Project: jseaborn   -  
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Builder Name:Jeff Seaborn   -  
Project:   Dalotel DM165   -   VIEW REPORTS
Total Hours:653
Total Flight Time:
Start/Last Date:Nov 06, 2019 - Nov 06, 2019
Engine:Originally Continental IO-346 A what? Yep, an IO-346 as used in Muskateers of the same vintage
Propeller:A Regy Wooden Fixed Pitch What the heck is that? A French prop from that era
Panel:Steam gauges circa 1969. In French and in metric. Yikes!
 
Friendly URL: https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=jseaborn

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Dec 19, 2023     Still for sale Category: For Sale
Sometimes life gets in the way of plans. For this reason, mid-summer I stopped actively promoting the sale of the project and put it into storage.

Here's hoping someone with the skills, the time, and the resources to complete the project takes it on. Thanks to all who have been following the project.

I'll put it up for sale again in the spring time. Saying that, if there's any interest in the meantime, I will entertain discussions and offers.
 
Jul 30, 2023     Comments from a pilot who flew the Dalotel Category: For Sale
Having the Dalotel project posted in Barnstormers connected me to another amazing person.

I received an e-mail from Tony Bianchi in the UK who advised me that he had flown the Dalotel and really admired its flying qualities.

In Tony's words, "Hi Jeff, I saw your ad for the Dalotel. That's a great aircraft ! I flew it in the early 70s when Michel Dalotel was on a visit to the U.K.
At the time I was flying in unlimited aerobatic contests with the Zlin 526 and flying the Dalotel was like flying a super Zlin. Delicate, light and a lot easier than the Zlin. We could see future development with a slightly more powerful engine and a VP propellor that the aircraft would be a very competitive machine in world contest. However things moved fast in those days and Michel's aspiration was eclipsed by Mudry and the Cap 10 and other aircraft that were emerging at the same time with more backing. We can only dream of what would have been. Fantastic and loved it! I hope you find a worthy home for the aircraft. It's a wonderful part of French aerobatic aviation history that sadly never happened and should be saved. "

Tony also mentioned, "I first saw the aircraft at Meaux Esbly with my late father Doug when the aircraft was finished and before the first flight. We were very impressed with the quality of the build and the detail engineering."

Tony has some credibility to his comments as he has an impressive flying repertoire. Tony represented Britain on the British Aerobatic Team at the World Championships in 1976, 80, 84, 86, 90, and 92. Doing a little internet sleuthing directed me to a profile published in Light Aircraft Magazine in 2013. The article mentions that Tony has "Around 170 types but only 2,700 hours total (approximately 1,000 hours aerobatics). Types include include early pioneer aircraft Bleriot, Demoiselle, through to WWI machines like various Sopwiths and Fokkers. Also 1930s fighters, Hawker Fury, Dewotine D26 and second war fighters like the Spitfire, P40, Mustang. I've also flown trainers, support aircraft and modern singles and twins on routine flight testing; post-war biplanes and aerobatic aircraft. "

Additionally Tony has been involved in some amazing restorations and maintenance of incredible aircraft. There's true value in his comments and observations. Thanks Tony for sharing your perspective.
 
May 29, 2023     Project is for Sale Category: For Sale
Over the past year I've come to realize that I don't have it in me to complete the project. As much as I'd like to be the person to bring this unique plane back to life, I don't have the time or the energy to continue. Hopefully someone else has the skills and energy to complete the project.

It's now posted on Barnstormers under the following:
https://www.barnstormers.com/classified-1828034-Dalotel-DM-165-project.html
Please share the news to anyone you think is looking for a unique project.

First of all, thanks to Ray Ordorica for bringing the plane to North America, taking countless photos of it in its original state and starting the restoration. The fine craftsmanship of the restored empennage and many of the new wing ribs are all courtesy of Ray.

Thanks to all who have followed and supported this restoration. The number of people who have reached out to me from around the world who have shown their support and encouragement has been amazing.

Additionally, to all the modellers who are building, or have built scale replicas of the plane, thanks for keeping the legend going. If Hanno Prettner hadn't won the 1978 R/C Tournament of Champions, the modelling community likely wouldn't know of the airplane and both the plane and its history would have likely disappeared. It was a real treat to have one of Hanno's friends contact me a couple of years ago.

Finally, thanks to Christian Ravel from Air and Space museum at the Angers Loire Airport in France who expressed interest in repatriating the plane back to France. Michel Dalotel bequeathed all the drawings and documentation of the plane to the Angers Loire Airport so it would be appropriate for the plane to be part of their museum. If anyone out there has interest to sponsor the repatriation of the plane to the museum, please let me know. As much as I'd like to see the plane fly, I'd be just as pleased to see it in the museum in France.
http://www.musee-aviation-angers.fr/
 
Mar 11, 2023     Leading edge part 7? Sure, why not. - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Sanded the filler from last time I worked on the wing.

Sanded, sanded, sanded. Then mixed up some filler and put it in a few of the remaining low spots.


 
Mar 05, 2023     Leading Edge part 6 - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Sanded. Sanded. And sanded some more. Got the leading edge to final shape.

Mixed up some filler for some low spots in the skin.
 
Feb 19, 2023     Leading Edge part 5 - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed straps from leading edge.

Planed leading edge to approximate shape.
Started sanding leading edge to proper shape.


 
Feb 12, 2023     Leading Edge part 4 - (.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Epoxied second layer of LE to tip. A lot of it will be planed away. All part of the fun.


 
Feb 11, 2023     Leading edge part 3 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Not a lot to show, but enjoyed the morning of planing the first layer of leading edge to rough shape. Created a nice box of wood shavings that would make great fire starter. Offered the wood to a friend who enjoys campfires but she's too cool for a box of wood. Not too many people get offered genuine Dalotel materials. Her loss. ;-)

Epoxied the second layer of leading edge to the inboard section.


 
Feb 05, 2023     Leading edge part 2 - (.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Trimmed first layer of outboard section of leading edge to rough fit. Epoxied and clamped into place.


 
Feb 04, 2023     Leading edge - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps and staples and such from last effort.

Prepared the front of the wing for leading edge. This meant planing and sanding the stringers and skins to sit flush.

Trimmed first layer of inboard section of leading edge to rough fit. Epoxied and clamped into place.


 
Jan 08, 2023     wing tip and misc pieces part 2 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps, staples, and screws from last work. Carved wingtip skin to rough shape and then sanded to near final shape.

Epoxied remaining skins (less final wheel well area) in place.


 
Jan 07, 2023     Wing tip and misc pieces - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps from last work. Fitted wing tip skin. Epoxied into place. Clamped, screwed, and stapled to hold into place.

Cut out pieces for wheel well skins and door skins.

Removed stub rib in the wheel well. Exactly like the RH wing where I learnt that the stub rib needed to be set at an angle to clear the wheel, the landing gear, and support the gear door. Cleaned up that area for original stub rib to be epoxied in. Thank goodness for Dremel tools.

Added skin doubler for small section of skin outside wheel well.


 
Jan 02, 2023     left wings skin part 7 - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps and staples from previous section. Located and cut hole for pitot tube. Pitot tube is a 2-1/2 foot long tube that is welded to a mounting plate. About 6-8" of the tube protrudes out into the airflow under the wing. The rest of the tube runs inside the wing from the main spar to behind the rear spar. From there it is connected to a tube running parallel to the rear spar. It takes a little bit of convoluting and twisting to get the pitot tube in place with the back end through the slot in the rear spar.

Fitted the final outboard piece of underside skin. Cut it to clear the access panel for the outboard aileron mount.


 
Dec 30, 2022     Left wings skin part 6 - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Epoxied and clamped the outer skin in place.


 
Dec 28, 2022     Left wings skin part 5 - (1 hour) Category: Wings
Removed clamps and staples from second skin section.

Cut, sanded, and epoxied doubler into place for next section of skin.
 
Dec 18, 2022     Left wings skin part 4 - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Moving to the second skin section. Fitted, and epoxied into place.


 
Dec 11, 2022     Left wings skins part 3 - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Removed staples and clamps from root skin.

Cut to size and prepped doubler to second section of skin.

Epoxied and clamped doubler into place.


 
Dec 04, 2022     Left wing skins part 2 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Fitted first wing skin and cut out inboard aileron hinge access.

Spread epoxy over the entire inside skin and spread thickened epoxy over the ribs and spars. Once the skin is pressed onto the ribs and spars the epoxy forms a real nice bond.

Stapled and clamped skin to wing.


 
Nov 13, 2022     Left wing skins - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
After a 4 month break, I started up on the wing again. I started out slow to re-familiarize myself with the project. This involved trimming the nose piece off the ribs to sit flush with the additional stringers I'd added. As a reminder, the original design had a 1 cm x 1 cm stringer running along the very front of the ribs. The wing skins a supposed to wrap around the leading edge, enclosing this stringer. I decided a simpler and stronger way to build the wing was to build the leading edge out of solid basswood carved to the leading edge shape. This simplifies construction immensely, and provides a stronger structure. I copied how the DR-107 (and possibly others) leading edge is built. After chopping the nose off of each rib, I trimmed and then sanded the rib flush to the new stringers.

I then proceeded to fit the wing skins. The root panel required locating and trimming for the access panel for the landing gear mechanism. The outer skins were rough cut to size and are ready for gluing when their time comes.


 
Jul 19, 2022     Wing skins and Landing Gear door - (10 hours)       Category: Wings
It's been a month since I've updated my build log but I've nibbled at the project a bit over the month.

Got the RH wing fully sanded and ready for covering. Worked on the landing gear door. Stiffened the door by putting a frame around the perimeter and an inner skin on the frame.

Fabricated some brackets that the gear door links will mount to. These links will connect the gear door to the gear leg. When the gear retracts, the door will follow. Currently the brackets are only taped in place and drilled out to match a piece of clothes hanger wire. I've got a plan for those links but that's for another day, or month.


 
Jun 05, 2022     Leading edge shaping part 2 - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Did some more planing and eventually some initial sanding on the leading edge. Used a 3' long sanding block that I'd fabricated from a previous project. This provides a terrific ability to shape the leading edge into a continuous and smooth curve.

Epoxied the last small sheets into the missing spots on the underside of the wing.


 
Jun 04, 2022     Leading edge shaping - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Started shaping the leading edge. Using the hand plane to turn solid wood into shavings is so satisfying. Leading edge is starting to take shape.


 
Jun 01, 2022     Leading edge part 4 - (0.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Epoxied on front layer of inboard leading edge.


 
May 30, 2022     Leading edge part 3 - (0.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Epoxied on front layer of outboard leading edge.


 
May 29, 2022     Leading edge part 2 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Cleaned and mounted fixed point for brake line. Removed tarnish and 40 years of surface oxidation.

Epoxied leading edge to outer section of wing.


 
May 27, 2022     Leading edge - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Did some more prep for epoxying the leading edge to the wing. Planed and sanded where necessary. Epoxied the first layer of leading edge on the inboard section.


 
May 27, 2022     Gear door link - (2 hours) Category: Landing Gear
Spent quite a bit of time doing some trial and error to determine the right length for link and the location for a pivot point to connect the gear door to the landing gear. This is a continuation of the work I was doing on the gear on May 22nd. I think I finally found the right pivot location and the corresponding length of link.
 
May 25, 2022     Wheel well skin doublers - (1.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Made some doublers for the skin at the edge of the wheel well cut outs. Epoxied doublers and support pieces into place.


 
May 22, 2022     Gear door and gear clearance - (3 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
I spent some time over the last couple of days fitting the gear door and ensuring clearance for the tire, wheel, and brake assembly when fully retracted.

There are no drawings for the links that connect the gear door to the landing gear. With the exception of a couple of bent and broken pieces, there is nothing left over from the original gear door supports. From photos and what I can gather from the broken pieces, it appears that the gear door is connected to the lower leg of the gear through some rods that pivot on the door itself. Because the gear door hinge is about 4 or 5 inches from the gear pivot itself, the door travel doesn't match the gear leg travel, but travels parallel to the gear leg, exposing more of the wheel as the gear is retracted. This requires a link that is the correct length to pull the gear door in fully when the gear is retracted, but also provide sufficient clearance for the wheel when the gear is extended. The location of the pivot point on the gear door is also critical to this to operate properly. Lastly, since the rods are connected to the lower, unsprung, section of the gear leg and the door hinge is on the wing which can move relative to the lower leg as the gear compresses, the door will draw closer to the wheel when the gear leg compresses.

I had to trim down the upper skin stiffener in the wheel bay. The new wheel and tire combination being wider than the original means that the original dimensions of the structure didn't provide sufficient clearance.


 
May 09, 2022     Skins around wheel bay - (3 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Made some adjustments to door hinge.

Fitted skins for wheel bay area. A lot of trial and error to get the correct fit around the wheel without the cutout becoming excessively large. Some doublers will need to be installed and some further trimming around the tire.


 
May 04, 2022     Gear door hinge - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Spent some time resurrecting the bolts and nut plate from the original gear door. The original hinge was destroyed and its matching partner was long gone.

Built up a spacer as per original, and duplicated the bolt spacing as per the original. Ready for install.

Did some more sanding in prep for leading edge installation.


 
May 01, 2022     Filling and sanding - (1 hour) Category: Wings
Filled and sanded some low spots and remaining holes from the sheeting process.
 
May 01, 2022     Gear Door Layout - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Established size and shape of gear door based on position of ribs, gear, and skin.
Lots of thinking, a bit of taping, some measuring, some marking, and finally, some cutting.

Of course, I cut the door based on the wrong marks. Measure twice, cut once right? It doesn't help if you cut to the wrong marks.

So, I got an extra, albeit smaller door if I ever want to build a 90% scale version of the Dalotel. Cut out a second door to fit properly.


 
Apr 26, 2022     New (old) stub rib #3 - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Cleaned up and sanded original stub rib #3 and epoxied it into place.

Applied micro balloon filler to the small gaps and cleco holes on skin joints and screw holes from tip skin.


