In a previous entry, I mentioned how the baffle ramps were pretty far off from aligning with the cowl inlets. There is a process in the RV14 baffle plans for building up the lower edge of the cowl inlets for better alignment. There really isn't any guidance on what to do if the vertical fences in by the spinner don't line up. The RV7 baffle instructions have you match drill all the pieces of the baffle to match the cowl, but I'm using the rv14 baffles which are pre-drilled on the assumption is that they will just fit there. Turns out that in this combo (rv14 baffles to the RV7 cowl), that doesn't necessarily hold true. The "before" pictures below show that the pre-drilled ramps result in the inboard vertical pieces being too far outboard. The need to be pulled inboard maybe 3/8" on order to allow the rubber baffle material to lay the right way in the air stream. The options here are to rebuild the cowl inlets, or to rework the baffles. Seems like in this instance, reworking the baffles is the lesser of two evils, so after some careful measurements, the fwd baffles came off, a bunch of rivets got drilled out, and they were adjusted for an appropriate fit. I ended up moving both sides inboard such that I left about 1/2" clearance between the baffle plates and the flywheel, which should be plenty since the baffles move with the engine. The distance was not symmetrical on both sides, so careful measuring is in order. Due to the way the baffle rivet flanges are oriented, I was able to just redrill new holes on the port side, but on the starboard I ended up fabricating an angle gusset to tie the vertical face into the ramp. Everything was dimpled/countersunk appropriately, painted to match, and riveted per standard shop practices, then reinstalled. Have to leave on a trip tomorrow, so I'm going to work on my engine dehydrator a bit and then come back to this when I return next week.