselage. This isn't he first time I've noticed on this kit that if you give yourself more than the prescribed margins somewhere, it can cause a problem somewhere else later. But wow. who wold think that 1/16" on something a sloppy as a piano hinge could case so much trouble! I feel like I went down a rabbit trail on this, because it started out as just seeing if the flaps would nest at the proscribed angle of incidence, but it's done and I've verified that hey flaps are indeed fitting nicely and I won't have to cut off the inboard lower skins or otherwise take heroic measures to make them fit. I'm including beauty shots of the triangulation and sweep adjustments below, but I'm going to have to do it all over again before locking the wings down. Need to make sure I didn't jostle something while I was messing around with the flaps and ailerons.