I don't like the AeroVee valve covers. They don't actually cool as well as the thin steel stock covers, and they leak. BUT the stock units won't clear the valve train with the Elephant Foot adjusters, and the high lift cam in the Aerovee. I don't necessarily recommend anyone do as I have done, but I: 1) ground down the rocker arms to get more clearance for adjustment and articulation - those Elephant Foot adjusters are TALL between the rocker and the valve stem. This step in NOT necessary with the "Courier" or "Captive Ball" adjusters currently provided with the AeroVee kits. 2) cut down the adjusters till the slot in the end just about disappeared, cut a new slot, and dressed the ends. 3) Pounded precision dents in the tin valve covers to clear the tips of the adjusters. 4) Cleaned up the chipped paint, painted them inside and out with rattle can black, and baked the dried parts in my toaster oven for an hour at 200 deg F. Convection. 5) Bought the best silicone valve cover gaskets I could find. Buttoned it all back together. Notice my rocker arms use the "clips and wavy washers". Current AeroVee kits use "bolt together" rocker arm shafts. For the moderate lift and low RPM of our engines, I think this is fine, but there is no question the "bolt together" rocker arms are more secure. Everything is assembled with Red Line Synthetic Assembly Lube, which the GearHeads at my local NAPA swear by. I found caked up Lubriplate in several places in this engine, which was first assembled over 20 years ago. The rocker arms and adjusters on this engine are from CB Performance, and use 3/8" x 24 tpi threads, which is NOT the same as stock, and is no longer the aftermarket standard. They were used on AeroVees up until 2006. I'm trying to track down some replacement adjusters, SCAT seems to still make that size. If I can't find any, I'll have to replace the rocker arms as well as the adjusters.