After receiving all the replacements for the laser-cut parts, I picked out the ones I would need for the rudder and began prepping them for installation. The parts of concern were the rudder spar, the upper two ribs that support the counterweight, the lowest rib, the rudder horn, some of the doublers against the spar, and the skin attach pieces.
A couple of the pieces needed to be separated apart on the bandsaw, then all of the edges were deburred on the benchtop grinder with a Scotchbrite wheel. Then some scuffing of all of the new parts, followed by a wipe down with alcohol, and a quick coat of self-etching primer.
Once the primer was dry, I assembled all of the doublers, nutplates, and ribs to the rudder spar with the hand rivet squeezer. A very small number of rivets needed to be driven with the pneumatic rivet gun. The spar assembly could then be inserted back into the rest of the rudder skin that still had the rest of the ribs installed already. The rest of the process was just a matter of squeezing or pulling the rest of the rivets. I did not need to substitute any solid rivets for blind rivets, fortunately.
I opted to again use tank sealant to adhere the lead counterweight to the new top rib, then using the normal retaining screws and nutplate strip, just as I had before. This should hopefully eliminate the possibility of the counterweight coming loose over time.
Finally, the rudder horn was inserted into the bottom portion of the rudder, and then the skin attachment strips installed. Some of the rivets around the rudder horn were a little difficult to get but the right combination of squeezer yoke made it easy.
At the end of this session I managed to get the rudder back to the final state that I previously had the rudder in before the LCP issues had become publicized. All that remains is to squeeze the double-flush rivets on the trailing edge of the rudder, and then curl the leading-edge skins together.
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