Apr 04, 2024     Polished the stabilator - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I got bumped from working opening day at Target Field so I figured might as well polish the stabilator before resuming fitting of the empennage fairing, and listen to the game (Guardians won. Yes!)?

For this I started with NuVite F7 Grade polish with a compound polisher and bonnet (of course). Then I used F7 with a cyclo tool with a wool (Fleece) towel to remove swirl marks. Then mineral spirits to clean off all polish. At this point I had the choice of using Grade C with the compound and then fleece but given that the stabilator has 0 air time, I went directly to the Grade S (very fine) polish with the cyclo machine and a the fleece blanket. After a final buffing with a clean piece of fleece, I then sprinkle on the corn starch and rub it down with a microfiber towel to remove any leftover polish. Then I use an air hose to remove any remaining corn starch (mostly in the holes of the pulled rivets). I don't use mineral spirits on the last step to clean because I want the chemical coating of the polish to remain on the stabilator.

Then I flipped it over and did the top side.

The only bummer today was I hit the wing stand and the wing shifted foward and hit the back of my lawn bench, putting a really big dent in the wing. Fortunately, it's the underside of the wing.

  Apr 02, 2024     Trimmed stabilator skin - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

There was a time, frankly, when I would've gotten to a point I got to today where I'd sacrifice quality for speed. It came after I finished trimming the top of the stabilator skin where it was contacting the empennage fairing. I had marked the bottom and the easy thing, it seemed at the time, would be to just work from underneath to trim away the bottom part. But would working upside down REALLY result in a quality trim? No, of course it wouldn't. So I took the stabilator off.

You did what, now? Sure, it's a pain in the neck to get it back on by myself and all but of course it would be easier to work with it sitting on the bench. And it was. I used a Dremel and attachment that, I saw when I finished, has basically been destroyed by cutting aluminum. But it did the job accurately.

Taking the stabilator off also gives me the opportunity to take the VS and rudder back off (you're going to do WHAT, now?) and polish them up with the G9 I got from NuVite. I want to get the milling finish off the VS and there's a little bit of skin to file away on the bottom that is just about contacting the tail cone. Then I can put them back on for the last time.

Of course, when the polished-up stabilator goes back on, I still will have to fit the fairing to make sure there's no interference and the attach holes need to be drilled and nutplates installed.

  Apr 01, 2024     Stabilator - Fairing interference - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Surprisingly, I was able to get the stabilator back on the tailcone without scratching anything. Then I reinstalled the bottom and top fairng. There's a lot of interference. I readjusted the fairing slightly left but it still rubs in the aft part of the fairing and very little of it has the required 1/8" clearance. I filed the very aft part for now because even if Van's support responds to pull the fairing forward (abandoning the two holes I driled) getting an 1/8" clearance back there is going to be diffiicult.

But it seems to me just filing the skin carefully would accomplish what I need to accomplish.

We'll see what Tony at Van's says.

  Mar 31, 2024     Drilling emp fairing to tailcone - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

I don't really care for the Van's instructions on drilling through the opaque fairing. They have you drill a #40 hole, tape a powerful magnet in the hole, put the fairing back on, put another powerful magnet over a washer and then let the magnet seek the other one. OK, I guess. It worked OK on the spinner, but why? There's a reference line on the tape, you know the hole has to be about 1/4" aft of that line, so you can just transfer that line onto the fairing and drill.

I didn't do that because somewhere in my youth I was taught to follow directions. In this case, I wish I hadn't because the hole in the fairing was off. Not by much but somewhere in my youth I became kind of OCD. In the end, it probably won't matter because the hole is going to get enlarged to a #27 and, besides, there's going to be a nutplate here doing all the work.

The next hole they tell you to drill is the inboard hole on the bottom fairing - both of these on the left side. So this time I did what I just said I should have done. It still didn't come out exactly where I wanted -- a little too forward but a nutplate will fit in there.

Now, I have to get some help to wrestle the stabilator back on to check for clearances.

  Mar 29, 2024     Finished fairing assembly and checked rudder clearance       Category: Empennage

A fairly productive work session saw me fine tune the gap so that it's about .032 all the way around, countersink the tab attach holes on the bottom half and rivet on the tabs, countersink the screw in the top. I'm short of stainless steel #6 screws so I'll have to order more. I mounted the rudder (temporarily) and checked the clearance with the fairing: 3/16". Perfect. Minimum clearance is 1/8". Next step is to drill the fairing attach holes to the tailcone but I've got to figure out how to do that as they're #27 holes and I'm not sure how to cleco a #27 hole. I'll review the instructions. Then I have to get some help to - again: temporarily - mount the stabilator to check the clearance. Then, I guess I'll polish everything up and remount everything, and then take care of that radiator clearance service bulletin.

