Got back to work last week after having to take a break to handle life stuff. I removed the I beam support from the trailing edge of the wing and lightly sanded the bottom wing skin preparing to flip the wing right side up and skin the top. I temp glued the I beam on the now skinned bottom side and flipped the wing right side up. Trimmed the trailing edge to a nice straight edge, and trimmed all the overhanging skin from the inboard and out board ends. If you don't, the little skies of cured epoxy fibers will grab your shirts, hands, etc as you walk by!! I started the top prep by mixing a dry micro mix of Aero Poxy and glass bubbles to a thick mayo consistency and started filling in dents and dings all over the wing. There were a few gaps along the trailing edge so those got a good fill as did the leading edge. I didn't do as good a job of wrapping the triax around the leading edge from the bottom as I thought. I had a fairly rough edge that needed a lot sanding and feathering in. I used the micro mix quite a ways up around the leading edge to get a good smooth transition. This is the wing that the original kit owner started way back in 1993 so there was quite a bit of hangar rash on this wing and therefore it needed a lot of filling and sanding. The other wing foam cores were still in there original foam block so that wing won't have as much filling and sanding to get it prepped. I am taking all kinds of measurements from this wing and will build the second wing to match as best I can.
I also had to cut and glue in the rudder cable guide tube. The book says to mark the location for it parallel to the spar and use a soldering iron to melt a channel along the line for the tube to go into. Rather than create a bunch of toxic fumes, I found that a battery hold down bolt from a 65 Mustang makes a good channel router! I just laid a straight edge along the line and dragged the threaded end of the rod along it to start the channel. I then laid the rod down in the channel and pulled it back forth until it was just even with the top of the foam. This made a perfect depth for the tube! I then cut the supplied nyla flow tube and ran a bead of thin micro along the channel. I pushed the tube down into the slot and used toothpicks to hold it in place making sure it was below the surface of the foam. After it cured overnight I removed the toothpicks and slopped on some thick micro along the length. When it cured, I sanded it down smooth. After more sanding and filling over the whole surface it is now ready to skin.