Fairings, Gear Leg to Fuselage My fairing is detachable, wrapped around the leading edge of the gear leg so that it cannot go through the prop. It was my 3rd set that finally turned out strong, light and with good shape. I recommend the following process: a) The gear leg is fully faired and painted before making the fairing, with a minimum 3/8ths inch clearance where the leg enters the fuse. The fairing is made with the aircraft on wing stands so that the legs hang as they will in flight. b) Cover the working areas of the gear leg and plane with packing tape. Do not attempt to form curves with packing tape – it serves as a release wax, not a mold. Have a tape “tail” extending off the gear leg trailing edge. c) Wrap a 2 layer BID collar around the top of the gear leg. The collar has to extend past the trailing edge, and secure it with plastic clips or clamps. Peel ply the heck out of this collar. Post cure, remove the peel ply. d) Now use blue foam to form the compound curves. Use adhesive spray to assemble smaller pieces into a block that fits snugly against the packing tape. Shape with a rasp, then cover with micro, then sand to a smooth casting surface. e) Working on the airplane, mark and cut 2 layer BID to smoothly fit the compound curve. This layer is the upper side of the fairing, extending from the fuse wall, over the transition curve and down to the gear leg collar. The hard part is getting the layer to wrap around the leading edge. Apply peel ply – this will have to be pieced due to the compound curve. Figure out a way to hold this snug against the fuse side while it cures – I used a heck of a lot of plastic sheeting and tape. Post cure, remove the peel ply. f) Working on the airplane, mark and cut 2 layer BID to fit smoothly and form the lower side of the fairing, extending from the leading edge of the gear leg collar, over the main gear cover and making a smooth join to the trailing edge of the gear leg. Apply peel ply. Figure out a way to hold this against the underside while it cures – I used a heck of a lot of plastic sheeting and tape. Post cure, remove the peel ply. g) Last layer! On the plane, cut a piece of BID to wrap around the leading edge and back into the upper and lower pieces. Peel ply. Post cure, remove the peel ply. h) Assess the result on the plane. If 90% on shape, coverage and surface smoothness, OK to remove. (If not, evaluate whether to repair or try again.) Remove by sliding the collar down to the wheel, then removing from this narrower point. i) Off the plane, inspect again. Repair as necessary. (I ended up adding a quarter sized patch to reinforce a point at the upper edge of the fairing.) Trim the fairings to get good edges and to remove the excess trailing edge “tail”. j) Fill with dry micro and sand, then epoxy wipe to get a paintable surface. For extra credit, look to the inside of the fairing and use pure epoxy to seal the foam blocks. k) When satisfied and painted, the gear legs are secured with a trace amount of latex caulk. Dot the caulk on the top 2” of the gear leg, then slide the finished fairing up the leg and into position. These fairings will have a snug fit on the gear legs and a pleasing shape without excess wetted area.