  Mar 28, 2024     Prepped emp fairing tabs - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Modified #27 drill bit to enlarge holes in upper fairing. Removed and added nutplate after priming each tab and then checked back to the lower fairing and screwed the top fairing on. Next step is to assure a proper gap between the parts before riveted tabs to the lower fairing.

  Mar 27, 2024     Drilled empennage fairings - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

Having wised up about the proper way to place the empennage fairings on the tailcone, I remade one of the marker tapes and refit the fairings and they were darned close. I sanded a few areas. It's pretty difficult to get the things to stay in place even with a couple of clamps but I did the best I could and I was satisifed with the fit after a little sanding. Then I placed the attachment clips to the bottom fairing, aligned them, bent some of them and drilled them to the bottom fairing, then fit the top back on, checked the fit, clamped a couple of the tabs and then drilled the middle hole to #40 in each tab. Next time out I'll move the tabs to the inside and prep them accordingly.

  Mar 21, 2024     Finished cutting emp fairings - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Cut out the bottom faring and sanded everything down to the scribe line. I then fit it onto the tailcone and it's in the ballpark. This is the "old style" fairing so there's no way for front and bottom to properly "nest". I'll have to do some sanding of some edges to get things to work right.

Update: I noticed something when reading Dave Gamble's excellent blog ( http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com/search/label/Page%2012-08 ) : the fairing goes on the outside of the tailcone, not tucked. Now the reason for the edge marking on the tape makes sense. I never thought that there'd be an overlap IN to the airstream but there you; I rechecked the plans and, sure enough, that's a dotted line signifying the aft edge of the tailcone skin, which means the part is hidden.

  Mar 16, 2024     Cut out the top emp fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I used a Dremel to cut out close to the scribe line and then sanded it with a block to get it right to the line. The instructions are a little cruddy for showing the EXACTLY location for a 3/4" step drill hole but I'll deal with that later. I can always put fiberglass back. Anyway, it came out perfect.

I'll start on the bottom next time I'm out there.

  Mar 15, 2024     More marking up the emp fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I heard from the legendary Tony Kirk at Van's and he suggested using a long file to remove some of the trailing edge on the right side of vertical stabilizer where t is coming into contact with the rudder at full deflection. So I marked off about .048, made a straight line and filed back to it. No more contacting the rudder. Tony is the best.

I remade the tape strips to mark the attach holes for the empennage fairng and then dug out the two fairings. One step calls for you to drill a 3/4 hole with a step drill, 1 1/2" from a reference line. But then I remembered - vaguely - some dispute about hole callout on this part. I check plans and, sure enough, the latest plans have it 1 1/8" from the line.

I checked back with Tony at support to be sure threre's no issue with having pre12-iiS tailfeathers with a 12iS fuselage where this part is concerned.

BTW there's a service bulletin out regarding the radiator and cowling. The fix kit shipped today.

  Mar 13, 2024     Finished VS and rudder fairings - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I mounted the vertical stabilizer again and then added the rudder wth the fairing clecoed on and then added the fairing for the VS. You're supposed to have the two clear by 1/8" but no more than 1/4" but with the way the two interact, it's hard to get 1/8" in one spot without 1/4" somewhere else. In the end I just pretty much sanded down to the trim lines and I'm calling it good.

I did notice however that the rudder is contacting the vertical stabilizer skin on the right side. Not on the left side. I sent a letter to Van's support asking if they want me to file down the vertical stabilizer skiin a little bit.

Then it's on to the tailcone fairing. You have to make four 7" strip of masking tape with marks for where the fairing attach holes are going to go. It matched the instruction drawings closely in relation to existing rivets, but not exactly. I don't think it's a problem. I've got the measurements exact.

  Mar 07, 2024     Polished VS and rudder - (4 hours)       Category: Empennage

It was nice to get back to polishing aircraft parts again and I sort of remember how to do it, although my polishing supplies are pretty low. I figured before mounting the various fairings and putting things on the tail cone, it would be a good idea to wash and polish things first. So I washed the VS and rudder last week and took it out to the the hangar today for polishing. I probably should've gone all the way down to a Grade F7 polish on the VS as there some spot on it but I just did a Grade C and then Grade S . I did go to Grade F7 on the rudder. Anyway, I'll do them all again while mounted before the airworthiness inspection, whenever that is. Maybe this year. Maybe not.

After polishing I went back to where I left off on the instructions and fitted, sanded, mounted and drilled the fairing on the vertical stabilizer. I marked a trim line as instructed but I was out of gas and called it a day before doing any trimming.

There's some before and after shots here

  Feb 26, 2024     Started on VS and rudder fairings - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

With temperatures in the 60s -- and snow due -- it seemed like a good time to dig out fairings and get them fitted. I must've done some prep work on the VS fairing years ago because they fit fine around the recess. I cut the aft end 1/8" off the scribe line as indicated in the instructions. The rudder fairing was a little rougher and the recess needed "squaring up", the edges needed cutting and sanding. But eventually I got the rudder fairing fitting quite nicely. Oh, I also sanded down the seam to make it flush with the rest of the fairing.

