Made a #10 dimple die out of a thick piece of aluminum and just used the screw pulled through it to make the counterbalance rib dimples. I used a similar process for the dimples on the skinny end of the ribs, although there I held the bar in a vise, taped the male die inside a socket and then whacked it with a hammer. Worked fine.

Clecoed everything together one final time, then started final assembly.

The print that came with the rudder parts isn't the latest rev and doesn't show the nut plate strap on top of the counterweight, although my preview plans do. Turns out it was in a bag with the hardware so I went ahead and constructed it instead of just using washers & lock nuts on the end of those screws.

Started riveting on the skins the ones in the counterbalance rib/skin/spar interface are a bear to get to, but fortunately I have a small tungsten bucking bar that fit in there. I was able to squeeze most of the rest of them. Haven't decided yet what to do with the skin rivets where the tails are inside the horn brace. If I buck them, I'll have to work through a 2" lightening hole, but I don't know if I can get to them with a squeezer. Something to figure out tomorrow.

The t.e. has a slight gap around the wedge, like maybe the dimples aren't nesting properly, but I've countersunk that wedge until the holes are knife edged (acceptable in this application according to vans) and I don't think going deeper will do anything except wallow the holes out. I looked on vans airforce and lots of guys have reported the same thing. All sorts of solutions have been tried, but most guys seem to just live with it. I'm going to sleep on it and see if a solution occurs to me.