It doesn't seem that I got much done but I did spend quite a bit of time on the project today. First of all I planed the rearspar cap strips that I had glued the day prior. It's always fun and satisfying turning solid wood into shavings. I added an additional stiffener for the tip rib on the bottom edge. This will provide gluing area for the underside skin where it angles upward from the bottom of the tip rib to the tip bow. While at it, I laid out the skins again considering the best approach to sheet the wing. I've considered this a few times and I believe I've settled on the best plan. This requires a slight change to the original design, but then again, the plane wasn't built exactly as originally designed, and as an amateur built, I can make changes as I see fit. The biggest change is to the leading edge. On the original, the outboard 2/3rds of the wing uses a light (1 cm x 1cm) stringer along the extreme leading edge. The skins were steamed and formed to wrap around the leading edge. This wouldn't be so bad at the root section of the wing, but at the tip, the ribs are thin and the leading edge profile is sharp. The skin would have to wrap around something less than a 1" radius at the tip. I just don't have the tools or skills to do that in my shop with this 2.5 mm Finnish Birch. Additionally, that layout would require an awkward and wasteful use of the sheeting. I've decided to build the leading edge in a different manner. I'm going to run 1/2" square stringers, top and bottom, 1.5" back from the leading edge. I'll notch the ribs to allow the stringers to sit into the ribs. Once the stringers are in place, I will remove the section of ribs forward of the stringer. The stringers will provide a significant gluing area for the skins and once the wing is closed up, I will glue a leading edge cap onto the front edge of the stringers and skins. I will then shape the cap to provide the leading edge profile. This is similar to how my 1-Design was built. I'm making some slight variations to the 1-Design arrangement to better suit the Dalotel but it will provide a stronger leading edge and a much easier construction than the original design. I will use a router to remove some of the material on the backside of the leading edge cap, but that's a ways down the road. Although this design will be a little bit heavier than the original, my plans for arranging the sheeting on the wing will allow me to remove the cap strips that are on the main spar, so the weight gained will be offset by the weight lost. I think it will be a wash. The net effect will be an additional pound or two to each wing. From what Ray tells me, the original wing had a lot of heavy filler slathered over it to make it smooth. The way I've planned the sheeting will require minimal, if any filler, so the wings may end up being lighter than the originals. We'll never know. So after all that thinking and designing, I ripped some douglas fir into 13' long stringers and then ran them through the thickness planer to get to my desired 1/2" x 1/2". I cut out notches in the ribs for the underside stringer and discovered that I now had to add stiffeners to each of them. Not a big deal, just one step back for 2 steps forward, so added those stiffeners and now wait for the glue to dry.