First of all, the time is an estimate. It felt like eternity, so I know it was at least 20 hours. The first thing I got to do was UNdo all of the elevator stuff I did. I thought I would have enough clearance to work on the ailerons with the elevator parts there, but that was not to be. I am sure glad I fastened them with Clecos and not rivets! Where to start? Well, I've learned my lessons on thru holes for screws. Never trust that they are right, especially when there are rivnuts behind them. So, I checked and sure enough, I had to drill out the M4 thru holes in the Front Controls Top Cover Skin. That is not riveted in, at least on my build and at least at this time, so it would not have been the end of the world if I didn't open them up yet, but I knew it would be a problem later if I didn't. I riveted the main spar control bracket together and I ended up doing those with a hand riveter since i couldn't get the rivet gun in place. Then I put a few of the M4 screws to hold the bracket in place while I was working on the rest of the joystick. I had to rivet the locking ring for the bushing in place. It said to use 4 of the 4mmx10mm rivets. I say that's crazy, because I can't reach that far around, so we compromised. I installed one rivet. I was able to do the locking rings closest to the tail of the plane with the joystick assembly off, and then I did the locking ring closest to the joystick once it was in place and the bracket holding the back was in place. I'll whine about installing that bracket in just a moment, but I wanted to be clear that I did clear out the aluminum chips prior to riveting and prior to putting the top cover skin in place. Then it was back to putting the 4 M4 screws back into place for real, using washers and lock nuts and everything to make it official. I was a little concerned that the M4 screws seemed a little scrawny for holding the bracket in place, but don't worry, they are not! First thing to mention is that there is very little space for my hands in there. I didn't think they were that big, but I guess they are. I ended up doing what I did before on the brackets for the springs for the throttle cables. I taped the nut into the wrench and used that to hold it all together. It was still a challenge. One of the nuts got crossthreaded. Then the head of the screw got stripped, because that's what M4 buttonhead screw heads like to do. I didn't take pictures of the removal process, so I'll try to be descriptive. First I tried to hold the screw head with pliers and vicegrip lock pliers while turning the nut. Nothing. Then I tried to use an oscillating tool with a saw blade to cut through the screw, but it was meant for wood (I didn't have a hacksaw attachment) and the screw is stainless steel and the saw blade didn't have a chance. Then I used a big pair of pliers (18" handles) and tried to just rip the head off the top of the screw, and even after being attached with the saw, the screw held firm. I was eventually able to break the head off, which left a very "scuffed" surface for the screw to attach to. I sanded that smooth (no need for sharp edges), and *carefully* put another screw, washer, washer, and locknut on it. It worked fine, but that's 2 hours of my life I'll never get back. Then came the hard part. I put the cross control rod for the ailerons in place. This required pushing an AN4 bolt from the difficult side into a bracket, then put in two washers, then the eyebolt from the rod, then two more washers, then the other side of the bracket, then a bushing, then a 5th washer, and then the nut. I lost a lot of blood in the this process. Every time I work with sheet metal for long periods of time working on a single screw or bolt, I end up getting cut up. This was no exception. I finally got wise and pried the bracket apart a little bit, since the bolt was going to squish it all back together. I didn't get wise enough to do that until I had spent about 4 hours on this part of the build, though. After a lot of cussing, it was all finally attached. Next step was to make the joysticks parallel, at least for the ailerons. I did this with a simple a level, screwing the control rod in and out to get to the perfect length. Then I tightened the jam nuts on both sides to lock it in place. I don't know if it really needs jam nuts on both sides, especially with one being a locking nut, but I am sure that that length is now fixed until I saw otherwise! I then Cleco'ed the Aileron Control Stops into place and wanted to make sure I had the same amount of travel to the left and right, since I had heard from two other builders that it was a problem. I didn't have an inclinometer, or so I thought. I remembered that my phone had one on it, and as long as it was accurate to the nearest degree, I should be OK. I knew it was precise to the nearest degree, but I didn't know about accurate. So, I first made sure the plane was level (I'd heard stories about getting some plane part perfectly balanced, but only on tilted ground!). Then I measured the the angle of the travel for the joystick in each direction. Since I couldn't vouch for accuracy, I did the next best thing and went for repeatability. I measured each stick on the left and the right a few different times and always came up with 18 to -18 degrees of swing. I guess I was the lucky one who didn't need to modify the control stops! With that checked, the last thing to do was to install the control stops with rivets. The instructions say to rivet it down from the top of the plane, and I was about to do that and was talking with another builder. He reminded me that rivet heads should be outside the plane and rivet tails should NOT be outside the plane. Excellent reminder! The instructions were wrong, but I riveted up from the bottom and all was good. That was a lot of work, a lot of frustration, and a little bit of bleeding (which I cleaned off), so it sure does feel good to have it done! Next step is the autopilot, then back to the flaps and elevator.