3/24/2021 – 2.2 hours The pro-seal on the foam ribs in the elevators and trim tab needs a few days to cure, so I decided to move on to some of the final trim tab items. The first task was to bend the trim tab hinge pin so the end lines up with the inside of the rear spar where it will be safety-wired in place. There was nothing high-tech about bending the hinge pin. I measured the location of the bend, clamped the hinge pin between a couple small pieces of wood, and applied a little elbow grease until I had a 90-degree bend. The second bend was a little more difficult because it is 90-degrees to the first bend and there isn't as much hinge pin material left to push on, but the process was essentially the same. The process finished by trimming the end of the hinge pin to fit inside the rear spar and deburring the cut end. The first bit of electrical work on the airplane starts with the wire harness to the trim tab servo. The harness is pre-made, but the plans direct you to trim the corners of one of the molex connectors to fit through the bushing in the front spar and to seal the trimmed end with silicone. The tabs to be trimmed are very small, and it really doesn't take much to get the connector to fit easily through the bushing. I bought a tube of silicon from my local home-improvement store that was advertised as flexible. It is easy to get to the wire harness later through the trim tab servo access panel if it needs to be changed later. The final task of the evening was dimpling and countersinking the trim tab servo access panel. I used the #6 screw dimple dies from the #27 holes, and the #40 countersink cutter for the holes to rivet the servo supports to the panel. [Bench Vise, Clamps, Dremel, 1 1/2" Metal Cutting Wheel, Bench Grinder, 6” grinding and cut-and-polish wheels, 150 Grit Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper, 22” C-Frame, #6 Screw Dimple Dies, Microstop Countersink Cage, #40 Countersink Cutter, GE Advanced Silicone, Razor Blade] 4/2/2021 – 0.4 hours My roll of 0.032' stainless steel safety wire arrived in the mail to complete the trim tab hinge pin assembly. There are some good safety wire videos in the EAA Hints for Homebuilders video library including one about hand-twisting safety wire. I don't have safety wire pliers, and used the hand-twist method with good success. It took a couple of tries, but eventually I managed a tight, even twist. [Diagonal Cutters, Needle-nose Pliers, 0.032” Stainless Steel Safety Wire] 4/10/2021 – 1.6 hours I wasn't happy with the way the servo trim access panel worked out, so I ordered a new one from Van's. The replacement parts arrived, and I jumped into preparing them. I deburred the holes and edges on the access panel and the servo-support C-channels. I then dimpled the large holes on the access panel and countersunk the small holes. The countersink results were the problem last time, but I corrected the errors on the new parts by clecoing the C-channels into place to provide additional support for the countersink guide and countersinking a little further. The countersinks came out clean, and the rivets should sit flush. [150 Grit Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper, 22” C-Frame, #6 Screw Dimple Dies, Microstop Countersink Cage, #40 Countersink Cutter] 4/11/2021 – 2.0 hours The primer on the trim servo access plate and C-channels was probably my best effort yet! I let the primer dry overnight, and then assembled the parts to complete the trim servo assembly. There is just enough access for the pneumatic squeezer to set the rivets for the C—channels, which turned out much better than the first attempt. I then put the servo motor in place, final drilled the holes in the plastic casing, and blind-riveted the motor to the C-channels. The final step was quite an eye and dexterity test. I took my first step into the world of electrical connections by crimping micro-molex connectors to the ends of the 5 trim servo wires. Two wires power the servo back and forth, and the other 3 provide servo position information to the avionics. I bought a basic set of tools from Steinair, and found a video on their website of how to use the crimpers. The crimping went well, and I managed to insert the wired pins into the connector with some difficulty orienting the pins to the connector. I also tested the motor with a 9-volt battery, and confirmed my connectors on the two power wires are good. [Pneumatic Squeezer, Flat Rivet Sets, Blind Rivet Puller, Automatic Wire Stripper, MOLEX/Open Barreled Pin Crimper, Magnifying Glass, Flush Wire Cutters]