I think fitted and drilled the rudder fairing, removed it, and deburred and cleaned. I've taken both home to wash in preparation for polishing both before fairings are attached.

I also took so California Custom oxidizer and polish to that drip on the taiilcone and got most of the corrosion out. That, too, will be polished when it warms up to stay.

  Feb 22, 2024     Taking everything apart again - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

Now that I got the entire tail assembly put on, I took it off today. I have to work on all the fairings. I did notice a white streak down the side of the tailcone. I don't what it was. Perhaps from a roof leak? Anyway it looks like it might be corrosive so I'll use some of the California green anti corrosion stuff on it, then buff it out with NuVite when it warms up. I will also be washing and polishing all of the tail assembly before reinstalling.

  Feb 05, 2024     More stabilator connections       Category: Empennage

I safety wired the trim tab hinge pins and had to shoot some silicone on the hinges because they were creaking after spending the last five years just sitting around. Then added the pushrod assembly. I added a washer to the connection at the control horns on the trim tab because the called-out AN3-10 bolt seems long and I think the nut bottomed out. BTW, most of the elastic locking nuts in the original plans have been replaced with metal locking nuts in revisions so I'm doing that.

I connected the D-subs for the flap motor. I want to wrap those wires up tighter with something because they're going to run on the stabilator spar as it moves up and down.

Anyway, I've verified that everything fits and is in working order and now I'm going to take it all apart to work on the fairings. I think. The instructions are confusing here. They tell you to install the aft assembly and then go to Section 12. Section 12 tells you to remove everything. So, who knows how this is supposed to work.

But winter is supposed to return here later this week so not sure when I'll do all that.,

  Feb 03, 2024     Stabilator attached!!! - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

"You've got your friends and you've got your aviation friends," as former RVator Bernie Ockuly is fond of saying. No fewer than 5 RVators from around the Twin Cities responded to my "mayday" call this week as efforts to get the hinge bolt to engage with the nutplate on the right bearing of the fuselage on the RV-12iS. Yesterday I pulled it back, took off the counterbalance arm and tried to recreate the problem by trying to finger-tighten the bolt and I could feel it continually disengage from the threads. So I used a nutdriver with a socket to apply enough pressure to get the bolt to engage and then repeated it several times to be sure everything had been cleaned out and then tried to finger tighten again and it engaged fine.

Was that the problem? Or was that just fixing a problem that had been introduced when trying to fix the problem. There was no way to know without help. I'm convinced it's simply not possible to do this yourself, even though I'm aware of the stories hereabouts that it is. Let's just say, "not for me."

So the guys came over and supported the stabilator and it took a fair amount of effort to get things lined up. I used a screwdriver to slightly open the hinge brackets to allow them to slip over the bearing, then repeated on the other side as they supported things. Lining up still took a little bit of adjusting -- raising the aft end slightly, bringing the front end down etc, until I could pin things with the "drift pins" I'd made for attaching the wings on the RV-7A project almost 20 years ago; glad I saved them.

Once that was done I was able to finger tighten and then tighten the bolts somewhat because THEY ENGAGED THE THREADS!!!!

I didn't torque them down yet because I have a question to research: Is the torque value of an AN4 bolt into a nutplate the same as the torque value of an elastic locknut going onto an AN4 bolt? My suspicion is it's not although I can't yet confirm this.

Anyway, here's a shoutout to my aviation friends (Left to right)

Phil Martineau - Phil flies an RV12 out of St. Paul Downtown Airport and is currently building a Glastar. He's on the EAA Board of Directors and is the retired chairman of Pittsburgh Corning. He's a lot smarter than me. His EAA Builder's Log is good reading. He didn't arrive in time to see the Miracle in Bob's Hangar but he was giving me moral support and technical advice all week. He put his stabilator on by himself.
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&proj=7nwawiuuC

John Schmidt - Longtime member of my EAA Chapter in Lake Elmo although I think now he's moved down to AirLake Airport and is in Chapter 25. You know how there's always those 3 or 4 people in a chapter you can count on for Young Eagles days? That's John. He's a got a gorgeous Cub and an RV-6 project. John is also smarter than me.

Bill Swanson - I've only met Bill once, I think, back when I owned the 7A and we flew into Olivia with the Twin Cities RV Group for lunch. I believe he fiies out of Anoka-Blaine Airport (on the other side of the Twin Cities) and I think he's working on an RV-6 project. He appears to be smarter than me.

Pete Howell - Probably the smartest RVator I know and it goes without saying he's smarter than me. Pete, even if it means driving over from Anoka-Blaine has never failed to show up on those rare occasions when I put out a "mayday". Pete is an RV9A-flying legend and just about the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I also don't believe there's ever been a problem he hasn't been able to solve.

