The SB warns to only do it on completed wings if you discover cracks during annual inspection. Looking at how you would have to accomplish this on a completed wing, I think that it's safe to say the logic is that there's a pretty good chance of botching something if you do it wrong, and it's not worth taking the risk for just a preventative measure for something that may never happen.

However, my left wing still has the lower outbd skin off, so I decided that it was worth knocking it out on this wing now. In the future, I'll just have to monitor the right wing during the condition insp. and deal with it if I ever find cracks.

Step one was to drill the rivet heads off the inbd aileron hinge bracket. Slow and steady is the way to go when you're working on spars & whatnot, so I started by center drilling the rivets with a #50, then a #40, then finally a #30 just deep enough that I could snap the heads off. Once I was sure where the now exposed rivet shank was in relation to the spar etc, I drilled most of the way through the rivet with a #50, then in just a little way with a #40 in order to give my punch a shoulder to ride on without swelling up the shaft.

My daughter is home for spring break, so I conscripted her to back up the shop heads with a wood block while I smacked the other side with a pin punch and hammer and they all popped right out no problem. An autograph on the inside of the wing concluded her participation in this particular project.

After I got the hinge bracket off, I went ahead and tweaked the upper spar flange in that area to get rid of the ski jump. I'll do the rest of it when the wing is flipped over and easier to access.

Clecoed the doublers in and trial fit everything. I also confirmed that once these doublers are installed it's going to be problematic to buck a couple of those rivets. In fact, it may even be a problem to pull cherries, because the edge of the doubler angles are right under a couple of dimples and I don't know if I could get them in far enough to pull.

Vans has approved relieving the doublers so you can get a bucking bar in there or use pull rivets, so I cut an appropriate angle on the legs of the doublers. Given what's going on in there, I'm pretty sure I'm going to use MK-319BS pull rivets in those 2 holes and just be done with it (approved by vans & std industry practice).

De-burred, dressed the edges & primed the doublers, then shot them on with a 4x rivet gun, 6" long #4 universal set, and a tungsten bucking bar. These are -8 & -9 rivets and between that and the long set, I really had to crank the pressure up. I went with a "that's about right" setting and t ended up being about 80 psi at the compressor. One of the rivets is a flush head and I used a bent/ modified flush set for that one. One of teh tails is wiped over a little, but not bad enough to drill it out and risk oversizing a hole by trying to set a 3rd rivet in it. They are all within spec and I'm calling it good.