Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut) 1/4/22 – 0.6h 2/18/22 – 2.1h 2/19/22 – 1.8h 2/23/22 – 1.6h 2/27/22 – 1.2h 3/1/22 – 0.9h 3/2/22 – 1.0h 3/4/22 – 0.4h 3/18/22 – 1.0h Rear spar assembly starts with some final part preparation including straightening the rear spar reinforcement fork and the rear spar doubler plate. I went back to my method of bridging the part bow side up across a couple small pieces of wood trim, and then applying pressure with a c-clamp at the middle of the bowed area to straighten the part. This process goes pretty quickly, and is very controllable to get a uniformly straight part. The individual parts, including the doublers from the previous step, are cleco'd to the rear spar to final drill all of the common attach holes. There are also 6 holes through the reinforcement fork to final drill through the spar and rib flanges. After all the parts are drilled and countersunk (see below), it's time to disassemble and debur. [C-Clamp, #30 Drill, Hole and Edge Deburring Tools} Final Prep (Dimple, Countersink, and Shape) 2/26/22 – 1.7h 2/27/22 – 0.7h 3/5/22 – 1.5h The rear spar has a few holes to countersink including the bottom holes in the rear wing attach doubler plate and the top flanges common to the rear spar doublers. I started with the #30 holes in the wing attach doubler plates. The bottom six holes are countersunk to fit the head of a NA426AD4 rivet, and the six holes above them are countersunk for a dimpled 0.020” skin (about .005” deeper). The final countersunk holes are the #40 holes in the flange of the rear spar that correspond to the 3 doublers. The holes in the top and bottom flanges of the rear spars are dimpled where there are no countersinks. I wanted to use the C-Frame to dimple the holes, but that was impractical do to the length of the rear spars. I used the pneumatic squeezer for the dimples with good results. [#30 Countersink Cutter and Microstop Countersink Cage, #40 Countersink Cutter and Microstop Countersink Cage, Pneumatic Squeezer, Reduced Diameter 3/32 Dimple Die) Edge Forming Tool (Vise Grip Style), Hole and Edge Deburring Tools, 22” C-Frame with #40 Reduced Diameter, #30, and #40 Standard Diameter Dimple Dies, Pneumatic Squeezer with #40 Reduced Diameter Dimple Die] Prime 3/4/22 – 0.9h 3/6/22 – 1.3h 3/18/22 – 0.4h 3/19/22 – 2.0h The final step of preparing parts for assembly is priming. I did the priming in phases as I finished individual parts. I liked breaking this task up into smaller sessions than one or two really long sessions. It also helped me keep parts for the left and right spars separate and marked properly. [Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)] Assemble 3/14/22 – 0.8h 3/19/22 – 3.3h 3/20/22 – 4.8h 3/21/22 – 1.1h 3/22/22 – 1.1h 3/23/22 – 1.0h 3/24/22 – 1.0h 3/26/22 – 3.9h Assembly of the rear spar looks deceptively simple in the plans. First you rivet six parts onto each rear spar, then you rivet the rear spars to the ribs. No problem! In reality, it is a little more complex than that. One question was orientation of the rivets. Van's doesn't specify, which means it is builders choice. Conventional practice is to put the manufactured head of the rivet on the side with the thinnest part, which would be the forward side (inside) of the spar for the thick doublers and reinforcement fork and the aft side (outside) of the spar for the thin outboard doublers. I looked at several pictures on-line to see what other builders did, and I tried to find clear pictures of how the quick-build wings are assembled. It looked like the quick-build wings put all the rivets with the manufactured head on the aft (outside) side of the spar, and several builders did that as well. That was also the approach I took to ensure maximum clearance later for flaps and ailerons, to make it easier to remove rivets (if needed), and for the aesthetic. The far outboard doubler plate went quickly with the pneumatic squeezer. Pay attention to the holes that do not get riveted and there won't be any problems. The two doubler plates in the center of the spar are a little trickier because you also have to skip the holes where the spar will be riveted to the ribs later. It is really difficult to see which holes to leave empty in the overview diagram of the wing, so I found a better picture of the rib-spar connection in the bottom skins section of the plans. I used that picture to count holes in the bottom flange of the spar to find the one that aligns with the rib for the outboard doubler. It is the row right next to the hole for the aileron pushrod. After counting holes, I noticed in the plans that the row I identified for the rib gets a different length rivet than the other doubler holes (duh!). That confirmed I had the right location to tape off. The rib locations on the reinforcement fork and inboard doubler were more obvious. The pneumatic squeezer does a good job with most of the rivets, but there are a few areas where clearance is too tight and I had to go to the rivet gun and bucking bar. Specifically, the rivets to attach the flanges of the aileron hinge to the spar are very tight. Similarly, can't get into the area cleanly for the bottom hole on the rib next to the aileron hinge because the hinge is in the way. [Pneumatic Squeezer, 1/4" Cupped Squeezer Set, Flush Squeezer Set, 3x Rivet Gun, 1/4" Cupped Rivet Set, Tungsten Bucking Bar]