So- Now I know why everybody kicks this can down the road as long as possible. Not exactly a fun project. HOWEVER, I strongly recommend knocking this out before you get the engine and wings on, because it required a ton of on and off for trimming and adjusting, and it would really suck to have to do these while scrunched up under the wing. It took several days to get this done. Including research and building fixtures I think I've worked on it about 28 hours over the last week. Step one was to true up the seam between front and back halves. The front half has a scribe line about 1/4" from the edge, but several people told me that they ignored the scribe line and just trued them up with local sanding to get the seam matching, so I went that way and it worked out well. On both pants there is a slight gap on the lower inboard side. If the intersection fairing doesn't cover it up, I'll do some fiberglass magic to fill it later. Need to get the weight off wheels and get the plane level. This means that I need a tail stand about 42" tall. All the commercial solutions that I found at harbor freight or Lowe's seemed a little spindly when you start getting them that tall, so I spend a couple of hours building a robust stand out of 2x4s. I also built a jig to capture the wheel pant that has lag screws on each corner so that I can adjust for level and tilt and it will stay where I put it. Total cost was about $45 for supplies, and I think it was money well spent. One casualty of this project; I dropped my 20 year old plastic speed square that already had a crack in it. When it hit the floor it absolutely shattered. replacement = about $7 at harbor freight :) Leveled the fuse with the tail on the stand and my engine hoist lifting the engine mount. Leveled longitudinally easily, laterally by shimming with blocks under the wheel opposite the one I was working on, then used a ratchet strap pulling down on 40 lbs of free weights to keep it from swaying side to side on the hoist. No real secret or shortcuts to this that I can see. Other than building a fixture to hold the pant and eventually using a laser to define tilt and parallel I just followed the written instructions. Dropped a couple of plumb lines to find the centerline, then measured out and drew some reference lines on the floor to make sure I got the pants parallel to the centerline of the fuselage. In my case, this was 37.25" from centerline, but because the wheels are canted, this measurement will vary depending on how high off the floor the wheels are. Once I had this line defined, I lined up a laser on it, with the tilt defined by the tire tread grooves. After everything was defined, I did what seemed like 100 iterations of on/off to trim enough to get clearance for the wheel and axle. All trimming was done with my dremmel with an abrasive disc and a flapper sanding bit. Match drilled the holes for the mounting brackets using magnets, That went well on the first one, but when I moved to the other side, one of the holes was off about 3/16" I think what happened was that even though the magnets are round, they still have poles and they weren't quite lined up because the inner one was latched on to the nutplate with the poles sideways. Lesson learned, If you use the magnets, make sure you wiggle them around a bit to make sure they are actually stuck on the center of the hole. I started at about 0700 this morning and finished the first one about 1300. As with most things, the second one went much faster since I now knew what the heck I was doing, and I knocked it out in a couple of hours. One other thing- I had previously installed flex brake lines and the hole in the pant would need to be pretty big to accommodate the radius where it comes off the caliper. I don't have intersection fairings yet and am unsure how big that hole can actually be without causing problems. I pulled the lines off and think I may just go old school with bent solid lines per print. I've got plenty of tube to make them from, so I'm going to sleep on it.