Jeff Schwalen - flies an RV-10 out of South St. Paul's Fleming Field (KSGS). His hangar is on the other side of the field from me and we hadn't met. So I got a new friend out of my three days of frustration with the horizontal stabilator. I can just tell by looking at him he's smarter than me.

Wonderful gentlemen one and all! I can't thank them enough.

  Jan 31, 2024     How to waste another afternoon - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Second verse. Same as the first. Thinking of just giving up and selling the project.

  Jan 30, 2024     How to waste an afternoon - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

One of the more frustrating days. I started to attach the stabilator to the fuselage. Two bolts. Simple, right? I've done it before and it wasn't bad. But, then again, I haven't done it since the SL-00068 "fix" for a problem that wasn't really a problem: the washers between the hinge brackets. They've been replaced by riveted metal spacers. I attached the counterbalance arm and inserted it into the fuselage, turned it 90 degrees and bolted it to the stabilator. All good so far. But I could not get the holes to line up with the bearings on the fuselage tail. Eventually I gave it a good shove and it lined up enough to stick a punch in place as a drift pin while I tightened one bolt. But the bolt on the other side wouldn't engage the nutplate. After several hours, I pulled everything off and disassembled everything then loaded up bolts with Boelube lubricant and ran them into the nutplates to get them to engage. Repeated a few times.

I'll take another run at it at some other time.

Meanwhile a shipment of fiberglass and peel ply (and some mixing cups) arrived from Aircraft Spruce.-

  Jan 10, 2024     Attached rudder - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

There are only two attach points for the rudder but because of the need to insert washers around the rod end bearings, it's a major pain in the neck. But they got inserted. The instructions I have call for the elastic locking 365 nuts. But the new instructions call for an -03 metal locking nut, which I used. My guess is this may have to come off at some point before I attach the cables so I haven't torqued things down. I'm sending out my torque wrenches for calibration.

  Mar 28, 2017     Completed the empennage subkit - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

I assembled all the components for the AST to trim servo but had to finagle a few things. The spacers I made for the big bolt on the unit were too small so I made that. And I'm going to have to switch to a longer bolt because the whole for the castle nut isn't appropriate.

A couple of the wire pins fell out so I carefully put them back in but I'm still not at all happy with the connectors used here and will be switching to DSUBs after it gets its airworthiness certificate.

Meanwhile, I drove down to SteinAir (they do the parts) for some extra pins and a connector.

I decided there's no real reason to disassemble all of this since I'm building an empty hangar. So at some point soon I'll go back over all the bolts and make sure they're torqued correctly.

Then I'll do some polishing!

Ordered an AN3--37 bolt from Aircraft Spruce.

  Mar 26, 2017     Assembled push rod for stabilator - (4 hours)       Category: Empennage

Not much narrative here. Rivet the parts, attach the hardware.

The Molex connector for the trim servo was a gigantic pain in the neck. Not sure what Van's was thinking when they chose such small connectors, which made crimping them like doing microsurgery. And it's very difficult to get them inserted properly in the housing without abusing the wire.

After that, I pulled all the parts together for the servo-to-trim connection.

(Update 6/14/20) - A Van's service bulletin called for builders to check to be sure this rod was straight. Apparently a trainer somewhere had a problem with delinking. The motor will have to be updated (about $90 or so)

  Mar 25, 2017     Fit control surfaces to tailcone - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

With the tailcone done, I fit the control surfaces to it and, as usual, was amazed by the precision of the Van's RV-12 kit.

I used the frame of the rudder as I've decided to reskin it. I didn't like how one hole came out. The rudder skin will ship with the wing kit and there's a 12-week backlog in that. It's due to arrive on May 22.

But everything fit fine, giving me more time to think about how I want to store these items on the hangar and still have room for everything else.

After installing all of the components, I started work on the trim control wiring and unit.

Ordered BUSHING TFI-0304-04, an MS24665-151 cotter pin, and an AN3-36A bolt from Van's.

  Mar 24, 2017     Fit the vertical stabilizer to tailcone assembly - (.5 hour)       Category: Empennage

I attached the vertical stabilizer and, of course, every hole was lined up perfectly.

I'll attach the rudder skeleton but I can't do much more than that. I was unhappy with a buggered-up hole so drilled off the skin for replacement. The underlying frame is in fine shape (I'm going to fabricate a doubler for the bad hole) but I ordered the rudder skin to be shipped with the wing skin to save money on shipping and that doesn't ship for another two months.

I suppose that gives me time to polish the tailcone and feathers.

  Mar 21, 2017     Completed tailcone - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I finished riveting the top skin and everything fit beautifully. It's now begging to be polished.

