May 02, 2024     Bonded foam block - (1.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

I've looked at a few projects and finished RV12s to get a better idea of what Van's has in mind with this process (in addition to reading the directions, of course) and the new epoxy pumps arrived from Aircraft Spruce this week, so I went ahead and bonded the foam blocks to the canopy frame with epoxy. I laid a couple of 2x4s against the to exert a slight pressure to be sure they bonded well. Not sure when I'll get back out there to start sanding them into shape.

  Apr 27, 2024     Cut foam blocks       Category: Canopy

The band saw was fine for cutting the foam blocks. A hacksaw blade also would have done the trick. I fit the block into appropriate space, and cut the 7/8" hole for access to the frame attach bolts and drew a line to mirror the contor of the forward fuselage skin. But I can't bond it yet because I don't have pumps for the West System epoxy ingredients (I must have thrown the old ones out), so I ordered new ones from Aircraft Spruce and threw in an order for those canopy block screws while I was at it.

There's a gap between the block and the skin and I've read ahead and found nothing about molding some clay and putting it in there but that seems like that would be appropriate, but I don't know. We'll see. I asked one of the Facebook groups for advice.

So now I'll wait for the AS order. Maybe it's time to finish polishing the VS and rudder and getting those put on.

  Apr 26, 2024     Prepped for canopy fairing work - (3 hours)       Category: Canopy

The screw on the right side is interfering with the guide block so I chamfered the outside bottom edge as instructed. But the struts aren't installed and there's really no way to do this right. So I think I'll wait until those are reinstalled. Meanwhile, I dug out the seal spacer and adjusted it so it lays pretty flat along the aft edge of the forward skin. Then I wrapped it in .05 width duct tape, and added enough to make the width about .075 and secured it in place. I have some concerns about the effect of duct tape on the nice panel blank but we'll just have to see.

I got some masking tape and paper and masked off the instrument panel and the interior against dripping epoxy.

I have concerns about the outside ends of the forward part of the canopy which sit below the front skin. That's quite a gap. I would think some modeling clay in there would make the fiberglass strips sit better. We'll see. I don't think that's in the instructions.

I added strips of duct tape along the edges of the forward skin as directed. I added 10 strips each on the first 30 inches along the upper fuselage skin, and I drew a 2 1/2" reference line from the canopy skirt along that edge.

I got the foam blocks out and marked how they are to be cut but decided not to do that today. Not exactly sure what the best way to cut should be.

  Apr 22, 2024     Canopy guide blocks installed - (1.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

Another small order from Van's came in so I attached those rears screws and nuts on the side of the canopy and cut off some threads. The one on the left may need more trimming. Then measured out the first hole for the canopy guide blocks and tapped it, then marked the second hole, drilled, and tapped that. Of course, I came up one AN5098R16 short.

  Apr 15, 2024     Removed struts - (.5 hour)       Category: Canopy

Phil Martineau stopped by to help me take the canopy off (and deliver some -06 metal locking nuts) but by then I realized it was possible to remove that screw that holds the front of the strut without taking the canopy all the way off. Here's the process.

1) Remove the connecting hardware for the strut attachment to the fuselage (aka, the connection at the rear of the strut). This is done with the canopy open.
2) Lower the canopy, placing pillows or blankets or something (I use old, cut -up, camper mattress foam) underneath both side of the canopy frame at the midpoint.
3) Detach the two bolts (one on each side) holding the canopy/frame to the fuselage.
4) GENTLY pull the canopy/frame forward as it ride on the foam (or blankets or pillows, until you can lift one side high enough to get a screwdriver on that screw, then remove the locking nut and assorted hardware and remove the strut. Repeat for the other side.
5) GENTLY work the canopy/frame back until the frame-to-fuselage hole (aka, the most forward hole), lines up and reinstall the bolt and hardware.

Simple, no?

The one thing I noticed putting those two bolts back in, however, is the bushing callout. Now, I don't know if the canopy frame came without a bushing in the holes or whether that's where I pressed those bushings in. Or is the drawing referring to a bushing used as a spacer. It was five years ago. I vaguely recall using a socket set to press a bushing in place but I don't know if it was on this part or not. I ordered a couple of bushings anyway and I'll wait until I get this mystery solved before continuing.

It would help to take a look at an RV-12.

  Apr 15, 2024     Completed SB-00088 - (3 hours)       Category: Service B's

I prepped up the replacement bracket, drilled out nutplates on the oil cooler, added the bracket, installed new nutplates and bolted the bracket on. Then cut the rubber grommets and put them in the outside holes, making the cut portion to the right and filling with RTV (although suspect the grommets turn when tightening), added the bushing and bolted the radiator to the new bracket on the oil cooler, bolted the top back on and reattached the hoses. All bolts and nuts torqued. To me, it seems like the oil cooler might wobble a little so we'll wait for THAT service bulletin.

  Apr 15, 2024     Started on SB0000-88 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

Apparently there's been a problem with the cowling rubbing the radiator on startup with RV-12's, which cause the radiators to leak and need replacement. A fix increases the gap between the radiator and cowling. But it requires you to take the radiator off, cut off a couple of flanges and/or ears, and rivet on a new bracket. So I was able to get the radiator off. But using a cutoff wheel to cut stuff off filled me with some concern. Any slip cuts into the fins. So I put some .063 over the coolng fins and duct taped it down. I was able to cut the flange off, and then I cut the "ears" ALMOST off and then just wiggled them until they snapped off. Looking at the SB instructions suggested that's what Van's did, too, as you can see a little "point" there. You have to do that because otherwise you're almost certainly going to cut into the fins.

  Apr 13, 2024     Riveted front of canopy - (1.3 hours)       Category: Canopy

I riveted the front line of rivets. One is sitting rather proud. I don't know if I just didn't push it in far enough or maybe I forgot to countersink that one. I don't know. Another hole had a small chip on the edge of the countersink. . That'll crack eventually so I'll just have to keep an eye out for it so I can drill a stop hole at that time.

I believe these are all going to be buried in fiberglass.

I also assembled the lock handle.

  Apr 12, 2024     Ran out of screws - (2.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

One of the problems about getting near the end of the project, is you start running out of parts. A screw falls here, a nut falls there over the course of 7 or 8 years and the next thing you know you're submitting a $3 order to Van's with the $10 shipping charge.

I'm 3 screws short on the sides of the canopy along with two nuts. That's my order.

  Apr 11, 2024     Resumed work on canopy - (4 hours)       Category: Canopy

The temperature is warming up enough where I think I can start working on the canopy again. I was able to get the hangar up close to 80 with the kerosene heaters and I started polishing that scratch on one side that's been bugging me. I used NOVUS 3 (no idea where 1 and 2 went) and got it better.

I wasn't happy last fall with the screwing on of the rear canopy to the frame so I took those screws out and drilled out the holes in the frame to a #27. I added a few new scratches taking the canopy off so I'll have to polish those out now. But the screws (except for the ones right on the curves) sit in there a little better now.

I also fit and match drilled the two canopy lift attaches and somehow all of that took four hours.
The next step will be to rivet on the skirts and front of the canopy and start on the foam blocks and then the fiberglass skirts in the front.
Once I get that done I can get inside to finish up control attachments etc.

  Apr 04, 2024     Polished the stabilator - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I got bumped from working opening day at Target Field so I figured might as well polish the stabilator before resuming fitting of the empennage fairing, and listen to the game (Guardians won. Yes!)?

For this I started with NuVite F7 Grade polish with a compound polisher and bonnet (of course). Then I used F7 with a cyclo tool with a wool (Fleece) towel to remove swirl marks. Then mineral spirits to clean off all polish. At this point I had the choice of using Grade C with the compound and then fleece but given that the stabilator has 0 air time, I went directly to the Grade S (very fine) polish with the cyclo machine and a the fleece blanket. After a final buffing with a clean piece of fleece, I then sprinkle on the corn starch and rub it down with a microfiber towel to remove any leftover polish. Then I use an air hose to remove any remaining corn starch (mostly in the holes of the pulled rivets). I don't use mineral spirits on the last step to clean because I want the chemical coating of the polish to remain on the stabilator.

Then I flipped it over and did the top side.

The only bummer today was I hit the wing stand and the wing shifted foward and hit the back of my lawn bench, putting a really big dent in the wing. Fortunately, it's the underside of the wing.

  Apr 02, 2024     Trimmed stabilator skin - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

There was a time, frankly, when I would've gotten to a point I got to today where I'd sacrifice quality for speed. It came after I finished trimming the top of the stabilator skin where it was contacting the empennage fairing. I had marked the bottom and the easy thing, it seemed at the time, would be to just work from underneath to trim away the bottom part. But would working upside down REALLY result in a quality trim? No, of course it wouldn't. So I took the stabilator off.

You did what, now? Sure, it's a pain in the neck to get it back on by myself and all but of course it would be easier to work with it sitting on the bench. And it was. I used a Dremel and attachment that, I saw when I finished, has basically been destroyed by cutting aluminum. But it did the job accurately.

Taking the stabilator off also gives me the opportunity to take the VS and rudder back off (you're going to do WHAT, now?) and polish them up with the G9 I got from NuVite. I want to get the milling finish off the VS and there's a little bit of skin to file away on the bottom that is just about contacting the tail cone. Then I can put them back on for the last time.

Of course, when the polished-up stabilator goes back on, I still will have to fit the fairing to make sure there's no interference and the attach holes need to be drilled and nutplates installed.

  Apr 01, 2024     Stabilator - Fairing interference - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Surprisingly, I was able to get the stabilator back on the tailcone without scratching anything. Then I reinstalled the bottom and top fairng. There's a lot of interference. I readjusted the fairing slightly left but it still rubs in the aft part of the fairing and very little of it has the required 1/8" clearance. I filed the very aft part for now because even if Van's support responds to pull the fairing forward (abandoning the two holes I driled) getting an 1/8" clearance back there is going to be diffiicult.

But it seems to me just filing the skin carefully would accomplish what I need to accomplish.

We'll see what Tony at Van's says.

  Mar 31, 2024     Drilling emp fairing to tailcone - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

I don't really care for the Van's instructions on drilling through the opaque fairing. They have you drill a #40 hole, tape a powerful magnet in the hole, put the fairing back on, put another powerful magnet over a washer and then let the magnet seek the other one. OK, I guess. It worked OK on the spinner, but why? There's a reference line on the tape, you know the hole has to be about 1/4" aft of that line, so you can just transfer that line onto the fairing and drill.

I didn't do that because somewhere in my youth I was taught to follow directions. In this case, I wish I hadn't because the hole in the fairing was off. Not by much but somewhere in my youth I became kind of OCD. In the end, it probably won't matter because the hole is going to get enlarged to a #27 and, besides, there's going to be a nutplate here doing all the work.

The next hole they tell you to drill is the inboard hole on the bottom fairing - both of these on the left side. So this time I did what I just said I should have done. It still didn't come out exactly where I wanted -- a little too forward but a nutplate will fit in there.

Now, I have to get some help to wrestle the stabilator back on to check for clearances.

  Mar 29, 2024     Finished fairing assembly and checked rudder clearance       Category: Empennage

A fairly productive work session saw me fine tune the gap so that it's about .032 all the way around, countersink the tab attach holes on the bottom half and rivet on the tabs, countersink the screw in the top. I'm short of stainless steel #6 screws so I'll have to order more. I mounted the rudder (temporarily) and checked the clearance with the fairing: 3/16". Perfect. Minimum clearance is 1/8". Next step is to drill the fairing attach holes to the tailcone but I've got to figure out how to do that as they're #27 holes and I'm not sure how to cleco a #27 hole. I'll review the instructions. Then I have to get some help to - again: temporarily - mount the stabilator to check the clearance. Then, I guess I'll polish everything up and remount everything, and then take care of that radiator clearance service bulletin.

  Mar 28, 2024     Prepped emp fairing tabs - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Modified #27 drill bit to enlarge holes in upper fairing. Removed and added nutplate after priming each tab and then checked back to the lower fairing and screwed the top fairing on. Next step is to assure a proper gap between the parts before riveted tabs to the lower fairing.

  Mar 27, 2024     Drilled empennage fairings - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

Having wised up about the proper way to place the empennage fairings on the tailcone, I remade one of the marker tapes and refit the fairings and they were darned close. I sanded a few areas. It's pretty difficult to get the things to stay in place even with a couple of clamps but I did the best I could and I was satisifed with the fit after a little sanding. Then I placed the attachment clips to the bottom fairing, aligned them, bent some of them and drilled them to the bottom fairing, then fit the top back on, checked the fit, clamped a couple of the tabs and then drilled the middle hole to #40 in each tab. Next time out I'll move the tabs to the inside and prep them accordingly.

  Mar 21, 2024     Finished cutting emp fairings - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Cut out the bottom faring and sanded everything down to the scribe line. I then fit it onto the tailcone and it's in the ballpark. This is the "old style" fairing so there's no way for front and bottom to properly "nest". I'll have to do some sanding of some edges to get things to work right.

Update: I noticed something when reading Dave Gamble's excellent blog ( http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com/search/label/Page%2012-08 ) : the fairing goes on the outside of the tailcone, not tucked. Now the reason for the edge marking on the tape makes sense. I never thought that there'd be an overlap IN to the airstream but there you; I rechecked the plans and, sure enough, that's a dotted line signifying the aft edge of the tailcone skin, which means the part is hidden.

  Mar 16, 2024     Cut out the top emp fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I used a Dremel to cut out close to the scribe line and then sanded it with a block to get it right to the line. The instructions are a little cruddy for showing the EXACTLY location for a 3/4" step drill hole but I'll deal with that later. I can always put fiberglass back. Anyway, it came out perfect.

I'll start on the bottom next time I'm out there.

  Mar 15, 2024     More marking up the emp fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I heard from the legendary Tony Kirk at Van's and he suggested using a long file to remove some of the trailing edge on the right side of vertical stabilizer where t is coming into contact with the rudder at full deflection. So I marked off about .048, made a straight line and filed back to it. No more contacting the rudder. Tony is the best.

I remade the tape strips to mark the attach holes for the empennage fairng and then dug out the two fairings. One step calls for you to drill a 3/4 hole with a step drill, 1 1/2" from a reference line. But then I remembered - vaguely - some dispute about hole callout on this part. I check plans and, sure enough, the latest plans have it 1 1/8" from the line.

I checked back with Tony at support to be sure threre's no issue with having pre12-iiS tailfeathers with a 12iS fuselage where this part is concerned.

BTW there's a service bulletin out regarding the radiator and cowling. The fix kit shipped today.

  Mar 13, 2024     Finished VS and rudder fairings - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I mounted the vertical stabilizer again and then added the rudder wth the fairing clecoed on and then added the fairing for the VS. You're supposed to have the two clear by 1/8" but no more than 1/4" but with the way the two interact, it's hard to get 1/8" in one spot without 1/4" somewhere else. In the end I just pretty much sanded down to the trim lines and I'm calling it good.

I did notice however that the rudder is contacting the vertical stabilizer skin on the right side. Not on the left side. I sent a letter to Van's support asking if they want me to file down the vertical stabilizer skiin a little bit.

Then it's on to the tailcone fairing. You have to make four 7" strip of masking tape with marks for where the fairing attach holes are going to go. It matched the instruction drawings closely in relation to existing rivets, but not exactly. I don't think it's a problem. I've got the measurements exact.

  Mar 07, 2024     Polished VS and rudder - (4 hours)       Category: Empennage

It was nice to get back to polishing aircraft parts again and I sort of remember how to do it, although my polishing supplies are pretty low. I figured before mounting the various fairings and putting things on the tail cone, it would be a good idea to wash and polish things first. So I washed the VS and rudder last week and took it out to the the hangar today for polishing. I probably should've gone all the way down to a Grade F7 polish on the VS as there some spot on it but I just did a Grade C and then Grade S . I did go to Grade F7 on the rudder. Anyway, I'll do them all again while mounted before the airworthiness inspection, whenever that is. Maybe this year. Maybe not.

After polishing I went back to where I left off on the instructions and fitted, sanded, mounted and drilled the fairing on the vertical stabilizer. I marked a trim line as instructed but I was out of gas and called it a day before doing any trimming.

There's some before and after shots here

  Feb 26, 2024     Started on VS and rudder fairings - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

With temperatures in the 60s -- and snow due -- it seemed like a good time to dig out fairings and get them fitted. I must've done some prep work on the VS fairing years ago because they fit fine around the recess. I cut the aft end 1/8" off the scribe line as indicated in the instructions. The rudder fairing was a little rougher and the recess needed "squaring up", the edges needed cutting and sanding. But eventually I got the rudder fairing fitting quite nicely. Oh, I also sanded down the seam to make it flush with the rest of the fairing.

I think fitted and drilled the rudder fairing, removed it, and deburred and cleaned. I've taken both home to wash in preparation for polishing both before fairings are attached.