 
Apr 24, 2022     Wingtip sheeting and wheel well. - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed staples, clamps, and screws from tip. Carved and sanded tip to shape. Final sanding to be done still.
Trimmed edges at outboard end of aileron bay to allow installation of aileron.
Lowered landing gear into wing to plan skinning for that area. Realized something that I'd feared for quite a while. The stub rib on station 3 wasn't in the right position. I had built it and glued it perpendicular to the front of the wing spar. Fortunately the original sections were still around and with the gear and skins in place, and comparing the gear door size and shape with a 5-view drawing of the plane, it was much more obvious how these pieces were originally installed. This is an example of where the plane was not built to the plans. So with the help of my dremel tool, I surgically removed the stub rib that I'd installed so long ago and prepped the area for the original piece.


 
Apr 22, 2022     Assembled Landing Gear into wing - (2.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
With the wing inverted for the final skinning, I was able to install the landing gear. I installed the gear leg, the retract arm and link, the lower fork, the brake and axle and finally the wheel. This is the first time everything's been together. I will take it apart a couple of times before I'm done.

The gear is another area where Dalotel and St. Poulet et Fils did a fantastic job on the build. The lower bushings for the leg are held in place by four set screws that were custom machined just for this purpose. Once fully installed, a wire ring wraps around the gear leg in a machined slot that lines up with the screw slots. Very clean.

Assembling it will allow me to raise and lower the gear to determine the skin cutout for the gear and gear door.


 
Apr 22, 2022     Tip sheet on RH underside - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps, clecos, and staples from third sheet. Gave the skin a brief sanding to remove some of the epoxy that had dripped or squeezed through some of the clamped or clecoed areas.
Cut away the rib noses. Since I'd changed the design to have a solid leading edge compared to the much more challenging sheeted leading edge, the rib noses are not required. Additionally, I trimmed the skins back to flush with the stringers that the leading edge will be glued to.
Trimmed a sheet of 1/16" mahogany ply for the tip. Cut a slot for the steel bar that's been used as the outboard end of the rotisserie. The original may not have had the slot, but the rotisserie is so useful I'm going to keep that capability until after covered and painted. I'll have to apply a small fabric patch once completed but that's fine.
Epoxied in some doublers for the access panels and epoxied the tip sheet into place. Used coarse wood screws to hold the skin to the tip bow until the epoxy cures.


 
Apr 20, 2022     Third sheet on RH underside - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamp, staples, and clecos from second sheet.
Did final trimming of third sheet including cutting access hole for outboard aileron hinge pin. Epoxied third sheet and secured it as per previous two sheets.


 
Apr 19, 2022     Second sheet on RH underside - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Prepped and epoxied second sheet to underside of RH wing. Used clecos to clamp the sheet to the doubler that had been epoxied to the first sheet. Most of the clecos will be reusable after removal. The thickened epoxy might ruin a few of them. A few clecos sacrificed for the good of the wing skins is worth it.


 
Apr 16, 2022     First sheet on RH underside - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Installed a conduit from root rib to wing mounted retract gearbox. This conduit will carry the wires to the limit switches that mount on the backside of the gearbox.

Epoxied first sheet of ply to underside.


 
Apr 12, 2022     Underside skins - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
With the RH wing in the rotisserie, I was able to lay out the underside skins and do the rough cut for the outline of the skins. This helps establish actual layout and positioning of the skins. Unlike the upper surfaces where I scarfed the skin joints, I'm going to join the underside skins with a butt joint and a doubler. This will simplify construction and will add very little to the overall weight.

Installed aileron to locate edges around aileron bay. Marked for final cut.


 
Apr 10, 2022     Trial fitting of underside skins - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
I needed to refresh and make some reasonable progress on the project so I moved the fuselage out of the shop and the wings cradle into the shop.

The wings are ready for closing up so skinning the underside would be a great way to make some noticeable progress. It took a bit to get back into the wings and plan the steps.
Used some masking tape to identify approximate location of cutout for gear legs.
Marked and then cut out the innermost skin for the cutout for the tie down loop.
Laid out the rest of the skins to test fit and confirm plan of attack.


 
Mar 28, 2022     Machined Pin - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Refer to Jan 14, 2020 for the first pin to crank assembly.

Recently I had a second pin machined for the second landing gear crank. I was able to use natural cooling to reduce the size of the pin back in 2020. I hadn't gotten around to getting the second pin machined until recently and it's not so cold outside. Last week I tried fitting the pin in place by only heating the crank with the pin chilled to the outside temp of around 0 degrees C. The pin dropped in about a 1/16" before it got stuck. I was able to use a punch and drive it out. It certainly confirmed that I'd need to chill the pin to get it to fit in.

So today I got a few pounds of dry ice and got the pin nice and cold (and small).
I also heated the crank with the propane torch. Between heating the crank with the hole and cooling the pin, the temperature difference was ideal for the pin to drop right in.
Just for giggles I got an infrared thermometer to measure the temperatures. I got the crank close to 200 degrees C. The lowest temp the thermometer would read was -40 degrees C. Because of the dry ice, the pin was obviously much colder than that.


 
Mar 05, 2022     Machine work - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Had the landing gear link machined down to 10 mm thick to match original. Had the end holes bored out to fit bearings. Heated the ends of the link and fit the bearings into the holes before the ends cooled. Used a punch to dimple the link, preventing the bearings from coming out.
Had a new link pin machined. It didn't turn out as good as it should so it's going to be redone. No pics.
Also had the bent landing gear torque tube straightened so that it can be reused. It now slides in and out through the splined section. The cut off end will have to be rewelded.


 
Mar 04, 2022     Fuse holder install and wiring - (2 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Had an order from AirCraft Spruce Arrive. This gave me the replacement fuse holders and miscellaneous pieces I was waiting for.

Installed new fuse holders into panel. Wired up remaining connections to match the panel as I received it.


 
Feb 28, 2022     Landing gear link - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
I needed to feel like I was making some progress so I took a break from the electrical work.

Back in June 2020 I had the missing retract link cut out on a waterjet table. This worked out beautifully but it did leave the edges a little rough. I spent some time cleaning those edges up. The link is thicker than the original. I may get it machined down to match the original thickness when I get the bearing sockets machined out. Or maybe not. Once I get that done, I'll clean up the edges of the lightening holes too.


 
Feb 26, 2022     Retract Electrical Panel - (4 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Was away from the project for a few weeks but have come back to tackle another challenging section. The electrical panel for the retracts.

Currently I don't understand the electrical system for the retract motor. Some basics that I do understand:

1. The retract motor is designed to only turn one way. The motor turns the gear system to retract the landing gear and stops at the gearbox rotation that puts the gear in the full up position.
2. To extend, the gearbox continues to rotate past the full up position, beginning the extension of the gear legs.
3. There are upper travel switches and lower travel switches on each of the gearboxes. The trip point of each of these switches are fully adjustable. Each side works in series to set the stopping point of the travel.
4. The gear is retracted (and extended) with a push button. Pushing the button causes the retract motor to spin.
5. There are squat switches in each of the gear legs. Unfortunately the switch in one leg doesn't work and it is not accessible or repairable without destroying the gear leg assembly. Maintenance and repair wasn't considered when this part was designed.

Some design unknowns:
1. I've had the motor checked out and it appears to be in working but it requires some capacitors and such to work. There are some capacitors on the retract electrical panel but I don't know how they fit into the circuitry. I call these items capacitors but I'm not positive they are. Capacitors should have a capacitance rating on them in micro Farads. These ones don't.
2. There are some additional pieces that appear to be large diodes. How do they fit into the circuitry?
3. There are a couple of other unknown pieces. What are they? What do they do? I don't know. Yet.
4. There's a thermal relay that's part of the circuity. I opened it up and it's clean and functional. There are two separate thermal strips that when 12V is applied across either of them, the thermal strips bend away from the contact point of the circuit. In essence, each strip acts like a circuit breaker. This must trip a separate relay as the basic operation of this thermal relay would mean they would heat up and open the circuit, when they cooled they would automatically reset, closing the circuit, beginning the cycle over again. The heating cycle is very quick, within a second. The cooling cycle takes a few seconds. How and what this does, I've yet to figure out.
5. How do the squat switches fit into the circuitry? I expect they'll be in series to the retract function, but how?

Some operations unknowns:
1. Does the gear retract with the single push of the button or does it require a push and hold? One could argue advantages and disadvantages either way.
2. Do the travel switches trip a relay to cause the gear motor to stop or do those switches simply light up the landing gear indicator lights?


 
Jan 31, 2022     More of the same - (5 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Replaced old wires. Fixed broken lights. Cleaned up components. Connected and tested wiring. See picture of panel with landing gear lights lit up. The large, upper light is a rich red like the lower LH light as shown in the photo from Jan 29th. The colour of the picture is misleading. The upper light identifies when the landing gear is up and the smaller lower lights identify the individual gear being down (left and right). All three lights wouldn't normally be lit at the same time because the gear is either up or it's down. But all three light up when the previously mentioned lamp test switch is pressed. The yellow fuel pump light also works when tested and when the fuel pump is switched on. No photo for that. Removed old fuse holders and determined which could be reused and which needed replacing.


 
Jan 30, 2022     Rear panel wiring continued - (1 hour) Category: Instrument Panel
Reinstalled some switches and lights. Replaced some more of the old wiring.
 
Jan 29, 2022     Rear Panel Wiring - (5 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
As previously, removed one component at a time and cleaned up, tested, replaced, and rewired. The panel light for the generator (or alternator) was missing one of its contacts. I was able to fit a narrow strip of 0.010" brass fit in there perfectly and get the light working again. Continued replacing wiring one at a time. I'm not sure how the wiring all fits together yet, but at least I'll have the old replaced with new and I'll be able to continue tracing the electrical system. Some day I'll have it sorted.
The biggest part of the work was removing and disassembling the lamp test switch. That is, the momentary push switch to test the functionality of all the lights in the panel. Since all the lights are incandescents, this is important to ensure they are functioning. The switch is an assembly of 4 separate DPST momentary switches. The circuitry wasn't obvious until most of the old wiring was removed and I could get a close look at the switch. Cleaned and lubed the switch and got it functioning perfectly. Replaced all the wires with new with lengths and connections to match the originals.

Removed some of the fuse holders. Most of these were damaged. Fuse holders are cheap so I'll replace them. The fuse holder for the trim servo was odd in that its housing was larger than its neighbouring fuses. I'd noticed this previously and was hoping I'd figure out why. I believe I now know why. I suspect that when the plane was built, they ran out of the normal fuse holders and substituted this larger one in for the trim servo. The hole in the panel was crudely cut. It looks like someone at the factory 50 years ago used a rough round file to enlarge the hole. It is nothing like the perfectly cut out holes for all the other fuses and components.


 
Jan 26, 2022     Sorting out the wiring of the rear panel - (3.5 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Spent quite a bit of time trying to sort out the wiring of the rear panel. The existing wiring is a real rats nest. It wasn't bundled as nicely as the front panel wiring. That's one of the interesting things about this aircraft; some of the workmanship is incredible with no expense or effort spared, where as some of the workmanship looks rushed with minimal care and attention.
Since some of the remaining wires have tags with handwritten numbers on them, I've started a spreadsheet to compare those numbers to the numbers on the electrical panel. Hoping they'd all correspond and make sense would help the wiring process significantly. Unfortunately there have been a few wires that share the same number as other wires. And these are wires that have no reason to be associated with the other similarly numbered wire.

Due to the mess of wires that I need to retain for understanding, I started pulling individual switches, their corresponding wires and started cleaning and replacing. As each component was cleaned, inspected, worked on and replaced wires. I reinstalled the component before moving on to the next one. I got about a third of the wiring replaced. This is all the easier wiring with the crimped connectors. The soldered wires and damaged components have yet to be tackled.


 
Jan 25, 2022     Further cleaning - (2.5 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Finished cleaning the tabs on the electrical panel, all 65 pairs of tabs.

While in the cleaning mood, I directed my attention to the electric trim indicator. The chrome ring around the gauge had a lot of grime and tarnishing. The brass body of the gauge was well tarnished too. Not anymore though. :-)

Did I need to polish the body? No, I didn't. But you got to admit, it looks a lot better now.


 
Jan 24, 2022     Electrical panel clean up - (1 hour)       Category: Instrument Panel
The original electrical panel is a beautiful fabrication of brass tabs, rivets with numbers etched into them, and phenolic sheet. 50 years of dirt, grime, and surface oxidation has turned the brass tabs to dark, barely recognizable, tabs.
Cleaning the brass is important. It's not just for looks, but it will allow better electrical conductivity. The dirt and oxidation would certainly have added resistance to the loop and may have prevented passing of the electrons altogether.
Using a Dremel tool with a polishing tip and some metal polish has made this doable.


 
Jan 24, 2022     Brake Update - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Summarizing a few work sessions.

I had the last of the welding work done and cleaned up. Painted the rudder pedals and assembled with the brake pedals and fittings. I will need to modify the master cylinder mounts slightly with some sections of tubing from AC Spruce, to be ordered.
Fabricated an additional travel stop for each rudder pedal to maintain clearance for the gear retract torque tubes. This travel stop reduces the pedal travel by 7/16 inch. And this reduces the rudder travel slightly. The rudder originally swung close to 40 degrees per side, which seems much more than necessary. With the new travel stop added, the rudder swings 30 degrees per side which should be sufficient. As a reference, the RV7 is designed for 30-35 degrees travel per side and that's more than adequate. The rudder on the Dalotel is huge in comparison to most aircraft so I'm comfortable with that travel.


 
Jan 08, 2022     Brakes - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Fabricated a new lower bracket for the RH brake pedal. Trimmed it to fit tightly against the existing rudder pedal assembly when welded into place.

The aluminum sleeve from original heel brake assembly needed to be removed. The inner sleeve on the LH rudder pedal had melted when the lower bracket was welded to the outer tube. The inner sleeve was loose in the tube but was hung up. I didn't want it to loosen with time and fall out at an inopportune time so I drilled out and fully removed the aluminum inner sleeve. I did the same with the sleeve on the RH pedal as it would melt when the bracket was welded to its corresponding tube. Photo to follow.


 
Jan 06, 2022     Brake Pedals - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Fabricated the last parts for the brake pedals. Cleaned up all the parts, deburring, countersinking, etc. Riveted parts together to complete each pedal.


 
Jan 04, 2022     Brakes assemblies - (4.5 hours)       Category: Controls
Created final layout of brake pedal assembly. Took a few attempts and adjustments to get sufficient clearance, for example, pedal needed to be shortened by 1/4" to clear the wing bolt, see second picture. Almost there. Some additional modification might be done to master cylinder housing.

