Jeez this is a messy job. But nothing really new about this process. as far as masking and prep I basically just followed the steps in Larry Larson's kit planes articles again I slid the canopy closed and positioned the windscreen so the aft edge was flush with they leading edge of the canopy. In order to do this, I used pieces of split hose spacers and small aluminum tabs & clecoes. Oops! When I riveted on the forward skin, I forgot that I was using two existing holes for these tabs and accidentally riveted them, so in order use the center two tabs/clecos I had to drill out those two rivets. Once I was happy with how it was laying, I marked the location of the spacers on the fwd edge of the canopy, because any marks on the windshield bow would be lost during the Sika prep process. I took it all apart again and I scuffed all the mating surfaces with red scotchbright, then followed the application steps for activator and primer. Note- I wanted to prime the entire roll bar at once, but was unsure if the vinyl tube spacers would stick to the primer one it flashed off, so I did a test piece and using scrap and it was no problem at all, so I did the entire roll bar. Since I was working by myself, I figured that trying to lay down a bead of sika and then drop the windscreen down on it would lead to a big mess. Instead, I positioned the plexiglass dry, briefly slid the canopy closed and positioned the hose spacers per the marks I had previously made on the canopy leading edge. I then clamped everything in place and applied the Sika glue. Since I now had a bunch of spring clamps holding it in position at the roll bar, I was able to remove a few clecoes at a time without it shifting significantly and raise up the fwd edge enough to lay a bead in there little bit at a time. I worked my way around the whole lower edge that way, then squirted a bead into the aft edge, skipping the area where the hose spacers and spring clamps were holding it. On the inside base at the fwd edge of the glare shield, I had envisioned smoothing a nice radius with a popsicle stick, but the ergonomics of that just didn't work out well for me, so after a couple of false starts, I just used my gloved finger. I got a pretty good result, but also got some smears and drizzles of sika where I don't want them. fortunately, one that stuff dries you can peel it off anywhere there isn't a primer base for it to stick to. I'll give this a few days to get good and hard, then come back and fill in the areas where the spacers are, finish the fillets etc. and then clean up. One other thing I might mention; The top center didn't really need any spacers, but I didn't want he plexiglass to be in direct contact with the roll bar. It just seems like thats probably one of the higher stress areas because of repetitively cinching down the canopy latch. Seemed like maybe a minimal space there might be desirable to give the joint a bit of ability to flex, so I used a piece of weed eater string as a spacer there for that purpose.