I also took so California Custom oxidizer and polish to that drip on the taiilcone and got most of the corrosion out. That, too, will be polished when it warms up to stay.

  Feb 22, 2024     Taking everything apart again - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

Now that I got the entire tail assembly put on, I took it off today. I have to work on all the fairings. I did notice a white streak down the side of the tailcone. I don't what it was. Perhaps from a roof leak? Anyway it looks like it might be corrosive so I'll use some of the California green anti corrosion stuff on it, then buff it out with NuVite when it warms up. I will also be washing and polishing all of the tail assembly before reinstalling.

  Feb 05, 2024     More stabilator connections       Category: Empennage

I safety wired the trim tab hinge pins and had to shoot some silicone on the hinges because they were creaking after spending the last five years just sitting around. Then added the pushrod assembly. I added a washer to the connection at the control horns on the trim tab because the called-out AN3-10 bolt seems long and I think the nut bottomed out. BTW, most of the elastic locking nuts in the original plans have been replaced with metal locking nuts in revisions so I'm doing that.

I connected the D-subs for the flap motor. I want to wrap those wires up tighter with something because they're going to run on the stabilator spar as it moves up and down.

Anyway, I've verified that everything fits and is in working order and now I'm going to take it all apart to work on the fairings. I think. The instructions are confusing here. They tell you to install the aft assembly and then go to Section 12. Section 12 tells you to remove everything. So, who knows how this is supposed to work.

But winter is supposed to return here later this week so not sure when I'll do all that.,

  Feb 03, 2024     Stabilator attached!!! - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

"You've got your friends and you've got your aviation friends," as former RVator Bernie Ockuly is fond of saying. No fewer than 5 RVators from around the Twin Cities responded to my "mayday" call this week as efforts to get the hinge bolt to engage with the nutplate on the right bearing of the fuselage on the RV-12iS. Yesterday I pulled it back, took off the counterbalance arm and tried to recreate the problem by trying to finger-tighten the bolt and I could feel it continually disengage from the threads. So I used a nutdriver with a socket to apply enough pressure to get the bolt to engage and then repeated it several times to be sure everything had been cleaned out and then tried to finger tighten again and it engaged fine.

Was that the problem? Or was that just fixing a problem that had been introduced when trying to fix the problem. There was no way to know without help. I'm convinced it's simply not possible to do this yourself, even though I'm aware of the stories hereabouts that it is. Let's just say, "not for me."

So the guys came over and supported the stabilator and it took a fair amount of effort to get things lined up. I used a screwdriver to slightly open the hinge brackets to allow them to slip over the bearing, then repeated on the other side as they supported things. Lining up still took a little bit of adjusting -- raising the aft end slightly, bringing the front end down etc, until I could pin things with the "drift pins" I'd made for attaching the wings on the RV-7A project almost 20 years ago; glad I saved them.

Once that was done I was able to finger tighten and then tighten the bolts somewhat because THEY ENGAGED THE THREADS!!!!

I didn't torque them down yet because I have a question to research: Is the torque value of an AN4 bolt into a nutplate the same as the torque value of an elastic locknut going onto an AN4 bolt? My suspicion is it's not although I can't yet confirm this.

Anyway, here's a shoutout to my aviation friends (Left to right)

Phil Martineau - Phil flies an RV12 out of St. Paul Downtown Airport and is currently building a Glastar. He's on the EAA Board of Directors and is the retired chairman of Pittsburgh Corning. He's a lot smarter than me. His EAA Builder's Log is good reading. He didn't arrive in time to see the Miracle in Bob's Hangar but he was giving me moral support and technical advice all week. He put his stabilator on by himself.
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&proj=7nwawiuuC

John Schmidt - Longtime member of my EAA Chapter in Lake Elmo although I think now he's moved down to AirLake Airport and is in Chapter 25. You know how there's always those 3 or 4 people in a chapter you can count on for Young Eagles days? That's John. He's a got a gorgeous Cub and an RV-6 project. John is also smarter than me.

Bill Swanson - I've only met Bill once, I think, back when I owned the 7A and we flew into Olivia with the Twin Cities RV Group for lunch. I believe he fiies out of Anoka-Blaine Airport (on the other side of the Twin Cities) and I think he's working on an RV-6 project. He appears to be smarter than me.

Pete Howell - Probably the smartest RVator I know and it goes without saying he's smarter than me. Pete, even if it means driving over from Anoka-Blaine has never failed to show up on those rare occasions when I put out a "mayday". Pete is an RV9A-flying legend and just about the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I also don't believe there's ever been a problem he hasn't been able to solve.

Jeff Schwalen - flies an RV-10 out of South St. Paul's Fleming Field (KSGS). His hangar is on the other side of the field from me and we hadn't met. So I got a new friend out of my three days of frustration with the horizontal stabilator. I can just tell by looking at him he's smarter than me.

Wonderful gentlemen one and all! I can't thank them enough.

  Jan 31, 2024     How to waste another afternoon - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Second verse. Same as the first. Thinking of just giving up and selling the project.

  Jan 30, 2024     How to waste an afternoon - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

One of the more frustrating days. I started to attach the stabilator to the fuselage. Two bolts. Simple, right? I've done it before and it wasn't bad. But, then again, I haven't done it since the SL-00068 "fix" for a problem that wasn't really a problem: the washers between the hinge brackets. They've been replaced by riveted metal spacers. I attached the counterbalance arm and inserted it into the fuselage, turned it 90 degrees and bolted it to the stabilator. All good so far. But I could not get the holes to line up with the bearings on the fuselage tail. Eventually I gave it a good shove and it lined up enough to stick a punch in place as a drift pin while I tightened one bolt. But the bolt on the other side wouldn't engage the nutplate. After several hours, I pulled everything off and disassembled everything then loaded up bolts with Boelube lubricant and ran them into the nutplates to get them to engage. Repeated a few times.

I'll take another run at it at some other time.

Meanwhile a shipment of fiberglass and peel ply (and some mixing cups) arrived from Aircraft Spruce.-

  Jan 10, 2024     Attached rudder - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

There are only two attach points for the rudder but because of the need to insert washers around the rod end bearings, it's a major pain in the neck. But they got inserted. The instructions I have call for the elastic locking 365 nuts. But the new instructions call for an -03 metal locking nut, which I used. My guess is this may have to come off at some point before I attach the cables so I haven't torqued things down. I'm sending out my torque wrenches for calibration.

  Dec 29, 2023     Completed service letter SL000068 - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

I borrowed Vince Bastianii's rivet gun and riveted the nutplate, spacers, and bracket assembly on the outboard bracket. Tough getting in there with a bucking bar but I did so. I had previously squeezed the rivets on the inboard assembly. then I reattached the inboard assembly and riveted the top and bottom into place on both sides and reinstalled all bolts holding things to the spar; torqued.

I'm not ready, I guess to reinstalled the emp on the fuselage. Everything is dusty. I polished a couple of areas on the VS and stabilator skin that might be some corrosion but I'm not sure. Better safe than sorry.

I loosely attached the VS per instructions in section 11 of the KAI.

  Dec 28, 2023     Prepped spacers etc - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

I primed the bare metal of the brackets then prepped each of four spacers by deburring and radiusing the forward edge. I dimpled the thing spacers and countersunk the thick ones but couldn't rivet them all in place until I can borrow a rivet gun.

  Dec 26, 2023     Started on Stabilator service letter SL0000-68 - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

It was good to get back out to the hangar to do some work. The little camper has been given away so have more elbow room. I took the stabilator, put it on the worktable and started working on the service letter. I don't really know what the point of this is. Allegedly, it was hard to install washers when attaching the stabilator to the empennage. I don't know. I don't remember that long ago. I know there are washers super-glued to the brackets and these, I guess, are replaced by shims. Whoopdy-doo. I'm not the best driller-outer of rivets and a few have to be removed to remove the inboard brackets and nutplates. But I got most of the out without trouble and the ones that gave me troubled didn't result in buggering up the hole too badly. The next step is to prime some bare metal on the brackets where I've sanded super glue away so I've got to hit the NAPA store and see if I can find some.

  Dec 25, 2023     SL-00070 - (.1 hour) Category: Service B's

There's a service letter out to install an optional fuel tank access fitting to make it easier to check the fuel pickup strainer. I haven't done anything on the project since returning from back East because it's cold and the canopy is loosely sitting on the frame and I don't want to touch it. So I'll wait but ordered and received the installation kit.

  Aug 09, 2023     Added canopy blocks - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

The replacement canopy blocks showed up so I went back to the hangar one final time before shutting it down for the summer. They installed fine. Then I riveted on the guide that goes into the slots. I didn't bother adding the blocks to the rollbar yet (Van's acknowledged that they should be drilled #27, btw). In some of these shots you can see a problem. The edge distance on the canopy skirt-to-attach angle i miniscule. This is only on the pilot side. I'm dumbfounded as to why this would be since there's really only one way for the skirts to fit, especially with the cardboard spacers in place.

I clecoed on the canopy and then put screws/nuts in place along the rear bow. What I found is, despite the clecoes being staight as I drilled, the holes, while perpendicular to the plexi, are not PERFECTLY lined up with the hole in the canopy frame. And how could they be since the method of drilling is to eyeball the underlying frame hole. This as a little easier to cover on the RV-7A since we were dealing with flush screws; not so on the RV-12.

I remain concerned about the canopy edge slightly resting against the frame near the forward corner cutouts. Van's tech support didn't seem particularly concerned in this location, but I am.

  Aug 08, 2023     Canopy latch odds and ends - (1 hour)       Category: Canopy

My email to Van's support was returned and was underwhelming. There are new support people there and it's tough to get a straight answer. The only answer I got to the question of whether the callout for a #19 hole when it's to be tapped to 8-32 was "best to use the instructions for the parts you have" when I'd asked if that callout was correct and had been corrected in a subsequent revision before the plans and part numbers changed?

Anyway, a new bushing for the canopy latch arrived (couldn't find the original one) which meant a $3 part with $5 shipping) and I had to file it out to get it to fit over the canopy handle. I beveled the inside of the lower edge so it would fit lower on the handle as instructed. And I painted the handle (I knew the old engine mount would be good for something).

I also made the lifting latches out of 3/4x3/4/x.063 (after a search located the angle), and then put the parts aside for the spring as I'm about to leave for Boston.

So the canopy is sitting on the frame, unclecoed and we'll get back to it when I return from the East.

  Aug 05, 2023     Guide block nonsense - (1 hour)       Category: Canopy

Parts and instructions have changed since the finishing kit was delivered years ago and sometimes that can bite you in the tush. So can just being dumb. I pulled out the plastic blocks that go along with the guide plate. Instructions say to tap the holes 8-32 and countersink for a #8 screw, so I drilled the holes to #19. Why? Because the canopy latch instructions have you do the same thing. But #19, at least for the canopy block, is too large a hole for an 8-32 tap. So I had to reorder the block and they're stupid expensive ($12 apiece. For plastic). Not sure how that latch is going to work out but I guess we'll find out later.

I also pulled the guide blocks. These parts have changed since my finishing kit arrived. These instructions also say to drill #19 and tap. Nope. Not gonna do it. I sent a note to Van's asking if that's correct.

I put the canopy back on the frame without clecoing it down and I think that's where I'll keep it through the winter as I'm soon to leave for back East.

Airplane construction is likely over for this year.

  Aug 03, 2023     Painted skirts - (.5 hour) Category: Canopy

Not much to do at the hangar so primed and painted (rattle can; hammered finish) the interior side off the canopy skirts.

  Aug 02, 2023     Canopy work - (4 hours)       Category: Canopy

It was another warm day in the Twin Cities, perfect for drilling plexiglass, so "H", our longtime family friend agreed again to be the hobbit who got inside to hold the wood block against the canopy skirts. She did a fine job but when done, I noticed the edge distance on the left side was quite small. How is this possible? The canopy skirts are predrilled, the canopy was closed in its normal position; everything was as directed. No clue, and I'm not going to worry about it.

I had someone coming for a camper rental demonstration hours later so I decided to just stay at the hangar and work.

I deburred the new holes in the canopy, then drilled all the holes out to #27 and deburred them again. Then I countersunk all the holes in the canopy along the front bow.

I drilled the canopy latch mechanism as intructed. I'll need to prime and paint the latch. And I drilled the canopy guide and countersunk it to fit a #8 screw. I'd done pretty much the same thing to the canopy latch after drilling out to a #19 as instructed. So I did the same thing to the blocks. That was stupid. First, an 8-32 tap takes a #27 hole, not a #19. So I ordered new blocks. They're backordered. So I think that pretty much concludes the canopy work for this year.

  Jul 27, 2023     Drilled canopy skirts - (3 hours)       Category: Canopy

Another hot day in the Twin Cities so it was back to work on the canopy. I put it back on the canopy frame but the sides still don't tuck into place so it was a lot of sanding and fitting and finally got them to sit flush against the canopy attach angle. Once that was done, I taped up the canopy skirts and then drilled and clecoed them to the canopy frame on both sides. Then dimpled the forward five holes on each and countersunk the corresponding holes on the frame and bent the forward part so they sit up against the canopy. Then I removed everything and deburred all holes on the frame, canopy, and skirts and trimmed the aft end of the skirts to allow a 1/16" clearance to the tailcone skin.

Next step is to put it back on after having a volunteer, probably Heather, get inside and then drill the skirts to the canopy and attach angles.

Everything is looking good so far.

  Jul 27, 2023     Drilled front and rear bows - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

The temperature in the hangar yesterday hit a balmy 101 degrees and I didn't want to miss out on perfect conditions for drilling acrylic plastic so I went to the hangar and drilled the canopy to the front and rear bows of the canopy frame.

Before I did, however, I sought information from Van's Aircraft's technical department regarding instructions to "pull down" the sides of the canopy and duct tape them down, knowing that doing so would eliminate the near perfect fit of the sides of the canopy against the canopy frame angles (these and the side skirts still to be drilled will "sandwich" the edges of the canopy in place).

The response :
//Hi Bob,

//Yes, what you are doing is acceptable. The plexiglass will flex a bit. It is best to fit first and trim second. As long as you are getting good contact over the front bow, you will what to avoid filing. This may cause a weak point.

//Thanks!

//Tom

I had also asked about that point where the canopy edge goes over the canopy frame near the notch cutout. They didn't seem concerned about that.

And so I did as instructed and drilled the canopy to the frame front and back, using the deburring tool on each hole in the canopy before clecoing it into place.

After doing so, I found that there's NOT flex in the canopy to move those sides back into position after removing the duct tape, so I marked them and after taking off the canopy, sanded the sides to near the line to see if they'll fit better. I didn't sand them all the way to the line but pretty close. I'll do more after I pick up some 100 grit sandpaper. I polished the edges to 225, 400, and 600 grit just to be safe.

I also deburred the underside of the holes in the canopy and all the holes on the front and rear bow.

I guess I was supposed to drill the side skirts to the canopy frame (not through the plexi) before taking the canopy off the frame but, of course, until the sides fit back in their appointed spot, I can't really do that. Once they do, I'll have a helper next week hold a wood block against the frame as I drill the side skirts though the canopy.

I'll probably have to wait until spring to do the fiberglass work in the front of the canopy as I'm moving back East for three months but getting this part done now puts me back on track to maybe get this thing in the air next year. Whether I'm flying it is still to be determined.

By the way, looking back at the instructions (where I date everything), I found it was FOUR YEARS AGO when I first pulled the canopy out of the shipping box and set it on the canopy frame.

  Jul 25, 2023     Drilled front frame - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

Fit the canopy again and sanded edges . Then did the tape trick to indicate where the canopy meets frame. Removed canopy and drilled #40 pilot holes. Will drill tomorrow.

Not quite sure about instruction to duct tape sides and pull down but we'll see.

  Jul 24, 2023     Fit canopy - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

It's the hottest week of the year so far and I've finished building a shed for Sean (except for painting) and I'm thinking MAYBE I can get the canopy fitted and drilled before I have to move to Massachuetts for three months to take care of my sister, who is battling leukemia and just had a stem cell transplant. So I pulled the very dusty canopy out. And it fits great with the rear window. I didn't realize I wouldn't have to be doing a lot of slicing like when I built the RV-7A canopy many years ago.

I'm stuck, however on some dimensions Van's calls out in the plans for the forward corners. There are reference lines on the plans but they don't seem to point to anything. I'll do some more research.

  Jul 24, 2023     Complied with SB 00059 - (.1 hour)       Category: Service B's

I hadn't attached the old canopy latch block yet so complying with this one didn't require much. Just had to find the screws and pull out the new canopy latch block and screw it in.

