3/28/2021 – 5.1 hours 3/29/2021 – 2.1 hours The last major task on the elevators is rolling the leading edges, similar to the finishing task on the rudder. I started by rechecking all of the leading edge holes and edges to ensure they were properly deburred. I then used the edge-forming tool to put a slight break in the leading edge of the top elevator skins. The break helps the top skin fit tightly against the bottom skin when they are riveted together. The edge-forming tool can be tricky to work with, and things can go wrong very quickly; but practice from previous attempts with the tool resulted in no surprises this time around. Rolling the edges essentially requires you to place the skin to be curved on the workbench, tape a pipe to the edge of the skin, and then roll the pipe toward the spar resulting in a curve in the leading edge. One of the keys to this operation is ensuring the pipe is pressed down as it is turned to avoid creasing the skin where it intersects the spar. That is not a natural motion, and requires a couple sets of hands to effectively roll while pressing. I was working alone, and I saw another builder who made a rolling jig that was affixed to the workbench. I made a few tweaks to that design and came up with bushings that had an inner diameter slightly larger than the pipe I was using to roll the leading edges. I lined the bushings up with the gaps in the leading edges and clamped them to the table. I then inserted the pipe and taped it to the skin on the table. The bushings held the pipe down really well, and I could focus almost exclusively on the rolling action. A nice side-effect of using PVC bushings is I could crank down the clamp at the end of each roll to hold the pipe in place while I repositioned the vise-grips for the next crank. I initially used bushings that were nearly the same width as the gap in the skins, but cut them in half later on to give me better access with the vise-grips to the rolling pipe. I also sanded one edge of the bushings flat to keep the rolling pipe closer to the workbench and the skins and to make it easier to clamp the bushing down. The rolling jig works great and is very easy to set up. I highly recommend it for solo and team rolling operations! The other key is to have a pipe of the correct outside diameter to form the curve. I used a 1” OD pipe for the rudder, and I felt like the curve was formed too sharp and close to the end. I did a lot of manual rework to make the curve more uniform from the spar forward on the rudder. I decided to use a 1.3” OD diameter pipe for the elevators to form the initial curve, and then I followed up with the 1” OD pipe. The result was a nice smooth curve from the spar to the edge of the skin that lined up well with the opposite skin after it was rolled. There is still a bit of a gap between the two skins, and a little hand pressure is required to get the gap to close and align the holes in the top and bottom skins. I used strips of duct tape between each of the holes to help me apply the pressure evenly and align the holes. I inserted clecos into the holes after they were aligned with the duct tape. I remember trying to insert clecos in the rudder leading edge without the duct tape holding things closed, resulting in damage to the holes from pulling against the clecos. The duct tape removes that stress and the clecos can go in damage-free. [1.3” OD and 1” OD PVC Pipe, PVC Bushings (made from larger PVC pipe and/or couplings), Gorilla Duct Tape (lots of it!), Vise-Grip Pliers, Bench Clamps] 3/30/2021 – 1.2 hours Blind (pop) rivets are used to attach the leading edges of the rolled elevator skins. The rivet locations were easy to access, and the holes lined up well to make the riveting process relatively straight-forward. I removed the duct tape straps I had placed between each of the holes after riveting each section of the leading edges. The edge break in the top skins resulted in a gap-free fit when riveted to the bottom skins. I noticed that the plans do not include a template for the leading edge shape like they did for the rudder, but the shape looks about right to me. [Blind (pop) Rivet Puller] 4/11/2021 – 0.3 hours I finished the elevators by installing the trim tab servo assembly into the left elevator. The space for the servo looks pretty big, and I was surprised by how tight the fight actually is. The pitch trim servo motor wires routed easily through the snap busing in the forward spar, and there is plenty of wire to wrap around the elevator horn for now. I also attached the trim tab push rod to the trim tab horn. I secured the clevis pins at both ends of the push rod with tape for now, since I wasn't sure if I should actually bend them at this point or leave then straight so they can be easily removed later. I also didn't completely torque the access panel screws assuming the panel will come back off at some point before first flight. [Phillips Head Screw Driver]