I riveted all the nutplates for the rear baggage compartment wall in place, and then riveted the parachute cannister into the fuselage. The fiberglass tunnel that holds the rocket is screwed to the cannister and the skin of the plane, and the screws kept breaking. I don't know what these lousy screws are that BRS supplied, but the heads strip easily and the nuts are garbage. So, I've ordered a bunch of NAS514 screws from Spruce with a 125,000 PSI tensile strength to replace them, and some proper AN365 stop nuts. Other than that, the parachute cannister has been riveted to the skin with a combination of AN426 3 and 4 flush rivets (it's possible that this was supposed to be installed with just 3- rivets, but the countersunk holes in the case were rather wide and could fit a 4- rivet, so I just went with that), and about 20 cherrymax rivets to the floor. Any concerns that I had about loss of strength in the plane due to the removal of the mid-side stringer are pretty much gone. The new stringer gives a lot of strength, although it is slightly lower gauge than the one that was removed, and the case is made of metal that is thicker than the longerons. So, there should be some strength coming from that, too.
A word to the wise, though. If an RV-10 is your first build, the BRS instructions are not at the same level as Van's instructions. This reminds me a lot of what I've been hearing from Dave about his RV-3 build. There are some basic ideas of what to do, but you are kind of on your own. Drilling your own holes for rivets, modifying parts on the fly, etc etc etc. This is NOT a simple plug and play drop-in modification to the RV-10 and I'm glad I'm doing it after 500 hours of building. At least I'm starting to get a clue for how to build without proper instructions.