  Jul 02, 2023     Sealed rear window - (2 hours)       Category: Finishing

I wasn't convinced that using the Van's "baggie method" to inject ProSeal between the turtle deck skin and the rear window would lead to anything but a mess so I bought a couple of 100 ml syringes to use. Worked Ok. Acceptable, not great. The main problem I had is I used electrical tape to protect the turtle deck aluminum skin and when you curl it according to the instructions to allow access to the screws, it actually curls over and onto the window at the two rear curves. I have one thin spot -- the curve on the pilot side -- but I'm going to leave it as is. It's fine. I kind which I'd done a better job with the filet process. I also have some adhesive and ProSeal remnant on the skin I need to get off. Can't use chemicals; bad for acrylics. I may just sand with 400+ grit. We'll see.

  Jun 27, 2023     Reinstalled window - (1 hour)       Category: Finishing

I've done very little work at the hangar this month because I'm trying to get other projects done before I move to the Boston area for three months to take care of my sister while she undergoes a bone marrow transplant. But while waiting for a camper renter to return, I finished polishing the edges of the rear window and then put it back on the plane, lightly securing it with the called-out hardware. I have to figure out how to shoot some ProSeal under the turtle deck before tightening up the screws. The "baggie" method sounds really messy.

  Jun 01, 2023     Finished final adjustments to rear window - (4 hours)       Category: Finishing

I ran a line of electrical tape even with the aft edge of the front part of the rollbar, but, really, the window already lined up perfectly except for a small part at the base of the right side. Used the edge scraper from ATS (expense) to bevel top and bottom edges. I sanded it down with 225, then 400, then 600 sandpaper. Then I drilled out all holes to #27 and took a deburring tool to all holes. I used the scraper to bevel top and bottom edges and sanded those with 225/400/600. I sanded out the accommodation for the fuel filler neck and sanded that. Drilled out holes in the turtle deck to #27 using a reamer and deburred. Broke the edges inward for a better fit. Cleaned it all up with mineral spirits and decided to let it dry completely before reinstalling the window (tomorrow? maybe) at which time I'll run a bead of ProSeal to keep the water out.

  May 29, 2023     Window drilled - (4.5 hours)       Category: Finishing

Finally! After about 8 months of waiting and the stars to align, the temperature hit 85 in the Twin Cities today, which is a lot better than hitting 85 in July. So our dear friend Heather -- the daughter we never had -- agreed to help with the wood-block holding as I alternately drilled #30 and #40 holes. After cutting her loose, I went back over the rollbar, reaming the #40 holes out to #26, then tapping them 6-32 and inserting a screw lightly to hold it in place. I'm not sure when I'll be back at the hangar so I didn't put the electrical tape in place to mark the trim but there's also very little trimming to be done. After that, I'll ream out the turtle skin-window holes to #27 and clean up the edges and then trim for the filler neck.

I'm very happy with how it's going and very happy to finally get it done.

  May 15, 2023     Now back to the window - (.5 hour)       Category: Finishing

The thermometer in the hangar said 80. Not sure I believe that but it was at least warm enough to move the rear window into place and try to get it positioned for drilling when I do believe it.

  May 08, 2023     Complied with Stabilator counterweight service bulletin - (1.5 hours)       Category: Service B's

Finally gorgeous weather in Minnesota so took the e-bike over to the hangar looking for something to do. Originally I was considering putting the stabilator on for good so pulled out the service bulletin and kit which is pretty easy. Just take the weights off and throw away the hardware (I don't reuse hardware), fit the new "mass balancing straps" and then use them as the drill guide to drill 3 holes on each side. Remove, deburr, reinstall and then rivet with six Cherrymax rivets. The only question I had was Van's sends four washers where only two are indicated. Knowing how cheap Van's is, I'm not sure what that's all about.

Anyway, I didn't drill any weight out of the counterweights because that's to be done after painting. But everything else is done.

Almost warm enough to drill some rear window holes, which at the moment is holding everything up. C'mon, summer!

  May 06, 2023     Painted canopy frame - (.5 hour)       Category: Canopy

Slowly -- too slowly -- it's warming up outside and soon it will be warm enough to start drilling some acrylic plastic. I noticed over the winter I hadn't painted the canopy frame so now that the hangar is dried out and warmed up a bit, I grabbed a can of hammered finish rattle can paint and did the job. Looks acceptable.

Other than that, not much more I can do until that rear window is drilled and installed. I did buy a battery charger for the EarthX battery and took care of that, though.

  Apr 27, 2023     Finished GPU installation - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

The 1" 6-32 screws arrived from Aircraft Spruce (ordered some epoxy too) so I installed them, four washers on each screw to attach the GPU plug to the bracket. I moved the groundwire to the other side of the overflow bottle which is much better tested it out. Still a little weird with the G3X dimming when I turn on the avionics. Also when I turn on the master even though the battery isn't connected. I'll read up on things.

  Apr 18, 2023     Made a bracket for GPU - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I did my blood platelet donation and then stopped by the hangar to do a little cleaning and started looking at ways to brace the GPU plug. I had a couple of DG-14 Adel clamps so I made up a backing plate (which was included in the White Lightning installation kit that came with the unit but not with the $25 replacement kit) and finally got the plate secured to the engine mount. I'm going to reroute the ground wire to the other side of the coolant tank. I couldn't screw on the GPU plug itself because I don't have 1" #6 screws. God forbid they should include those in the kit.

  Mar 16, 2023     Wired up White Lightning GPU - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Finally got the White Lightning wired up. Nice little unit. Only thing I noticed is when I turn on the avionics, the display dims considerably (and stays that way) on the G3Xs (dual screen). The draw doesn't seem significant, especially since only the radio and xponder are added on the avionics.

  Mar 12, 2023     Riveted cockpit light bracket - (.1 hour)       Category: Lighting

There are new versions of the Chapter 40 (Lighting) than the one that came with my lighting kit and it was a little confusing because the instructions for installing the eyeball cockpit light have you wiring up a potentiometer and a housing for it. I didn't get that. Browing around Van's website, it seems clear that it's either included in newer kits OR available as an option for $110. Since I'll be flying under light sport/sport pilot rules, I can't fly at night so I don't need to spend $110 to dim a light I'm not going to use in the first place.

I also traced various wiring up around the cockpit rollbar that doesn't exactly match my instructions. There is a two wire lead coming out of the connector at the canopy latch unit and I THINK that's designed to be wired to the eyeball light; it appears to be a common ground, which makes sense.

I found a bag with two ES-00141s -- butt splices for 22-26 gauge wire. But my standard crimpers won't crimp a butt splice that small -- it's a tiny wire. So I'll have to come up with something (a pair of pliers?).

So, anyway, all I got done besides shoveling more snow at the hangar was riveting on the eyeball light bracket.

  Mar 10, 2023     Miscellaneous puttering - (1 hour)       Category: Lighting

I added the RTV red silicone to the #1 exhaust springs and added a little more to the other three.


I finished off the throttle quadrant handle. Stupidly, bought a handful of stop nuts thinking the nut on the handle was a different size than I already had.

I then moved on to the cockpit lightning and drilled out two rivets in the rollbar, clecoed on the eyeball holder, match drilled two other holes and then countersunk the three holes that hold the eyeball and brought it home for priming and painting.

The rest of my time was spent looking for the instructions and connector bag for the White Lightning Power Unit. Didn't find them and the replacement connectors has shipped. What a mystery this has become.

  Mar 08, 2023     Finished trimming bottom cowling - (2 hours)       Category: Engine

Using a dremel and a cutoff wheel (actually several wheels), I finished trimming back to the 3/8" line in the bottom cowling cutout for the oil cooler and the radiator. I sanded everything smooth and then refit the cowl. It fits slick as snot. I'll remeasure everything and sand or file away more in spots that aren't quite trimmed back to 3/8" at some point.

I also added a bit of RTV where the pitot tube begins to snake around the airbox on the Rotax 912iS. I saw that the Lockwood RV-12iS that someone posted on Van's Air Force had done that, though it's not in the instructions.

And I torqued down the #1 EGT probe.

  Mar 08, 2023     Complied with SB-00064-RV12 - (.5 hour)       Category: Service B's

After I finished trimming the cowling around the radiator and the oil cooler, I doublechecked to be sure none of the exhaust components were interfering with the bottom cowl, then removed it and installed the "flat springs" around the slip joints on the #1 exhaust tubing. Simple

Also I have to remember the red RTV on that spring.

  Mar 07, 2023     Fitting bottom cowling - (1.5 hours)       Category: Engine

I fit the bottom canopy, which, as expected, hits the radiator and oil cooler and then measured 3/8" around the opening, drew the line and then cut away that much using a Dremel tool. I couldn't finish the cut as I'd promised Carolie I'd take her to lunch at Holman Table at the downtown St. Paul Airport (it was delicious, by the way.) Expect it to be a very nice fit once it's cut and sanded.

  Mar 06, 2023     Secured throttle cable       Category: Engine

While looking over the instructions on the throttle cable (as a result of looking at the photos of Lockwood's RV-12iS), I realized I didn't have a double Adel clamp on the engine mount to secure it and keep it from rubbing against the mount. Maybe I had it on before I had to take the engine off to replace the mount but I don't think so. So I installed the clamp and, of course, it took about 2 hours, evoking surgeons in an operating room. I also adjusted the White Lightning cable to allow the overflow bottle to fit back in, I put some heat shrink on the end of the throttle cable, and I secured more wiring with some tie wraps.

Also secured the pitot line to an Adel clamp, wrapping it first in some rescue tape. We'll see how that works out.

Unfortunately, I can't find the terminal kit for the White Lightning, which I'd brought home to read and then put somewhere. So I had to order another one. $25 plu $20 shipping. Ridiculous.

  Mar 05, 2023     Mucking around the engine - (1 hour) Category: Avionics

While I was up in Vermont, the hangar flooded a bit since I wasn't around to shovel so went out a little bit today to start the cleanup, then got interested in moving a couple of small wires (to the battery contactor) because I didn't like the route I had. I went over the engine mount support instead. Not sure that's much better. But I added some spiral wrap.

For the White Lightning, I bought two battery cables from Van's. I'll hack one end off on each to solder on the connectors. I attached one to the battery contactor. But now, of course, I can't find the White Lightning connectors.

And finally, I saw a post on VAF with pictures of the engine installation and looked at my throttle cable route. I don't see how it doesn't chafe on the engine mount support tube. Will investigate maybe installing some clamp.

  Feb 15, 2023     Attached throttle lever plate - (1 hour)       Category: Finishing

I went to the hangar with the best of intentions to get stuff done but, alas, all I got done was adding a snap bushing to a spot on the passenger side that I'd missed, and adding the plastic plate at the base of the throttle quadrant. I tried to add the throttle cross lever but couldn't find the right nut. Or I had the right nut but it wouldn't fit. So, of course, I submittied a 20-cent order to Van's.

I pulled out the service bulletin fix kit for the exhaust, but I didn't have the printed instructions with me. So I gave up and called it an afternoon.

  Feb 12, 2023     Set ECO stop - (1 hour)       Category: Controls

There was one item in Section 49 (engine controls) that I had to leave undone last year because I needed an EFIS display to complete: setting the ECO stop for 98% power. When I fired up the G3X, I couldn't see where the throttle setting was displayed but Tony Kirk at Van's pointed it out. Then when I checked my ECO stop position, it only displayed 97% power. So I filed some of the back of the stop off and remounted (and repeated) until the throttle went to 98% power and locked it in place. Also checked that throttle level operates through the entire range.

I just have to install the handle, check to see if I put heat shrink at the end of the throttle cable, and reinstall the tunnel cover (can't do it yet because I haven't attached rudder cables; I should do that soon) to complete Section 49.

While searching for an errant washer, I also discovered that I didn't put a snap bushing in the bundle where it enters the air frame under the passenger area. I'll do that next.

  Feb 07, 2023     SB fix kits arrive - (.1 hour) Category: Service B's

The fix kits for stabilator mass, hinge spacer, exhaust flat spring, and canopy latch arrived. None of these should be very difficult as final installation hasn't occurred on any of them.

  Feb 06, 2023     Avionics are alive - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

The temperature rocketed up to 34, so I headed to the hangar with no discernible plan. I tie-wrapped the heck out of the wiring behind the AV--6000 to tidy things up. I also added some spiral wrap to the wiring that branches off to the pitch servo because I was concerned it would chafe on the airframe and/or the fuel shutoff cable.

I looked at wiring in the White Lightning power unit to the battery contactor but it doesn't come up with any connectors to do so. So I decided it was time to attach the +/- cables to the lithium battery and fire up the avionics.

They came alive find. Not much is connected so the G3X has lots of error messages -- spar pins, canopy, AHRS etc. I haven't read enough, really about how the Rotax works so I just quickly flipped on the fuel pumps to see that they operate (they do) . I got a "fault" on Lane B on the ECU but I think it's probably too early to worry about that sort of thing. I still have some connections to make up front anyway.

The three green lights -- avionics master etc - on the switches do not light although the switches themselves are functioning.

[Update: The Lane B fault was no big deal. I had turned both on at the same time. Flipping A on and waiting and then Flipping B on worked. Engine data, such as it is, showed up on the MFD after I restarted it in config mode. And finally those green lights on the three switches ARE on; you just can't see them because of the placement of the switch]

  Jan 29, 2023     Ground power unit - (.1 hour) Category: Avionics

It's clear that there's a good sized learning curve behind the RV-12 avionics so I bought Van's' White Lightning ground power unit so I can sit in the plane and play with the avionics without draining the battery. The installation question is whether it should be wired to the output side of the battery contactor (I'm leaning that way) or the input side. With the output side, you can power the airframe without draining the battery because you don't turn on the battery master. With the input side you get the benefit of recharging the battery without turning on the battery master.

I'm reluctant to do that because I don't know enough about recharging issues for the EarthX lithium battery.

In any event, it'll be a bear to get access to either side of the battery contactor so it'll wait 'til warming weather. -8 this morning in Minnesota.

  Jan 25, 2023     Closed up the panel - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

With the big wires grommets properly ProSealed, I did a final check of the wiring and added some spiral wrap in spots where I thought chafing was a possibility -- primarily the com antenna at the firewall (that connector really should be a right angle connector) and also some of the wires to the HIC modules area that I thought might contact the frame of the transponder. I also tie-wrapped a couple of spots. Then I reinstalled the upper fuselage skin (of course I'm short two plastic washers and I have to order some of the stainless 507 screws in a future Van's order).

And then I attached the second G3X. That done, I followed the instructions, put a piece of tape on the upper right corner of the G3X, reinstalled the canopy frame and checked for interference. Yep, it rubbed on both sides. So I filed and filed until it BARELY closes and open without hiitting but there's no way that's not going to rub slightly once the canopy is on. But I was mindful of the admonishment not to file all the way through the tube of the frame. How much is that? I don't know and didn't want to find out so once I got it to clear, I resigned myself to the fact there'd be rub marks on the upper outer corners of the G3X's, which there are anyway because that tape didn't protect squat. Whatever.

Finally, I cut the pitot lines where they meet and connected them with the quick connect FLF00023. Seems to me where that come up from the tunnel could be a chafing point; not sure how to protect that.

The other thing I have to figure out is what to do with all the extra wire from the trim servo.

I have a ground power unit on the way so I don't wear down the battery when testing everything out, and I'm awaiting a Halotron fire extinguisher before I power everything up. The regular ABC fire extinguishers destroy electrical equipment and aluminum.

[Update 2/4] Needed, ordered, and received more AN507C832R8 screws and a couple of black washers for the upper fuselage skin and instrument panel. It's funny how hardware walks away after inventory.

  Jan 20, 2023     Sealed wire pass-through - (.2 hour)       Category: Avionics

I mixed up some ProSeal, jammed it into a syringe, then drove to the hangar to better seal the two rubber grommets with ECU and GPS wires. I ProSealed the passenger-side grommets after the pass through was less than sturdy after a previous session in which the engine side only was ProSealed.

  Jan 17, 2023     Nutplate for fuel inspection cover and installed AP head - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Hadn't been out to the hangar in awhile other than to shovel snow and when I arrived today a bunch of snow (very heavy) fell off the roof so I had to shovel that out so the hangar doesn't flood. More to come tomorrow, I suspect. It's coming into the hangar but, so far, not as bad as last year.

One of the things I wanted to do today is add a new nutplate to the fuel cover. You may recall that, as designed, the nutplate is DANGEROUSLY close to the fuel line, especially the old design lines. I had earlier removed it. (See August 25, 2022 entry). So I added a new one and then took some firesleeve and ziptied it to the fuel line which rests almost on the bottom skin. In the spring I'll put some blue RTV in there.

I also added the head for the autopilot and test fit the MFD. I have to reinstall the top cover in order to screw both Garmin G3X in but I still want to load up a syringe with a bunch of ProSeal to cover the wire grommets on both sides first.

I also removed all the spark plugs and shot some oil fog in each cylinder to prevent corrosion. I put the spark plugs back but they are not torqued

  Dec 24, 2022     Completed right wing electrical connector fix - (.2 hour) Category: Lighting

I only had a few minutes to spend in the hangar after helping to pull a car out of a snowdrift from the blizzard of the last three days but I was able to crimp on a new connector for the ground wire and insert it, then screwed the terminal to the wing rib. That completes part off the stuff-to-do-in-the--winter list for this year.

