Began construction of the tail flippers by bending the trailing edges of elevators and rudder using a Tony Bingelis-designed jig. It looks like a badly-shaped toilet seat. Fabbed from the underside of a junked tabletop, it's about an inch thick Masonite that is cut into various radius' around the perimeter and a hole cut in the center to allow it to be clamped in a vise. The perimeter was routed with a 3/8" cove bit to accept the trailing edge 3/8" tubing and later re-routed to 1/2" for the vert fin leading edge. The jig allows one to choose an area of particular radius to bend the various shapes required. Drew up full size templates to lay the bent bits on to contemplate if further bending is necessary on a given part. Strap hinges fabbed up by cutting tube sections and plate on the bandsaw, heating, forming and rosette welding. Ribs for the surfaces were sheared from flat stock, bent using a benchtop brake, forming channel lengths and tapered ribs for some components. Horizontal stab leading edges are 3/4"X 0.035 4130 steel. Packed tubing with pool filter sand and plugged prior to bending cold. Fabbed bending block from dimensional lumber screwed to the benchtop. Bending block radius is slightly tighter than required to allow for spring back. You need some leverage to do this, so left the tubing long and slipped a length of 1" steel conduit over the yanking-on end of the tube and slid it as close to the bending block as I could to isolate the bend to the block area. Steel bits for bellcranks and control arms were cut on a metal cutting bandsaw. A smart guy would have downloaded the available CAD files off the interwebs and had these parts water-jetted out. Sadly, I'm not that guy. Mongo just simple pawn in game of life. Which, is how I broke my vise, hammering the bends into some of these bits. (note the "toilet seat" bender now clamped to the bench top instead of in the vise for the vert fin bending) A particular joint exists on all the control surfaces and the vertical fin, it is where the 3/4" tube meets the 3/8" or 1/2" tube of the leading or trailing edges and falls on the hinge line. Heat forming the 3/4" tube at those joints required a notch on the hinge-line side of the tube to prevent squeezing that side of the tube toward the hinge line creating an interference. The notch allowed the 3/4" tube to form around the smaller tube but not bulge toward the hinge line. Fabbed tabs to attach tail flying wires (there's four wires) a pair on either side of the vertical fin and a pair each on the top side and bottom of the horizontal stab. Nothing in the plans referencing these at all, but are required. Referenced again Acrosport, Skybolt, Starduster and Cub drawings, settled on 0.090" thickness. Drew up dimensional diagram to determine bend angles required since all three pairs are different; Labeled : Larry, Moe and Curly. Probably ok.