The upper cooling ramps on the RV7 are designed with an aft prop governor in mind, but I'm installing an IO390 which has a fwd governor. The baffles kit I have for the RV14 describe a method of cutting out a stair-step shaped hole in the l/h baffle to relieve interference with the governor and then backing it up with a piece of close cell foam. Nothing wrong with that I suppose, but it seemed prone to eventual air leakage around decaying foam etc. I'm having to do some modifications to the baffles anyway, so it seems like I could likely do better. I worked on this with lots of mock ups and trial and error over several days. Based on what somebody else on VAF has had success with, I elected to cut out a bigger concave scallop and then back fill it with fiberglass. I then fabricated an additional baffle piece that will allow for installation of rubber baffle material over the top of the governor to match. I used blind rivets to affix the new baffles pieces around the governor so that they're easy to drill out if I need to remove the governor and then installed an extension on the upper edge of the inner r/h baffle where I needed to change the shape to better match the inlet ramp there. The gap between the baffle pieces and the base of the prop governor is about 3/16" so it will require drilling out some pop rivets to take this apart if I need to remove the governor, but I went with this tight clearance because it allowed my to just fill that gap with RTV instead of messing around with baffle rubber there. If I had this to do over, I don't think I'd use the RV14 baffle kit for this particular installation. They went together nicely and fit the engine like a glove, but they required trimming and adjustment in odd places in order to make them fit the cowling. Trimming is no big deal except when there were pre-punched holes in exactly the wrong place, but I don't like having to add flanges and whatnot. It would have been nice to have the RV7 IO360 baffles that I could have just trimmed down to size without having to add anything. As part of this same process, I also started fitting the fwd baffle rubbers and have the lowers fitting pretty good. They are acceptable as is and should be just about perfect once the engine sags a bit. I'd like to just press on and hammer out these baffles, but the temp dropped from the 90's to the 70's over the weekend, which seems like a sign that fall is right around the corner. Based on that, I'm going to hold up on this and shift over to canopy skirts and then install the windshield and windshield fairing while I still have a few hot days to keep the plexiglass happy.