I really should get going on finishing the "lighting" section.

  Dec 16, 2022     Prepped panel for MFD - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Some of the section of the KAI on the dual G3X display aren't particularly complete, especially if you have the extra-spendy silk-screened panels. In one section it tells you to countersink holes that don't need to be countersunk and in another is doesn't tell you to countersink holes that do need to be countersunk. So the only real way to identify the countersinking is to put the panel section on and put the G3X in and see which holes it's covering. Those are the ones that need to be countersunk.

So I did that over a couple of days, bringing the panel home to do the task, and then I reinstalled it and test fit the G3X. I haven't yet permanently put it in because there's a few things I want to do before closing things up. Some wire wrap arrived from Aircraft Spruce that I'll use to protect some areas that I think might be chafe prone.

SCREW pan HD 4-40 5/8 came in a Van's order along with some heat shrink.

I also still need to install the autopilot control head.

BTW, I've given up trying to fit the harness in those plastic doohickeys down near the fuses that Van's wanted installed. They're just not big enough and it's just a really, really crappy design there. I would much rather have put some Adel clamps in. I'll probably leave the plastic junk in and tie wrap it "closed" around the wires.

That's another area where chafing concerns me because of the metal throttle and fuel shutoff cables that share some of the space. I may wrap some "rescue tape" around the wires. We'll see.

  Dec 12, 2022     Completed SB-00058 - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

Everything went great in complying with the service bulletin to replace the HIC module because of reports of low fuel pressure, probably because of loose contacts in the Molex connector on the old HIC. I opened up the connector and cut the wires, checking the wire number for confirmation. I made up new labels because Stein's labels aren't covered with heat shrink and some are smudged so I wanted something permanent that also indicated what pin each wire goes into on the new connector. Then I inserted them where they go after stripping off 1/4" of wire on the 14 gauge wire. I like these connectors much better.

I did a continuity test to be sure each wire was properly connected by checking the X3 connector on the fuse and also ground points for both the airframe and "Lane A".

Then I reinstalled the ECU which is moved slightly. Thus the newly drilled holes via the TOOL-00114k. Everything looks great and now I should be able to continue with installation of the passenger side G3X.

  Dec 11, 2022     Started on SB-00058 - (1 hour)       Category: Service B's

I removed the old HIC module after moving the ECU out of the way yesterday. Then I clecoed and screwed in pace TOOL-00114, which is, basically, a drill guide. That done, removed the guide, then filed the holes a little bit to get the new HIC module -- now known as AV-600009 -- to fit in the slots. I have not yet screwed it into place.

The next step will be to disconnect the old wires from the old Molex connector and insert them into the new connector. I think that maybe gets done before I screw it in place but I didn't have heat on in the hangar today because that kerosene I'm using is really dirty and I didn't feel like breathing fumes today. And it needs to be comfortable to do some wiring work in confined spaces. Maybe tomorrow.

  Dec 10, 2022     Replaced right wing connector       Category: Wings

I repeated the left wing wire ID process on the right wing, removed all of the AMP connectors and installed a new blue AMP connector box. I didn't label the wires, instead I made marks on the wire to indicate what pin # on the connector each pin goes in. The KIA has the actual wire number. I couldn't remount the connector, though because I need the MS35206-218 screws, which I've ordered from Van's. Van's says it's taking more than a week now to fill orders. Should've ordered from Aircraft Spruce.

BTW, the #1 wire (ground) pulled out of the pin when I was removing it. Bad crimp. Good thing I did all this. I had to order new pins from -- you guessed it -- Van's.

All that (sort of) done, I turned attention to the service bulletin to replace the Molex connector on the HIC module (SB-00058). I didn't do much because the kerosene heater was overwhelming with fume so I removed the ECU (which is step one), saved the hardware (taped it to the ECU), and will continue the work tomorrow, perhaps.

  Dec 05, 2022     Completed AOA installation, wire ID. - (1 hour)       Category: Lighting

Th RV-12iS HIC module replacement kit finally showed up so I can get going on that next now that I finished the AOA installation in the left wing. That was made possible by getting a tube of Molikote (aka Dow 4 lubricant) and inserting the 2" aluminum tube. Seem a little wobbly but it's in as far as it can go. And now I'm wondering if there's supposed to be an O-ring in there like there is on the fuselage side. I'll bet there is.

Anyway, I wired the stall warning switch and took off the nav/strobe light and used the multimeter to identify all wires. I labeled the ones at the light, but I'd just stuck the labels at the wing root and they eventually fell off. So this time I put some clear heat shrink over them. And I'm posting extra pictures in the event I want to identify things in the future.

Shortly I'll put on a new connector and this time be sure all the wires are in the proper receptacle.

**update***
One of the problems with the Van's instructions and wiring diagrams is that it only uses numbers for wires rather than a description of what the wires actually DO. In the picture below, the Black, Yellow, Green, and Red wires are not in the Molex connector in the same order as in the Van's KAI. So I had check and doublecheck to be sure that they went to the correct pin at the wing route. And I'm making this update in case me or the plane's future owner needs to repeat the search.

First, the Aeroled Pulsar EXP wiring:
The Black is Ground
The Yellow is Strobe Power
The Red is NAV light Power
The Green is Strobe Sync.

Depending what version of the KAI you have, the wire numbers could be different. I THINK the wiring comes in a harness now whereas before, we had to make our own wiring.

The pre-2019 wire numbers are as follows (left wing):

Strobe Power - B203 (Yellow on the fixture) Goes in Pin #8 at the wing root. On new harnesses: White wire at the wing root.
Nav Power - B212 (Red on the fixture). Goes in Pin #6 at the wing root. On new harnesses: White/orange at the wing root.
Strobe Sync - B318 (Green on the fixture). Goes in Pin #7 at the wing root. On new harnesses: White/blue wire at the wing root.
Black, of course, is ground and is locally connected.
The other wire in the left wing harness is B218 (stall warning). That is now W217 on the Van's wiring chart. Goes in Pin 2.

Pre RV-12iS has a landing light only in the right wing so I have not included that here.

  Nov 22, 2022     Let's wait some more! - (.3 hour) Category: Wings

I found out today that -- surprise - the fix kit for the Van's Service bulletin on the HIC connector is now back-ordered. I love Van's but this is getting ridiculous. At least when things were bad last year they produced video updates describing what they're doing to cure their supply problems. But on has not been produced since April.

But Van's also has a quality control issue. In the absence of anything else to do, I decided to finish up the Angle of Attack kit installation in the wing, the last step of which calls for making a 2 inch long aluminum tube that connects the wing to the fuselage, allowing the AOA pressure to go up to the Garmin instruments.

One was in the retrofit kit. Wrong sized tube.

So ordered another one. $4 plus the usual handling. The website says it's in stock. We'll see.

  Nov 21, 2022     Reinstalled fuel line, autopilot servo and fuel tank - (3 hours)       Category: Fuel System

The new fuel line went in OK -- it might have been about 1/32" long -- but took a lot of finagling to get the threads to engage on the fitting but that was eventually accomplished. Had to remove one control rod to reinstall the Adel (cushioned) clamp then holds it into place and then reinstalled. Then bolted the fuel tank back in place, torqued all fittings to about 87 inch pounds (after calculating for the Crow's foot). I used a torque value of the midway point of the callout for a 3/8" aluminum tube. Then reinstalled the auto pilot servo and control rod. Lots of scrapes on the hand.

  Nov 21, 2022     Constructed new fuel line. Again - (1 hour)       Category: Fuel System

I brought a bunch of tools home so I could work on making a new tank-to-fuel-pump line in relative warmth. I was exceedingly careful with measurements and came up with one I THINK will work. In order to get those measurements right, I did the pump end first, which is a 90-degree bend. That allowed me to place it on the figure in the instructions (27iS-04 Figure 2) to get the reference point for a 20 29/32" mark, which is the beginning of the bend line for the tank end. Then I put the fittings on and flared that end.

Of course, now I can't use a spring bender to make this bend and if I'd made the bend first I wouldn't be able to get the collar on before flaring the tube.

What I was able to do is put the whole thing in a small Imperial tube bender to at least START the bend. I didn't get it quite right, but I got it pretty close.

So where did that nick come from? One of the suggestions the last time I made (remade, actually) this line was to put a bulkhead fitting on and use that for leverage when making the bend. It's possible that it put pressure on the collar which dug into the soft aluminum; I just don't know. But as I said earlier, this is the second nick I've discovered on this line (one I might've made when tightening a B-nut) so I'm going to keep a close eye on this to see if I'm missing anything.

  Nov 19, 2022     Added missing rivets; pulled fuel line - (2 hours)       Category: Fuel System

17 degrees today so I didn't anticipate spending too much time at the hangar; I'd intended only to START the process of pulling the fuel tank so that I could install those four rivets I missed during construction of the center section. But the fuel tank came out easily once I loosened the fuel lines so I pulled it and finished those rivets.

However, I noticed a "nick" in the fuel line just below the collar for the B Nut. This is the second time I've found a nick in this location. Previously I thought maybe a wrench dinged it during tightening. The fuel tank is a really poor design and it's near impossible to get wrenches on the nuts. But on this particular nut, I think it was the collar that pressed into the tubing somehow; possibly while making a bend. I don't know.

But I pulled the fuel line which means I also had to remove the autopilot servo. This is a REAL pain in the neck to make because the Van's instructions don't work; at the tank end it says to make a 21/32" mark and begin a 35 degree bend, THEN flair the tube. You can't; a collar won't fit over the bend and you can't flare with the collar in the place. This has to be done after flaring using spring benders.

I've got enough tubing to make one, maybe two attempts at getting it right. We'll see.

  Nov 15, 2022     Removing AMP connectors - (.1 hour)       Category: Avionics

After testing out various options to removing the AMP connectors on the wing route housing and considering other alternatives to buying a $157 tool from DigiKey, I decided to buy the $157 tool.

After today's funeral for my friend and former neighbor, Hadley Bakker (ALS sucks!), we stopped by the hangar briefly to test it out.

I don't remember what sex was like, really, but it must've been like this.

  Nov 13, 2022     Preparing to undo stuff for a service bulletin - (.1 hour)       Category: Service B's

I took another look at Van's Service Bulletin 00058 and realized I misread the affected models of the need to replace an HIC module that regulates power to the fuel pumps. Or I forgot what year it is. One of those. It affects avionics kits shipped before August 2022. For some reason I was thinking 2021 and mine was shipped to SteinAir in November 2021. So I've ordered SB-00058 fix kit which will run another $97 or so. Since I'll have to remove the ECU and those big cables, I'm not going to worry about those two grommets since moving the ECU will pull those grommets out for good. I'll just replace them later and do the prosealing all over again.

  Nov 12, 2022     Cleaning up things in the tail cone - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I crawled back into the tailcone and removed the loose zip ties and zip tied the pitot tube, static port tube and magnetometer wiring inside the J-channel. Not fun for a guy with Meniere's Disease. I'll put some RTV in places where they exit the Z-channel.

While I was there I also attached the XM Radio antenna cable to the Garmin router.

Earlier I added more zip ties to the panel wiring as well as to the big cables that go to the Engine Control Unit.

I have to mix up some ProSeal because of those grommets popping out.

  Nov 10, 2022     Discovering errors - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I realized today that I didn't install the transponder. I went back and looked at the instructions which said to install the backplate must missed AND THE TRANSPONDER. So took the top skin off again and did that (and discovered a screw on the backplate I hadn't tightened). But in the process of moving the big cables around, those ProSealed grommets are still coming out of the hole. I really hate the split grommet method Van's uses. I'll have to research more but I'll probably have to put ProSeal on the interior side.

The instructions seem to show the top skin being off for the installation of the PFD (the GDU 460) so I took it off -- again!! -- and started putting the screws in but there's nothing to hold the top left screw. So I asked Van's support and got my "duh" moment when Eric reminded me that I'd added a single lug nutplate (you know, the ones that took three weeks to get?) to the top skin frame. But when I took the top skin off, of course the platenut in that spot disappears. Like I said, "Duh!" I feel like my cognitive skills were better when I started this project.

Anyway, I also installed the radio.

I'm trying to keep things from looking like a rat's nest back there but I'm not sure I'm succeeding.
Now, then, for the problem.

While removing screws in the panel skin -- a boring task -- I just sort of gazed around taking stock of things when I noticed that there are 4 open rivet holes in the center spar carry-through under the fuel tank. No clue how that happened. So I'll have to remove the fuel tank and squeeze those.

I don't know how I missed it but I went back to the plans (20iS-U_12iS page 5 & 6) and these require AN470AD4-8 rivets. I must've gotten distracted. Bad thing.

(Update: Went back and looked at the builder log entry for 12/12/17 and I had noted that I couldn't finish four rivets because they were in a big that was backordered from my fuselage shipment. There's no way those rivets are going to be around anywhere now so I'll have to order some more)

  Nov 10, 2022     Fitting panels - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Did some more cleaning up of wiring then began fitting panels. Added the ignition module, ELT remote (after buying a Lithium battery that supposedly will last 10 years) and the backup battery switch then screwed it to the frame. Looks good.

  Nov 07, 2022     Sealing grommets - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I took the top instrument panel skin back on, made sure all the connections I needed to make were made, then took off the electronic fuse box, mixed up some ProSeal (neat trick when it's 37 degrees), and sealed up the three grommets with wires to be sure any gasses don't come into the cabin. I also home it will help hold the split grommets in place because it's not a good system. When I built the RV-7A, I used some nice stainless steel firewall passthroughs but Van's has this more rinky dink method.

I also reinstalled covers in the baggage area, though I'm sure they'll come off again.

I worked some more on trying to get the wires out of the wing connectors so I can replace them. It's slow going. With the various tools I have for accomplishing it, I've been able to get only two out thusfar. I dropped a note to SteinAir to see what tool they use.

  Nov 06, 2022     Installed platenuts for instrument panel - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

The order for platenuts from Aircraft Spruce arrived two days after I ordered them (first class). Meanwhile, Van's finally got around to telling me the power supply was backordered - big shock. So I canceled that and told them just to send the hardware which they did. Advantage: Aircraft Spruce. Van's customer service is the worst I've seen since 2001.

It shouldn't take two hours to install four or five platenuts but it did because of the convoluted way they have to be match drilled. I marked the interference spot in the passenger-side panel, removed the plate and filed it away and then installed the platenuts after drilling out one hole to #27. Deburred, dimpled and riveted them in place. I'd already drilled out one platenut on the pilot side but needed to match drill for the platenuts there and I did that, deburred, dimpled, and riveted them in place.

I found one interesting thing. In the instruction for the right side for the Dual Garmin G3X, it says you need to countersink the attach holes - something like 47 of them I think. The nice silk screened and powder coated blanks, however, do not come countersunk so I suspect they're using different hardware to attach those. I'll have to check with Van's.

  Nov 02, 2022     More AOA work - (.3 hour) Category: Wings

I only had a few minutes at the hangar. I was picking up some tools I needed to work on some things at the EAA Chapter 54 clubhouse in Lake Elmo where I've just started a term as the "housing coordinator", an odd name for "janitor."

I looked around for the parts in the AOA kit and, yep, there they were right on the workbench. The discovery came just as I read that Van's has shipped $12 worth of the parts I'd just found. Just great! THAT order you fill right away but two single-lug platenuts are a bridge to far?

Anyway it turns out one of those parts -- a drill template ($3.50 at Van's!) - isn't needed as the hole is already drilled in the root rib (and every other rib) for the Angle of Attack. By the way, the instructions say to enlarge the hole using a step drill to 15/32" with nary an idea that there is NO 15/32" spot on a step drill. I'm sure the extra 1/32" won't be a problem.

A hard plastic piece needs to be cut and the soft plastic tubing is inserted into it 3/8". Then RTV is placed around the connection to seal it. So I did that.

Then I went to Lake Elmo

  Oct 31, 2022     More odds and ends - (1 hour)       Category: Wings

A week later and there's still no indication Van's is sending out my order that included four one-lug platenutes (they really have never really recovered from the disastrous problems of last year) and I need them to continue with the end of the avionics installation, so I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce, which I should have done in the first place.

In the meantime, the long #1 screwdriver showed up so I finished tightening the backplates on the transponder shell. But I can do no more for the moment.

So I did a little more on the AOA installation and decided to just route the tubing along the J channel to the second root rib and squirted RTV in a couple of rib passthroughs to prevent too much chafing. I still don't know if I'll be able to fly this plane but there's no way I'm going to fly it enough for it to be a problem for me. Someone else? I doubt it.

But I can't find any of the rest of the installation kit which includes the drill template for the ribs. Where that's disappeared to I have no idea. I ordered a couple of the items from Van's because I can't help wasting my time.