See pictures below to see the tight clearances. Keep in mind that landing gear torque tube will be coming towards the viewer from the hole in the frame in the back ground of the photo. Rudder bar, brake pedal, master cylinder and brake fluid reservoir all need to be in specific position to provide clearance for the torque tube. Brake fluid reservoir needs to be tilted forward to clear brake pedal and some of the rudder pedal needed to be ground away to provide clearance there too.

Once I had enough confidence in the assembly for the LH pedal, made mirror image duplicates for RH pedal.


 
Jan 03, 2022     Brake progress - (1.5 hours)       Category: Controls
With both rudder cables connected, I was able to check full travel of the rudder and rudder pedals. It appears that I don't need to provide clearance for full pedal travel to provide sufficient rudder travel. This reduction in pedal travel means less issue with the pedals and brake assemblies impinging on the retract torque tubes. The reduction isn't a large amount but it does help.

Having checked master cylinder travel on a couple of other completed airplanes, I don't think I'll need full travel on these master cylinders. Following that theory, means that I can shorten the master cylinder pistons slightly. I shortened the master cylinder pistons by 5/16". This reduces the overall relaxed length of the master cylinder by that same amount, providing more room for fitment.


 
Dec 27, 2021     Instrument layout - (0.5 hour)       Category: Avionics
With my son home from University for the holidays, I had him draw up my proposed layout for the radio and intercom for the rear panel.

The original radio was panel mounted fitting into a standard 3-1/8" instrument hole. A friend referred to the radio as an old "coffee grinder" style. It appears to have had radio and intercom functionality. See attached picture.

I want to install a new radio in the same hole without cutting into the original panel. My plan is to use a Trig TY91 remote head radio with a Sigtronics Sport 200 intercom mounted underneath it. My plan is to mount them stacked on an insert mounted within the original 3-1/8" hole.

See attached drawing of the layout.


 
Dec 24, 2021     Christmas Presents - (0.5 hour)       Category: Avionics
Received a package from Ray, just in time for Christmas. It included the second airspeed indicator and the missing manifold pressure gauge. Additionally, it included a French-English Aerospace Dictionary from 1973. This is a real treat because it properly translates the words that Google Translate doesn't quite work out.

For example, the term "Casque" on the instrument panel took me a while to figure out. Google translated it to "Helmet" but the more accurate term would be "Headset" which makes a lot more sense. Initially it wasn't quite so obvious since the original headset jack was only one plug, not the typical two plug system that is used today.


 
Dec 23, 2021     Remaining rudder cable arrived and installed - (1 hour) Category: Controls
The second rudder cable arrived from Aircraft Spruce. Installed and fitted with the necessary components. It's the first time the rudder's been connected to the rudder pedals in approximately 40 years.
 
Dec 10, 2021     Brakes. They're the Achilles heel of this project - (2 hours) Category: Controls
Spent another couple of hours trying to fit these brake assemblies into the tight confines between the seat, the floor, the rudder pedals, and the retract torque tube. Fitting the master cylinder and brake fluid reservoir is challenging enough, but there also needs to be room for brake travel and proper geometry to get sufficient brake force with reasonable and predictable brake feel. Getting closer. Fabricated some more pieces to trial fit things together and test. Not done yet, but getting closer. Got distracted and reviewed the retract torque tube assemblies again.
 
Dec 10, 2021     Misc Panel and control stuff - (2 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Decided to keep the original slip indicator in its original position, i.e. inverted on the front panel. For the rear panel, I'm using a new slip indicator that I already have. This new indicator is narrower than the original so this meant fabricating a mounting plate to attach to the original holes in the panel and the indicator to mount to it. I cut out the mounting plate from 0.125" sheet, drilled and tapped some 10-32 holes for the indicator screws to mount to. Notched the mounting plate to allow the slip indicator to sit as close as possible to the original panel. See attached pics. Also trimmed the new slip indicator so that the edges were flush and suitable for this new installation. See pics.
Mounted a microswitch for automatic fuel pump. This is a switch that will automatically turn on the fuel boost pump when the throttle is pulled back. Beautifully made mount, very simple concept, one of Dalotel's better ideas.


 
Dec 10, 2021     Wiring and misc - (2 hours)       Category: Instrument Panel
Added an additional coax cable to the front panel for the headset/microphone pair. There was one coax already but needed to add a second. Fortunately, there were some empty pins on the Jaeger connector.
Also added an additional wire for CHT gauge that I added, again using an empty pin on the Jaeger connector.

Lastly, I spent some time fixing a safety wire that I had mis-wired on the retract motor. Rob is a fellow Dalotel enthusiast out of the US and he's been following the restoration. Rob noticed an issue with one of my safety wires and shared the attached photo. I don't know how I let that mis-wiring happen, but I did. It's good to have a second or third set of eyes to review things. Thanks Rob. The retract motor had been reinstalled in the fuselage so access to this wire was limited. There was just enough access to entice me to try without removing the motor. Notice that the holes for the safety wire aren't on the side of the screw head. They are closer to the rounded top. This made wrapping the safety wire around the screw very difficult, especially with the limited accessibility. The wire kept slipping off the edge and pulling over the head of the screw. It took a few tries but I was eventually able to get it. Due to the limited access, I couldn't get a reasonable picture of the corrected wiring. You'll have to take my word for it. ;-)


 
Dec 08, 2021     Passed Pre-cover Inspection - (1 hour)       Category: Inspection
Had a good inspection review with my MD-RA inspector Doug. Doug has built countless RVs himself and has inspected countless other projects for other people.

I think he found the Dalotel project to be quite interesting. It's certainly unique.

Oh yeah, I passed inspection. That means I can continue.
Next inspection will be the final inspection but there's a LOT to be done before then. Time to pick up the pace.


 
Dec 07, 2021     Removed original covering off LH aileron - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
I'm jumping around a bit on the project, but for good reason. I just scheduled my "Pre-Cover" inspection with MD-RA for tomorrow. This is the inspection and review of the airframe, materials, my workmanship and of course paperwork which is all part of the process for an "amateur built" aircraft in Canada. In Canada we use the term amateur built instead of "Experimental" like the U.S. does. Although this plane flew previously and was intended to become a factory built, or certified aircraft, it never became that. This has allowed me to restore it as an amateur built but it requires inspections by an MD-RA inspector at various stages of the build or restoration. The MD-RA inspector is a dedicated volunteer with aircraft structural and power plant experience and training who represents Transport Canada. Often the inspector is someone who has built a few of their own amateur built aircraft themselves. Ideally, the inspector has experience on the type of structure you're building or restoring. Check out MD-RA.com for more details.

Since my inspector will be doing the Pre-Cover inspection, he'll expect to see all the airframe pieces without any covering on it. Although the ailerons were structurally sound after the accident, they still need to be inspected prior to recovering, so off with the old covering. The RH aileron had already been stripped of its covering prior to my starting the project.

Upon removing the covering, I discovered evidence that the aileron servo tabs were added to the plane later in its life. The fabric was cut away from that area and there is some scorching on the aluminum where some additional welding was done for the servo tabs. The patchwork around the servo tab was hardly noticeable from the outside, but it became more so, once the fabric was opened up.

Looking at some of the vintage photos supports that theory. See attached photo. This was a picture of the plane early in its life. I know this was early in the plane's life because the photo shows the plane with the original, individual exhaust stacks sticking out of the bottom of the cowl cheeks. Later, the exhaust was collected on each side and became a pair of exhaust stacks out the bottom of the cowl in front of the firewall. The attached photo shows the individual exhaust stacks and a continuous trailing edge on the aileron. Additionally, there isn't the linkage between the aileron hinge and the servo tab. The servo tabs were obviously added at some point, and then enlarged with a strip of aluminum bolted to them. Unfortunately the log books don't mention any of these changes. In fact, the log book entries were extremely poor. They only have a date and a time flown. They don't mention the pilot, the location, or anything they did during the flight.


 
Dec 05, 2021     Cleaned up forward instrument panel - (1 hour)       Category: Instrument Panel
Having reviewed some of the original pictures, I realized that some of the instruments had been moved around. I recall Ray saying he'd relocated some of them to make them more convenient. Knowing that few things are convenient on this airplane, I'll put them back in their original position. Not that many would know. But hey, I have to try for some level of authenticity.

The most useful picture of the original panel is attached. The layout of the instruments matches those from other, less clear photos.
A few things worth noting:

Front Panel:
1. The front panel is missing an instrument in the top left corner. All photos showing the original plane, and the way the panel was received suggest that this hole was never filled. I've installed a spare CHT gauge that I have. Useful information. There are some spare pins on the Jeager connector that I can use, so everything will be bundled as before.
2. The small gauge on the lower right hand corner of the front panel is missing. It's a pressure gauge, likely manifold pressure, since it's reading close to 1000 mBar in the photo. Since a manifold pressure gauge isn't critical on an engine with a fixed pitch prop, I've installed a very useful Ammeter instead. Fortunately, I had an extra one sitting around from a previous project and there's already extra wiring from the Jaeger connector.
3. Just to the left of the above mentioned pressure gauge, is a small hole labelled "CASQUE". There is a similar hole on the rear panel in the same location. Using google translate, CASQUE translates to "HELMET". Having thought that the hole was a light, I couldn't understand what it was for, until I reviewed the attached picture again. When zoomed in, they appear to be some sort of plug in. My "Aha" moment came in the middle of the night. They were the plug in for the headsets. They didn't use the dual plug system that's now the standard worldwide. I'll have to make some modification.
4. The slip indicator on the front panel is mounted upside down. This presumably is to assist in keeping things centred when flying inverted. The rear panel has the slip indicator mounted right side up. Unfortunately, the slip indicator on the rear panel was removed years ago and is long gone.
Having flown a lot of aerobatics, I can say that a slip indicator is useless when inverted. When flying inverted, you're not trying to keep the plane balanced and centred. After all, if you're inverted, you're flying aerobatics and you're likely tossing the plane around.
Since the plane is over 50 years old and I'm not going to get the plane cleared for aerobatics, I was tempted to mount the slip indicator right side up. But in interest of authenticity, I might leave it inverted and mount a second one right side up on the rear panel. Again, I have a spare one from a previous project. Of course, it won't be authentic, so what do I do? Original upright, or original inverted and a new one upright?

Rear Panel:
5. The original compass is missing. I have a replacement in my collection. Yay. Not a perfect match, but the chance of finding a compass identical to the original is slim.
6. The original altimeter was missing from the rear panel. Not a big issue. I have a replacement in my collection. Besides the original altimeter read in kilometres. Since the standard in aviation is to refer to altitude in feet, it's an important safety factor to have an altimeter in feet.
7. The original ASI from the rear panel is missing. I know that it was on the airplane when Ray received the project. If my buddy Ray can track that instrument down, I'll reuse it. It's in km/h, which is abnormal, but comparing measured speed with other aircraft is not important except for bragging rights. Knowing where you are within the plane's performance limits is what matters. The units aren't critical. I have a spare ASI in knots and MPH that will work and the range is suitable for this aircraft.
8. The radio is long gone. I wouldn't have been able to use it anyway, even if it had worked. It likely emitted so much stray signal and EMI that it would likely sterilize the pilot or create a tumour. I'm considering installing a Trig TY91 remote radio instead. I have one in my 1-Design and it's a wonderful unit. It fits nicely in a small and shallow panel. It's designed to fit into a 2-1/4" instrument hole. There's a spare hole there where the G-meter went, beside the compass.
9. The G-meter is missing. Fortunately, I have a spare! Although it's a 3-1/8". But that could fit into the old radio location if I choose to use it. I might not though as its presence might encourage aerobatic flying. To be decided.


 
Dec 04, 2021     Finished wiring front panel - (3 hours)       Category: Electrical
Just like the previous few days, I replaced all the remaining wiring and connectors in the front instrument panel.


 
Dec 03, 2021     Cleaned up fuel and oil gauges - (1 hour)       Category: Instrument Panel
Polished up the fuel and pressure gauges. The chromed outer ring looked like it was starting to pit and rust from underneath the chrome. As it turned out, it was just age and dirt and tarnish. A little bit of metal polish and some time with the dremel and a polishing tip resulted in a few shiny gauges.


 
Dec 03, 2021     Created one new wiring harness for front panel. - (2.5 hours)       Category: Electrical
Just like yesterday, I replaced existing wiring with new.


 
Dec 02, 2021     Wiring - (2.5 hours)       Category: Electrical
Ran trim wiring through fuselage up to panel. Reused original wire labels, including hand written masking tape labels, where possible. Crimped spade connectors to end of trim wiring.

Replaced wiring on control stick wiring to Jeager connector. Reused original wire labels here as well.


 
Dec 01, 2021     Trim Servo wiring - (2.5 hours)       Category: Electrical
Replaced wiring for elevator trim servo. Completed the cable between the connector and the servo itself. Reused the original numbered sleeves and connectors. Cleaned and reused the original spiral wrap in its original position.

Completed the tail end of the servo wiring and attached the plug to the fuselage.

Double and triple checked the connections and the circuitry. All good.

I should also mention that I recently received an e-mail from a Dalotel enthusiast in Poland who's building a 1/3 scale model of the plane. Hello Arkadiusz. I've been fortunate enough to "meet" Dalotel enthusiasts from all over the world through this site. I know of many enthusiasts from France, Austria, Poland, Brazil, USA, and Canada. If you've been following the build and I haven't heard from you directly, Hello.


 
Dec 01, 2021     Retract Motor Assembly and Install - (3.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Reassembled and installed retract motor. Took longer than it should have but isn't that the case with all projects? It was a challenge to reinstall due to the lack of clearances and such. This required the heavy motor, the manual retract crank assembly, the outboard bearing set, the supporting frame assembly, and all the associated bolts to come together all at the same time. The plane wasn't designed for serviceability.

There is a hand crank that engages to the motor to manually crank the gear up. This crank assembly slides on a rod that is mounted under the floorboards and engages and disengages from the output shaft of the retract motor. The cranks are mounted right in front of base of the rear control stick. It will be very awkward for the pilot if they need to use the manual crank.

