Since I had wrapped up all the prep work yesterday, today was just hammer down fiberglass layups. I used 7.5 oz glass and US composites 3:1 epoxy. I know that some people are in love with the West Systems products, but you'll also find several folks who have had problems with it. I've used US Composites epoxy quite a few times on boat projects. It seems to hold up well and I've never had a problem with it blushing or failing to get hard as nails. A while back I posed the question on VAF to see if anybody had ever used it on their RV project. Several people had and said that they've had no problems over time, so I decided to stick with what I know. The 3:1 product has about a 20 minute pot life, and a set time of 3-4 hours, depending on temperature. In case anybody is reading this for tips, pot life is the amount of time you have to work with it after mixing before it starts to set. Set time is the amount of time you have to add another layer on top and still have it chemically bond with the previous layer. The way I mix this is with calibrated pumps that screw into the jugs similar to how bathroom liquid soap pumper works 3 pumps of epoxy, 1 pump of catalyst fills a red solo cup about 1/2 way. Stir it with a popsicle stick for about 20 seconds it's ready to go. Thats also about the amount I can work with in 20 minutes so it works out well. I pre-cut all the fiberglass into strips of 7"x 42" for the sides and 7"x 24" (approx.) that wrap from the back corners up around the turtle deck. For the first ply, I wetted out the glass on 3 mil plastic strips to apply them more easily. Just stick them in place, squish them down thru the plastic with a squeegee, then peel the plastic off. Ezee Pezee. For subsequent plies, I just stuck the dry glass onto the sticky layer that was already there and wetted it out in place with a 2" paint brush from the Dollar Store. I took care to jostle this around so that they seams were staggered to ensure a stronger finished product. At the end of each layer I threw away the brush and grabbed a new one due to the previously mentioned pot life. I might also mention that in for the dog house around the canopy slider track I had just taped the metal dog house from Vans kit in place and taped over it as part of my prep. Larry Larson said in his Kit Planes article that doing it this way would result in the finished hole being too big. In his case, he used that component at a mold to form a smaller doghouse mold out of a soda can. I see his point, but in my case a trial fit showed that the white plastic piece that slides on the track and is supposed to nest in the doghouse when the canopy is closed is actually already too big to fit in the Vans doghouse. It would need to be sanded down significantly. I think using the existing dog house as a mold and having the hole larger by the thickness of that original piece will result in less sanding shaping on the plastic block, but will still result in a tight fit. At any rate, I covered the doghouse area with several plies cut on the bias to encourage them to conform to the curves of that part. Each layer in that area overlaps or underlaps the end of the pieces that wrap up the fuselage sides. I applied 4 layers of 7.5 oz glass this way. After the 4th layer, I covered the layup with peel ply and squeegee'd it out. Tomorrow I'll remove the peel ply. If I have any high spots I'll sand them down as much as I dare. Then I'll fill any low spots with a thin flox mix, cover that with a 5th layer of cloth, and then more peel ply and squeegee it into something approximating its final shape.