Was finishing up sticking tabs to the fuselage when I needed a bunch added to the firewall structure. So, removed the rotisserie and placed the fuselage on the landing gear (as a plus, it looks more like progress that way too). After finishing welding the added tabs to the firewall area, figured I could re-install the rudder pedals and cables and get in to ensure I get the heel brake levers "clocked" correctly on their shafts before drilling for AN-3 bolts. Since I had already welded the shafts to the torque arm that connects to the master cylinders, this meant I would have to drill the aluminum pedals to the chro-moly steel shafts to complete this. Given their location, doing it in place accurately was going to be a problem. Left them to sit a few weeks while monkeying with other bits, hoping for inspiration to strike in the form of a clever solution to drilling these. Best suggestion I received was a simple and elegant solution IF I hadn't already welded the arms to the shafts: Simply drill the pedals to the shafts in the drill press first, THEN install and clock everything, and only then tack the arms to the shafts in place. Brilliant! Except this would now involve a lot of backing up... cutting the arms off the shafts, fabbing new arms or cleaning up the cut off ones, putting the fuse back in the rotisserie etc, etc. I'm slow enough as it is and getting older by the minute. Who's got time for that? Finally admitted to myself building a drill jig wouldn't be that much trouble and would get me the accurately-located hole(s) I was looking for. Worked like a champ! Pedals clocked just slightly forward allows simultaneous full rudder deflection and still get my size 12 planted on the pedal face.
The other rude surprise that was also some time in the making involved the brake calipers, or more correctly their torque plates. Completed the landing gear construction last year to the letter of Drawing 17 unfortunately. Found an error in the plans I was unaware of until this week. Possibly, I missed my distance-learning homework assignment and others already knew about this and have included it in the known-about list of problems with the plans,,, I don't recall having seen anything about it. Goes like this: Big note at the bottom of Dwg. 17 states "Rotate brake mounting flange 7 degrees to allow clearance when aircraft is sitting on tailwheel". It also shows a caliper located aft of the strut angled up from the horizontal by about 7 degrees. I am here to tell you that won't work. A horizontal caliper or even slightly angled down one will. The drawing even shows the interference I discovered, the top corner of the caliper interferes with the aft gear leg strut. Since I wasn't going to cut the mounting flange off the axle or re-drill it in place (it's 1/8" steel), my solution was to re-locate the calipers to the forward side of the axles. This is exactly where my Cessna 180 and my neighbors Cessna 140 calipers are located. Probably ok.
Takeaway lesson: Build it to fit regardless what the plans have to say about something. (Trust but Verify)
A follow-up to the caliper-gear leg interference issue: I saw a photo somewhere on the interwebs of a (Hatz?) caliper bolted to the brake torque flange with spacer bushings about 1/2" long. News flash! This would solve the interference problem and shorten the length of axle on the outboard side of the wheels. A similar length 1-1/2" ID bushing slipped over the axle tube inboard of the wheel would allow the inboard wheel bearings to ride against that bushing instead of the telescoped tube the axles are welded into. Bottom line: The bushings move the whole mess, brake calipers, wheel bearings etc. outboard about 1/2" providing clearance with the aft gear leg and less excess axle stub on the outboard side of the wheels.