So now I'm turning my attention to FINALLY getting the two wing wiring connectors replaced. I have a bunch of keys to try to remove those pins but none seem to be working. So I'm going to study how those pins are inserted to see if I can figure it out.

So in other words, I didn't get squat done today.

  Oct 26, 2022     AOA Retrofit - (4 hours)       Category: Wings

SteinAir sent me the hardware necessary to install the connectors on the backs of the COM radio and transponder so I installed those. I had to order a long #1 tip screwdriver to finish the transponder though. I also made minor modifications to the wiring route so that wires aren't resting on the cooling fan. I added the GPS and XM Radio antenna and then I started on the AOA retrofit which is kinda rinky dink.

I drilled a hole in the wing and installed a rivet and then drove the mandrel out (mandrel broke on the first attempt but thy send two. Then I added plastic tubing and made a godawful mess with RTV trying to seal it in place. Not sure how to route the line going inboard. The instructions aren't very good and a drill template isn't to scale.

  Oct 23, 2022     Tidying up some wiring - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

There's not too much I can do until I get the right set of screws to add connectors for both the COM radio and XPNDR but I did a few steps. First, I confirmed the location of the AOA port hole in the left wing but will wait to work on it until someone can help me lift it onto the workbench.

One of the things I like about the Van's store is you can download all of the plans for my project and the pictures are in color and are a heck of a lot better than the black-and--white pictures in the printed KIS that they send you.

For example, Step 3 of 42NiS-16 says "Gather the WH-00134-1 near the inboard aft corner of the ES CPU Fan using the clamp as shown and install the clamp
onto the F-01202B-1 using the screw called out in Figure 1." OK, but there's a LOT of wires there coming from all sorts of different directions. Which ones go in the clamp exactly. Couldn't tell from the printed version but the color picture makes it more clear. The ones coming from the engine compartment do not. The ones coming from the GEA 24 do. Cool.

I bundled them up as instructed. It bothers me a bit that the wires from the GEA 24 are sitting roughly on the cooling fan but I guess I'll address that later. I also want to add the antenna cable and try to reduce that bend in the DSUB connection to the GPS-20A

I also drilled out the left side platenut (per 42NiS-17) and added a #27 hole (still have to do the right side). Single-lug platenuts go here and I don't have any. So I ordered some from Van's and also added a few mounting screws and other hardware called out in the coming steps, figuring I'll lose one or can't find one in the stash sent to me. Plus if Van's says install 19x screws; they give you 19 screws; no more, no less. So there's no room for error.

At the same time, I also ordered the Power Unit featured on the website, which will allow me to power up the electrical system without draining the battery. I figure I'm going to have learn all about the G3NX by sitting and playing and this will make that more functional.

  Oct 22, 2022     My kingdom for a screw!       Category: Avionics

It seems likely now that SteinAir forgot to include the assembling kit(s) for the backplates on at least the Garmin remote transponder. The backplate was tossed in a big but there should have been screws for the connectors. I searched everywhere and found none but at least I sorted out a bunch of hardware bags into the appropriate trays while waiting for the last camper rental of the season to return.

A person on Facebook is going to send me the screws so I can move forward. Had some communication with SteinAir but it was a Friday afternoon and I don't know what the resolution will be if any. What other kits need to be ordered? No clue.

  Oct 20, 2022     Installed transponder bracket - (.2 hour)       Category: Avionics

The little racheting screwdriver I ordered arrived so I rode the E-bike over to the hangar and it worked fine. It's the only way to tighten four screws that hold it into place. I assembled the 115-01879-00 GTR 200 Backplate and 37-pin d-sub connector labeled "COM" from the WH-00134-1 RV-12iS Garmin Common Harness (VFR) because it was already attached to the bracket.

I wanted to connect the d-sub connector labeled "XPNDR" and the BNC connector labeled "XPNDR" from the WH-00134-1 to the 011-02976-00 GTX 35R Backplate Assembly but I don't know what hardware to use. I'll consult the installation manual.

I connected the 9-pin d-sub and BNC connectors labeled "GPS" from the WH-00134-1 RV-12iS Garmin Common Harness (VFR) to the GPS 20A . And I connected the 15-pin d-sub connector labeled "BATT" from the WH-00134-1 to the IBBS-12V-3AH .

  Oct 17, 2022     Putting stuff back together and installing more avionics - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

I bought the optional CO2 detector a few months ago but the instructions made no sense as they referenced different installations but now that I've been installing some of the avionics, it made a little more sense. Basically it involved crimping on some DSub pins and mounting the unit. I finished installing the G20A and then added the backup battery. I ended up removing the battery harness from that big bushing and looping it around the frame I just installed. I like that better.

Still trying to figure out how to tighten those screws in the transponder bracket without being able to get a screwdriver in there.

I also remounted the ROTAX fuse box.

  Oct 16, 2022     Installed GEA 24 - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I mixed up a little ProSeal and put a thin coat on three holes where the GEA 24 Engine Indication System and F-00145 GEA24 Adapter Plate mount. This is a little strange because it mounts with four holes. Why doesn't the 4th hole get ProSeal? I wonder if it has something to do with grounding?

Anyway, after doing that I installed the four screw heads and tightened everything down. I had to remove the cooling fan assembly yet again.

Then I put ProSeal on all four of the screw heads on the forward side of the firewall.

I think I need to go back now and take a look at the CO2 detector installation as I think the instructions will make more sense to me now that I know what all the various Garmin numbers are. Might be a good time to go ahead and install it.

  Oct 15, 2022     Installed GTR 200 and GTX 35R racks       Category: Avionics

My order of hardware came in from Van's so I organized it and installed the racks, only to find I'd put the GTR 200 rack in upside down. Fixed that and put the GTX 35R racks but the screws are inaccessible to tighten. Will research.

  Oct 13, 2022     Resurfaced hangar ramp - (.1 hour)       Category: Workshop

Technically this has nothing to do with the RV-12iS but I thought you might be interested anyway. I haven't done any work on the plane as I'm waiting for parts from Van's. And when they came in, I was informed the company I hired was ready to resurface my hangar's ramp. I've been in a running debate about the poor condition of all of the ramps with the building partners but most of them don't want to spend any money. And why should they? They have no planes in their hangars; they just rent them out to people who put their planes in there that they never fly.

Anyway, the following narrative is from my report to the partners.

In August, I got an update from the company from their 2019 (I think) estimate they'd prepared for Jim and it was circulated to the partners on the East Side. I was the only one interested in having it done given the my RV-12iS project is moving right along now that the avionics package finally arrived after a one-year delay, and there is no way I'd ever start a plane on the east side what with all the stones and pebbles accumulating at the bottom of the ramps, and I'm getting too old to pull it over to the West Side (which has gotten pretty busy with the flight school and all.

They showed up with an army of trucks, equipment, and people precisely at 7 a.m. this morning. I would recommend these folks if/when you're ever interested in upgrading your properties too. They were good to work with and have now done a couple of projects on the field this year.

Here are some pictures. Hope you enjoy them.

This is the situation I was dealing with before. The asphalt was at the end of its useful life (especially for aircraft operations) and had opened up mall canyons where water had not only used the route to drain OUT, but also to get IN to the hangar. Everytime a plane taxied by, I'd get sandblasted inside the hangar.

Within the next year, potholes would be opening up. Not good. I'm not a big fan of spending money but the price is only going to go up and the problem wasn't going to go away.

Before

I'd already let Wipaire and a couple of neighbors know that Beechcraft would be relatively unusable for the morning. I probably should've told the flight school. I counted six dump trucks among the equipment and two bobcats plus the asphalt machine. We marked the area to be pulled up and replaced.

If you got the original estimate proposal, we were going to make the cut on the other side of a sizeable crack at Jim's hangar (to the right of mine in this photo) and past a developing pothole on the Pickett property because the estimator originally said if we didn't, the area between the new asphalt and that crack would immediately break up. Upon review today, I decided to go ahead and give Jim some free asphalt but felt the Pickett asphalt will not be damaged by having a newer, sexier asphalt neighbor.

Out with the old

I don't know how it is on the West Side but a sinkhole runs right down the building on the East Side, about 3 feet into each hangar. So that asphalt was gingerly removed. I was a little concerned with what we might find. It couldn't be utilities; electricity runs up top and there's no water, sewer, or gas lines. Interestingly, when I was taking on water during last year's spring melt, in addition to coming under the door, it was also bubbling up from the sinkhole crack, possibly from neighboring hangars; I don't know.

What did they find? Nothing, It was just a sinkhole. So they removed the asphalt and filled in the hole. I was a little nervous about this part of the operation because that's $100,000 worth of airplane parts still inside.

excavating

Once the old asphalt was gone, they brought in some more fill, leveled it, and then compacted it. By now there were about four different operations going on and these people were like a symphony; each playing a different part but cranking out a sum of the parts (OK, I mixed a metaphor there; just ignore it).

I wanted to be sure the grade was high inside the hangar (even higher than the existing asphalt) so that the water dripping off the roof wouldn't flow back inside. But I couldn't have it made too high because then it wouldn't meet the Pickett or Pederson asphalt quite right. My fingers are still crossed on this because the gap seal of the hangar door is also at the end of its useful life and the final grade was slightly high in the middle and slightly lower to the sides, to allow the water to run off in three directions. So there's a gap under the existing seal. I'll have to be sure to shovel thoroughly this winter because it may be awhile before I can get that door serviced (see below).

Grading

That's a big machine, right? And that machine is going right into my hangar and, yeah, that's a pristine set of RV-12iS wings sitting there. Like I said: nerve wracking.

Laying asphalt

As the machine operator and truck driver handled the laying of the asphalt; another start rolling it out. There were a lot of bodies moving and it looked like a few close calls; but ADS-B is not yet required of pavers.

Rolling

They had some asphalt left over so Wipaire asked them to throw some on three horrible potholes on his property and roll it out. I don't know how long it will last over there but he's got a lake when it rains now do anything helps. It still remains a mystery why Beechcraft and Aeronca weren't resurfaced when every other lane on the north side was resurfaced a few years ago and all the decision makers at the time are either in jail or working for MAC now.

Wipaire

And the final result

Inside out

The whole operation was wrapped up by 9:30

Looking north

And here's your Christmas present, Jim!

New walkway

Doug Beedon had installed a wooden "dam" across the front of the hangar when he owned it to keep water out (I fell pushing the RV-7A back in one November because it was slippery and I went down hard on the shoulder while trying to push over that dam and suddenly the arm was out of the socket; that wasn't fun), and I had to remove and dispose of that. So there's daylight now that I hope a new, beefier gap seal can resolve.

Gap seal

On that front, you may or may not know that Merle Marshall - the hangar door guy -- has retired and sold the business to his son, Jens Marshall and the company is now JFM Hangar. He can be reached at 612-503-6756 or jfmhangar@gmail.com and Marshall reports the man is super busy with hangar doors these days so, like everything else, some patience is required.

BTW, does anyone have a better idea for insulating their door besides Doug's method which consists of foam held in place by long runs of wooden strips bolted into the steel frame. In addition to being ugly, it's got to be adding hundreds of pounds to the door. Seem like there's a more elegant solution but I don't know what it is.

Stop by sometime and say "hello." I'll show you the RV-12iS project which is still stubbornly refusing to build itself.

  Oct 01, 2022     One step back - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I'm very late in the build so the number of parts, including hardware, is dwindling. In this session I found that the amount of hardware is dwindling too much.

I got started on building the GTR 200 AND GTX 35R RACKS (Section 42Nis page 12) but immediately ran into problems find the correct hardware. Where it goes, I don't know. But I didn't have enough AN507-632R8 crews or MS21042-06 nuts to complete the rack. So I jumped ahead to 43CiS_12iS, the dual G3X instructions and prepped up the flange doubler only to discover I have a shortage of MS21051-L06 nutplates. So I ordered one along with some additional hardware, bringing progress to a halt for now.

The order:
AN507C632R8 - Flat Head Screw (non structural)
6 $0.48
NAS1149FN632P Flat Washer
15 $0.60
MS21042-06 Metal Lock Nut
8 $2.80
AN525-10R8 Washer Head Screw
4 $0.80
NAS1149F0332P Flat Washer
20 $0.60
AN507C632R6 - Flat Head Screw (non structural)
8 $0.64
AN525-10R7 - Washer Head Screw
12 $2.40
MS21042-3 Metal Lock Nut

In writing this update, I have also realized that the dual G3X also requires two MS21051-L06 to be installed in the upper flange. Do I REALLY want to put yet another order in for just two stinking nutplates? I do not. Anybody got a couple?

  Sep 30, 2022     Building supports for COM radio - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I haven't been out to the hangar for a few days because we have had visitors at the house, and I also had to do a thorough cleaning of the camper when it came back from a rental in a disgusting state, but I took a few minutes to rivet in the forward support brackets for the COM radio, and also added the snap bushing for the wiring supports on the left and right side. Not sure all the wires I ran through them are supposed to go through them but we'll see.

Time to start moving some of the avionics out to the hangar.

  Sep 25, 2022     ProSealed rivet heads - (.5 hour) Category: Avionics

Per KIS Section 42NiS-11 Step 4, I mixed up some ProSeal and lightly covered the rivet and screw heads on the forward side of the firewall.

  Sep 23, 2022     Finished firewall drilling - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

After a dentist appointment for some sensitive teeth, went back out to the hangar with a revised strategy for drilling - being even MORE careful to turn the drill slowly. Result: not much difference. Funny thing: the three or four brand new #30 drill bits still took about 15 minutes per hole. But the old Harbor Freight bits for the #11 match drill instruction took a little over a minute and made a decently round hole. In any event, the job got done.

Then I riveted the F-00055-L-1 & -R-1 GTR 200 Support Brackets and the F-00054-L & -R to the F-01202B-1 Panel Base and I was sure to place the manufactured rivet heads below the subpanel shelf, but then I realized I'd again made the mistake that *I* was the one manufacturing the head (no, Bob, that's the "shop head"), so I drilled them all out and installed them correctly.

I riveted the F-00074-L-1 & -R-1 Garmin Xpndr Firewall Brackets to the F-01201A-1 Firewall Top, placing the manufactured rivet heads on the forward side of the F-01201A-1. So I got it right that time.

Access is pretty limited in the front so I had to pull some wires back around the GPS antenna shelf, which caused the two split rubber grommets to fall out. Putting those back was a blast.

Next time I'm out at the hangar, I'll mix up some ProSeal to cover the rivet heads.

I wonder if it's OK to reinstall the fuse box.

  Sep 22, 2022     Firewall drilling - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

Had to get to the hangar early for a camper rental dispatch so did some more work with the drill guides for the G3X. I took the top skin off for access, drilled out three rivets on the battery cage, attached a drill guide there and match drilled #30 holes.

Moving over to the F-00074-L-1 DRILL GUIDE, progress was much slower. I got one or two holes drilled - eventually -- but the work hardened and progress was non-existent. I got frustrated so gave up for the session.

  Sep 20, 2022     Prepped more G3X pieces - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

The day started with a nice surprise as Dave Hirschmann of AOPA stopped by. He's in town to get checked out in Mark Baker's Caravan so I assume he's going to make a ferry flight.

Otherwise I added nutplates to the F-00054 brackets then cut out the drill guides for the firewall piece. I had to take the Rotax fuse box off the firewall and also removed one of the fans from the subpanel floor in order to get at some holes that are going to be match drilled. The F-00074-L drill guide didn't fit quite right so I had to modify it a bit. I'm sending Van's support a note to be sure I've got it in the right spot.

  Sep 18, 2022     Prepped G3X brackets       Category: Avionics

I finished riveting the doubler to the instrument panel flange (I really should work on the second one but that's in a different section) and then dug out various brackets needed for the fireall. This mostly consisted of cutting to separate and filing/deburring, countersinking, and attaching nutplates. This included the firewall bracket, the transponder bracket and the F-00054 brackets.

I've decided not to replace the center console. Too much can go wrong detaching the various cables and it looks fine as is.

  Sep 18, 2022     Added instrument panel doubler - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

It doesn't look like the temperature is going to warm enough to drill the rear window until next year so I've circled back to continue the Section 42NiS installation of the Garmin G3X touch display. The instrument panels are backordered and Van's reported that as o 9/1, they are "overdue." Yeah, no kidding.

I didn't do a lot -- didn't have time because of grandparent duty -- but I match drilled F-00063 flange doubler, countersunk the appropriate rivet holes and clecoed the nutplates on. But riveting will have to wait.

  Sep 16, 2022     Moved autopilot servo ground wire - (.2 hour) Category: Avionics

I only had a few minutes because people were coming to pick up the camper for the weekend but I moved that pitch server ground wire from the rib to under the nut on the servo itself as Van's recommended.

  Sep 15, 2022     Installed autopilot pitch servo - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

First an update on installation of the roll servo and the questions I had, which have been answered by Eric Rushting at Van's. The plans show a zip tie through the lightening hole in the servo bracket. That keeps it off the fuel shutoff valve. Also the ground wire is attached on the nut side of the most aft bolt on the left side. I tried getting a little more slack out of the harness but it's pretty tight. Something to keep an eye on.