  Mar 19, 2017     Began riveting top skin - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

After returning the skin to the top of the tailcone and clecoing it down. I fit the vertical stab attach rib and riveted it in place. I then riveted the forward center stringer, but left the forward 7" of holes open because I was unclear whether the earlier warning to leave holes 7" from the front applied or not. Easy enough to rivet them later.

Then I started riveted the top skin in place. I mostly finished the aft area before quitting for the afternoon.

I'm not unhappy with how the aft portion of the lap joint looks, but easily could have been much more aggressive in rolling the most aft foot and a half or so.

  Mar 18, 2017     Fit the top tailcone skin - (1.3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I prepped up the top tailcone skin -- deburring the edges and all the holes as well as the slot in the aft portion. Fortunately -- not to mention: curiously -- all the holes in this particular sheet accepted LP4-3 rivets, unlike other skins in my kit so I didn't have to drill them out to full size.

After fitting the top skin, I match drilled the two holes on the angle of the aft bulkhead -- 1210, I think is the number -- and drilled out the holes that were already in place using a reamer.

Then I shot primer on the rivet lines and let it sit. I have to go to the car show to look at replacements for the 15-year-old Subaru.

  Mar 17, 2017     Completed side skin riveting on tailcone - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

No problems encountered in completing the riveting of the side skins. Then I prepped the rib for the top skin, dimpling the nutplates holes and nutplates, and priming the piece.

  Mar 16, 2017     Completed right side of side skin riveting - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

Nothing much to report beyond the headline. Started in on the left side.

  Mar 15, 2017     More riveting of side skins - (.8 hour)       Category: Empennage

So, anyway, my brilliant idea to switch back to the lower sawhorses because the tailcone was turned and I'd be working on upper skins was misguided. My back is killing me and I'm tired of kneeling on the floor. Will switch back to the 40" sawhorses tonight.

  Mar 14, 2017     Riveted side skins - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

I fit the top side skins back on the frame and clecoed it (was rather disappointed in how the Cleaveland edge roller worked), then ran the string for the rudder cables and taped it back down.

I drilled the bushing brackets to the J-stringers, removed and deburred and then riveted them in place, then began riveting the side skins. This will take awhile; there are a LOT of rivets. I also need to be careful to only rivet, according to the instructions, holes in the 1279 (the top corner skins) that are common to the side skins. This would seem to preclude the rivets from the 1279 to the bulkheads, leaving only the bottom rivets on the 1279. Why that is, I don't really know. Another example of the step-by-step instructions not allowing you to see the "big picture" the way the ISO drawings on the 7A instructions did.

I also noted the instructions said to leave the holes within 7" of the edge open, which I can obviously see are for mating with the fuselage. But a little light went off because I vaguely remember taping off only the 7 most forward HOLES on the bottom of the fuselage.

Sure enough, checking the instructions again revealed those were to be 7" also, meaning three holes got riveted that shouldn't.

  Mar 13, 2017     Prepped top corner skins - (1.50 hours)       Category: Empennage

After clecoing in the tail cone side skins, I started prepping the top corner skins.That means drilling every hole out to a #30 with a reamer (I'm sorry, Van's, I've too much respect for aluminum to abuse it by trying to jam in LP-4 pop rivets into the holes you provide), then deburred every hole and then deburred the edges.

This is another area where I'm concerned for the quality of RV-12s. When Van's uses step-by-step instructions, sometimes it mentions deburring, sometimes it doesn't. Having built an RV-7A, I know that EVERYTHING needs to be deburred. But their instructions and picking and choosing when to mention deburring carries the implicit message to newbie builders that if deburring isn't mentioned, deburring isn't necessary.

This is simply wrong and I wonder how many RV-12s are flying with stress risers all over the place by builders who primed everything figuring that's needed for resale value (a myth) while ignoring the need to deburr.

On that score, I noticed that these two skins -- I think they're F-1279, but don't quote me -- were not included in the tailcone step #1 instructions to roll the edges of some of the skin pieces because of lap joints. Again, that implies these edges don't need to be rolled, and that's wrong, too. They do. There's a lap joint with the side skin.

  Mar 12, 2017     Installed some system runs - (2.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

With the time change, I decided to get up early and get to the hangar before the house woke up and get some work done.

I prepped the left side skin and clecoed it in place, then ran the wires for the trim and secured with tie wraps.

Then it was on to the static system. Installed the rivets for the static ports and drove out both mandrels, ran plastic line to a tee, and then installed the static line over the 1/8" clear plastic for the tee. I secured the right side tie wraps but left the left side loose per the instructions.

I ran the string for the control cables but the illustration on the instructions is really bad for routing so I have to double-check that before buttoning the tail cone up.

One note: I did NOT fillet the blue RTV (never use red RTV with aluminum, by the way) because I didn't have any and didn't feel like going to the hardware store. I'll do that tomorrow because today I ran out of time.