It takes 10 full revolutions of the hand crank to get one full revolution of the retract motor output shafts. These shafts feed the torque tubes that are the input to the retract gearboxes in the wing. The input to the wing gearboxes require 37 revolutions for one full cycle of the landing gear. My math tells me that it will take 10 x 37 = 370 revolutions of the hand crank to cycle the gear one full cycle. Assuming extending the gear from retracted to full extension is exactly half that, it's a measly 185 revolutions of the hand cranks to lower the gear in the event of a failure of the retract motor. Let's hope that's never happens.


 
Nov 17, 2021     Airfasco Bolt Order arrived Category: Empennage
Haven't had any time to work on the project over the last two weeks, but I did have a few orders arrive.

Shipment of four AN5 bolts from Airfasco. Long enough to bolt the stab to the fuselage. Aircraft Spruce couldn't supply ones long enough.
 
Nov 17, 2021     Aircraft Spruce order arrived Category: Fuselage
Shipment of electrical wire and fittings, bolts, and misc items from Aircraft Spruce. This will allow me to start replacing and then installing the wiring.
 
Nov 17, 2021     Aircraft Spruce order arrived Category: Controls
Shipment of rudder cable. Yep. One rudder cable. I had to work with Aircraft Spruce to get a quote for a special combination of cable and end fittings. Through the process, the quantity that I'd asked for somehow got changed from two to one. I didn't notice it on the order. Had to place another one on order and I'll have to wait another month or so...
 
Oct 29, 2021     Picked up some self etching primer. Category: Fuel System
Primarily for the exterior of the fuel tank but I know I'll find some additional uses for it as the project develops.
 
Oct 29, 2021     Electrical review - (2 hours) Category: Electrical
Spent more time reviewing, tracing, and trying to sort out the electrical system. Made rough sketches of the wiring as I went.
 
Oct 28, 2021     Retract Motor Review - (1 hour) Category: Electrical
Took the retract motor to a DC motor specialist. I didn't take any pictures but I should have. His shop was like stepping back in time. He had shelves and shelves of old motors and components. He tested the windings and the armature of the motor. He tested a few other things and he thinks the motor is in good condition. His comment was it's a very old design. I have to figure out the power to the motor yet. There are 4 connections on the motor. Two are 12 VDC and two come from a shunt. I have to sort out the rest of the electrical system on the plane. See pictures from Oct 23rd.
 
Oct 28, 2021     Fuel Tank Steam Cleaned Category: Fuel System
Had fuel tank steam cleaned and leak tested. The tank had some 40 year old grunge and varnish from the last time it had fuel in it. Steam cleaned both top and bottom sections of tank. It's nice and clean now and we found no leaks.
 
Oct 26, 2021     Continued reviewing wiring - (4 hours)       Category: Electrical
Continued tracing and reviewing wiring. Took a couple of the Jeager connectors apart and they looked fine inside. I won't clean off the connector until I'm taking it apart for reuse with the new wiring. Have almost finished identifying sizes and lengths of wire required. It will be a big order from A/C Spruce.

Spent some time with the fuel tank. The windscreen rested on the upper skin of the fuel tank. The windscreen had a rubber gasket on its lower edge that rubbed a mark on the fuel tank. This mark allowed me to make a paper template to replicate where the lower edge of the windscreen rests on the tank. Removed the plastic edging that is riveted on the end of the tank as part of the glare shield. This needed to come off until the plane is covered. The edging fits over the fabric.
Did a thorough surface cleaning of the tank to remove some of the pitting and oxidation. Looking to steam clean it tomorrow.

Brakes. Yeah, they're still in the works. Wanted to see how they may fit as toe brakes. Still not decided. See attached pictures. Hardly any room for all the pieces.


 
Oct 23, 2021     More wiring and electrical - (3.5 hours)       Category: Electrical
Continued inspecting and tracing the wiring. While reviewing the wiring, encountered some wiring that ran ahead of the firewall. Looking at it I was able to determine the original location of a few more pieces on the firewall.

Tested the original starter solenoid. After 40 years of no use, it still works perfectly. It was covered in grease and dirt and grime so I spent some time to clean it up. It won't make it work any better, but it looks nice now.

Pulled some of the Jeager connectors apart and traced the wiring. Cleaned the connectors for reuse.


 
Oct 22, 2021     Elevator trim wiring - (1 hour)       Category: Electrical
Inspected and traced the wiring for the elevator trim servo. The wiring is in two sections. The first section runs from the cockpit back to the tail where the electrical connector is to be mounted to the frame. The second section plugs into that connector and then runs to the trim servo in the elevator.

Tested the wiring and all connections and although they're 50 years old, they still work. I'm going to replace all the wiring however so I wanted to trace it all and ensure I understood the connectors.

Opened the connectors and cleaned out the silicone potting material that was used originally. Cleaned up all the pieces and once I get some new wire, I'll rebuild the electrical bundles.


 
Oct 22, 2021     Replacement cover plate - (1 hour)       Category: Fuel System
Created a new cover plate for the flop tube entry to the fuel tank.

Since I'm not going to be getting this plane cleared for aerobatics, (it's over 50 years old after all) and I'm simplifying the fuel system. This means I'm going to eliminate the flop tube in the fuel tank and go with a simple fuel pick up from the bottom of the tank. Eliminating the flop tube means I needed to create a cover plate where the flop tube used to enter the tank. I'll have to source some fuel resistant gasket material for this.


 
Oct 21, 2021     Heel brakes - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Spent a lot of time building up some toe brakes and cutting the pedals to provide sufficient clearance and proper operation of the brakes. In the end, I don't think effective toe brakes can be made to work on this plane. There are just too many conflicting issues. Between limited space, insufficient travel, and the challenge to get the proper geometry throughout the entire travel of the rudder pedals and the brake pedals, it's back to the drawing board.

I think I'll have to go with heel brakes. Heel brakes aren't conventional but they look like they can be made to work. And since they were originally on the plane, maybe they aren't that unconventional. Then again, if Dalotel chose them, maybe they are.


 
Oct 18, 2021     Retract motor and gearbox disassembly - (2.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Pulled the retract motor apart. Found the gearbox at the end of it full of 50 year old grease. Although it wasn't dried out, it wasn't exactly fresh. Took an awfully long time to scoop, scrape, and force the grease out. It was tough to get out from underneath the central gear and shaft. I put it in a varsol bath to get the last of the grease out. Unfortunately the varsol also removed the 1960's era hammered finished paint. Check out the beautifully machined gears and casting for the gearbox though. This motor and gearbox assembly is one-off so I have to get the retract motor working properly. Once the gearbox was fully cleaned, I filled it back up with fresh grease and reassembled.


 
Oct 16, 2021     Rudder horns, stabilizer blocks, and more - (5.5 hours)       Category: Empennage
Spent some time clearing the holes at the bottom of the rudder to mount the tailwheel connector chains. Ray rebuilt the rudder many years ago and did a beautiful job on this area. Unfortunately it seemed that some epoxy or varnish got into the threads of the nut plates for the tailwheel control horn. Had to use a tap to clear the threads to bolt the control horn on. Like everything else, it took longer than one would expect.

Had only two of the original stabilizer phenolic mounting blocks. Had to manufacture two more out of a block of phenolic that was 1-1/4" thick. Started by cutting the block down into a single smaller block. Cutting phenolic is very slow and it dulls tools quickly. Even with a band saw, the 15 cm of cutting took about 20-30 minutes. The rate of cutting slowed down as the blade dulled...
Since these blocks need to fit on the upper longerons like a saddle, it was simplest to drill the length of the block and then cut it into the two pieces. Drilling the block was done in stages, starting with a 1/8" drill bit, then working my way up to a 1/4" bit. Once the 1/4" hole was created, I used a step bit to get to a larger hole. My first step bit goes to 3/4". I needed to get to 7/8". My larger step bit goes to 1". Since I didn't need to go that large and I needed the bit to plunge the full depth, I used the grinder to remove the 1" step. This left me with a bit with a 7/8" max diameter. The process worked and I eventually had a block with a 7/8" bore down the length of it. Cutting it in two didn't take too long since most of the cross section was removed by the hole. From there, the mounting hole was drilled and some work was done to finish the shaping and get the proper thickness and taper to match the existing blocks. It took a while with the dremel and the belt sander but I was pleased with the results.

With the blocks in place on the upper longerons, I reinstalled the stabilizer and checked it for level. It was. I then measured the length of the AN5 bolts required to secure the stabilizer to the fuselage. The forward ones require a 6-3/8" grip and the rearward ones require a 6-3/4" grip. I'm going to have to order them from a dedicated aircraft bolt supply company just like I had to do on the wing spars. I'm sure they'll be pricy bolts.

Installed some interior pieces that I recently re-discovered. As parts and pieces are being used up, other parts are being found and identified.


 
Oct 13, 2021     Going forwards by going backwards. - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
It felt like I accomplished nothing today. I suppose it had to be done but it didn't feel like progress.

While reviewing some of the photos Ray had taken when he disassembled the airplane, I recognized the bolts to mount the elevator horn. They are approx 3/16" diameter and a few inches long. What made them recognizable was the unique head on them. It is much thicker than a typical bolt head. I found these bolts in my collection of parts and discovered some rust on them. I was hopeful that it was simply surface rust so I put the bolts in a bath of rust remover. The rust remover is wonderful stuff available from the aviation section of Canadian Tire. It's called Krud Kutter by Rustoleum and it doesn't take long for the rust to be removed. A few minutes bath and a light scrubbing with an old toothbrush got most of the rust off. Some rust was a little more tenacious, so I dipped them in again. In the end it was a couple of baths and some light scrubbing to discover that there was some deeper pitting on the bolts. Maybe they're good enough to mount a handle on a BBQ or something non-critical like that, but not good for aviation purposes. Good-bye bolts.

While I was at it, I considered I'd better install the rod ends which hold the spar pins into the fuselage. I've mentioned them before, but they are a Dalotel solution, that is, they are an overly complex solution to a simple problem. They are beautifully machined pieces but I should have installed them before I put the aluminum fuselage cross plates in place. To get room to install the rod ends meant I had to remove many of the interior pieces I'd already installed. Fortunately I didn't have to remove the control sticks and associated assembly but just about everything else. It would have been so much easier had I installed them right after painting the frame. I'll know better for next time. Wait! What?


 
Oct 12, 2021     Put the brakes on the brakes - (1 hour)       Category: Controls
With the empennage removed, it was back to the brakes. I temporarily assembled things again and was looking at the locations of everything and the clearances. While looking at the potential routing of the brake lines in the wings, I had an "Aha" moment. Well maybe it wasn't an "Aha" moment, it was more of an "Oh s$%t" moment.

Thinking about the brake line routing made me have a closer look at the brake assembly. With the rudder pedal pushed full travel, I realized the brake master cylinder will be in the way of the landing gear retract torque tube. See attached picture. The torque tube comes out of the hole indicated by the yellow arrow.

I was so busy considering the fitment of the master cylinder to the rudder pedal and its clearances to the seat and the floor, the leverage and travel required to provide sufficient braking power with acceptable foot pressure that I had completely forgotten about the torque tube.

Hmmm. More head scratching required.


 
Oct 12, 2021     Further fitment of empennage - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage
Spent more time getting the empennage to fit better and line up. Discovered that the leading edge of the rudder needs some filler pieces to have a straight and consistent gap along the hinge line.

Also discovered a piece of original fairing to close the gap between the stabilizer and the fuselage. At least, I expect that is what this piece is. There's only one but it fit the LH side perfectly. I also found what looks to be the fairing between the fin and the stabilizer. No pics of that.

Doing some further research tonight, I discovered a photo that I'd seen before but long forgotten. This was taken by Ray when he first received the project. I'm grateful he was so diligent with his photos. The picture shows some of the blockage used to support the stabilizer. See attached. I'll have to dig into the collection of parts and pull these blocks to test fit everything. Again.


 
Oct 11, 2021     Mounted empennage and connected controls - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage
Quite a bit of time spent today and not a lot to show for it. Since I'm ordering a new set of replacement rudder cables, I figured mounting the empennage and confirming the length of rudder cables would be prudent. They are correct. While I was at it, I couldn't resist connecting the elevator pushrod to the elevator. This required assembling a few of the pieces that hadn't been assembled before. While there's not a lot to show for it, it provided a good opportunity to confirm some things, and learn many things.
The stabilizer was originally bolted to the rear fuselage with four 8 mm bolts. The original bolts didn't make it in the years of storage and transfer of the project. They are long gone. Fortunately 8 mm is almost exactly 5/16". So some AN5 bolts will be used instead. Resting the stabilizer right on the fuselage longerons allows the bolt holes to line up beautifully. Unfortunately having the stab on the longerons prevents the elevator from moving full travel, so some shims need to be mounted between the longeron and the underside of the stab. There are no drawings for this detail and looking closely at old pictures of the plane, I can't see anything that clearly illustrates this. The one thing that is obvious from some of the old pictures is a large gap between the top of the stabilizer and the lower edge of the fin. A simple fairing would have closed the gap up nicely. I guess that wasn't a concern by the time the plane was finally built. See attached vintage pictures. Regardless, this means I have a lot of room to raise the stabilizer. I shimmed the stabilizer with what started as two of layers of 1/2" thick foam. After experimenting, I think I'll only shim it up 1/2" total. I'll build some shims out of aluminum blocks and some aluminum plate as saddles.

Another thing that took a lot of time was getting the proper travel on the elevator. I found in some old notes that the elevator travel was 30 degrees down from neutral and 20 degrees up from neutral. The fact that the down travel was 1.5 times greater than the up travel is odd. I played with the length of the pushrods and got the travel to be close to 25 degrees in either direction. Intuitively that just seems better. I got my younger son to sit in the cockpit and move the control stick back and forth while I measured travel.


 
Oct 07, 2021     Submitted paperwork to MD-RA for Pre-cover inspection Category: Inspection
 
Oct 07, 2021     Rudder pedals - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Started work on the brake pedals. I had created some rough versions out of cheap aluminum earlier in the summer and used them as a template for the new pieces. Installed bushings for brake pedals.


 
Oct 07, 2021     Pitot tube and heel plates - (1 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Reinstalled pitot tube lines in fuselage.

Screwed heel plates onto floor boards with Phillips head screws. I had temporarily used Robertson head screws which wouldn't have been very original or credible.


