1. Removed the hole-marking tape at the aft end of the canopy, trimmed the plastic back another 6", then re-taped the area and re-marked it. This time, the tape is nice and flush with the canopy, instead of being lumpy because of the protective plastic underneath. This will help get the skirt holes located more precisely.

2. Taped the right skirt in place and spent quite a bit of time playing with exact placements, so I could get it to fit as well as possible.

3. Transferred the hole-locator lines down onto the skirt and drilled the holes forward of the rear seat. I'll wait to drill the ones aft of the seat until after I have a close look at how the skirt fits at the aft end.

4. Trimmed off a few inches of the unneeded aft part of the skirt, where it wraps around to the left side.

5. Cut a notch at the aft end of the skirt to accommodate the center canopy rail. Progressively opened it up to get the skirt to lie flat.

6. Used a match-drill tool to locate and mark the lower rail holes. Removed the skirt and drilled these holes, then clecoed the skirt back on. The front 2/3 of the skirt actually fits quite well once it's clecoed down, and it doesn't look like it will require any major surgery to get it to lie flush.

7. While holding the aft 1/3 of the skirt against the canopy, however, it became obvious that the skirt will hover above the fuselage skin about 1/2". And I don't like where the attach holes fall on the skirt, either -- they will be right about where the bend is. I contemplated a couple of options:
a. I could cut vertical slots in the fiberglass, about 2" apart, and try to get these pieces to lie down, then re-glass the entire area.
b. I could heat the area and apply pressure -- but I've heard most people don't have good luck with that.
c. I could cut off the entire aft end of the skirt and build my own aft skirt from scratch, layup by layup. This is actually the most appealing idea to me, but I'm going to consult with a couple of friends about this before I get out my pneumatic cutting disc.