Feb 09, 2022     14-07 - Wing Rib Installation - (17.7 hours)       Category: 14 Wing Ribs

Assemble
01/13/2022 – 1.1 hours
01/18/2022 – 1.7 hours
01/22/2022 – 1.5 hours
01/30/2022 – 2.8 hours
02/01/2022 – 2.1 hours
02/02/2022 – 0.7 hours
02/04/2022 – 1.3 hours
02/06/2022 – 2.5 hours
02/07/2022 – 1.6 hours
02/08/2022 – 2.4 hours

The time to mate the ribs to the forward spar has arrived! I sorted and ordered the ribs early in the wing build, and was careful to keep the ribs in order while preparing them for assembly. Working on the ribs in order helped to ensure I clecod the ribs in the correct locations on the wing spar. Four of the outboard ribs (R/L 10-13) are attached at spots where there are 2 rows of holes in the spar. The outboard holes mark the correct location for the ribs, and the inboard holes will be used later for the nose ribs. There are also two sets of holes at rib R9/L9, but that location also includes bolt holes for the main rib, which helps locate the rib in the correct spot.

The wing kit is shipped with a bag of various AN3 bolts, self-locking nuts, and washers to attach the wing ribs to the forward spar. I sorted the hardware by rib according to the plans, and then inserted the bolts according to the specified orientation. AN3 bolts with the self-locking nuts get torqued to 28 in-lbs plus a drag factor. Drag is typically 1/3 to 1/2 of the final torque, which I confirmed with a torsion-bar style torque wrench. My process to find the drag and final torque is to get the nut completely on the bolt, use the torsion-bar wrench to measure the drag value, add the drag to the final torque, set the final torque in the click-style torque wrench, and torque the nut to the final value.

The ribs are riveted to the forward spar as well as bolted. My best approach to set the rivets was with the rivet gun and bucking bar. I started with a double-offset rivet set to get clearance for the gun from the ribs. I suspended the spar forward side down (ribs sticking up) with support in the middle to keep the spar from bowing, and then set the rivets with the manufactured head on the rib and the shop head (by holding the bucking bar underneath the downward-facing spar) on the forward face of the spar. I had reasonable success with the double-offset rivet set, but I read another builder's log where they changed to a very long straight rivet set. The double-offset rivet set takes a lot of gun pressure to overcome the offset, and it spins around if you try to buck the rivet yourself with just one hand on the gun. I bought a 7 1/2" straight cupped set, and immediately saw improvements in the riveting. The long rivet set is easy to hold square to the rivet (no smiles or cuts in the material), uses less pressure at the gun (easier to control), and takes fewer hits to completely set the rivet (fewer chances for things to go wrong). It also let me go much faster with a superior quality rivet job.

The four inboard ribs were attached individually working toward the final inboard rib to provide good access to both the rivets and the bolts. I attached these ribs by setting the rivets on the spar web first, followed by the two (top and bottom) flush rivets on the spar flange, and then inserting and torquing the bolts. It is important to note that most of the bolts on these inboard ribs are inserted opposite to the other bolts. There is a note in the plans to wait until the rivets are set before final-torquing the bolts on the 4 inboard ribs because the bolt would have to be pushed out of the way to set the rivets. It turns out the bolts that are inserted with the nuts on the rib flanges (inserted through the front of the spar) are long-enough to get in the way of the rivet squeezer used to set the flush rivets at the top and bottom of the spar. The bolts can be installed last to ensure no access issues for the squeezer.

My approach to the left wing was a little different than the right. I started by clecoing the outboard-most rib with inboard-facing flanges (L-13), and then set those rivets. The nice thing about this method is there are no other ribs behind the gun, which provides ideal access to the rivets. I then cleco'd and riveted the next outboard-most rib with inboard-facing flanges and continued to work inboard until they were all in place. That left only a couple of spaces for outboard-facing ribs, which went in without issues. This method worked well for me, but you have to make sure you know exactly where each fib goes or you could end up putting a rib in the wrong spot!