 
Oct 02, 2021     New rudder cables - (1 hour)       Category: Controls
After a long break on the project I started back on it by installing the recently ordered new, custom made, rudder cables. It should have been easy but I ran into some frustrations. For some reason I ordered 5/32" diameter cable. I should have ordered the cables as 1/8". I was tempted to use the 5/32" cable except that it doesn't fit into the original pulleys that are mounted in the rear of the fuselage. The pulleys are truly unnecessary since it's on a straight run of the cables. However, they were there, so I want to use them. I installed the 5/32" cable anyway to get a feel of the layout and reinstalled the bakelite bushings from the original cable run.

One of the interesting Dalotel features was that some of the bushings were screwed and then safety wired in place. The safety wire ran through the edge of the bakelite bushing. See attached picture.

I'm now working with A/C Spruce to get the correct sized rudder cables.


 
Aug 12, 2021     New firewall - (2 hours)       Category: Firewall
Cut out new firewall. Working with SST is slow and hard on tools. Angle grinder works well for the initial cut but to smooth the contours and clean the edges requires some patience with the files. Drilling holes in the SST is hard on drill bits. The procedure is to go slow with a lot of pressure. Mounted the firewall and then match drilled the bolt holes for the engine mount. There are two AN5 bolts for each of the four corners of the engine mount, so eight 5/16" holes. I ruined only one drill bit. I consider that a success. ;-)

Since I won't be using the original engine, I won't drill or cut any more holes in the firewall until the engine is mounted and the locations for passthroughs are obvious.


 
Aug 10, 2021     Checked over the firewall - (1 hour)       Category: Firewall
Reviewed the original firewall and identified pass throughs. Picked up some SST from local supplier for new firewall. Original firewall was a sandwich of two layers of thin aluminum with an asbestos-type material in between. Both layers of the original aluminum were damaged and there's hardly anything left of the asbestos-type material, only some pieces and particles where it was glued to the aluminum.
The original sandwich firewall required spacers and blockage to prevent it from being crushed between the frame and engine mount and where anything was bolted to the firewall.
I'll use a single sheet of 0.024" SST instead. It's simpler and safer.


 
Aug 06, 2021     Reviewed fuel system and tank - (2 hours)       Category: Fuel System
Since I'm waiting for a large shipment of parts from A/C Spruce to continue with the brakes and controls, I dove into the fuel system. I had a good look at the fuel tank. It's a very complex assembly with a lot of welding to it. It's a single unit but there are 2 separate tanks. The upper tank feeds the lower and the lower tank feeds the engine. There is a fuel pickup at the bottom of the lower tank. For aerobatics, the fuel pickup is a flop tube in the lower tank. This is a common arrangement on aerobatic aircraft that can fly inverted. This allows the engine to draw fuel regardless of orientation of the airplane. At least, until the lower tank is consumed. If there's still fuel in the upper tank, the fuel will drain into the lower tank when the plane is upright again. Most planes that have this arrangement have two separate tanks with external plumbing to connect the two. In typical Dalotel style, this was done a more complex way. The tanks are built as one unit and connected internally. There's a lot of complex welding with tubing and stiffeners/baffles welded in the tank. All beautifully done but much more expensive and complex than it needs to be.

I also had a good look at the fuel selector valve. Applying some lung pressure to the ports I was able to determine that it's a three way valve with an upper port, a lower port, and a common port out the side. Interestingly, this selector valve doesn't use a ball valve to select between the ports. Instead it uses a piston system. The valve pushes a piston to close the respective inlet. When the valve is in the middle position, the pistons on either inlet are closed. That's right. The valve has a port open at one extreme, all ports are closed in the middle position, and then the other port is open again at the other extreme. Learning this, it's not surprising that the engine was accidentally shut off in flight when the pilot was switching the fuel selector. Why would you go from an operational position, to a closed position, to another operational position. It doesn't make sense to me. For that matter, there's no reason whatsoever to draw fuel from anything other than the flop tube pickup. I think I'll simplify the fuel selector system when it comes down to it.

Tested the fuel level with the indicator on the panel. The system still works. See attached pics.

Riveted to the upper cowl surface of the fuel tank, so that it is visible inside the airplane is a placard. See attached pic. With a non-French keyboard, the wording is this:
Cet aeronef voie sous le regime du certificat de navigabilite restreitn. Il ne repond pas necessairement aux conditions de delivrance du certificate de navigabilite normal. Son utilisation dans unbut lucratif est interdite. Arrete du 23-10-62
Roughly translated, it means:
This aircraft operates under the restricted certificate of airworthiness. It does not necessarily meet the conditions for issuance of the certificate of normal airworthiness. Its use for profit is prohibited. Judgment of 23-10-62

This is not much different than the placard that we're required to display in amateur built aircraft in Canada. The following is required and will be displayed in this plane once completed since it is being restored/rebuilt as an amateur built aircraft.

YOU FLY IN THIS AIRCRAFT AT YOUR OWN RISK.
THIS AIRCRAFT DOES NOT COMPLY WITH INTERNATIONALLY
RECOGNIZED STANDARDS.

VOUS VOLEZ A BORD DE CET AERONEF A VOS PROPRES RISQUES.
CET AERONEF N'EST PAS CONFORME AUX
NORMES RECONNUES A L'ECHELLE INTERNATIONALE.


 
Aug 02, 2021     Brake Pedals Category: Controls
Brake master cylinders and second axle arrived from Matco. Had to pay taxes and duties.
 
Jul 21, 2021     Rudder pedal and Brake work - (1 hour)       Category: Controls
Removed toe strap and associated mounting from RH rudder pedal. Much simpler now, having learnt how the pieces were assembled with the LH pedal. Sandblasted both pedals to remove any loose paint/grime. Painted pedals to prep for reassembly.


 
Jul 14, 2021     Rudder pedal and Brake work - (1 hour) Category: Controls
Did some further exploratory work on the pivot for the brake pedal. Since there aren't any drawings of the pedals and their internals, I wasn't sure what was inside originally holding the toe straps in place. As I worked up to a progressively larger hole on either side, I learnt that the straps were held in place by an aluminum shaft that ran through the centre of the rudder pedal tubing. Once this was confirmed the obvious solution would be to enlarge the hole to fit a oilite bushing that a long AN4 bolt can pass through and the brake pedal can pivot on.
 
Jul 01, 2021     Installed carpeting and heel plates - (1.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Removed some earlier carpet that I wasn't happy with and installed new carpet that fits better. Installed heel plates under the rudder pedals.


 
Jun 24, 2021     Rework and installation - (3 hours)       Category: Fuselage
I wasn't happy with the fitment of the flooring in the plane. I removed what I had previously installed and put in new pieces. Of course, I then had to take them out to fit some additional pieces for the spar connector plates. These were some new tapered bushings that a buddy manufactured for me. Each wing is held in place with two large pins. Each pin passes through the spar connector plates and two tapered bushings that fit into the machined aluminum fuselage frame truss. Doing the math, that means there are 8 tapered bushings required. Unfortunately, only 5 survived the accident and subsequent years of storage and shipment. My buddy also manufactured one of the aluminum end caps that was missing. I finished this piece up by rounding some of the ends and primed it.
I installed all the bushings and installed some bolts and spacers that hold the fuselage frame truss together. Once that was done, I was able to permanently connect the front and rear control sticks. This required disassembling the yokes a few times to ensure that everything was properly engaged.
It doesn't look like much was done since last entry, but that's because it was a lot of back and forth. Progress is not always in the forward direction.


 
Jun 16, 2021     Brake Pedals - (1.5 hours)       Category: Controls
Did some more conceptualizing of the toe brakes. Manufactured a mock up of one using some non-aviation aluminum. Checking clearances and operation in the tight confines of the fuselage.

Ordered the master cylinders from Matco today.


 
Jun 16, 2021     Floor boards secured - (1 hour) Category: Fuselage
Received a shipment from A/C Spruce today. In the shipment was a load of tinnerman nuts to secure the floor boards. Installed the nuts and secured the front floors.
 
Jun 15, 2021     Brake Pedals - (1 hour)       Category: Controls
Removed the over-the-foot strap from the rear rudder pedals. Drilled out the aluminum shaft that the straps were mounted to. Going to use this as the pivot point for the toe brakes.


 
Jun 10, 2021     Brakes and Interior - (4.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Spent a lot of time looking at the rudder pedals and original brake assemblies. The original brake master cylinders won't work for the new brakes. They don't have sufficient volume displacement or achieve sufficient pressures to adequately brake the airplane. Installed some of the interior to get a better understanding of the room and clearances to mount new master cylinders. Should I try to create heel brakes like the original Dalotel or should I try to create some toe brakes similar to the ever popular and well proven RV series. In the end, I think I'm going to go with toe brakes. I'll remove the pointless foot straps from the original rudder pedals and use that area for the toe brakes. This will require some modifications to the rudder pedals but it will be the most effective, with the least amount of modification.

While I was determining clearance for the brakes, I decided to test fit some of the other interior pieces and check my fit in the plane. This was the first time I sat in the plane. I knew that it would be tight but I needed to have some of the interior in to fully appreciate the fit. As someone who's just approaching 6'0", the rear seat will JUST work. I won't be able to sit properly in the front seat and be able to close the canopy. The front seat will accept someone up to 5'9" comfortably or someone 5' 10" if they slouch.

To do this, I built up a new rear seat. The original rear seat didn't survive the accident or subsequent years of storage. The front seat is a nicely formed plastic tub with some padded vinyl. It nicely cradles my backside but it uses up a couple of inches of vertical space. I made the rear seat as simple as possible. It's made from some scrap 4.5 mm plywood used in the spar construction. The back is connected to the seat bottom using a piano hinge. The upper end of the back rests against a cross tube.

Both seat will leave the pilot or co-pilot with very little head room. We'll likely have to wear in-ear headsets rather than an over-ear style.


 
Jun 09, 2021     Floorboards and misc - (3.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
A lot of time spent but not a lot to show for it. Mounted some nutplates in the fuselage. Unfortunately the rivet spacing of the original nutplates doesn't match anything that is currently available. So to mount new nutplates required fitment, drilling, and countersinking. Once those were in, I carpeted the front floorboards and mounted the original heel skid plates in the same position as the original. This took a lot longer than one would expect.


 
Jun 08, 2021     Floorboards - (1 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Using original floorboards and carpet as templates, cut new floorboards for the forward two floor areas.


 
Jun 07, 2021     Fuel system review - (1 hour)       Category: Fuel System
Installed original fuel valve and connected to switching pushrod. Reviewed remaining fuel system components. Not sure that I'm going to reuse any of them. Only the Bendix fuel pump has regular fittings on it (NPT fittings in this case). All other components and lines have banjo fittings with what I'm assuming to be metric fittings. AN fittings and NPT fittings would not thread up to them. Whether I can source replacements for the metric banjo fittings or not will affect how authentic I'll want the plane to be.

Considering that the cause of the crash 40 years ago was because the fuel selector switch was put in the wrong position mid-flight, I might elect to remove it and simplify and modernize the entire fuel system. To be decided...


 
Jun 07, 2021     Floorboards - (1 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Pulled the old flooring from storage and had a look at it. A couple of pieces of plywood could be reused if desired but the majority of the ply and the entire carpeting is only good for templates. Reviewed fit and installation to understand how it all goes together. Thanks to Ray for keeping all these pieces and taking so many photos when he took it apart.


 
Jun 06, 2021     Installed pedals and engine controls - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Assembled the newly painted forward rudder pedals and controls. Installed the brass bushings that the rudder controls pass over. I had recently polished them since they had become dark and burnished. Couldn't get all the staining off of them but they look pretty good now.

Started sorting out and installing engine controls. Throttle lever, mixture control, fuel selector control. Of course, without an engine, it's just to understand the layout and operation of the controls for now.

Got to see the recently painted cockpit floor panels. Most notably the panel that covers over the yoke controls and manual retract controls behind the rear seat.


 
May 27, 2021     Fittings and seat rail supports - (1.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
One of the brackets that connects one of the seat rail supports to the frame had some deep corrosion. This corrosion was causing the original aluminum bracket to expand and exfoliate. I made a duplicate of the bracket with some aluminum I had leftover from previous projects.

This new bracket allowed me to fit and install all the seat rail supports into the frame.


 
May 26, 2021     Rudder pedal and Brake work - (4 hours)       Category: Controls
Spent a lot of time cleaning up the brake assemblies. I was able to undo the awkwardly located brake reservoir caps. It's no surprise that they were custom made for the plane. They have a tiny breather hole down the centre and a ball within the shank of the cap itself. When the caps are inverted, the ball drops into the way of the breather hole, preventing the brake fluid from leaking out. In normal orientation the vent is open allowing the reservoir to breath.

I also spent some time removing the paint and surface rust from the front rudder pedal assemblies. I'll paint them next.

While I was at it, I couldn't resist polishing the brass fittings that connect the rudder pedals to the bar. They had 50 years of oxidation and grime on them but they just begged to be polished up.


 
May 25, 2021     Rudder pedals - (1.5 hours)       Category: Controls
Spent some time reviewing the unique arrangement and operation of the rudder pedals and brakes. The front pedals are supported by a floor mounted bar that pivots at the centreline of the fuselage. The front pedals thread into each end of this bar and each side has a tube that extends back, parallel to the lower longeron. Each tube passes through the main spar support, where the rear rudder pedals mount to the tube. The rudder cables simply connect to the rear rudder pedals. The brakes are heel operated and the master cylinder of each brake is mounted inside the previously mentioned tubes.

Of course, each of these pieces is unique and custom built for this plane. For example, the front rudder pedals are connected to the bar through beautifully machined brass fittings. Each side is threaded in opposite direction. That is, the LH side has LH thread and the RH side has RH threads. The brass fittings have been machined out of the centre so they aren't too heavy. The brake master cylinders are custom built as are the heel pads for the brakes. I'm going to see if I can rebuild these cylinders and reuse them. I'm hopeful they are operational and provide a suitable pressure and fluid displacement to operate the Matco brake callipers properly. We shall see.

A couple of interesting points. The rudder pedals have heavy rubber straps to secure your feet to the pedals. These straps are one of the few items, besides the engine and the instruments that were obviously outsourced. They were provided by Habasit in Switzerland. Habasit is a belting company that still exists.
Another interesting point is the design of the brake master cylinder. The tubing that makes up the rear pedal assembly appears to also act as the brake fluid reservoir. Brilliant! Except that the fitting to fill the reservoir is on the inside of the rudder pedal frame and making it difficult to access, and it's on a vertical section of tubing. So to fill the reservoir one has to either use a syringe with a flexible piece of tubing and some rags to collect the inevitable spillage, or one will have to orient the plane on each wingtip while one fills each side.


