I finished running all of the grounds that I currently have installed to the ground bus. I have a few more but id say about 90-95% of the grounds are run. Out of an abundance of caution I ran everything back to a single ground.

I decided to use 15 pin Dsub connectors at the control stick base. I have two 5 wire each bundles running to each stick. I havent decided what I want one the stick yet so I really hope I dont run out of wires on the stick. What I figured I need at the stick so far is: ground, trim up/down, flaps maybe as there is already a switch on the dash, PTT, CWS disconnect, comm flip flop.

I have also started working on the canopy doors again. I filled in the elongated holes for the canopy doors with JB weld steel epoxy. I also finished up the canopy latches. The front ones were already done but now I finished up the aft latches. The delay was I had to wait a few months for longer latches from the factory. I needed 2mm longer on the left aft latch and 6mm longer on the right rear hatch. Everything now works as it should but the right lock is a little harder than I wish it was. One change I did make two the latches was there is a connecting rod between the front and aft latch. The factory has a plastic P clip to help hold the connecting rod. The P clip isnt long enough and you have to force the rod down to make it so you can use the flimsy P clip. Also there is a tendency for the rod to flex or bow down during unlocking. If not supported I could see this leading to the aft latch not unlocking due to the flex. So instead of the P clip that didnt really fit in the first place I used an aluminum standoff and an adel clamp around the standoff. I also greased up the rod where it contacts the connecting rod. The adel clamp and stand off are much more sturdy and it gives me a lot more confidence that the doors will unlock when I need them to.

Also, I figured out the door locks take key Y11. Thats important because I went to Lowes and bought a cabinet lock that also takes key Y11. The lock also came with longer locking latches and is just a hair longer than stock. So now that all the locks take key Y11 I had a locksmith rekey the lock so one key works on all the doors. Also with the lock itself being just a tad longer the locking latch fits perfectly behind the longeron, and as an added bonus the longer locking latch fully engages the longeron so it is a lot more secure that the factory solution where just the tip of the latch was engaged.

Lastly, I have been talking with sling to price there new throttle quadrant with a manual constant speed prop lever. I havent got the price yet but this will go into my decision of what prop I want.