The final thing to note is the orientation of the rivets. If Van's doesn't specify an orientation, then it is builder's choice. Generally, the best practice from what I've read is that the manufactured head of the rivet should go on the thinnest part. In this case the ribs are much thinner than the spar, so I put the manufactured head on the rib with the shop head on the forward face of the spar. That works well until you get to the most inboard rib with the aileron torque tube support bracket assembly. The plans specify attaching the bracket to the rib before the rib is riveted to the spar. That is what I did, and it makes sense to attach the bracket while there is complete access to the rib. The “problem” is there is no way to get a rivet gun between the bracket and the spar to put the manufactured head on the rivet. Some builders delay attaching the bracket to the rib to avoid the issue. Others, myself included, simply flip the spar over and set the manufactured head on the spar for this rib. There is plenty of room for the bucking bar between the rib and the bracket, and the “reversed” rivets on the inboard rib turned out very well.
[Click-style Torque Wrench, Torsion-style Torque Wrench, 3x Rivet Gun, Double-offset 1/8” Cupped Rivet Set, 7 1/2" Straight 1/8” Cupped Rivet Set, Tungsten Bucking Bar, Pneumatic Squeezer with Flush Rivet Set]

  Jan 12, 2022     14-06 - Flap Hinge and Torque Tube Bracket Assembly - (7.4 hours)       Category: 14 Wing Ribs

Prime
1/8/2022 – 2.5 hours
After a week of very cold and wet weather, I finally got a sunny day that is warm enough (50 degrees minimum) for priming. It was a breezy day, but I managed to find a somewhat sheltered area outside, and timed my priming passes between the gusts. It wasn't the most efficient session since a lot of primer disappeared into the breeze, but the results were pretty good. I put final coats on the ribs, and initial and final coats on the aileron torque tube bracket parts. I've noticed that the spray quality of the rattle cans is not as good as it once was. Nearly 1/3 to 1/2 of the cans don't spray very well. Hopefully that is a temporary manufacturing issue that gets sorted soon!
[Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)]

Assemble
1/9/2022 – 1.1 hours
1/10/2022 – 1.1 hours
1/11/2022 – 1.7 hours
1/12/2022 – 1.0 hours
Three ribs in each wing have special functions, which requires additional preparation. The inboard ribs (R1 & L1) support the aileron torque tube support bracket assemblies, and two other ribs in each wing (R3/L3 & R8/L 8) support the flap hinge assemblies. I started by riveting the parts for the aileron torque tube support brackets together. I decided to put the manufactured heads of the rivets on the inside (aft) face of the assembly to provide more clearance to rivet the assemblies to the rib webs. The pneumatic squeezer mounted in a bench vise did a nice job with all of the rivets. The pneumatic squeezer did not have good access to rivet the assemblies to the rib, so I switched to the rivet gun with a double offset rivet set. A very long straight set would also work to provide the clearance required for the rivet gun.

The flap hinges get sandwiched between the aft end of the wing ribs and a small flap hinge rib. I set the manufactured head of the rivet on the smaller flap hinge rib. The pneumatic squeezer had good access to most of the rivet locations and marginal access to a couple spots in the center of the assembly. Starting with the rivets along the top and bottom edges, and then working in from there helped to keep the clecos out of the way and provided good results. I initially wanted to work from the center out, but the clecos made that approach impractical with the squeezer.
[Pneumatic Squeezer with 2 1/2" Longeron Yoke, 1/8” Cupped Squeezer Set, 3X Rivet Gun, Double Offset 1/8” Cupped Rivet Set, Tungsten Bucking Bar]

  Dec 30, 2021     14-05 - Right Wing Rib Systems Holes - (6.2 hours) Category: 14 Wing Ribs

Right Wing Systems
- Wingtip Nav/Strobe Lights
- Landing/Taxi Light
- Roll Servo
- Aileron Trim
- Temperature Sensor

Rib R1
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R2
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R3
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R4
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R5
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R6
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R7
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R8
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:

Rib R9
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00013

Rib R10
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib R11
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib R12
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib R13
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib R14
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut)
12/24/2021 – 2.0 hours
12/26/2021 – 0.7 hours
This step is basically identical to the previous one – just for the right wing instead of the left. The right wing is also a bit simpler than the left since I don't plan to run pitot or AoA lines through the right wing, and the plans show that all of the right wing systems holes are the same size. Like the left wing, I used the ribs as drill templates for the upper systems holes by clecoing the aft tooling holes together, and inserting a #11 drill bit in the forward lower systems holes to align the ribs. I used the #52 bit for a pilot hole, and gradually upsized all of the holes to 1/4" pilot holes to guide the step drill. I then switched to the step drill to upsize each of the holes to 1/2".
[Drill bits (#52, #30, #21, #11, #10, 1/4"), Step Drill, Clamps, Rulers, Calipers, Hole and Edge Deburring Tools]

