More baffle work today. It is truly baffling.

1. Match-drilled all the rivet holes in the mounting tabs for the front baffles.

2. Installed #1 side and front baffles.

3. Put on lower cowl. Checked bend on R inlet floor. It looks good.

4. Taped on mounting tab and junction of R front and R inlet floor. Match-drilled and clecoed the mounting tab.

5. Took measurements of air filter holder. Cut an 8" x 6/2" cover from a scrap of 0.032" aluminum. Marked it for the center cutout. Drilled 6 screw holes. Taped the cover in place over the filter holder. Match-drilled the screw holes.

6. Cut a 6" stiffener from 0.032" angle stock. Positioned and clamped it under the front edge of the L-inlet floor. This will strengthen the floor considerably. Removed and deburred the angle.

7. Cut the stock VA-132D attach angle into a narrow, 3/4" x 1" angle for use on my custom L inlet floor baffle. It will still fasten the #2 baffle to the L inlet floor, but in a different way, and upside down from its stock orientation. Marked and drilled the new angle, then used it as a drill guide to connect it to the filter retainer and baffle floor on one side, and to the #2 baffle on the other side.

8. Up-sized the screw holes in the air filter retention plate to #6.

9. Fabricated the CB-702M and CB-702E forward L support assembly. Screwed it to the engine. Drilled and clecoed it to the L baffle floor.

10. Traced the cabin heat inlet flange and its four attach holes onto the R inlet floor. Removed the floor, drilled the four attach holes and the 2" air hole. Clecoed the flange onto the floor to check the fit. Reinstalled the floor.

11. Marked the #1 baffle in preparation for bending its lower tab.

12. Removed #1 baffle and R inlet floor. Trimmed forward edge. Bent the 90 degree tab that will attach under the R inlet floor. Re-installed the #1 baffle and inlet floor to check the fit.

13. Cut a piece of graph paper and cut it down to the rough shape of a conical gusset for the R inlet baffling.