 
May 25, 2021     Painted seat support panels - (.5 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Sanded the damaged paint from the panels that cover the seat support. Repainted.

These will install under the seats, over top the seat supports that were recently sandblasted and painted.


 
May 25, 2021     Cleaned up manual retract assembly - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Disassembled and cleaned up the manual retract assembly. Re-lubed and reassembled.


 
May 25, 2021     Sandblasted seat supports - (2 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Forgot to take the seat supports when I sandblasted the fuselage frame so I had to sandblast them in a small sandblasting booth. The booth is so small and low powered that the four pieces took longer to do than the entire fuselage frame. I had to touch them up with a sanding flap wheel to prep them for painting.


 
May 22, 2021     Further reassembly - (2.5 hours)       Category: Controls
Installed control sticks. Rear (primary) stick is installed permanently. Front stick is installed temporarily for now.

Fabricated some missing pieces for later use.

Started identifying and assembling other cockpit pieces. Namely seat rails, gear retract motor and hand crank, brackets and screws to mount motor and other misc. pieces. Just like the gear retract mechanisms in the wings, the hand crank assembly is beautifully made and turns as smooth as silk.

There's an interesting label on the retract motor.

Entretien du moteur.
Balais. Doivent etre remplaces avant leur usure complete. s'assurer que les balais neufs coulissent librement avec un faible jeu dans les porte-balais. Leur qualite doit etre la meme que celle balais d'origine.

Which translates to:

Motor maintenance.
Brushes. Must be replaced before they are completely worn out. Make sure that the new brushes slide freely with little play in the brush holders. Their quality should be the same as the original brushes.

Basically, don't let the motor wear out and replace worn parts with good ones.

The label is not much use since it's on the underside of the motor which is mounted underneath the front seat. Not too likely to be seen.

I'd checked the motor when I first got the project and it's going to need work. It's not working right now.


 
May 20, 2021     Refinished Control Sticks - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Scraped paint from control sticks. There were some areas that were exposed and showed some surface rust. Removing the paint showed that the sticks had some surface rust over almost the entire area. I wonder if the sticks were properly prepared prior to original painting or if they even had a slight bit of rust on them when they were painted.

Removed the paint, removed the rust, fully prepped and painted them.

The upper section of the forward stick is spun anodized aluminum and didn't need any painting. It looks like the stick was made to be removable by removing a bolt and pulling the upper section out. Unfortunately the previously mentioned rust has seized the aluminum upper in the steel lower and I couldn't remove it for anything. It wouldn't budge. So, it's staying in.


 
May 16, 2021     Control sticks and bearings - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Spent some time checking the electrical output of the rear control stick. There's a nice military grade connector with 6 terminals coming out the bottom of the stick. The stick has switch at the top of the grip for elevator trim and a PTT switch on the side of the grip. All terminals seem to work but the logic of the switches suggest that the trim control went into a relay before going to the trim servo. More inspection and discovery to come on that.

Installed one of the outer bearings that supports the control rod. Temporarily installed the forward control stick. I have to get some bushings machined up to fit into the mainspar support. Once they are in, the mainspar connector plate can be installed fully, which will then allow the control stick to install.

Installed the bushings for the rear spar into the rear spar connector plate. They were removed prior to the fuselage being sandblasted and painted.


 
May 13, 2021     Pushrod reassembly - (1 hour)       Category: Controls
Put the newly refurbished pushrods into the plane. Pulled the rearmost pushrod down from storage. Unlike the pushrods in the cockpit which are made of steel and painted black, this beauty is aluminum and still has its factory paint. Interestingly, it's the only piece in the plane painted with this green paint.
The pushrod is made of a single tube and is tapered on both ends. It's surprisingly heavy for its size. It must have been made from a fairly heavy walled tube.
Cleaned and relubed the rod end bearings on either end. Again, with the old grease and grime removed and newly greased, they are smooth as silk.


 
May 11, 2021     Pushrod refurb - (2 hours)       Category: Controls
Stripped the peeling paint from the two of the three elevator pushrods. These are the pushrods that run between the control sticks and the rear of the cockpit. In some areas the original paint was peeling in large flakes, in other areas the paint was adhering beautifully. I spent some time scraping and sanding these pushrods to remove the paint and some surface rust that had developed. Prepped and painted the pushrods and control housing. I didn't take any pictures of how they looked before but here are some after shots.
Rebuilt some bearings and ball joints. Fortunately all could be reused. With a thorough cleaning and relubing, they are smooth as silk.


 
May 09, 2021     Finished painting and started reassembly - (2 hours)       Category: Fuselage
I finished doing touch ups on the newly painted fuselage frame. It's a lot of work going over the frame ensuring that it is fully covered in paint in all the nooks and crannies of the frame.

This is a big day because that means things are starting to go back on the frame. Not off...

I reassembled the aileron control linkage and mounted it to the frame.


 
May 03, 2021     Prep and painting - (2 hours) Category: Fuselage
Spent some time finishing up areas that the sandblasting missed.

Started painting the frame.
 
Apr 30, 2021     Sandblasted fuselage - (1 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Took the fuselage to a DIY sandblasting facility. It's a large yard with many stations that one get's to use to sandblast their project. It took less than an hour to remove over 99% of the paint and fabric remnants.

With the paint removed I discovered the some of the tubes were poorly made at the tube factory. The seam down the length of them wasn't fully welded. This would have been noticed when the plane was originally built since they welded right over the joint. They weren't worried about the poor weld quality so neither am I.

This is a good time to show a detailed picture of the cluster of tubes coming together. As one would expect on this airplane, the technique they used was rather unique.


 
Apr 24, 2021     Weld repairs and such - (3 hours)       Category: Fuselage
My dad came over and welded the longeron repair doublers in place.

Afterwards, we worked and re-worked, and re-worked the forward canopy arch to get it to match the middle and rear arch. This involved jacks, ratchets and clamps and bars to get it into shape. We're pretty close.


 
Apr 19, 2021     Canopy Arch - (1.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
The cockpit has three identical canopy arches that the overhead plexiglass forms around. The forward arch was bent when the plane flipped over in its accident. The middle and the rear arches were untouched. I made a template of the rear canopy arch out of 3/4" plywood. This will be used to correct the front canopy arch.

I removed the paint and surface rust from the longerons in preparation for welding the repairs to. I also removed the paint from the bends and kinks in the forward canopy arch. This is prep for the weld repairs on the arch.


 
Mar 23, 2021     Longeron repair doublers - (1 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Made some doublers to weld over some damages on the lower, LH longeron. Cut the doublers from the curved leading edge of a 0.032 streamlined tubing. This provided a very close curve to wrap around the longeron. Removed paint and grime from the cut tubing. Clamped and beat the repair doublers to fit the tubing for welding.


 
Mar 23, 2021     Frame prep for sandblasting - (2 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Spent a couple of hours scraping the last remnants of fabric from the fuselage. Also spent some time masking some of the areas to protect them from sandblasting.


 
Mar 17, 2021     Aileron Control Assembly - (2.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Was able to fabricate a tool to allow removal of the collar. This allowed removal of the aluminum cage, which in turn, allowed removal of the control tube.

With the parts removed from the fuselage, I was able to give them a lacquer thinner bath and a gentle scrubbing to clean off all the grease, dirt, and grime. As always, the parts underneath the dirt are beautiful pieces of work. Some of the steel pieces had some light surface rust. Gave them a bath in a rust remover and then a full cleaning and surface prep. Scrubbed the control tube and repainted it. Cleaned and re-greased all the bearings and reinstalled them into the cage.

Temporarily installed the freshly cleaned and lubed torque linkages to the control tube. Discovered that the custom bolts that connect the torque linkages to the control tube are very slightly different sized, by 0.009 of an inch. This difference establishes an upper and a lower bolt, and it establishes a left and a right hand torque linkage by their corresponding mounting holes. Well done Dalotel.


 
Mar 13, 2021     Disassembly of Aileron Control Assembly - (1 hour)       Category: Fuselage
Started disassembly of aileron control assembly. Huh? There is a complex assembly that takes the side to side motion of the control stick to make the ailerons move up and down. The base of the control stick connects to a tube that is mounted under the seats along the centreline of the fuselage. The elevator push rod runs through the centre of this tube as is typically done in aircraft, but this tube is mounted on some bearings to allow it to "lean" side to side. This leaning motion must convert into rotational motion that is transferred to the aileron torque tubes. All the components were covered in grease and years of dirt (and some paint). To remove the assembly from the fuselage requires some disassembly. After some preliminary cleaning I discovered that a collar is threaded onto the previously mentioned tube. The collar is about 2.75" in diameter and is mounted inside an aluminum cage with very little clearance. The cage supports the tube's bearing and it is bolted to the rear spar cross plate. Unfortunately the assembly can't be removed from the fuselage until this collar is removed and the cage can be pulled off the end of the tube. There are 4 small holes drilled in the outer circumference of this collar which allows a tool to hook into the collar and unscrew from the tube. All the grease and dirt have long ago seized the collar and without the tool, the collar wouldn't budge.


 
Mar 06, 2021     Continuing Disassembly and cleaning - (4 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Removed main spar wing mounting plates. Cleaned them off. Including the old tape and glue where Dalotel had installed some strain gauges during testing. Sadly, the data from that testing is long gone, but the evidence of the testing is still on the frame. I'm glad they are undamaged as they would be costly to replicate. Although, there is a drawing of it. One of the few finished items that matches the drawings.

Removed the threaded rod ends that connect the main spar pins. The rod ends thread into a threaded sleeve that subsequently threads into some tubing in the frame. Once again, a lot of work to make something complex that doesn't need to be. Check out the photos. The rod end has a bearing secured into it allowing for some directional play to align with the spar pins and LH male threads on the shank. The sleeve has LH female threads to accept the rod end but it has RH male threads on the outside of the sleeve. Once it's threaded into the tubing in the frame, turning the sleeve allows the rod end to extend or retract as required. These pieces were all covered in old grease and dirt and required disassembly and some scrubbing in a lacquer thinner bath to get cleaned up and ready for use again.

Removed a long bolt from the floor of the front cockpit. I believe it's a pivot point for a rudder pedal bar. No drawings to confirm but it may be more evident later. The bolt has an aluminum tube with some shoulders machined into the ends. Each end fit into a bimetallic washers. The washer are steel on one side but have a sintered bearing material on the other. These bearing washers and the wear marks on the aluminum tube all suggest some bearing type load. Follow up to initial post. Yes, it's a bushing for a rudder pedal bar. Found a photo taken by Ray showing the assembly in exploded view. Thanks for taking all those pictures Ray. They're more helpful than most of the drawings.

Removed the last of the fuel lines.

Started removing the complex assembly for the control stick base. It allows the side-side motion of the control stick to translate into rotational motion for the aileron torque tubes. Once the base is removed, the rear spar mounting plates can be removed.


 
Mar 04, 2021     More disassembly and discoveries - (2.5 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Cleaned up some of the parts that have recently been removed.

Removed rudder cables and fairleads. Rudder cables and turnbuckles are shot but the remaining parts are good for reuse.

Cleaned up and lubricated the rudder cable pulleys. These pulleys were very stiff with age. Used some WD-40 sprayed through the bearings to remove the old grease and dirt. Repeated many times. Coated outside of bearings with penetrating oil allowing the oil to seep into the bearings. Repeated many times until the oil coming through was clean. Applied a final coat of heavier oil. The bearings are adequate now. There's some very slight unevenness to their rotation but really the pulleys are unnecessary where they're located. A simple fairlead would be adequate here. Before I got the pulleys rotating, I considered replacing them with new ones. Unfortunately, these pulleys have a unique dimensions and can't be sourced from AirCraft Spruce. For example, they rotate on 6 mm bolts. That's close to 1/4 inch but not quite... So I got the originals working sufficiently for their purpose.

I also cleaned up the rudder cable extensions. There are some beautifully machined links that are about 6 inches long that connect the rudder cable to the rudder horn. Why were they created instead of using longer cables? I don't know. Maybe I'll figure it out later. Maybe not. These links and their bolts were all covered in splashes of paint, coats of dirt and oil and just a real mess. I thought they may be rusted. 5 minutes in a bath of lacquer thinner and a quick brushing and they look brand new.

Removed the last of the pitot static system. The static port is beautifully machined from aluminum. Another example of an expensive, custom made fitting. Van's RV kits simply use a large headed pulled rivet with the rivet shank pulled all the way through. Dalotel's solution: $50. Van's solution: 10 cents.

I also took the latch apart. Again, more complexity. The ball handle is composed of a ball on the inside that threads onto a custom machined anodized aluminum pin. The pin has a tapered shoulder at the base of the threads. The tapered shoulder fits into a matching tapered socket in the latch plate. The opposite side of the latch plate is where the ball screws in. There is a shoulder on the plate that the ball fits on. Did they press the shoulder from the opposite side or did they machine the latch plate down everywhere to expose that shoulder? Either way, more complexity and cost...


 
Feb 27, 2021     Fuselage inspection and prep - (3 hours)       Category: Fuselage
Moved fuselage to shop and started removing last of the items still attached to it. This provides a good understanding of the wiring and system layout. Made some interesting discoveries.

For example, previously I'd described the canopy latch and couldn't fathom why the bolts the latches were mounted on were custom made and with LH threads. Upon further inspection, I'd discovered that the front canopy latch was secured to the custom bolt. (The rear latch was damaged in the accident and the latch was spinning loose on the bolt). The latches were designed to be secured to the custom bolts. When inside the cockpit, the latch is rotated 90 degrees clockwise to engage the latch to the canopy frame. Since the latch is secured to the bolt, the bolt rotates with the latch. Since the bolt has LH threads, that clockwise turn means the bolt is unscrewing from the boss that is welded to the frame. Since it's unscrewing, it actually cinches the canopy frame tight as it secures it. Conversely, to open the canopy, you rotate the latch 90 degrees counter clockwise. Doing that screws the bolt into the boss, taking some of the tension off the canopy, allowing it to open. Aha! So that's why the custom threaded bolt. Like many of the things on this plane, there was an easy way, and then there was Dalotel's way...