Moving on to the pitch servo, it's a tad more straightforward, at least insofar as getting the DSUB connector through a slot. I mounted the servo after attaching the pushrod to it, then attached the push rod to the the tab on the control column. All good. I didn't put torque wrenches on most things but I pretty much know what 25 inch pounds feels like.

Earlier in the avionics instruction, it said to attach the ground wire to a rib. In this section, however, it says to attach it to a screw and nut on the servo. I emailed Van's support for clarification as I'd already attached it to the more outboard rib.

I added the protection on the cutout where the dsub went through the rib but I really don't like how it sits. I think I'll add a bunch of RTV there.

The section in the instructions notes how critical the autopilot disconnect switch is but apparently the backordered silk-screened instrument panel pieces includes the center console which I had installed. So I'm debating taking that out which will require a fair amount of work since I already installed the control cables. That includes the long one to the fuel shutoff and the short one to the engine throttle. Do I really want to do that just to make the center console pretty? Probably but I don't want to do it right now. And, frankly, I may not do it at all.

[Update] From Tony Kirk at Van's:

Hi Bob,
L6341 is a ground wire for the wingtip lights on a Dynon system. If you are installing a Garmin system you won't have this wire.
I would install the servo ground as per 44BiS/U-04. It probably doesn't really matter though.
Thanks,Hi Bob, L6341 is a ground wire for the wingtip lights on a Dynon system. If you are installing a Garmin system you won't have this wire.I would install the servo ground as per 44BiS/U-04. It probably doesn't really matter though.

  Sep 14, 2022     Installed autopilot roll servo - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

The Garmin roll servo for the autopilot was installed according to the KIS, but I noticed a few things:

1) there's a ground wire with a ring terminal . Didn't see it mentioned in the KIS.
2) The wiring pretty much sits on the fuel shutoff valve mechanism. That needs to be protected.
3) The servo comes with a safety bracket kit. Nothing in the KIS about it.

Have submitted to Van's.

  Sep 12, 2022     Autopilot pushrods - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

With the installation of the rear window on hold, possibly until next summer, I've moved on to other things that need doing and this seems like a good time to install the servos for the dual axis autopilot (Section 44BiS). I started by cutting the F-1291 Roll Servo Pushrod and the F-1292 Pitch Servo Pushrod from AT6-058X5/16 Tube (4 11/16" and 4 1/2"), then drilled and tapped both ends of each with a #3 drill bit and a 1/4-28 tap.

I then assembled the F-1291 Roll Servo Pushrod and hardware and F-1292 Pitch Servo Pushrod hardware.

  Sep 09, 2022     Drilling of rear window aborted - (1 hour)       Category: Finishing

I had it all going: Carolie agreed to come to the hangar to help, the temperature had reached 82 degrees by noon, and I was ready to go. I used electrical tape offset from the skins by about 1/8" (more or less). I had diagrammed what order holes would be drilled and what size. And I had marked the location of holes to be drilled through the acrylic and into the rollbar.

Then I grabbed all the tools and reviewed Section 5 in the KIS, in order to have it clear in my mind exactly what we were going to do.

That's when I read the part that the "plexi bits" should not be used to ENLARGE holes once drilled. And all the holes would need to be enlarged. Van's recommends a step drill (not possible for the #36 holes) or a reamer, which I do not have.

I also had pulled out some plexi bits I bought last year that didn't have the sizes stamped on them. What size are they? Later, I would figure it out after consulting the packing slip (1 @27 and 2 #36s and 2 #40s). But by then, I still didn't have reamers which I ordered at one of those "minimum $50 order" sites (final order #75). And while I was at it I ordered cutoff disks and mandrel from Cleaveland Tools.

So we stood down and a cold front has now swept through. It might reach 90 next week on Thursday, but I've got a Twins game that evening.

Maybe this will wait until next summer. We'll see.

No shortcuts here. We do everything by the book.

  Sep 07, 2022     Fitting of rear window - (4 hours)       Category: Finishing

A hot day so did more fitting and measuring for the rear window after buying two more spring clamps to help hold it in place. I made many measurements to try to get things as even as I could and marked where the canopy meets the F-1232B-L & -R rollbar brace brackets and then started removing material after measuring the distances between the aft edge of the F-1231A-FL & -FR Roll Bar Frames. In my case it was about 5/32". This is the part where I messed up a year ago, causing me to order a new window, and it's VERY hard to get that alignment up front AND maintain the 5/16" edge distance on two screw holes immediately behind where you remove material. And I'm not sure I did this time either. If I did, it's VERY close. You're trying to keep the edge of the canopy from hitting the bracket while maintaining that edge distance AND aligning that front section as called for. Van's really should consider a different hole pattern here.

Anyway, I got everything lined up and pulled the canopy slightly forward of those brackets for a pretty perfect measurement up front, although eventually I'm going to sand that forward edge after removing material.

The canopy wants to slide around, especially when you clamp the sides in place to push up the rear part of the window. I got it mostly OK; not perfect, though, which is what I was going for.

It will be hot again tomorrow, so I'll try drilling. Carolie will come over for a few hours in the daytime to hold the wood block as I drill. And old friend Heather (who is not actually old) will stop by in the evening. The sequence of drilling demands care.

I've got to doublecheck to make sure I have all the correctly sized drill bits for plastic.

#40
#30
#36
#27

  Sep 06, 2022     Installed gear leg covers. Started fit of rear window - (2 hours)       Category: Finishing

I haven't done much at the hangar because I've been letting the ProSeal on the gear leg covers cure. But I installed them in this session. Tight fit but does the job. It turn out I did have the mirror version of the left one correct. Also I found the F-12105A that was missing (I just made a new one). It was in one of the trays. I tossed it in the scrap metal box.

I then started fitting the rear window by calculating the midpoint and drawing a line and lining it up with rivet lines. I didn't do much more than that but a cursory series of measurements tells me it's pretty close to where I want it.

My order of 200 LP4-3 pop rivets came in. Hard to believe I've gone through two boxes of them.

  Aug 30, 2022     More gear leg covers. This time with ProSeal - (2 hours)       Category: Finishing

I used the templates provided on Page 38iS/U-25 to cut out two F-01275Js and two F-12105Bs, the rubber seals. I drilled the holes, then machine countersunk the nutplate attach rivet holes in the F-12105A, then attached the nutplates. I repeated for the second F-12105A placing the nutplates on the opposite side.

One thing. I only had one F-12105A so I made a second one out of some scrap aluminum.

I used fuel tank sealant to bond the F-01275J to the F-01275H-L to produce the Bottom Left Main Gear Seal Assembly. I then bonded the F-12105B to the F-12105A to produce the Top Left Main Gear Assembly.

I made the remaining parts to produce mirrored versions for the other side. I'm pretty sure I got one or both wrong. We'll see after the ProSeal cures.

  Aug 28, 2022     Gear leg cover prep and fit - (.5 hour)       Category: Finishing

One of the things that's interesting about the RV-12iS instructions compared to the old RV-7A book is few things have a name anymore. Take this example from 38iS/U-10:

"Slide the WD-01214-L-1 & -R-1 through the F-01273-L-1 & -R-1, and attach them to the WD-1215-L & -R as shown"

Everything is a number.

Here's the next step.

"Separate the F-01275G-1 into left and right parts by removing the shaded areas shown in Figure 2."

Sure. But what the heck is it? Well, it's a cover that goes underneath the gear leg. "Gear leg cover" would work. More and more I find myself having to look up what numbers are.

Take the next step for example:

"Rivet the F-01275G-L-1 to the F-01273-L-1, and F-01276-1 using the rivets called out in Figure 3. The bent flange is positioned on top of the F-01276-1."

Personally, I'd rather "rivet the gear leg cover. to the side skins. Slide the gear leg cover under the bottom skin."

But that's just me.

Anyway I did that today.

  Aug 27, 2022     Attached flaperon controls - (.3 hour)       Category: Finishing

I slid the WD-01214-L-1 & -R-1 (which has been sitting under my workbench for a couple of years) through the F-01273-L-1 & -R-1, and attach them to the WD-1215-L & -R. I torqued the _bolt_ down to about 27 inch pounds and it didn't feel like there were any threads showing on the nut and it's impossible to get in there to see with the naked eye, so I took several photographs of both sides and confirmed there are threads showing.

I want to get started on that rear window but it's cooled down and I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea to wait until next summer. We'll see. Certainly for the canopy.

I'm also thinking I should install the servos for the autopilot before continuing as there's a good chance I'll have to remove stuff I'm just putting together.

  Aug 25, 2022     Catastrophe averted - (5 hours)       Category: Finishing

I have one of the older tailcones and in those, the inspection hole for the fuel valve area (here you can drain and check for water) is not precut; you have to do it yourself with a template and some dimensions Van's supplies. I did that last winter and added nutplates in the proper location. While riveting the tailcone to the fuselage and, specifically, the pair of lines of rivets on the bottom, I noticed one of the nutplate was DIRECTLY below the fuel line; possibly within 1/16" of an inch. Surely a screw there would puncture the line and the vibration alone with the nutplate would do the same. Then the engine stop. Shocking.

So I drilled out the nutplate. I couldn't do a standard rivet removal because to tap the rivet out of the hole after the rivet broke off would make the nutplate contact the fuel line. I put a piece of scrap between the nutplate and fuel line and then drilled the #40 rivets to a #30 hole so as to remove all of the rivet. Yes I have three empty holes now - which will be covered by the inspection plate -- but it sure beats an emergency landing. I'll add another nutplate .

Meanwhile, I started the day by match drilling the two holes in each F-01207C-L-1 & -R-1 Baggage Bulkhead into the F-1284-L & -R Shear Clips then riveted them on both sides.

Then I Clecoed the F-01273-L-1 in place and repeated and mirror for the F-01273-R-1.

I Final-Drilled #19 the two holes in the F-01270A-1 and underlying F-01270-L-1 that are called out and repeated for the right side.

And finally -- and this took all day -- I riveted in place the F-01273-L-1 & -R-1 using the rivets called out and riveted all remaining open holes associated with joining the tailcone to the fuselage .

There are only a few LP4--3 rivets left but I think that's just about it for the airframe.

  Aug 24, 2022     Riveted top skins - (4 hours)       Category: Finishing

Four hours of boring riveted and getting things lined up right. Because of primer -- I think -- i had to use a #30 reamer to clean out the holes but it came out fine. I was a little concerned about the center row of rivets at the very top because the holes in the underlying rollbar brace are quite large. I checked to confirm but I suspected the reason is it's not riveted to the rollbar brace but the holes allow the unpulled rivet to go in.

  Aug 23, 2022     Prepped top baggage skins - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

Given how much downtime I had over the year waiting for the avionics kit, wouldn't you think I would've used that time to prep and prime the F-01277-L-1 & -R-1 top skins that go over the baggage compartment attach to the tail cone? Of course you would and, of course, you would be wrong. So I deburred both skins, finished off the edges and then cleaned and primed the inside portion.

I just couldn't get the gun settings right for a smooth finish -- too much pressure I think -- so the surface is "sandy." But then I decided I like that because it should deaden the light and prevent any glare.

The holes don't quite line up on the right side F-01277 rollbar brace and I'm not sure why. I get a little pillowing when clecoing that little "triangle." So I'm going to just open up some of those holes a bit to flatten it out better.

  Aug 22, 2022     Added chafing prevention to ADS-B IN antenna - (.3 hour) Category: Avionics

I stopped at the hangar on the way home from a long day at Target Field just to add a dab of blue RTV to the chafing protection of the ADS-B IN antenna cable and zip tie it to the stiffener. Of course it was ugly crawling in and out with oozing blue RTV on my fingers and getting it on my eyebrows (!) and fingers. It didn't hold the plastic stiffener liner in place very well and kind of looks like a murder took place.

  Aug 19, 2022     Installed ADS-B IN router - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I riveted the ADS-B unit bracket in place (pretty cramped in there so I put a fan in the tailcone). Then attached the unit and connected the D-SUB connector. I drilled a 1/2" hole 2.5" forward of the rivet line on the bulkhead and installed the rod antenna. Got it pretty tight but probably need a second person to hold a wrench on there sometime. I ran the antenna wire into the J-stiffener channel and connected to the ADS-B IN port. I need to get some blue RTV to glue the cat channel in place for chafing protection. Once that is done, all steps in Section 53 will have been completed.

I also found the adhesive velcro to went back to the final steps of Section 42 (Common) and attached the holder for the spare fuses. That officially concluded everything I had to do in Section 42 (Common) although I'll doublecheck to be sure.

  Aug 17, 2022     Reinstalled fuel cutoff cable; Began ADS-B/XM installation - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I tightened the nuts at both ends of the fuel shutoff cable, then reinstalled the connection, making sure the cutoff lever was 1/4" above the deck, confirmed the full rate of travel back at the valve then tightened the allen nuts. The instructions say to tighten the bottom first then evaluate full range of travel. You can't do that because the B nut on a fuel line is in the way. So I had to do the top first, move it, then the bottom.

After that I added nutplates to the ADS-B IN/XM receiver bracket, mounted it (I had to drill out one rivet on the baggage bulkhead, and match drilled four vertical holes. I'll rivet it in place later in the week.

  Aug 16, 2022     Routed new fuel valve cable - (.5 hour)       Category: Finishing

I probably could have used the old cable but I was unsure of whether it was significantly damaged when it came apart the other day but probably doesn't cut it. So the new one came and I threaded it back to the tailcone. Haven't made the connection yet. It travels, as near as I can tell, in the same bushings that the air data tubing does so I'm a little concerned about chafing, particularly where it exits the baggage bulkhead and loops around the fuel pump. We'll see.

  Aug 14, 2022     Connected ADHRS - (1.5 hours)       Category: Finishing

I connected the 9-pin connector to the GMU 11 magnetometer now that the tail is on. Then trimmed the static tube and connected it and the AOA tubing to the GSU 25 and then measured and cut the remnant static line to make the "Garmin aft pitot tub" and ran that to the front of the plane. I think I'll probably have to shorten the static line because it seems too long right now but I can do that later. I should probably mount the ADS-B IN receiver.

  Aug 13, 2022     Tail cone goes on       Category: Finishing

At this point, there were too many things that depended on the tail cone to be in place to ignore any longer. There was a growing chance that something would be done incorrectly or not at all. So Carolie came over to the hangar and she did the wiggling while I made sure the skins slipped under the baggage bulkhead but above the bottom and side skins. Easy because I test fit everything last September.

I then fit the two seat belt brackets and riveted them in place, making sure to capture the spine of the baggage bulkhead with the two forward holes on each side.

  Aug 12, 2022     It's time to put tailcone on - (.5 hour)       Category: Avionics

I brought the GSU 25 out to the hangar and installed the fittings but the directions then tell you how to snake three separate lines -- AOA, static, and pitot. First, I found that when I made an AOA line weeks ago, I actually had already made one (a retrofit came with the avionics kit so I must've made one in the instructions when working on the fuselage. Who knows?). There were also confusing instructions about the pitot and the "aft garmin" line being born from cutting the former. That's a clear "time out" signal for me. I need to connect things and see what goes where so it's time to put that tailcone on.

Yes, I'll be doing some work in a confined space (ADS-B installation, for example) but putting the tailcone on now gives me a good frame of reference for moving forward rather than working around things being apart.

  Aug 10, 2022     Not much of anything - (.1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I looked around in the closet where I'm storing the avionics for the GSU 25 to no avail. Went out to the hangar (basically to catch a bus into St. Paul to have lunch with a friend) then looked at the KIS to see if there was anything I could do without the GSU 25 and the answer is "not much". So I added an tie-wrap standoff to the baggage bulkhead.

Nick at SteinAir had given me a hint as to what the box looked like with the GSU 25 and once he did, I knew were to look. So I pulled stuff out of the closet near where I would have put the thing and there it was. It had fallen behind something else.

  Aug 09, 2022     Installing equipment in tailcone - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I found a cable that does essentially the same thing as what is depicted in the Van's KIS figure regarding the ELT remote cable connection; it just isn't exactly as depicted. So I made that connection. Also installed the GMU 11 (magnetometer) on its bracket and installed the unit on the bracket in the tailcone. I did not connect the DSUB connector. I'll crawl back in there to do that once the tailcone is attached.

I have not yet found the GSU 25 -- ADAHRS -- in my stack of boxes that I've kept at home (until the new insurance kicks in at the hangar in a couple of weeks; I raised the value to $90,000) . I'll keep looking.

  Aug 08, 2022     Finished installing wiring bushings - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

Another one-step-forward-one-step-back day. I finished installing the bushings on the wires running aft. I can't say it was the most fun I've ever had. I had to disconnect the cable to the fuel shut-off valve in order to -- I thought -- route that through the bushings . Turns out, apparently, it doesn't go through the bushings at the front. Anyway, while trying to figure out why the cable was no so stiff when I attempted to move it, I apparently pulled the thing out of its seat up front and couldn't get it to budge. So I took the whole thing off. Still couldn't get it to budge. Ordered a new one from Van's -- $145 -- then I got it to work. Oh well. Better to have a new cable, I guess.

