I started this by reviewing the RV14 turntable pictures on Van's website to see if how they clocked these probes made sense for my configuration. I then reviewed the Vetterman documentation which states that ideally, EGT probes should be between 2"-2.5" from the exhaust flange.

I used a 2" section cut from a wire tie to mark around the circumference of the exhaust tubes. This measurement was taken from the lower face of the exhaust flange, which is 1/8" thick, so the reference marks measured 2 1/8" below the mating surface of the cyl exhaust port and the exhaust flange. Once I had determined how to clock them, I drilled a #30 hole this location.

Probes were mounted per the included instructions, including trimming the excess ends off the band clamps and seating the probes by alternately tightening the screw and tapping adjacent to the base of the probe with a wooden dowel rod and a light hammer.

The probes come with #4 ring terminals installed, so I crimped #4 rings on the ship side wires and connected them with the included hardware (stainless screws nuts and lock washers), then covered each pair of connections with the provided insulating sleeve.

I've never been a fan of this ring terminal/screw arrangement. It just seems prone to the connectors loosing up due to vibration. If I have a problem with this in the future I may cut these off and replace them with spade or knife connectors, or splurge on those fancy yellow connectors that Cessna uses. For now, since the rings are what came pre-installed on the probes, thats what I went with.

I had previously routed the CHT wiring behind the exhaust & intake tubes for a nice neat installation. It worked well to just add the EGT wiring to this bundle on the pilot side. On the co-pilot side, the clocking of the EGT probe for cyl #1 seemed like it made more sense to route the wiring on the outboard side of the pipes, below the valve covers. Plus, a while after doing the original routing I discovered that lots of people route the scat tube for cabin heat behind the pipes. That seems to make a lot of sense, so for those reasons I decided to undo that bundle and move all the sensor leads outboard.

People have sometimes reported fluctuating sensor readings if the sensor leads are routed in the same bundle as spark plug wires. In my case, the P-mag Spark plug wires aren't shielded, so this seems like it might be a consideration. Based on that, I routed all the leads adjacent to teh spark plug leads, but separated by means of standoffs and separate adel clamps.

After all this was wrapped up, I powered up the MFD and all sensors were indicating approximately ambient temperature, so everything appears to ops check good.

It feels good to check off another item on my punch list!