Title: 13-02 - J-Channel
Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut) 10/29/2021 – 2.4 hours 10/30/2021 – 2.7 hours 10/31/2021 – 2.8 hours 11/1/2021 – 2.4 hours 11/2/2021 – 3.4 hours 11/3/2021 – 1.8 hours Work on the wing has begun! I expect the next 9 – 12 months will be filled with challenges that are hopefully rewarded with safe and functional wings for the RV-14. The very first step provided the first minor challenge to figure out. The wing kit is delivered with 6 sections of J-Channel that are 96” (8') long and 4 sections of J-Channel that are 72” (6') long. The J-Channels are used in this step to create 8 wing box J-Channels that will be used later to attach the upper and lower wing skins. Each wing gets two long J-Channels (upper and lower for each wing) and two short J-Channels (upper and lower for each wing). The plans specify the lengths for each part, but do not state which J-Channel sections to use for the parts. The plans also don't mention that you need to make 4 more J-Stiffeners (leading edge left and right and tank left and right). The bottom line is you need to plan how to use the J-Channel sections, or you'll end up ordering more later because you won't have pieces long enough for the later steps. I looked through all of the wing plans and came up with the table below on how to get all 12 parts out of the supplied J-Channel. The trick here is to use the 8' J-Channel for the short wing box J-Channels as well as the long ones, and save the 6' J-Channels for the leading edge and tank J—Stiffeners. Sheet // Part // Length // Part // Length // J-Channel 13-02 W-00009A-L 73 9/32” 96” 13-02 W-00009A-L 73 9/32” 96” 13-02. W-00009A-R 73 9/32” 96” 13-02 W-00009A-R 73 9/32” 96” 13-02 W-00009B-L 46 1/8” W-00009B-R 46 1/8” 96” 13-02 W-00009B-L 46 1/8” W-00009B-R 46 1/8” 96” 17-03 W-00008-L 59 3/8” 72” 17-03 W-00008-R 59 3/8” 72” 18-03 T-00003-L 54” 72” 18-03. T-00003-R 54” 72” Match-drilling the J-Channel to the spar flanges takes time because there are a lot of holes, but isn't overly complicated. The trickiest part is getting the J-Channel in the right location and orientation, and then lining it up with 1/16” of the J-Channel above the spar flange. I saw a tip from another builder who used his rivet gauge to help find the 1/16” offset. My rivet gauge, like his, is made from 1/16” thick aluminum. Simply set the gauge on top of the flange, raise the J-Channel until the edge is even with the top of the gauge, and clamp the J-Channel in place. Take time to drill each hole, and cleco every hole as you drill. I used the rivet gauge frequently to ensure the J-Channel stayed aligned with the flange. I used BoeLube on the drill bit to keep the bit working as well as possible to create clean holes. [Dremel with Metal Cutting Disk, Hole and Edge Deburring Tools, #40 Drill, Cleco Clamps, Spring Clamps, Hand Seamer]


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