Removed the wiring, labeling it and where it crossed members of the frame. The electrical bundle was held in place with some stretchy plastic belts. Today we'd use "zip ties" but these things are like belts with a whole bunch of holes in them. They wrap around the frame and the electrical bundle and a small plastic pin passes through two holes in the belt to hold it all together. The belts are still flexible and stretchy but all the pins broke during disassembly. I plan to make some new pins on the lathe to allow me to reuse the belts.


 
Feb 16, 2021     More cleanup - (3 hours)       Category: Canopy
Removed last canopy rail from fuselage. Removed tube/tab assembly from this rail and cleaned everything up.

Finished cleaning up other pieces.

After much thought, I've decided to rebuild the plane without the canopy jettison feature. It will be much simpler to rebuild this way and since I'm not going to get it cleared for aerobatics, there's no need for that feature. Most GA aircraft don't have a jettison-able canopy or door so this won't be an issue. The biggest reason I'm going to skip the jettison feature is one of the tube/tab assemblies is missing. The plane requires 4 for the two canopy sections. This piece is so complex and well beyond my manufacturing capabilities. I'll use the existing adjustment holes that are in the canopy rail to screw the hinge to. This will allow the canopy to open and close exactly as the original did. In fact, it will still look entirely original. I'll have the jettison cables and latches operational but they won't activate the tube/tab assembly. It will be like a gun in a restored warbird. Externally the gun is fully restored but the internals are removed or modified to prevent firing.

The jettison handles are another work of art. They are machined aluminum with some spring loaded ball bearings on either end to hold into the edge of the canopy frame. The red anodizing on the handles have long since faded. I've disassembled the handles from the chains and removed the ball bearings and springs so that I can re-anodize the handle. I removed the grease and rust from the chains and the supporting pins within the canopy frame. Lastly, I applied some new bright red to the engraved lettering.

The engraving says EJECTION VERRIERE meaning Glass Ejection and 1/4 DE TOUR ET TIRER meaning 1/4 Turn and Pull.


 
Feb 14, 2021     Canopy latching mechanism and cleanup. - (1 hour)       Category: Canopy
In keeping with the progress of yesterday, I did some more exploring and experimenting on the operation of the canopy structure.

As explained yesterday, the canopy hinges from the RH side of the cockpit, overhead to a frame on the LH side of the cockpit. This frame opens outwards and upwards, lifting the canopy out of the way for entrance into the plane. Loosely fitting the frame into the rear cockpit it appeared that some parts of the latch were missing. After some head scratching and comparing it to the forward cockpit, I realized that the latch in the rear cockpit had been bent. The latching mechanism is actually quite simple. The latch is simply an aluminum tab mounted on the fuselage below the canopy rail. The tab rotates about 90 degrees into a slot in the frame holding the canopy closed. There is an additional safety latch that engages preventing the main latch from rotating out. The safety latch has a light spring that holds it either open or closed.

Surprisingly, the latching mechanism is only accessible from inside the airplane. As originally built, there are no provisions to latch or unlatch the canopy from outside the airplane. This certainly won't meet today's safety requirements. All aircraft require the ability to open from the outside. And it's not practical from the security perspective.

I have some ideas for some simple and tasteful modifications to permit the opening from the outside.

In typical Dalotel design, the latch rotates around a custom built threaded screw. The screw passes from the inside of the cockpit, through a threaded boss that's welded to the fuselage frame. The screw has a very thin head so there's little chance of catching on it in the cockpit. The head is so thin, there is no depth for a screwdriver slot or socket. Since there is no slot on the head, the end of the shank is slotted. This means one passes a screwdriver through the threaded boss to reach the screw at the opposite end. The screw is about 3/8" diameter (yet to be measured, and there are no drawings for these parts) but the really strange thing is it has LH threads. Why in the world would they have made these screws and bosses LH threads? The latch only rotates about 90 degrees and for every 1/4 turn one way, it has to be turned 1/4 the opposite way. It wouldn't make a difference if it's LH or RH threads.

After figuring out how some of these pieces worked, I spent some time cleaning up some of the grime and oxidation that have built up over the 50 years. There's a copper spring tab that's part of the canopy jettison latch. I gave it a slight polishing yesterday but it was still black. Today I gave it the once over with the dremel tool with a wire brush. It's cleaned up so nicely it's got some bling.


 
Feb 13, 2021     Canopy review and discovery - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy
After a long hiatus on the project, I'm easing my way back in with some small items. That, and the shop is still filled with my DR-107 that I'd worked on over the winter so I don't have a lot of room right now.

It seemed like a great opportunity to look at the canopy. There are no real drawings for the canopy but its operation is mentioned in a couple of the articles written when the plane was introduced. In some aspects it's quite neat. In other aspects, it's mind boggling. Rube Goldberg had nothing on Michel Dalotel.

The canopy is simply a flat sheet of plexiglass secured on either side to the fuselage and bent overhead. It's no different than a piece of paper held at opposite ends. Bringing the ends closer together causes the paper to arc upwards or downwards. With the Dalotel, the plexiglass is secured to a hinge on the RH side of the cockpit and bends overtop the cockpit to a hinge secured to a frame on the LH side of the cockpit. The frame on the LH side pivots 2/3 of the way up the canopy side. As the frame is closed, the sheet of plexiglass bends around a ledge ahead and behind the pilot's head. This ledge provides the correct curvature of the sheet of plexiglass and when the frame is closed and latched, the plexiglass is snug. To open the canopy, the frame is rotated outwards and upwards causing the plexiglass to straighten out as the frame travels. Simple and elegant just like the articles from 1969 described.

The complex part of it comes into the ability to jettison the canopy in the event of an emergency. Most hinged canopies use a hinge pin that can be quickly removed by pulling a handle in an emergency. Not on the Dalotel. The previously mentioned hinges on either side of the canopy are not bolted or riveted to the canopy frame. Rather, the hinges are secured to 6 tabs that will release the lower portion of the canopy hinge when the jettison handle is pulled. Getting more complex? Just wait...

These tabs that secure the canopy hinge are mounted to a tube that runs inside the canopy frame. The canopy frame is notched in 6 places, each notch lining up with one of the 6 tabs. There are some unique rivets on the lower half of the hinge that pass through the frame and are secured when the tube/tab assembly is rotated towards the rivets. The rivets are not rivets as we all know them. They aren't clamping anything together, rather they have two heads, like duplex nails used in house framing construction. Each tab hooks onto its respective rivet between the two heads. The tube is held in place and prevented from rotating within the canopy frame by a complex latching mechanism. The latching mechanism secures a ball bearing in place that nests into a pocket in the tube/tab assembly. When the jettison handle is pulled, the latches on either side of the cockpit are released, causing the ball bearing to come out of the pocket, allowing the tube/tab assembly to rotate away from the rivets, releasing the hinges which hold the plexiglass into place. One of the elegant features of this design is that if one side hangs up and doesn't rotate fully, the release of tension on the other end of the plexiglass will allow the hung up side to also release. Of course, the system isn't as simple as that. There's more to it.

The 6 tabs that are mounted to each of the tubes (one tube per each side of each cockpit) have a some additional work to them. To allow adjustability to each of the tabs, they are actually part of a sleeve that rotates around the outside of the tube. The sleeve is held in place and adjusted by a beautifully machined brass wheel that is mounted in line with the tube. Each brass wheel is larger diameter than the outside diameter of the tube and each wheel is protrudes from the tube on either side. The brass wheel is knurled and it has a coarse thread to it. The brass wheel is secured to an allen screw that crosses the tube from one side to the other. As you turn the allen screw, it rotates the brass wheel. As the brass wheel turns, it causes the sleeve with its tab to rotate independently of the tube. This allows infinite adjustability for each tab providing the ability to adjust the tension on the plexiglass and the security of the canopy. Finally, to add one more level of complexity, there is short section of extremely fine music wire that also crosses the tube, parallel to each allen screw. This music wire catches the knurled edges of its respective brass screw, preventing it from turning on its own...

There are holes on the inside of the canopy frame which line up with each of the allen screws. This allows one to adjust them once everything is assembled and the canopy is closed.

Complex? YES.

Make sense? Maybe not. It took a couple of hours of head scratching with the pieces in hand before I was able to figure it all out. Fortunately there's a piece of original plexiglass and hinge left. If I didn't have that piece, I wouldn't know about the duplex rivets and how they hook into the tabs. It took quite a while of cleanup and experimenting to discover that turning the allen screws turned the brass wheels, which rotated the sleeves. There were many "A-ha" moments when figuring this assembly out.

More interesting details to come. More complexities and weird assemblies.


 
Jan 20, 2021     Painting - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Painted the forks and the re-welded gear leg. Unfortunately one gear leg was scratched a little bit when the fork was welded up. You can see the scratches in the photo of the assembled gear. Dennis buffed out the scratches as best he could but they still show. They look worse in the photo than real. As ugly as they are, they won't impact operation of the gear. The gear is suspended by a stack of rubber blocks so the seal between the upper and lower gear legs isn't critical.


 
Jan 17, 2021     Gear leg update - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Just got my gear legs back from the welder. They look great. Dennis had the pieces for many months but this wasn't a problem. He was working on my gearlegs between his other, bigger projects. Since I don't need the legs for a while yet, I wasn't worried. It was exciting to get them back though and see how they looked and fit together. I test fit the axle and brake assembly on one of the legs. It all fit as planned. Thanks to the 3D design and water jet table work that Grant at Excalibur did to cut out the pieces, they all fit for Dennis. Dennis did a beautiful job welding it all together and keeping the fork straight and true. Additionally, Grant matched the welding pattern to the welding that was done on the gearlegs 50 years ago. It all looks like it was done by the same person. Very nice touch. Thanks Grant.

Lastly, Grant repaired the upper gear leg where it had cracked below the pivot. This crack was easily identified when I did the dye-penetrant test on the pieces. See January 30 / 2020 entry for picture.


 
Dec 02, 2020     Landing Gear Welding       Category: Landing Gear
I haven't worked on the project for the past month or so as I've had some other projects to attend to. However, I have had the gear legs and forks at my favourite welder. Dennis Brown of Dennis Brown welding has accepted the challenge of welding up the new forks and repairing the damaged gear. As a reminder, the fork on each leg was damaged beyond repair in the accident 40 years ago. I cut them off and re-engineered some new forks that would work with the new wheel assemblies. The original wheels were a one-off design that fit an obscure tire size that's no longer available. Only one of the original wheels survived the accident and the subsequent 40 years of storage and movement. It was a custom machined magnesium wheel to fit the oddball tire size. Not only that, but the original plane had drum brakes from a Citroen. This is understandable since the plane was designed and built in France over 50 years ago... So, the new forks were designed to fit a Matco axle, wheel and brake assembly with a fairly conventional tire size. The new tire is almost the same outer diameter as the original and it still fits into the wheel bay when retracted.

Dennis has done some preliminary welding, tacking the pieces we'd cut out on the waterjet table a few months ago.


 
Oct 11, 2020     LH Landing Gear gearbox - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Installed retract gearbox and landing gear upper assembly into LH wing. Mounted wings into wing rack for winter storage.


 
Oct 08, 2020     Painting and varnishing - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Applied a second, touch-up coat to the wheel well area. Varnished the interior of the rest of the wing. Although some of the original pieces were coated in a thin paint, I coated them as well. There's a lot of surface area on the inside of a wing. It took almost a complete litre of varnish for the area.


 
Oct 06, 2020     Sanding and painting - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
A little more sanding and cleanup and then painted the wheel well area.


 
Oct 04, 2020     Sanding and cleanup - (2.5 hours) Category: Wings
Sanded the skins and cleaned up some of the glue joints. Rough trimmed skin on leading edge. Will final trim that once the lower skin is added.

Cleaned up some glue joints. Connected pitot tube within the wing. Nothing worth taking pictures of.
 
Oct 01, 2020     Sanding and filling - (1.5 hours) Category: Wings
Sanded the scarf joint filler from last day. Sanded glue drips and runs from sheeting on underside of wing. Planed and sanded the leading edge stringers for prep for sheeting underside. Applied another layer of filler to the remaining low spots on the scarf joints.
 
Sep 28, 2020     Sheeting cleanup - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps and clecos from sheets. Rough cut edges with jig saw then trimmed with plane and finally block sanded. Mounted aileron and marked the edges as required. Trimmed the aileron bay to final lines. Block sanded scarf joints. Mixed up some epoxy and flox to fill the cleco drill holes and a batch of epoxy and micro balloons to fill in any gaps or low spots between scarf joints.


 
Sep 27, 2020     Last of the sheeting - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Glued sheets 3 and 4 to wing.


 
Sep 26, 2020     Sheeting - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Glued sheet 2 in place. Prepped sheets 3 and 4 by rough cutting the outline and planing and sanding the scarf joints.


 
Sep 25, 2020     Prepped Sheet 2 - (1.5 hours) Category: Wings
Prepped sheet 2 by cutting to size and scarfing edges. Removed staples and clamps from sheets 1 and 1+.
 
Sep 23, 2020     Leading edge stringer and sheeting - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Notched noses of ribs and added leading edge stringer for underside skin. Added shear web plates to upper and lower stringers.

Flipped wing and planed and sanded the upper stringer. Measured, cut and prepped the skin for sheet 1+. Epoxied sheet 1+ into place.


 
Sep 19, 2020     Stringer and sheeting - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Notched noses of ribs and added leading edge stringer for topside skin.

Installed aileron to check clearance for top skin and discovered that pitot tube needed to be moved slightly. Per the design, the pitot tube runs in the gap between the rear spar and the front of the aileron. As it passes through the rib inboard of the aileron, it also has to clear the aileron on one side and the inboard aileron hinge on the other. To provide more clearance I had to pull the pitot tube and elongate the hole in the rib that it passes through. After a bit of trial and error, I was able to provide another 1/8" clearance and still fit through the appropriate hole in the aileron hinge.

Measured and prepped upper skin sheet number 1. This meant scarfing the outboard edge where sheet number 2 will mate with it. Epoxied, clamped, and stapled into place.


 
Sep 13, 2020     Left wing - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Mounted LH wing in the wing rotisserie. Notched the spar cap strips and pried them off. These are the pieces that Dalotel originally used to support the skin structure. These pieces aren't necessary with the skin sheets and arrangement of skinning that I'm doing. Going from photos of the original build and from what Ray mentioned, Dalotel used pieces of ply approximately 2' x 2' to skin the wing. I'm using just over 4' x 4' so there are a lot less joints and requires a lot less underlying support (and filler). Following the removal of the cap strips, I chiselled and sanded the remnants away.