  Mar 11, 2017     Completed riveting of tailcone bottom - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I finished up all the bottom rivets on the tail cone then flipped it over (after lowering the height of the sawhorses) and began prepping the side pieces. I am drilling all holes out to .030 with a reamer because I dislike the abuse of aluminum required with Van's size hole. An AD-4 rivet will fit in the holes. An LP4 will not.

Then, of course, I deburr every hole and deburr and smooth the skin edge.

I clecoed the aft bulkhead in which required a little wrangling, through not much. and clecoed the right skin on, which, of course, fits like a glove.

Then I ran out of time to do the other side. Tomorrow.

  Mar 10, 2017     More riveting of bottom skins - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

There are a lot of rivets in this section. It took a long time to get the bulkheads riveted to the bottom skin, then I started working on the bottom side skirt attach rivets to the bottom skin . I got about halfway done with one side and ran out of time. That seems to be a thing with me.

  Mar 09, 2017     Riveted bottom skin halfs - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

The trick to getting the side "skirts" to fit is after hooking the stringers into the bulkhead cutout, cleco the bulkhead to the side skirt starting with the most bottom hole (the tailcone is flipped upside down so, really, it's the uppermost hole.

After I got them to fit, I took them apart and deburred every hole after using the reamer to make the holes the proper size.

Then I reassembled, clecoed, and riveted the left and and right bottom skins together and riveted the bulkheads to the bottom skin before running out of time to rivet the side "skirts."

Next time.

  Mar 02, 2017     Fit side skirts to tailcone - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

Couldn't get the side skirt (basically the bottom corner of the empennage to fit the most rear bulkhead. Gave up and will look at it when I get back from vacation.

  Feb 26, 2017     Started work on tailcone skin - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

Couldn't do a lot of work today because I needed to add different 2x4's to the sawhorses to get them up higher than 3 feet but I riveted on stiffeners to the bottom skin.

  Feb 25, 2017     Fit aft bulkhead to stabilator - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

I finished up the aft bulkhead by clamping the hinge plate and hinge to the bulkhead, drilling holes to full size, removing, deburring and clecoing back together, then riveting the pieces with AD4-6 rivets.

Then I fit the hinges to the brackets on the stabilator and fit washers to reduce lateral movement as much as possible . I went with one 410 and one 410-L washer on each bolt.

I then removed everything and Super Glue'd the washers to the brackets.

Now that the Cleveland edge rolling tool has arrived, I went back to the first steps in this chapter of the instructions and deburred the tailcone skins and bent (imperceptibly) the appropriate edges. We'll see how it comes out when the lap joints are riveted.

  Feb 24, 2017     Finished riveting aft bulkhead - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

Slow going this evening because I was checking and doublechecking EVERYTHING against the instructions -- size of rivets, correct nutplates and correct pop rivetrs (some weird stainless rivet is used on the nutplate).

The only departure from plans is the called out AD4-4 rivets for two locations (i think it was on the tie-down bracket) are too short so I switched to some larger ones I had from the RV-7A build and they were perfect. (Or maybe the original callout was 4-5. I forget. In any case, I went up one size).

I got a smiley on rivet but there was no way I was going to drill it out and really mess things up.

  Feb 23, 2017     Riveted aft bulkhead - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I'm not an engineer so it shouldn't surprise anyone that I have no clue at all about how much load is imposed on this part or that.

But I'm going to guess there must be a hell of a lot of it on the most aft bulkhead. You have to rivet in a doubler plate (didn't check but it's either .063 or .090, judging by experience) into the aft bulkhead on the RV-12. to which the tie-down bracket (mentioned in yesterday's log) is eventually riveted.

Look at how many rivets that takes

I sold my rivet gun when I finished the RV-7A. Heck, I wasn't going to need one anymore, so I'm using a TATCO hand squeezer to set all of these.

Edge forming tool arrived from Cleaveland Tools.

It's one of those times I hurt myself patting myself on the back for buying a longeron yoke way back when.

  Feb 22, 2017     Made tie-down bracket - (.5 hour)       Category: Empennage

I finally remembered to pick up a 1/4" drill bit from the hardware store so I could drill the tie-down bracket via the template.The hole is used as the inside radius of the bottom of the bracket. So whipped that up with some bandsaw and file action and it came out sweet. I'm so much more focused on quality building than I was with the 7A.

Let me explain that: I was focused on quality building on the 7A project, obviously, it was an extremely well-built machine. But this time I'm more of a perfectionist.

I mean, geez, it's just a tie-down bracket and as sweet as it looks, nobody will ever see it because it's hidden in the most aft part of the fuselage, out of site.

So why make it look like a piece of Swiss engineering

Because I'll know, that's why.