Prime
12/26/2021 – 2.2 hours
12/30/2021 – 1.3 hours
Priming followed my now-standard process of scuffing, cleaning, and degreasing each part before spraying the primer on. I was fortunate to have a very warm late-December week to do all of the cleaning and priming outside. The primer didn't go on as evenly as I had hoped, so I'll look for another decent day to apply a light second coat.
[Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)]

  Dec 30, 2021     14-04 - Left Wing Rib Systems Holes - (9.2 hours)       Category: 14 Wing Ribs

The ribs need several holes to route various systems wiring and plumbing. I have not committed to my avionics suite, yet, so I wanted to maintain as much flexibility as possible, allow for future additions / upgrades, and minimize the number of “extra” holes. I also wanted to complete the majority of the holes before priming and installing the ribs on the main spar. I started by listing potential systems for each wing, and then reviewed the initial systems installation - Section 19 of the plans.

I spent some time thinking through the routing of the pitot and AoA lines through the 8 inboard ribs. The upper aft systems hole is intended for the pitot line, and the lower aft systems hole is available for the AoA line through ribs L5 – L8. That is a good solution to get the pitot and AoA lines to the wing-mounted ADAHRS location between ribs L4 and L5, but it doesn't easily allow the static line to come into that area through ribs L1 – L4 or to allow the AoA line out to a panel-mounted ADAHRS location through ribs L1-L4. It also doesn't provide an easy way to run future wires/plumbing through the wing.

I contacted Van's about adding 2 dedicated pitot and AoA holes through ribs L1 – L8, and they indicated that wasn't a problem as long as I didn't start punching holes through load-bearing parts like the wing spars or carry-through spars in the fuselage. I decided to mirror the lower-forward hole for one line near the top of the wing, and then used that hole to locate the 2nd hole at the same level near the top of the wing just aft of the forward lightening hole. That left the upper aft hole available for future upgrades and additions (similar to the right wing), and kept the Pitot and AoA lines near the top surface of the wing to minimize the chance of moisture working into the lines.

Potential Left Wing Systems
- Wingtip Nav/Strobe Lights
- Landing/Taxi Light
- Stall Warning
- ADAHRS / Magnetometer
- Heated Pitot with AoA
- Temperature Sensor

Rib L1
- LWR FWD: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011 / WH-00012
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT:
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L2
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 3/8” (SB 375-4); WH-00012
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L3
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 3/8” (SB 375-4); WH-00012
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L4
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 3/8” (SB 375-4); WH-00012
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L5
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 7/16” (SB 437-4); Spare
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L6
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 7/16” (SB 437-4); Spare
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L7
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 7/16” (SB 437-4); Spare
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L8
- LWR FWD: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 7/16” (SB 437-4); Spare
- Pitot/AoA: 3/8” (SB 375-4) x2

Rib L9
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib L10
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib L11
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib L12
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib L13
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); WH-00011

Rib L14
- LWR FWD:
- UPR AFT: 1/2” (SB 500-6); Spare
- LWR AFT: 3/8” (SB 375-4) WH-00011

Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut)
12/23/2021 – 1.8 hours
12/24/2021 – 2.0 hours
12/26/2021 – 0.8 hours
The first step in the plans is to drill #19 Ground Lug Holes in the W-1010-L & -R Inboard Wing Ribs. The ground lug holes are 1/2" from the bottom of the rib and 1 1/2" from the leading edge of the rib. I located the spot for the ground lug holes and discovered there were already holes slightly larger than #19 there, so no need for any additional drilling there.

The next task is to locate and drill the upper aft systems holes. The upper aft holes are 6 3/8” from the leading edge of the rib and 4 1/4" above the lower aft systems holes. I spent some time measuring the location on one of the W-1011 ribs, and made several templates from spare cardboard. The cardboard templates did not work well, so I decided to carefully measure the location on one W-1011-L and one W-1011-R rib, and then use those ribs as templates for the rest of the ribs. Unfortunately, I did not measure as well as I thought, and I ended up with very small pilot holes in all the ribs in the wrong spot.

