Tools. I started with some automotive style crimpers. Nope. Dean Psiripoulos is a hangar neighbor and Honeywell rockets guy. He told of chasing bad connections and steered me to buying a set of tools from Stein Air. Done. I also bought a SteinAir connector assortment and an assortment of milspec wire from an auto racing firm. Following Nuckoll's guidance I went with 4 awg welding cable for the run from power center (cabin side of firewall) forward to a single location just forward of the instrument panel. I used the F22 bulkhead.

Following Keith Spreuer's advice I ran multi-conductor from the firewall forward to F22 - I have a dozen shielded 19 AWG tefzel coated wires ready for future use, with quick connect terminal blocks at each end.

I have experimented with click bond studs and click bond nutplates. I come back to the Nick Ugolini zip tie loops - see http://nickugolini.com/blog/?p=1490. For completeness, I'll repeat some of what's there. Below, the pictures from my first set, cast around square tube aluminum. My next set will be half height and a set to hold the O2 bottles. My "mold release" was packing tape and hair spray.

From Nick's blogpost:

Light weight, easy to make ZL's make it easy to attach almost anything to your fiberglass structure.

ZTL's are made by taking 3 layers of wetted glass and laying them over a rod or some square material (1/4? x 1/4? I would recommend at least 1/4? high. After curing I used my radial arm saw to cut the slots in the long strip and a pair of scissors to separate the loops. After you fabricate them (which takes very little time) you can secure them anywhere on your structure by just gluing them in place with a little bit of flox. They are so light you dont even need to secure them or hold them in place while the floxis curing. Just wet the back side and postion. They are also easy to remove. Just apply a little heat from a heat gun, and the epoxy softens and you can remove them.

ZTL's are very light weight and extremely strong. testing has proven that NO zip tie (or even doubling up the strongest zip tie I have) is as strong as the ZL. I built test rigs and have tested them to over 75 lbs of pull (tensile strength) before failure. Once cured, they will self destruct before they will come loose - I discovered the ZL will always tear through the loop before separating from the base IF you bond them directly to sanded fiberglass. If you bond them to a painted surface the attachment strength of the ZL will only be as strong as the surface material strength.

Cut the ZL to the desired length (using the fence of the bandsaw). Generally I like to cut my ZTL's about 1/2” wide. I also make them from 1/4” (for just a few wires), to 5/8” wide if I have something heaver that I want to mount such as heavy cables, or a filter. I even have a set that are 1" wide and 1/2" tall, for paired electrical cables and paired fuel and return lines. I find it's always nice to have a layup to work on, so I find these a fun part of the electrical and fuel line work.