  Feb 20, 2017     Assembled bulkheads - (5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I'm waiting for a new edge-roller tool, so I skipped the first steps on the tail cone section and went right to assembly of bulkheads. Nothing special, though I did put a smiley in a rivet. I should've just left it. Drilling out an AD4 is difficult to get right and it's always a risk that you'll make it worse.

But the assembly went fine and then started separating and deburring the various small parts of the tailcone most aft bulkhead.

Filled out the order for the wings -- 12 week lead time, according to the Van's website -- and will have them put a new rudder skin in. I tested the old to make sure I can drill out all of the rivets to remove the skin and it should be fine.

I would likely not drill out the rib with the offending hole -- AD4's, you know -- but will probably hack off a section of the flange on the rib and rivet on a new plate with flange on the existing rib and then match drill the holes using the original, damaged rudder skin that Van's sent.

  Feb 19, 2017     Stabilator completed - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

All I had left to do was attach the control horns and the counterbalance arm and weights and it shouildn't have taken as long as it did.

But the #12 drill is a really snug fit for an AN3 bolt, the grip will fit by the shaft is very tight. Not a big deal on the control horns but the counterbalance arm needed a little bit of filing with the round file to get it the bolt in properly all the way to the seat of the head.

But it got done and now I'm ready to move on to the tail cone.

  Feb 18, 2017     Completed skinning the stabilator - (6 hours)       Category: Empennage

I finished the top and bottom skin riveting on the stabilator, Made the splice plate and drilled out to a #50 ( I couldn't figure out what the little holes were for and how important it was to use the called out #56, but then I realized it mustbe to secure the hinge pins with safety wire, so a #50 is just fine).

I added the right hinge and got about 10 rivets in before realizing the stabilator was upside down. Patiently drilled out the rivets, reoriented the unit and riveted both hinges, added the two outboard ribs on each end, riveted all the aft flange holes and then added the aft skin, drilled out , deburred and riveted.

A good day's work.

I have only one bad rivet and it's in spot that's obvious.The most forward hole on the outboard edge. The rivet was not fully in the rib flange when I squeezed so it's squeeze between the skin and rib.

I've elected-- so far-- to do nothing about it . Drilling it out is asking for trouble. I consider options over the next few years as people with knowledge stop by the hangar.

  Feb 17, 2017     Began riveting left skin on stabilator - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

Having shot some primer on the rivet lines a night before, I deburred ALL of the holes in the skin and then assembled the left skin on the spar structure with fine results. I shot the leading edge rivets on the underside.

  Feb 16, 2017     Completed right stabilator skin - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

More riveting completed the right side of the stabilator skin with the exception of the holes on the skin that need to be left open and all of the trailing edge holes on the aft flange.

Then I started on the left skin. Reamed all the holes out to the proper #30 instead of the incorrectly undersized holes as delivered, then deburred all holes.

One of these days I'm going to figure out how much of my life has been spent pulling blue plastic off aluminum.

  Feb 15, 2017     More riveting - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

I cannot prove there are more rivets on an RV-12 than on an RV-7A, although it sure seems that way, at least with the horizontal stabilator of the 12 vs. the horizontal stabilizer of the 7A. I finished up one side of one side of the thing tonight and started working on the bottom side.

Man,there are a lot of rivets!

  Feb 14, 2017     Reamed holes - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I've decided I'm just not going to accept the slightly undersized holes in the RV-12 kit. So I disassembled things and used #30 reamer to enlarge holes ever so slightly. There's nothing good that can come from jamming an LP-4 into an undersized hole and they ARE undersized as can easily be ascertained by attempting to put a rivet into the skin hole with no mating involved.

Of course this involves times, so I got virtually nothing done except for the leading edges on the top side of the right skin.

  Feb 12, 2017     Fit skin on stabilator - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

I only worked a short period in the hangar because I didn't feel well but I at least fit the right side of the stabilator skin. At first it didn't seem to fit well but I should've just trusted Van's expertise because as I clecoed, it fit fine.

I'm still going to ream the holes out to a true #30. A VAF emailer said the reason the rivets don't fit well is the punch Van's uses has gotten slightly warn over the years, so the hole are slightly undersized.

  Feb 11, 2017     Completed stabilator spar assembly - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

An all-day Saturday effort at the hangar yielded a ton of results as I finished up the spar assembly and it's just about ready for skinning.

Clips were separated and riveted, Ribs were prepped and deburred (a bunch need to be trimmed at the nose).

The bracket assembly was bolted in placde (the .023 wide spacers were just perfect).

And the hinge pins were cut and holes drilled and I'm now fitting them to HS skin.

After 7 hours, though, I was tired and starting to drag and if there's one thing I've learned is that when the brain starts slowing down (I worked right through lunch), it's time to stop.

As usual, there were several gasps during the session as I continue to marvel at the Van's tooling.