The instructions said to connect ELT remote cable to an ELT audio cable and provided a really poor picture that doesn't seem to reflect my harness. So I have to do some research on that.

Also, I need to see how everything is secured going through the baggage bulkhead.

Other than finding some adhesive velcro, reinstalling the fuel tank, and figuring out that ELT connection, Section 42 (common electrical) is more or less complete.

  Aug 07, 2022     Installing bushings - (.7 hour)       Category: Avionics

I rode the new E-bike out to the hangar and it was a little later than I thought because I needed to be back home in an hour to help take care of Dex. So I started installing bushings in the wiring. How hard could that be? Hard. Really hard to get all the wires in the slit bushing and then get the bushing into the bushing brackets. I ended up doing four bushings in 45 minutes. It'll get easier as I work my way back in the fuselage as there are fewer and fewer wires.

  Aug 03, 2022     Crimped on connectors. Added Bushing brackets - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Back at it after 5 days at Oshkosh and a few Twins game. Rode the new E-bike over to the hangar. Sweet! Bushings came from Van's for that cabin/rollbar lighting and canopy switch. $5 for a 12 cent bushing. Crimped on the connectors that came from SteinAir to the wing pin switches and did a little research to be sure I got them right. Then prepped and riveted on the four brackets that will hold the bushings/wires on the forward ribs.

At Oshkosh, bought cobalt drill bits at Aircraft Tool Suply ($14)
Bought logbooks ($20)

  Jul 24, 2022     Connected ELT, ran cockpit lighting wire - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

The mystery ELT wire was solved when I removed the unit and found that it has been buried underneath it. So I connected the wire to the harness and reinstalled, then used a couple of tie wraps to secure all of the extra wire to the harness.

The lighting wire presented another mystery. First, I drilled a #12 on the underside of the rollbar, then ran the two wires (a white one and purple/brown one; L6028 (YEL/PRP) and GARMIN: F7139 (WHT)] But the plans say there's a twisted pair with L6029 (YEL/GRN). I have no idea where that one is but it's not in the harness as near as I can tell. I'll figure it out after Oshkosh.

And I'll have time to study because the plans call for a snap bushing -- SB 187-2 -- which appears to have been shipped with the finishing kit. I found the bag it is alleged to have come in. No snap bushing. Do I REALLY want to pay shipping to have one stinking snap bushing sent from Van'. No, I do not. I'll look for one at Oshkosh. But I can't do any more work on 42MiS/U-27 until these issues are resolved.

  Jul 23, 2022     ELT, Fuel pumps, ADHRS et al connections - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

We're nearing the end of the journey to the aft portion of the plane in this portion of making connections from the wiring harness.

Routed the Roll Servo Connector through the F-01206H-L-1. Secured the connector clear of flight controls with a tie-wrap until the optional autopilot is installed.

Routed the ADAHRS connectors through the F-01206H-L-1 .

Routed the Fuel Pump 1, Fuel Pump 2, Fuel Pressure Sensor, and Magnetometer (Garmin) connectors through the F-1207C-L and into the tailcone. I notice I seem to have a LOT of trim wire.

Removed the tape covering the aft-facing port on the FLF-00013 adapter, then installed the fuel pressure sensor and then connected the fuel pressure sensor connector.

Installed the fuel pump power connectors and took pictures and doublechecked to be sure I got the right wires to the correct fuel pump.

Routed the magnetometer wire into the tailcone and temporarily secured with tie wraps. One of these days, I'll get some help to permanently install the tail cone.

Routed the right spar pin switch, the cabin light, and canopy latch switch wiring as shown in Figure 1 on 42MiS/U-26. Found out why the aft hole is used heere. The fuel vent line will pass through the forward hole. Used a tie-wrap to secure the wires and the ELT antenna cable to the ES-00301 on the F-01223-L-1.

Didn't connect the W6075 (BRN/BLU) spar pin switch wire spade terminal to the outboard "COM" spade of the ES E22-50K-1 yet because the new spade terminals are due from SteinAir on Monday.

Route the E-04.10.5 ELT Remote Cable to the ELT Audio Alert following the path of the Main Harness down the right side of the aircraft. Connected the male RJ-11 connector on the ELT Remote Cable to the ELT Audio Alert. I couldn't find the ELT DIN connector that I'm supposed to connect together with the wire/connector coming down from the harness but now that I think of it, it's probably in the ELT box.

Routed the ADS-B IN Connector through the F-1206A-1 and F-1207C-R, and secured the wires to the ES-00301 on the F-01206A-1.

  Jul 22, 2022     Snap bushings and wire routing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

I was able to last at the hangar until the temperature hit 92. I routed the fuel sender wiring on the left side and secured the wires loosely (for now) to the tie clips I riveted on yesterday. I cut the terminals off the spar pin wires to get them through the snap bushings I'd mistakenly put on. SteinAir order is on the way and I'll crimp new terminals back on.

On the right side, it's interesting to me that the wiring comes up through the aft hole, not the forward hole (like on the left side) of the baggage floor. I wonder why? In the process of routing the spar pin wire, I notice I'd neglected to enlarge the hole (to 5/16") just aft of the microswitch. I had to take the switch off to get in there with a step drill. Then installed snap bushings. I'd already cut the terminals off like on the left side and will also crimp new ones on later.

I installed all the snap bushings per 42MiS/U-23 Step 6.

Secured the spar pin switch and fuel sender wiring to the ES-00301 on the left side. Pretty loose there so I'll probably add a dollop of blue RTV.

And I routed the COM Antenna Coax Cable through the center section bulkhead and attached the COM BNC Connector to the AV-00008 COM Antenna per 42MiS/U-24 Step 2. I'll keep an eye on possible interference there with a brake line.

  Jul 21, 2022     Two steps forward. One back - (.5 hour)       Category: Avionics

It's like the stock market these days. You have a really good day and the odds are you'll get hammered the next. I continued on today by drilling out two rivets in the rollbar brace and attaching tie wrap clips and reriveting, then snaking the fuel sender signal wires up through the floor board. But the two wires for the spar pin alarm, with connectors crimped on, wouldn't go through the snap bushings. Why the hell did I put those snap bushings in. Rather than fight to get them out of the holes, I ordered new connectors from SteinAir and, probably after Oshkosh, I'll cut the old ones off, run the wires, and crimp new ones on.

  Jul 20, 2022     Flap motor wiring - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

A good, long session (for me, anyway) at the hangar today. I did some more doublechecking and noticed the wing wiring connector differences so I figured out which way is up on both sides. Also ordered new connectors to replace the ones on the wing. They got damaged in installation and I figured I might as well do them right.

So I screwed the connector brackets on after installing the O-ring in the AOA housing and then prepped up the covers on both sides. I will wait until later to add Loctite to the screws. I secured all wires to the headsets and wing roots to the appropriate standoff on both sides. In installed the HW-00004 standoff for flap wires.

I disconnected the ES SW K2-AGPAAAAA Flap Switch from the harness, then installed the ES SW-807038-1 Switch Gasket and ES SW K2-AGPAAAAA onto the F-01246 Tunnel Cover. Reconnected the spade terminals once the switch was installed.

I connected the ground ring terminal to the seat rib.

I crimped on connectors to the flap power and signal wires as instructed then connected them to the flap power switch. I secured the wires with tie wraps. I couldn't tie wrap the extra wire length to the flap motor because I couldn't get a tie wrap under it. I'll do that later.

I installed the USB Dual Panel Jack onto the F-12101 and connected the wires to the appropriate spade connectors as shown in Section A-A. I then reinstall the F-12101 tunnel cover.

  Jul 20, 2022     Installed headphone jack and wing connectors - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

The SteinAir shipment arrived (half of it anyway) with the isolating washers so I installed the pilot and co-pilot headphone jacks couldn't get them very tight using just finger (tough to access) so I'll look at getting a wrench in there. I was able to find an extra set of step isolating washers and isolating washer in my electrical "junk box" from the RV-7A project.

Then I attached the wing connectors to the left and right side although there is no guidance on orientation. I need to replace the corresponding wing root connectors (the male tabs broke off when fitting the wings) so I'll just make sure they correspond pin number to pin numbers.

(Update: Bought new wing connectors)

  Jul 19, 2022     Connections to stick grip, installed OAT - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Stein is sending isolator washers for the headphone jacks but they won't be here until Thursday so I moved on a bit in Section 42, installing the Garmin OAT probe and attaching its ground wire. I installed the wire standoffs on both sides (Per 42MiS/U-19 Step 4), connected the Pilot Stick Grip connectors through the d-sub shaped cutout in the F-01215-R-1 Seat Rib, Secured the left wingroot and pilot stick grip ground ring terminals to the F-01215-R-1 and L-1. I also secured the pitch servo connector with a tie-wrap until the Autopilot System is installed. And, finally, I tapped 8-32 the four holes in the F-00034A and F-00034-R Wing Electrical Brackets as shown in Figure 1 on 42MiS/U-20. I then brought them home for Alumiprepping and Alodining.

The CO2 system showed up. Instructions look pretty bad but I'll get around to installing it shortly.

  Jul 15, 2022     Reinstalled fuel boost pumps (and more)       Category: Service B's

While we were on vacation, Lockwood Aviation completed the replacement of the electrical pumps per the Service Bulletin and sent it back so I reinstalled it today. I notice I had neglected the two screws in the baggage floor-to-bulkhead when I'd first installed it and so I installed those for a total of 6x.

I then confirmed that the pitch and roll servo connector labels were switched and changed the labels.

I connected the DSUB connectors for the stick grip on each side, riveted in the standoffs in the ribs on each side and connected the stick grip local ground wires to the ribs on each side.

I intended to install the headset jacks but I found that the step isolator and isolator washers for all four were missing so Nick at SteinAir is going to drop a couple of sets in the mail.

Slow going.

  Jul 13, 2022     Finished routing main harness - (.2 hour)       Category: Avionics

I've returned from two weeks vacation in Vermont, working some Twins games and had a few minutes after today's game so stopped by the hangar to route the the co-pilot side wiring harness. Nothing connected yet.

I've also determined the problem with the autopilot connector is the labels on the connector housing was reversed.

Lockwood Aviation sent the replaced fuel pumps and the assembly back. I made a record of their serial number for future reference.

  Jun 25, 2022     Routed wires on the pilot side - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

Pulling the wiring harness through all the small cutouts in the aluminum. Had to stop the other day because my hand was bleeding all over the place. Used gloves today and finished the routing on the pilot side before vacation.

The only problem I had was the connector labeled "pitch" in the instructions is labeled "roll" on the connector for the autopilot. Mislabeled connectors? Message in to Van's

  Jun 22, 2022     Began routing wires aft - (1 hour)       Category: Service B's

Spent some time examining the various drawings showing routing of the wires and when they made sense, I started routing things but I had to quit because I was bleeding too much from all the scrapes from reaching into lightening holes etc.

I also sent the entire boost pump unit to Lockwood Aviation for replacement of the fuel pumps per the service bulletin from ROTAX.

  Jun 21, 2022     GPS/XM wires routed - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Because it's so hot, I can only work in the hangar for about an hour in the morning, but today I routed the GPS and XM coax through the opening on the right side of the firewall, attached the cover plate, and then added the modified grommet. They're a pretty big pain in the neck and I doubt their ability to withstand vibration, even with the ProSeal around it but we'll see.

I looked at routing the fuselage wiring but noticed I have to disconnect the autopilot switch because of the way the wires were routed and I decided to do that later.

I also attached the battery fault wire (those connectors do not like each other and zip tide that wire along with the coax to the bit Rotax ECU wires for stability.

Hearts are heavy here because longtime companion Lucie is not doing well and the end may be near

  Jun 20, 2022     Secured fuse block wiring - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I added two Adel clamps to secure all wires to the engine mount. Glad to have the Adel clamping tool I bought when I was building the RV-7A. It allowed to line up the holes so I could safety wire each closed, which made it much easier to get the screw and nut in place to hold them both. Then I zip tied the wires for additional stability and adjusted the grommet. I still need to mix up some ProSeal to seal the gaps in the grommet.

  Jun 18, 2022     Attached Generator A grounds - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Tony Kirk at Van's suggested just taking the Rotax fuse box off the firewall to get at the impossible-to-reach bottom part where the Generator A ground wires get attached. There are several lugs under there so I looked up which block I should use in the Rotax installation manual, but I also saw that all the ground lugs on both the A and B are interconnected with the other. As long as you don't mix A and B I'm good.

Then I reinstalled the fuse box.

  Jun 17, 2022     Connected relay wires - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Still working on the bundle that comes through the firewall. Secured three wires to the B ground on the fuse box.

Connected the starter relay wires along with the starter to master relay wire. Also added the relay wire to the master solenoid.

I didn't connect the A Grounds because access is impossible . Tony Kirk at Vans suggests just taking the fuse box off.

I also slid a modified grommet per the instructions but will wait to ProSeal the gaps until all the wires are connected.

  Jun 16, 2022     Connected G3x wires to fuse box - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Online research revealed the pink heat shrink can come off the connectors. Apparently it's there in the event people fully connected the battery. I have no idea why anyone would connect a battery before the avionics wiring was run but there you go.

I also spent too much time looking for wire K6284. You get spoiled thinking all the wires you need are in the main harness but it's actually a wire found in the AV6000 bag. I couldn't tell what terminal those wires connect to (other than the one ground wire that's attached under the brake reservoir hardware) so it's back to more online research.
And finally, while looking at the routing of K7125 --- the starter relay wire -- I discovered I did not run WH-P154 from the starter relay to the master solenoid. So that's now added to the list.

  Jun 15, 2022     Rerouting wires - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

I've now figured out that most of the wires have to go up to the subpanel so I rerouted everything.

I have COVID, so the hangar seemed like a good place to isolate today as I worked on 42MiS/U-13. I connected the two orange wires with sockets to the CPU fans with pins and put heatshrink over them but I hate that. Heatshrink makes a lousy connector and they fell apart. I stripped over the heatshrink and added a small piece and then put a second piece over it.

I installed the grommet around the forward cutout but the instructions made no sense to me. They specifically said the forward hole ONLY for us folks with older models. Why? We'll see.

I connected the 25-pin d-sub and the 8-pin molex connectors labeled "HIC" to the AV-60009 ; connected the HIC connectors on the Rotax Fusebox cables to the appropriate receptacles on the AV-60009; cut off the plastic flanges of the 912iS MAINT PORT backshell and secured the 912iS MAINT PORT on wire E6023 (WHT) to the top of the F-01202B-1 .

I then modified 3 grommets to be used for firewall penetration.Using a socket and a vise, squeeze one grommet at a time (as called out in Figure 2) until the socket sheared through the grommet

Then I routed the wires through the opening in the F-01201A-1, wasting a lot of time looking for wires for a Dynon installation; I'm installing Garmin.

I started on the G3X connector, which took awhile to find as it appears in no inventory. Looking at the powerplant instructions, I found a notation that it's in the avionics kit and I found it in the plastic bag AV-6000 with a bunch of other things. But I stopped because I need to figure out how to connect them. Does the heat shrink they come with come off? I'll consult with the experts at SteinAir.

  Jun 13, 2022     These instructions aren't very good - (.5 hour)       Category: Avionics

The Van's avionics instructions are not very good. They're vague in too many parts and they don't match the harness as delivered. Today I discovered an example. The instructions suggest you route all the wires in a portion of the harness through the big hole in F-01202B-1 (the subpanel shelf) that are bundled by a blue tie wrap. But following the instructions to lay out the wires to the various components, I discovered that there are a LOT more connectors that need to come up to the shelf. Now I have to figure out which are which. The instructions also refer to the "main harness." But your harness is now three or four different branches. Referring to the "main harness" tells me nothing.

  Jun 12, 2022     Connected coax to transponder antenna - (.2 hour) Category: Avionics

I've been waiting for the opportunity for Carolie to help me tighten the transponder antenna and she was able to do so this date. Then I attached the coax cable.

  Jun 10, 2022     Installed autopilot disconnect - (.5 hour) Category: Avionics

Routed the autopilot disconnect and attached per the instructions. Also installed the ES-00195 Dimmer Potentiometer.

  Jun 07, 2022     Connected trim wires to connector - (.5 hour)       Category: Avionics

I guess I'd already added the pins to the trim wires some time ago (years, maybe?) so I just inserted them into the DSUB connector along with the two wires that were in the 1 and 2 positions already. Then attached the connector to the power module.

I also attached the autopilot disconnect button to the proper spot.

  Jun 05, 2022     Routed fuel pump wires - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Van's solved the fuel pump wire mystery. They're still with the engine as there was no step in the instructions to route them into the cabin. The great Tony Kirk answers the mystery.

