I countersank the holes in the upper and lower flanges of the elevator hinge brackets. Then I match drilled the HS-411 brackets to the VA-146 bearing, deburred the brackets and bearing, primed the bearing, and then riveted them together. At first I squeezed a few -5 rivets as the plans call out, but after measuring the shop heads with calipers, I found that they were not meeting the minimums required by MIL-R-47196A. This may have to do with the added thickness from the primer, but I know from reading VAF that this is a common problem. So I drilled out the few rivets I already squeezed and then squeezed -6 rivets in all holes. The shop heads were much better after that. I finished work on the rear spar assembly by enlarging the bolt holes that will attach the bracket/bearing assembly to the rear spar. Then I started work on the forward spar assembly by separating the spar doublers and drawing the rivet lines. I spent a lot of time on this part because the plans are missing a good amount of information. After searching VAF, I found out that this part exists because of a service bulletin that addresses potential cracking issues in the forward spar. After reading the SB I got a better feel for what they instructions were talking about. With that info I was able to draw the rivet lines and match drill the doublers to the front spar. I finished the day by tapering and smoothing the ends of the reinforcement angle (HS-801-1) and splice angle (HS-814-1). This went much faster than when I did the same task on the rear spar reinforcement bars, so I guess I'm getting the hang of this. At some point during today's session, after scratching my head trying to understand why the plan drawing was missing one of my parts and had measurements that seemed off, I realized that Vans had sent me the horizontal stabilizer drawing for the RV-7 instead of the RV-8! Luckily the assemblies are pretty similar and after comparing the drawing I had been working off of to the preview plans drawing, I realized that I had thankfully not made any mistakes due to the drawing switch up. I requested the correct drawing from Vans. As for the primer, I have decided to go with Stewart Systems EkoPrime waterbased primer. My shop is in my basement and I cannot spray outside (due to cold winters and very close neighbors) and would prefer the convenience of spraying in my shop. I have sprayed solvent based finishes before, like nitrocellulose lacquer, and know how nasty and dangerous they can be. I think I could build a good enough spray booth to alleviate the risks that a different primer could have, but I also don't think I want to deal with that. I've heard good things about EkoPrime, and the primer is going to be in places that will never be touched (other than the cockpit, which I may use a different primer for or which may be sufficiently protected by paint), so I'm not worried that it might not be as tough as some alternatives. The only problem I have had so far with the primer is that a lot of solids build up on the bottom of the can and it takes a bit of time with a drill spun stirrer to mix it up.