inspected the flaps- several areas where the rivet tails aren't pretty, but none of them are clenched, so okay. I did discover an issue though. Drawing 14 has you install the aft rivet for the nutplate the CM-4 rod end bearing screws into prior to installing the FL706B plate. Then on the fwd one, you countersink & install a longer rivet through both the FL706B & the FL704 rib. It's obvious that you cant get a rivet set on the aft one if you install FL706B first.

The original guys evidently missed this step, and their solution was to shoot the aft rivet in with the shop head on the outside of the rib. That worked out okay on the left flap, but on the right flap, they actually countersunk the inside of the nutplate ear and put a flush rivet in (???) then creased the shop head on the outside with the bucking bar.

These rivets don't do anything but keep the nutplate from turning so there's nothing structural about them. I shot an email with pictures to Van's, mostly just to reassure myself that there weren't going to be any clearance issues or whatnot on down the road and the word from tech support is that it won't cause any problems and to leave well enough alone.

Here's the response I I got from Sterling Langrell at Vans:

"This one rivet being reversed should not cause any problems as it is not on the doubler where it could interfere with the push rod. Leave it alone."