On the surface, this seems pretty straightforward, but I ran into a problem about 1/2 way through that I wanted to ponder before I got drill happy.

Per print, you're supposed to locate the most inboard nutplate for the start contactor by drilling out an existing firewall rivet and using that hole for the lower leg, then match drilling the upper nutplate leg. This would result in WAY below normal min rivet pitch with the existing firewall rivet immediately above.

I drilled the rivet out for the lower leg, then when I saw how close that big nutplate was going to be, I got the ruler out. If I drill the hole for the upper leg per print, it will only be about 7/32" or .2185". I dug out the mil-spec for this, and min pitch between two countersunk rivets is #3 rivets is .438" so basically half.

I get that manufacturer engineering takes precedence over generic mil-spec guidance, but this just doesn't seem right. I looked at a lot of build log pictures online and a bunch of people just drive ahead here and live with the sub-standard rivet spacing, but I've never seen where anybody talked to Vans about it.

I'm inclined to skip this nutplate and use a fiber lock nut on the inside, but if I do that, I won't ever be able to change this contactor by myself because somebody will have to hold the head on the outside while somebody else turns the nut on the cabin side. Seems like a bummer, but really, how often do you have to change a starter contactor, maybe once every 5-10 years?

I may call vans on this on Monday, more out of curiosity than anything.