Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut)
3/9/23 - 1.5h
3/10/23 - 3.8h
3/11/23 - 0.7h
3/17/23 - 0.4h
3/18/23 - 2.4h
Final preparation of the flap parts includes some match and final drilling. The upper flanges of the nose ribs get each get 2 holes match drilled to the pre-drilled holes in the nose skin. The joggled flanges in the hinge brackets also get match drilled to the holes in the opposite hinge brackets that were drilled earlier. The hinge brackets are aligned by inserting the hinge bushing on the hinge bolt at the bottom of the hinge. I also used a cleco clamp as I worked my way up the flange, and then cleco'd each hole as I went. The top hole is very close to the nose skin, so I used an angle drill attachment to get a straight shot at that hole. A 12” #40 drill bit would also work for the top hinge flange hole.

The trailing edge wedge is final drilled along with the trailing edge of the top and bottom skins. Just like the rudder trailing edge, the holes are match drilled at an angle to the skin rather than perpendicular. An 84-degree angle to the skin gets the drill perpendicular to the centerline of the wedge. I held an angle gauge set to 84-degrees against the drill to align the drill properly.
[Hole and Edge Deburring Tools, #40 Drill, Angle Gauge, Angle Drill with #40 Bit, Cleco Clamps]

Final Prep (Dimple, Countersink, and Shape)
3/6/23 - 1.1h
3/12/23 - 0.5h
3/14/23 - 1.7h
3/15/23 - 1.8h
3/17/23 - 3.1h
3/18/23 - 0.7h
3/19/23 - 0.6h
3/20/23 - 2.1h
3/22/23 - 0.6h
A couple of different countersink techniques/tools are required for the flap parts. The trailing edge wedge is countersunk on both sides perpendicular to the wedge. I have a wedge drill and countersink jig that makes it easy to countersink the wedge correctly.

The hinge brackets are the other parts that need to be countersunk for double-flush rivets. This is different because the countersinks are on the joggled flanges, which prevents directly using a microstop countersink cage. The plans have you fashion a drill jig to help countersink the joggle. I tried to use the joggle jig, but struggled to set up the countersink cage correctly. I eventually decided to countersink the holes on the joggled flanges by hand with the countersink cutter on an electric screw driver. This method was effective for me, but it takes time since you need to frequently check the countersink to ensure you don't inadvertently go too deep. I typically stopped countersinking when a rivet head would sit just proud of the surface (maybe a couple of thousandths), and then I finished the countersink with a hole deburring tool.

Dimpling also requires several different tools and techniques. The C-Frame is effective to dimple the top and bottom skins. The C-Frame is also good on the nose skin aft edge holes, and for the forward 2 or three holes on the top side of the nose skin. The other top and bottom holes on the nose skin are accessible with a hand or pneumatic squeezer. The pneumatic or hand squeezer is also required for the holes in the rib and spar flanges.
[Edge Forming Tool (Vise Grip Style), Hole and Edge Deburring Tools, 22” C-Frame with #40 Reduced Diameter and #40 Standard Diameter Dimple Dies, Pneumatic Squeezer with #40 Reduced Diameter Dimple Die, Trailing Edge Wedge Drill and Countersink Jig, Microstop Countersink Cage, #40 Countersink Cutter]

Prime
3/13/23 - 2.0h
3/19/23 - 2.0h
3/20/23 - 1.0h
3/21/23 - 0.7h
3/22/23 - 0.7h
3/23/23 - 1.5h
3/24/23 - 2.0h
[Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Rust-Oleum Automotive Self Etching Primer (Green – Rattle Can)]