It's been about 60 hours since I applied the sika, so I figured it was dry enough to come back and finish it. So, this morning I pulled the spacers out of the windshield frame. Per my test from a few days ago, installing them over dry primer was no problem at all, they slid right out with a little tug from a pair of needle nose pliers.

I the taped off the area again on both front and back, and reactivated the existing sika glue and primer with aktivator.

Interesting side note- This sika aktivator is $25 for a 1/2 pint bottle, and it smells like it's nothing more than denatured alcohol. I have no idea if you could use alcohol for this and save yourself 25 bucks, but I think I might experiment a bit with leftovers after this air all done.

At any rate, once I had all the appropriate areas smeared with aktivator, I waited the prescribed 10 minutes for it to flash off, then applied a generous bead of new sika.

My experience trying to use popsicle sticks at that base led me to just create the fillet on the forward side with my finger and many changes of rubber gloves. On the back side, I smoothed everything out with a bondo squeegee.

Tip- when I originally ordered my supplies for installing the canopy skirt, the 10 oz tubes of sika were back ordered, so I got enough 3.5 oz tubes to do that job. I had one left over and it's MUCH easier to get one of those up on the fwd side of the windscreen than a huge caulking gun

After that, I was looking around for something else to do, and decided to address an issue I noticed a while back.

I'm putting the lower cowl on by myself, and if you do it that way you cant help bumping it on the gear legs a bit as you get it in/out of position. It had cut through the fusion tape holding teh brake lines in that area as well as cause quite a few scratches in the upper gear leg powder coat.

I started looking at this to see what was actually hitting and came to the conclusion that it was the bottom end and/or rivet tail for the vertical cowl/firewall piano hinge. I think I could have eliminated this if I'd terminated that hinge probably 1 loop higher up.

I cleaned up the scratched area with scotch bright and alcohol, then touched it up just with a bit of white rustoleum applied with a model brush. To keep it from happening again, I applied a dab of clear E-6000 adhesive to the bottom edge of the piano hinge and the nearest rivet tail. That stuff dries to an RTV like rubbery consistency, and I think that it will cushion any sharp edges.

Also, the Vans plans calls for attaching the brake lines to the gear legs with nothing more complicated than electrical tape. I find this to be an extremely hillbilly design, but electrical tape is indeed pretty tough at least when it's new, so I reapplied fusion tape where it had been damaged, then applied a couple of wraps of electrical tape over it at each location.