I rigged the flaps and configured the stops in the G3X. I don't know if it's because the motor tends to coast a bit after it stops, or if there's a little bit of slop in my POS-12 linkage. At any rate, The flaps tend to over run the target 40 degree setting when extending and the motor keeps running for a second or so after they're fully retracted. I tinkered with this for quite a while and realized that if I ran them down to about 2 degrees and told the G3X that was zero, then ran them down to about 38 degrees and told it that was 40, they would be just about perfect when they stopped. There's a bunch of different ways you can configure this, and I've got mine setup with preset stops at 10-20-30-40 degrees. When you bump the switch they will go to the next detent and stop. multiple bumps and they will go multiple stops-cool! I also set up the airspeed parameters; 20 degrees at 95kts, >20 at 86 kts.

I also ran into a potential rigging issue. The top heim joint on the flap pushrods has a bolt that is supposed to go through with the head outboard. With the flap weldment installed, there isn't room to insert the bolt from that direction because the skin is in the way.

I initially thought I could just stick them in the other way, and thats how I connected everything for rigging, but then I started thinking about it. About 30 years ago, I taxied out in a 182, that randomly started turning right and had a massively stiff ailerons. The root cause was that somebody had put one of the pedal bolts in backward and the aileron cable that was running down the aft face of the firewall was hung up on it.

That could have been a really bad day and in looking at this, I can see how sometime similar could happen. The RV rudder cables are not a tensioned closed loop, so when you're not actively pushing, there's slack in them, and if the nut and bolt threads are sticking out back there, then there's an extremely remote chance that a rudder cable could get hung up on them.

So, it seemed like I had to take half the airplane apart to get them in there, but by removing the flap motor, POS-12 and entire center brace structure, I was able to get the weldment cocked at enough of an angle that I could get the bolts in per print, with the heads out. Once that was done, I put everything back together, re torqued to spec, and ops checked. All good