  Feb 10, 2017     Riveted control brackets - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Riveted on the control arm brackets on both spars. Everything is hand squeezed because I sold the rivet gun a couple of years ago when I finished the RV-7A. By the time you get to the 25th AD4 rivet, you're pretty much out of gas when it comes to hand strength.

Also clecoed the spar box back together and realized I failed to countersink two holes on the forward spar so did that.

I didn't rivet the CS-4 rivets because I wanted some time to think about what I'm doing to make sure I'm following the instructions correctly. This happens a lot.

I also added nutplates to hinge brackets and separated some other items from a long strip.

  Feb 09, 2017     Riveting platenuts - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Lots of hand riveting of nutplates and spacers. Nothing too serious.

  Feb 08, 2017     Spar box assembly - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Carolie flew out to Massahusetts for her mom's 90th birthday so I had a little extra time to spend in the hangar this evening.

With my questions about what can be riveted, I proceded with the spar box assembly, riveting (3/32 rivets anyway) the inboard ribs and spar caps etc. It all fit together so beautifully; it was another reminder of just how far Van's has come in matched hole tooling etc.

Then I clecoed in the front and rear spars for the stabilator (again, things fit like a glove), and added the weldments, enlarging the holes to the #12.

The control arm was fit to the brackets and drilled.

Disassembling to deburr .

  Feb 06, 2017     Stabilator spar box assembly - (.5 hour)       Category: Empennage

With all the parts -- so far -- primed, I started assembling the components of the spar box. The drawing was not as exact as I would have liked, so I stopped quickly because I wasn't exactly sure if the spar cap spacers on the inboard went in the holes just outboard of the inboard ribs. They do, VAF clarified.

I also wanted to check if it's OK to rivet everything. It is.

  Feb 05, 2017     Stabilator parts prep - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

The traditional "work off nervous Super Bowl energy at the hangar" session today. Countersunk the appropriate holes in the stabilator spar and doublers.Pretty much just cutting parts and then deburring. Countersunk where appropriate.

  Feb 04, 2017     Completed right anti servo tab assembly - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Not much to report. Pretty simple all around.

  Feb 03, 2017     Started on right trim assembly -stabilzator - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

With the left side completed, I started working on the right side. I still don't like this idea that the holes are already at proper size. There's too much pressure required to insert a rivet, so I'm drilling it out with a #30 drill.

Also not priming this part.They're easy and inexpensive to build, there's little liklihood that corrosion will be a problem, and even if it is,it's easy to just build a new part. That won't be the case on, say, the wings, but this seems like an area to save some weight.

  Feb 02, 2017     Completed left trim assembly - (2 hours) Category: Empennage

No issues worth reporting.Everything fit together just fine.

  Jan 27, 2017     Completed rudder - (4 hours)       Category: Empennage

Finished riveting the frame then added the skin and used the pneumatic riveter. Pretty slick. I buggered up one hole which I decided to abandon and fill with some filler.

(Update) I'll eventually rebuild the rudder because of that one bad rivet but I can do it later. It just doesn't meet my standards.

Ordered HS-1230 from Van's.

  Jan 26, 2017     Primed anad riveted rudder parts - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I primed a couple pieces then riveted the middle rib, then the rudder horn to a rib, and then that assembly to the spar. Then rivted other ribs on. Riveted on the hinge assembly.

  Jan 23, 2017     Began work on rudder - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

Separated the hinge pieces, Match drilled the spacers, fit the ribs, Made the lower rib by cutting some flange away. Final drilled everything

  Jan 22, 2017     Completed vertical stabilizer - (5 hours)       Category: Empennage

Match drilled all holes, then deburred all holes and riveted the skins. The new ATS pop riveter ($179) lasted for one row. Went to a cheap $29 Stanley pop riveter to complete the task.

  Jan 21, 2017     Completed VS spar/rib assembly - (4 hours)       Category: Empennage

Not much new. Finished riveting the vertical stabilizer spar and ribs and fit the skin. Had to radius the nose ribs a bit to get them to fit. Not priming the skin/ribs except where they hit metal.Building light is the key on this proj

  Jan 20, 2017     Riveted upper spar caps to rear VSspar - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

Beats watching the inauguration of a common hoodlum.

  Jan 17, 2017     Completed other half of VS spar doubler - (1 hour) Category: Empennage

Completed other half of VS spar doubler

  Jan 16, 2017     First parts for vertical stabilizer - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

Pretty simple stuff

  Jan 14, 2017     Kit inventory - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

It's too cold to do any building in Minnesota but with the RV-12 emp kit arrival, at least I got to finish up the inventory. I still have some tools to buy although, since I already built an RV-7A, I don't have the problem of a big initial cash outlay.

The only problem was damaged rudder skin, even though it was nested securely inside the horizontal stabilizer skin. Possibly damage at the factory or while crating. I've sent a message off to Van's.