As I pondered the situation with the mis-placed #52 pilot holes, I noticed that the two inboard W-1010-R & L ribs had holes in the correct location for the upper aft systems holes. I also noticed that all of the ribs had tooling holes at the aft end that aligned, and would allow me to use the inboard ribs as templates to locate pilot holes in the correct location on W-1011-L & R ribs. I then used the W-1011-L & R ribs as templates for the rest of the ribs. I found that clecoing the aft tooling holes together, and inserting a #11 drill bit in the forward lower systems holes aligned the ribs very well to mark and drill the next pilot hole.

After all of the pilot holes were drilled, including pilots for the added AoA and Pitot lines through ribs L1 – L8, it was time to consult the plans to upsize the holes to the proper diameter for the specified snap bushings. I incrementally upsized each hole to 1/4", and then used my step drill to finish each hole.
[Drill bits (#52, #30, #21, #11, #10, 1/4"), Step Drill, Clamps, Rulers, Calipers, Hole and Edge Deburring Tools]

Prime
12/28/2021 – 1.4 hours
12/29/2021 – 1.2 hours
12/30/2021 – 2.0 hours
The next page in the plans has a place-holder for priming the parts for this step, so I decided to knock that task out while I had nice weather to clean and prime outside. The 14 ribs for the left wing (total 28 ribs for both) take awhile to work through, which has been the common theme throughout this phase of the build. I need to go back and apply a light second coat to each of the ribs (left and right) to get the even coverage that I'm looking for. Unfortunately, the weather has taken a turn for the worse, so it might be a few days before I can get back outside. I can clean the aileron torque tube bracket parts in-doors while I wait for better conditions outside.
[Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)

  Dec 12, 2021     14-03 - Flap Hinge Brackets - (12.6 hours)       Category: 14 Wing Ribs

Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut)
12/7/2021 – 1.2 hours
12/8/2021 – 1.6 hours
12/10/2021 – 4.5 hours
12/11/2021 – 1.7 hours
12/12/2021 – 2.1 hours
This step starts with straightening (as needed) the four flap hinge brackets. The brackets are made from 3/16” thick aluminum, which doesn't sound like a lot but is actually pretty thick – especially when you're trying to straighten it. Fortunately, they only needed some small adjustments. The straightened hinge brackets, hinge ribs, and #3 and #8 inboard ribs were cleco'd together and the 16 #30 holes match drilled.

I turned my attention next to the left and right outboard wing ribs. The plans specify removing the aft flange (but not the aft flange radius). I marked the cut line on the flange and used the Dremel with a metal cutting wheel for the rough cut. I then filed the cut area level and finished it with the Scotch Brite wheels and hand pads.

The final task for this step was to cleco the ribs to the wing spars and match drill the upper and lower attach points on the ribs that will receive bolts. It was a lot of fun to tack the wing structure together and finally get a sense of what the wings will eventually look like. The match drilling went well using the holes in the spar as a guide, followed by final drilling all the remaining rib holes common to the spar flanges and web.
[Hole and Edge Deburring Tools, #30 drill, #12 Drill, Dremel with Metal Cutting Disk, Files, 6” Scotch Brite Cut and Polish Wheel, 1” Scotch Brite Cut and Polish Wheel, Electric Drill]

Prime
12/12/2021 – 1.5 hours
I planned to finish this step by priming the four flap hinge brackets and hing bracket ribs. It is important at this point to keep all of the parts organized so they can be installed in the same spot where they were match/final drilled. To help with the organization, I plan to prime relatively small batches of parts (8 in this case) so I can label them properly for assembly later. Unfortunately, this was one of the worst primer jobs I've done. I think a combination of cool temperatures and being out of practice were the culprits. I'll sand down the bad primer areas and try again…
[Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)]

  Dec 05, 2021     14-02 - Wing Ribs Initial Preparation - (32.2 hours)       Category: 14 Wing Ribs

Initial Prep (Debur, Trim, Drill, and Cut)
11/17/2021 – 2.7 hours
11/18/2021 – 1.1 hours
11/19/2021 – 2.4 hours
11/20/2021 – 2.4 hours
11/21/2021 – 0.8 hours
11/22/2021 – 3.8 hours
11/23/2021 – 1.0 hours
11/24/2021 – 3.7 hours
11/28/2021 – 3.5 hours
12/1/2021 – 2.2 hours
12/2/2021 – 1.9 hours
12/3/2021 – 2.3 hours
I started this step by separating the flap hinge ribs and parts for the torque tube support assembly. The band saw made very quick work of separating the parts, and I filed the cut areas smooth to finish the parts. I also took the opportunity to debur the edges on the parts (holes will come later).