"Hi Bob,



I agree, we do not do a very good job detailing where the Fuel Pump connectors are located on the main ECU harness. We should add this info the next revision of section 42M.



In Figure 1 on page 46iS-07, the two connectors marked #19 are the fuel pump connectors. They originate from the main ECU harness at the Fuse Box Lane "B" X2 and the Lane "A" X1 connectors, shown in Figure 3, also on 46iS-07, see pic below.



The wires should be routed through the firewall “Modified AN931-6-16” grommet as shown on page 42MiS/U-14 marked-up in red (below). Unfortunately, the fuel pump connectors may need to be passed through the firewall grommet before you pass many of the other wires through the grommet because of their size.



After passing the FP connectors through the firewall they go down behind the Power Module through the large opening in the F-01202B-1, then to the mating connectors in the RV-12iS harness, as per the instructions you quote.



Fuel Pump identification can be found in the Rotax Heavy Maintenance Manual available at https://www.flyrotax.com/p/service/technical-documentation



If you need part numbers for the connectors themselves, that information is detailed on the Wiring Harness Schematic page 11.



Hopefully, this info gets you one step closer to completion."

----------
When attaching the wires, I indicated on the plans which connection goes to which fuel pump.

Also attached the ground wire from the AV6000 power module.

  May 26, 2022     Finished pilot-side wing pin sensor install - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

The new US-made step drill came in at Ace to I picked that up only to find the 5/16" hole I'd already made for bushings was appropriately sized. Guess you can never have too many step drill bits. Installed the bushings after determining the ring connectors would not fit through the bushing. So cut off the connector, ran th wire, and crimped on a new ring terminal. Then snugged it down.

I also went back to an earlier instruction (42MiS/U-02 Figure 2) to countersink a couple of holes for a connector. Done. We'll see if it's countersunk enough later, I guess.

And I did more separating of the wiring harness and examining of the plans . The instructions say: "Connect the Fuel Pump 1 (Main) and Fuel Pump 2 (Aux) connectors from the main harness to the corresponding connectors from the Rotax ECU harness. See Figure 1."

That's confusing. There's no connector labels on either connector (just number IDs on the wire). And I don't see the connectors on the Rotax ECU harness. Figure 1 isn't particularly helpful.

  May 24, 2022     Mounted AV-6000 - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

So the four screws in the AV6000 that come in the unit can be safely removed, the unit installed in the bracket, and the screw/washer callout in the instructions inserted in their place. Of course I lost one screw/washer and will have to order more.

There's no real callout for the dimensions in enlarging the holes in the F-01202B-1 to allow the big Garmin connector to fit through when routing the forward wires (other than a 1/2" radius) and my enlarged cutout was too small, so I enlarged it until I could get the connector, and all the other forward wires out.

I did remove the three connected ring terminals and then reconnect them once that connector was topside.

  May 23, 2022     Began plotting the wiring harness install - (.5 hour)       Category: Avionics

Man, that's a lot of stinking wires! I unpacked the harness with an eye on page 13 of Chapter 42, which is installing the AV-6000. There was reference to connecting ring terminals and the 50 pin connector and a reference to an installation drawing I didn't see. The 50 pin connector is already installed and there's no indication what ring connectors the instructions are referring to so I'm guessing -- guessing -- that they were connected by Stein.

Mounting the AV-6000 was problematic because of four installed screws on the AV-6000. I assume these are removed and replaced with the SCREW 0606MPP-BO/ WASHER 90295A380 combination as called out in the instructions. But I want to make sure the installed screws aren't holding the underlying standoff in place. So I paused to do more research.

  May 21, 2022     Completed stick wiring - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

The answer to the question of getting thin wires into a d-sub connector is the insertion/extraction tool, which I'd bought from Stein years ago but never used.

Ran into another roadblock. The step drill with a hex that I'd bought last week makes undersized 5/16" holes. Gotta find one made in the USA.

  May 20, 2022     Back to work on the stick grip wiring - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

The two tiny bushings arrived from Van's so I installed both of those on the pilot and passenger side. Slid heat shrink over the wires and shrunk the base where the wires come out of the stick and ziptied them down as instructed. I stripped the wires and added DSUB pins. But I stopped after trying to get them into the connector. The wires are so thin (24g) that if you try to push the wire to get the DSUB into the connector and locked, the wire just folds over. So I have to do some research to see the best way to do this without screwing up the pins and wire.

Meanwhile, I learned from Josh at SteinAir that the reason I couldn't find the AV-6000 is because they already wired it into the harness. So it's in the big bundle of wires.

I put my glasses down at the hangar somewhere and now can't find them. Cleaned the hangar. Nothing. So now I get to buy a new pair of glasses.

  May 18, 2022     Expanded forward access hole - (.2 hour)       Category: Avionics

I used the new right angle drill to drill a 1/8" hole just off the spot on the forward access hole in the F-01202B-1, then used a cutting wheel in the Dremel to complete the cutout.

I continue to be vexxed by the callouts on the instructions. There are several parts that the instructions call AV-6000 but are AV-6007 or AV-60009-1. But the AV-6000 is an IS Power Module Assembly that is NOT in the bag marked AV-6000

  May 17, 2022     Evaluated holes that need to be cut - (.1 hour) Category: Avionics

Another case of the early fuselage buyers getting screwed by the design of the avionics kits. There are two oval holes those kits on the F-01202B-1s, the instrument subpanel shelf where the newer kits have one large one. So the forward hole needs to be enlarged. I measured and marked off where I'll need to drill a radius hole with the step drill.

  May 16, 2022     Enlarged holes - (4 hours)       Category: Avionics

Although I was able to enlarge a couple of holes with tools I had on hand, there was no such luck with the holes for the wing spar pin switch on both sides. After consulting with VAF and the Facebook group, I bought about $100 worth of tools, but the step bit wasn't a hex, so I trudged to Northern Tool to get one of those. Then I successfully drilled the holes in the F-1204B on each side to 5/16 and installed the switch on the right side. The instruction figure for the left side shows bushings in place so I need to find out what number bushing before installing that one as it has a wire from the fuel tank (which I removed).

I riveted in two ES-00301 (zip tie holder) to the F-01223-L-1 and F-01223-R-1 ribs under the baggage floor which was a major pain in the neck to get to. I routed the trim wire and AOA tube WH-P30-1 to the front of the plane (the AOA tube exited out the side of the fuse, and loosely zip tied the trim wires to the n F-12103-1.

  May 15, 2022     The curse of the early fuselage kit - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

When Van's introduced the RV-12iS, I was one of the first to get a fuselage kit as I already had an order in for the RV-12 fuse kit when the announcement came. Van's had not yet provided an RV-12iS avionics kit. When it developed that kit, owners of early fuselage parts were now faced with enlarging certain holes for snap bushings and the like. The problem, obviously, wiring runs occur in hidden and small spaces that are impossible to get to by the you reach Section 42. So much stuff is already installed.

That hit me in this work section. The instructions call for holes to be enlarged "if required" which is Van's speak for "if you have an early version of the fuselage kit.

The first called for a 3/8" hole to be drilled in the left and right F-0124F-X-1. No way that could happen with the fuel tank in the way so I had to unhook everything and pull that out (again: good thing the tail cone isn't attached).

But then the next problem hit. You can't really get a straight-in shot at that hole because the side skins curve back toward center. I was able to get "sort of" a straight hole on both sides but it wasn't pretty and I'm not happy with that.

The instructions call for a 5/16" hole in F-01204B-R/L-1 and there's no way. You've only got about 4" of room in the slot for both wing spars so even a right angle drill (the one I have) with a chuck for a step drill won't work.

I'm researching ideas on VAF and Facebook and it looks like a hex-step drill and a flexible attachment might work. It sucks to spend maybe $60 to drill two holes but that's probably what I'll have to do. In the meantime the project is paused while I come up with a solution.

The good news is I was able to open up the hole for the bushing in F-01205B-1 without too much interference from the rollbar. And with the fuel tank out of the way, I was able to tighten the ELT antenna nut.

Increasingly, it's looking like I won't get to the canopy this summer.

I also talked to Kevin and Eric at Van's and they're sending me the two missing snap bushings for the hole at the bottom of both control sticks.

  May 13, 2022     Installed ELT.       Category: Avionics

I have not received an answer to the location of this mystery bushing Van's' instructions call for in the base of the yoke (it also does not appear anywhere in the RV-12 parts list) so I continued on with the ELT installation. I attached the base and straps to the subfloor in the baggage area and secured, routed the connection from the transmitter housing to the audio alert thing and then tie wrapped that down (Van's supplied tie wraps for this are too short so I joined two together. Then I installed the antenna and tightened it down. I'd like to tighten it more but access here is near impossible because of the fuel tank. I attached the antenna cable and routed it to the ELT. I made a split in a bushing to fit the antenna wire through and secured it to the baggage floor. The next step called for a bushing to be installed in the hole forward of the antenna but the bushing callout will NOT fit that hole.

I went back in the instructions, figuring I must've missed a callout to enlarge that hole but I did not. Perhaps the instructions have been updated. I sent a note to Van's. I hope I don't have to enlarge the hole because the drill will be blocked by the angle of the rollbar.

The expiration date on the ELT battery is September 2026.

  May 12, 2022     Canopy lock sensor - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

The next step in the instructions called for mounting the ELT bracket which I couldn't do because it's back home in the guest room. And after that it's ELT antenna work, which is back home in the guest room. So I moved on to the canopy sensor lock, cutting off the little roller at indicated , attached the space portion of F6035 to the com port and to the rollbar brace as directed, and then mounted the switch to its assigned spot. Not sure I'll be able to go much further on that particular component because I don't have the canopy done. But I had to stop in order to drive three Major League baseballs from Target Field to Apple Valley for three kids I'd promised balls to.

  May 11, 2022     Installed stick grips - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

It must be an age thing where I miss important details in a simple instruction. I drilled the hole in the base of both sticks. Fine. I drilled the hole in the control head and spacer and stick grip. Fine. I put the foam over the stick (which didn't want to go on). But... fine. I riveted the spacer to the stick. Not fine. I strung the wires down through the stick to exit at the hole at the base. Fine. Except. Not fine. I was supposed to rivet the control head to the spacer to the stick after running the wires. So I drilled out both rivets and restrung the wires, then riveted all three in place (I actually did this part about 11 a.m. after stopping at the hangar after a rained-out Twins game where I'm an usher). Horror ensued as I started to rivet the pilot side when I realized I'd put the foam grip on upside down and surely I did that to the co-pilot side too. But it was... you know... fine. Then completed the process and cut the wires to length down below. And I put the labels on.

However I couldn't put bushings in the lower hole (which I have to do before putting the DSub connector on because the part number listed on the plans does not appear anywhere on the avionics inventory list , so I sent a note to Van's.

  May 10, 2022     Drilled hole in stick - (.5 hour)       Category: Avionics

I was out at the hangar to pick up a lawn mower and thought I'd at least do something on the plane so I drilled the number 11 holes at the bottom of both sticks it's called out in the instructions. I started with a number 40 and then a 30 and a 22 and an 18 then a 14 and a 12 and then at 11.

  May 09, 2022     Com and transponder antenna installed - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

Installed the com antenna which was a tight squeeze for access to tighten the nuts down on AV-00008. Then fit the transponder rod-type antenna, duct taped it in place so I could put the lock washer and nut on. I hand tightened it but I'll need another pair of hands to tighten it down completely.

  May 09, 2022     CPU fans installed - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

I mostly finished the avionics inventory with the exception of the big items which are still in boxes in the guest room. They're going to stay there to be covered by homeowners insurance rather than take them to the hangar. I used TOOL-00005 to drill the mounting holes, then cut the wires on the CPU FAN to length and added connectors, using the ground (black) to connect to one of the screws. I'm not sure on the orientation of the crews but the plans list the parts in order which puts the nut on the to. I'll investigate that a bit. I can always change it.

I also made a spreadsheet of the inventory list in Excel so that I can update the storage location and installation status and search the file alphabetically. I spend a ridiculous amount of time searching packing lists during construction.

Oh, one thing I discovered during the inventory is I did not order the $600 powder coated and labelled instrument panel covers. I've contacted Van's to see if I can send the blanks back and spend even more money.

  May 05, 2022     Completed SB-53 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Service B's

Primed and then installed all the clips on three forward bulkheads. Two on 1208 and 1209 bulkheads and one on the forward portion of 1210. Will make this area and a point of inspection at the time of annual condition inspections.

  May 04, 2022     Started on SB-53 - (3 hours)       Category: Service B's

Took the tailcone off and made the plawood inserts for support. But what a pain in the neck drilling out the rivets were. I've got a couple of elongated holes. I don't know how people with the tailcone attached are doing this. Took the clips, which will be inserted at each bulkhead, home for alodining and priming.

  Mar 10, 2022     Getting ready to start on SB-00053 - (.1 hour)       Category: Service B's

Van's has issued SB-00053 because of some cracking in the bottom skin at the intersection with bulkheads in the tailcone. Fortunately, I haven't permanently installed the tailcone so I should be able to remove it and get back in there manageably once the water from the spring melt leaves the hangar. STILL waiting for the avionics kit to arrive and it looks like I will reach the one-year mark on the wait soon.

  Dec 26, 2021     Fixed some wire connector issues - (1 hour)       Category: Lighting

Back when I was installing the two connectors on each of the wing Roots I for some reason put them in different numbered connections then what I was supposed to. And it might have been because I put one in the wrong connector and then that just led to it Cascade of plugs in the wrong connectors and I figured it would be no big deal I would just compensate with a connector when the avionics come so that all the wires would match up properly. I'm still waiting for the avionics to show up so I'm still working a little dinky things and I figured I might as well try to put those wires in the right connectors so I ordered a molex tool to remove the wires which worked okay and I put the right wing wires in there correct connections. The left wing was a little bit different I had the ground wire and the number three connection instead of the number one connection so I took that out and then I realized why I had it in the number three connection which was that I had somehow buggered up the number one connection so I ended up putting it back in the wrong connection and documented it on me instructions so that I would know next time why the number one connection is actually now the number three connection. Latest on the avionics is maybe sometime in january. I ordered it last May.

  Oct 05, 2021     Cotter pins in wheel axles - (.1 hour) Category: Finishing

You can't just buy one cotter pin from MATCO . Your order has to be at least $10. Cotter pins go for 21 cents each. Add another $10 for shipping. 48 cotter pins bought. Two used.

  Sep 15, 2021     Starting over on rear window Category: Finishing

There should have been enough edge distance on those two center holes by the notches in the rear window. But there wasn't. I had taken too much off. I ordered a new window and I'll tackle it when the warmth returns next year.

  Sep 13, 2021     Cut notches in rear window - (2 hours)       Category: Finishing

The cellphone said 74. The thermometer in the hangar said 79 and the car thermometer said 81, so I figured I could get away with drilling holes and using the Dremel to make the cutouts to accommodate the rollbar support brace, the idea being to drill the corners of the notch to make up the radius and then use the Dremel to cut out the notch and knock off the corners.

I used a Dremel sanding drum for initial shaping and then sanded with 220, 320, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper.

Then I refit the window. My once concern is the forward hole -- #2 on the plans -- has an edge distance problem because of the cutout. I've sent Van's the details as follows::

"The instructions had me notching the window to accommodate F-1232B-L & R, the inboard most hole on each side as indicated by #2 on figure 1 is either not going to have window material underneath it or is not going to be able to accommodate the 5/16" edge distance warning on page 38iS/U-12 (right after step 10).

"I can't -- and don't want to -- pull the window back because the front edge nicely aligns with the aft edge of the front of the rollbar per 38iS/U-12 step 8.

"Guidance?"

We'll see what they say. I fiddled around with the fit, making some concessions for edge distance issues, and clamped it while awaiting Van's guidance.

Patrick and I will originally going to drill this on Thursday, because it's supposed to be warm. But I don't have the right size Plexiglass drill bits. You need a #40, #36, #30, and a #27 and I only have the ones I got from Avery Tools when I built the 7A and they are fractional sizes of 1/8" and up. So I've ordered bits. Hopefully they'll get here soon before the last of the summer weather is gone until next year.

I still have to think about whether I want to drill this with the tail cone clecoed on. Is it possible that there'll be a slight alignment change when I rivet the tail cone on?

[Update from Tony Kirk:]

The front edge of the window should not align with the aft edge of the F-1231A-FL & -FR at this stage, it should be forward of the rollbar front halves aft edges, where you get the measurement (38iSU-12 Step 8) to determine how deep to make the notches for the F-1232B-L & -R (plus 1/32) in Step 7. After notching the window to fit perfectly around the F-1232Bs (be precise with your marking and trimming!) you should still have enough material for the screw holes (yellow below), and the forward edge of the window should be very close to the proper position. Also be sure to read Page 13 Steps 4-8 for final trimming of the forward edge of the window.