My attention then turned to the ribs. At first glance, the pile of ribs on the workbench is daunting. There are 28 total ribs (14 for each wing) to debur, drill, dimple, flute, and prime. There are three different types of ribs, left and right versions of each type, and the direction of the rib flanges change as you work down the wing – some face left and some face right. Finally, the bottom of the ribs has a separate single-hole flange at the aft end. That was a critical clue for me to ensure I had the ribs ordered and oriented properly. I used the final two drawings in this section of the plans to separate the ribs for each wing and to order them in the same way they'll be installed.

Proper preparation of the rib flanges is important to a quality job on the wings, and I felt it was worth a modest time investment to make them as good as I could. Deburring the edges of the ribs is pretty standard at this point. I'm not a huge fan of the large Scotch Brite wheel for parts that are relatively thin (like the ribs), so I decided to use Dremel sanding wheels and maroon Scotch Brite flap wheels in an electric drill for most of the deburring tasks. After deburring the edges, I checked and adjusted the flange angles to make them 9- degrees to the rib webs. Most adjustments for me were on the forward flange. There were also a few flange tabs that didn't quite get formed properly at the factory, so made some minor tweaks to straighten them up as well.

I decided to save the fluting step for later – after all of the final drilling and dimpling is done. I didn't need to final drill any of the #40 holes in the rib flanges since they were already final sized. I checked them all with a drill bit to make sure. I finished the flanges through this stage by deburring all of the holes. I also took this opportunity to cleco the torque tube bracket assemblies together to final drill and debur the common #30 holes.
[Band Saw, Dremel, Files, Hole and Edge Deburring Tools]

Final Prep (Dimple, Countersink, and Shape)
12/5/2021 – 4.4 hours
The plans call for only the holes on the lower rib flanges to be dimpled at this time. Logically the top will have to be dimpled, too; and later in the plans they are – but after the ribs are attached to the spar and bottom skin. I'm not sure why both top and bottom aren't dimpled right away, but I stuck to the plans and just did the bottom flanges as specified. There are also a couple of holes in the bottom of each aileron torque tube bracket to dimple. After I finished dimpling, I worked on filing a radius on the upper and lower edges of both torque tube support brackets. I used the large Scotch Brite wheel for this task, and I feel like the radius task went well. I'm not happy with how the brackets nest inside the ribs, though. The issue is the brackets are just a bit longer than the rib web, which makes for a very tight fit and will make riveting very difficult. I'll have to look at this some more to see if I can / should improve the fit. I finished this session by fluting the flanges of all the ribs. I didn't need to do any fluting on the aft flanges, but almost all of the forward flanges needed some work.
[Pneumatic Squeezer with #40 Reduced Diameter Dimple Die, Bench Grinder with 6” Scotch Brite Wheel, Fluting Pliers, Marble Flat Surface]

  Nov 16, 2021     14-01 - Wing Ribs Preparation (Plans) - (1.0 hour) Category: 14 Wing Ribs

The focus of this section is the preparation of a lot of the internal structure parts for the wings – specifically the ribs. As usual, I took some time to review and understand the plans including service bulletins and/or change notices (I didn't find any in this case). The plans for this section contain primarily part preparation steps that have been used in previous build steps. One item that did concern me was the note that the hardware (bolts, washers, nuts) to attach the ribs to the spar are included as part of the main spar assembly. I wondered about that during the spar preparation step as well since some of the drawings showed bolts where I had empty holes. In my case, the hardware was packed in a separate bag in the wing kit. There are 28 ribs to prepare as well as some additional parts like flap hinges and torque tube brackets, so I expect this step will take a long time with very little visible progress until the very end.