Removed the landing gear retract gear and mount. This allowed me to paint the spar in the area that they are mounted. It's easier to do without the top skin on yet. Looking at the LH wing, I realized that the gear retract spring mount was originally painted so I painted the one on the RH wing as well.

Finished the nut plates for the rear spar connector plates. Screwed them in place.

Did some more trimming and sanding to the wingtip bow. Had to mix up a bit of epoxy and flox to fill a couple of low spots. This will allow the top skin to rest nicely on the wingtip bow maintaining the curvature of the upper skin all the way to the tip.


 
Sep 12, 2020     Wheel well, retracts, and such - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed the retract gearbox and landing gear mount so that I could paint around those items. I should have done it prior to starting painting but I didn't. Doing so allowed me to go back and clean up a few areas. Additionally, I was able to finish mounting the landing gear mount as the last of the AN5 bolts arrived yesterday. After touching up the paint I remounted the gearbox and mounting plate.

Assembled the wing rack that I'd built last month and moved the wing from the rotisserie to the wing rack. Now I can roll the RH wing to another area and mount the LH wing on the rotisserie and start sheeting it.


 
Sep 10, 2020     Painted wheel well - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Picked up some paint from Home Depot. Fortunately, they had a litre of Dalotel wheel well grey. Painted the interior of the wheel well with it.


 
Sep 08, 2020     Varnished interior - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Varnished interior of wing. Wheel well area will be painted a flat grey to match original.


 
Sep 01, 2020     Retract Gear Access Panel - (0.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Added framing for access panel for retract gearbox and associated limit switches.


 
Aug 29, 2020     Another round of sanding and filling - (1.5 hours) Category: Wings
Sanded high spots and filled low spots. Flipped wing over and touched up a few spots with more epoxy and flox.
 
Aug 22, 2020     Sanding and filling - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Sanded the filler that I'd applied. Have a few low spots left so another layer of filler.


 
Aug 19, 2020     Clean up this sheet - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed the clamps and clecos from the final sheet. Trimmed the skin flush with the tip. Installed the aileron and cut out the aileron bay with clearance for full deflection.

Sanded the glue joints where there were some high spots. Also found some low spots that required a bit of lightweight fill. A few ounces worth.


 
Aug 17, 2020     Sheeting again - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Cut out and prepped the last of the sheeting for the topside of the RH wing. This required a couple of shorter scarf joints to make the final reaches. I chose to epoxy these joints together while on my workbench rather than on the wing. They've only added a few inches in each direction so the sheet will still be manageable to epoxy to the wing. No pics today. Nothing really exciting to show.
 
Aug 14, 2020     Added sheet 2 - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
More glue, more clamps, more progress.


 
Aug 13, 2020     Sheeting again - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Epoxied sheet 1+ in place today. This required a lot of clamps and staples to hold it in place and get the ply to conform to the curve of the ribs near the leading edge.


 
Aug 12, 2020     Sheeting time - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Did some final prep before sheeting. Installed a few fittings and bolts that won't be easily accessible once the wing is sheeted. Masked off the landing gear retract gearbox to ensure I don't slop epoxy on it.

Laid out the sheeting and marked up the cuts and scarfs as required for the first few sheets.

The first sheet that went on is from the centre of the spar back to the trailing edge, from the root outwards towards the aileron. Fortunately these sheets are 50" x 50" rather than 48" x 48". The distance from the inboard edge of the root rib to the aileron bay is about 1 mm short of 50". This means one sheet can fill that entire space with about 1 mm to spare. It would be a real annoyance to have to scarf a joint for only 2" of sheeting to reach the aileron.

I had been messing around for the last few weeks trying to make a router jig to make the wing skins scarf joints. The skin is 2.5 mm thick so the scarf joints need to be 1.5 inches wide. Ideally, I would have used a router bit that was 1.5" diameter. I spent a lot of time trying to find a 1.5" router bit with a 1/4" shank. Had I found such a critter, I would have been able to secure a simple wedge mounted to my router that matched the slope of the scarf (15:1 or 3.8 degrees). I could have then run the router against a simple fence and made the scarf joint. Unfortunately it seems that no one makes bit larger than about 3/4" diameter for a 1/4" shank. If I had a router with a 1/2" shank there were lots of bits to choose from.

Since I only had a 3/4" bit, I tried to make a framed jig to run the router over the end of the skin and create a nice scarf joint. Unfortunately I couldn't get the jig to be stiff enough over the necessary span of 60". There ended up being too much flex in the jig and a router can do an amazing amount of cutting (or damage) in an instant. It doesn't take much flexing of the jig to ruin a 2.5 mm thick sheet. In the end, I decided I'll make my scarf joints by hand planing and sanding. The nice thing about scarfing plywood is the lines you get with each layer of ply. The lines act like elevation lines on a topographical map. The goal is to get them straight and evenly spaced.

I've numbered the sheets from 1 through 4 from the root to the tip. The wing section inboard of the aileron bay requires one and a half sheets to span the chord, so I've called those sheets Sheets 1 and 1+. Sheet 1 is the full sheet from the centre of the spar to the trailing edge. Sheet 1+ is the half sheet from the centre of the spar to the leading edge. Sheets 2 and 3 run from the leading edge to the aileron bay. Sheet 4 runs from the leading edge to the trailing edge outboard of the aileron.

I glued sheet 1 on place and then scarfed the necessary edge for sheets 1+ and both edges of sheet 2.


 
Aug 10, 2020     Some more sanding. - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Almost done sanding prior to sheeting. One more short session left to remove some remaining high spots.

All the ribs are now flat relative to one another. This was challenging as the wing changes from root to tip. The wing has a swept leading edge and straight trailing edge meanwhile the centre of the spar transitions from about 35 or 40%% of the chord at the root to about 25% of the chord at the tip. This plays with your mind as you're trying to align the sanding pad properly in relation to the ribs. And lastly, the airfoil changes from root to tip. All of these factors play into a wing profile that changes throughout the entire structure. The goal is to build a wing will turn out smooth with minimum filler ;-)


 
Aug 09, 2020     Wing cradle - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Had my son Brodie help me build a wing cradle using some 2x4's and scrap plywood from the crate that the wing skins came in. The cradle will allow me to store the wings elsewhere while working on the fuselage.

In Canada there are some specific steps that need to be done when building an amateur built aircraft. The process is done through the MD-RA which stands for Minister's Delegates - Recreational Aviation. Essentially the MD-RA is a group of dedicated and trained volunteers who are delegated by Transport Canada to inspect amateur built aircraft in Canada. After each inspection, the MD-RA inspector fills in a substantial amount of paperwork that gets submitted to the government. To build an aircraft in Canada, there are key milestones for inspection. Check out MD-RA.com for full details.

I had my initial inspection, the Major Portion inspection to ensure that the project fulfills the 51% or more requirement to qualify as an Amateur Built. My next inspection will be the Pre-Cover inspection. This will be done to ensure that the quality of the workmanship and the materials in the construction are of aviation quality. This means that I can only sheet the wings on one side until after that inspection. The inspector will need to see inside the wings before he can approve them.

To save the inspector from coming out twice for the Pre-Cover, I'll only sheet the topsides of the wings and I'll work on the fuselage to the point of covering.


 
Aug 08, 2020     Sanding and wing prep - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Picked up another section of basswood for the wing leading edge. Spent two hours planing and sanding the RH wing for prep for sheeting. No pics, unless you want to see the wood shavings blowing across the yard.
 
Jul 20, 2020     Leading edges and skin support - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Having picked up some bass wood last week, I was able to cut and plane to thickness some pieces for the leading edges and for skin support. This support is for the skin joint at the root section of the spar. I don't know how Dalotel originally joined the skins, but this support was shown in the drawings so I will take advantage of it to allow me to have a butt joint rather than a scarf joint in this area.


 
Jul 04, 2020     Leading edge stringers - (1 hour) Category: Wings
Did some preliminary planing to contour the new stringers. Cut out and added some sections of 1/16" ply for shear webbing for these stringers. This webbings glued halfway between each pair of ribs. They are to stiffen the stringers, preventing any bowing outwards of the stringers as the skins are glued on.
 
Jul 03, 2020     Added upper forward stringer - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Flipped the wing, notched the ribs, and glued in a new stringer.

Here you can see what I considered the biggest deterrent from changing the leading edge construction. It was the “forward subspar” that is already built ahead of the landing gear bay. This is the section of stringers and shear webbing running from the root rib to rib number 6. Had those stringers been located farther forward, it would have been an obvious choice to continue them to the tip rib and cap the nose with some solid wood. Unfortunately those stringers don't even run parallel to the leading edge. I decided to leave those stringers and webbing in place since the ribs in the wheel well area were already glued into place and the structure was secure. My new stringers merge with the "forward subspar" between ribs 5 and 6. The subspar required some trimming for this merge. See attached picture. The merge is somewhat hidden by the spring clamps that are there.


 
Jul 02, 2020     Added lower forward stringer - (.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Cleaned up the notches that I'd made yesterday. The notches were messed up a bit with glue and wood when I'd added the short stiffeners to each rib yesterday. Glued stringer into these notches, against the stiffeners.


 
Jul 01, 2020     Leading edge and misc - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
It doesn't seem that I got much done but I did spend quite a bit of time on the project today. First of all I planed the rearspar cap strips that I had glued the day prior. It's always fun and satisfying turning solid wood into shavings.

I added an additional stiffener for the tip rib on the bottom edge. This will provide gluing area for the underside skin where it angles upward from the bottom of the tip rib to the tip bow.

While at it, I laid out the skins again considering the best approach to sheet the wing. I've considered this a few times and I believe I've settled on the best plan. This requires a slight change to the original design, but then again, the plane wasn't built exactly as originally designed, and as an amateur built, I can make changes as I see fit. The biggest change is to the leading edge. On the original, the outboard 2/3rds of the wing uses a light (1 cm x 1cm) stringer along the extreme leading edge. The skins were steamed and formed to wrap around the leading edge. This wouldn't be so bad at the root section of the wing, but at the tip, the ribs are thin and the leading edge profile is sharp. The skin would have to wrap around something less than a 1" radius at the tip. I just don't have the tools or skills to do that in my shop with this 2.5 mm Finnish Birch. Additionally, that layout would require an awkward and wasteful use of the sheeting. I've decided to build the leading edge in a different manner. I'm going to run 1/2" square stringers, top and bottom, 1.5" back from the leading edge. I'll notch the ribs to allow the stringers to sit into the ribs. Once the stringers are in place, I will remove the section of ribs forward of the stringer. The stringers will provide a significant gluing area for the skins and once the wing is closed up, I will glue a leading edge cap onto the front edge of the stringers and skins. I will then shape the cap to provide the leading edge profile. This is similar to how my 1-Design was built. I'm making some slight variations to the 1-Design arrangement to better suit the Dalotel but it will provide a stronger leading edge and a much easier construction than the original design. I will use a router to remove some of the material on the backside of the leading edge cap, but that's a ways down the road. Although this design will be a little bit heavier than the original, my plans for arranging the sheeting on the wing will allow me to remove the cap strips that are on the main spar, so the weight gained will be offset by the weight lost. I think it will be a wash. The net effect will be an additional pound or two to each wing. From what Ray tells me, the original wing had a lot of heavy filler slathered over it to make it smooth. The way I've planned the sheeting will require minimal, if any filler, so the wings may end up being lighter than the originals. We'll never know.

So after all that thinking and designing, I ripped some douglas fir into 13' long stringers and then ran them through the thickness planer to get to my desired 1/2" x 1/2". I cut out notches in the ribs for the underside stringer and discovered that I now had to add stiffeners to each of them. Not a big deal, just one step back for 2 steps forward, so added those stiffeners and now wait for the glue to dry.


 
Jun 29, 2020     Spar Cap strips - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Planed cap strips on bottom of rear spar. This is the area ahead of the aileron bay. Need to do some final sanding to bring them flush to the tops (bottoms) of the ribs then they'll be ready to accept sheeting.

Cut and epoxied cap strips on top of rear spar.

Traced and cut out nose ribs for ribs 2 though 6.


 
Jun 28, 2020     More sanding. More shaping - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Glued some poplar to the upper surface of the wingtip bow. This is a "filler" layer to provide a nice contour that follows the upper skin curvature. Added gussets to the remaining glue joints and did some more planing and sanding to get very close to the final shape.

Spent some time sanding ribs and other miscellaneous glue joints.


 
Jun 25, 2020     Sanding and Shaping - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Had some time this afternoon so spent it getting reacquainted with the project, again. Spent some time sanding areas that had excess glue or dabs of glue where it wasn't required. Once I got moving on things I decided to shape the wingtip bow too. Used the hand plane and some 80 grit sandpaper to get the shape close to final clean up.


 
Jun 19, 2020     Cut out plates for landing gear - (3 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Ok, so I didn't really do much today other than provide some clarity to the design and drawings (including my modifications required to mount the new wheels and brakes.) But it took about 3 hours of attention to provide that guidance and to watch the cutting out of these plates.

The first one to be cut was the retract link. One of the original links was destroyed or lost in the accident. The second one is still in great condition and will be used for the plane but a second one needed to be cut. The original link was 10 mm thick. Ray, the original restorer couldn't get 10 mm 4130 when he sourced the metal so he got 1/2" thick instead. 1/2" or 12.5 mm is slightly thicker and slightly heavier but it's not an issue at all for this purpose. We had enough material to cut out two links (one for a spare) and rough cut the holes for the bearings. I'll take the links to a machinist to have the holes cleaned up so that the bearings can be pressed in.

We also cut out the pieces to make the two landing gear forks. I took the original Dalotel design and modified it to fit the Matco axle, wheels, and brakes that I'll be using. The original forks were not only damaged beyond repair in the accident but they had an axle welded to them. The axle fit the custom, one-off magnesium wheels that Dalotel made for the plane. Like the retract link mentioned above, one of the wheels has long since disappeared. The forks are made from 0.080" or 2 mm thick 4130 welded into a box section. It will be exciting to see them fully welded up.


 
Jun 09, 2020     Wing tip and such - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps from wingtip and spar caps. All those clamps did their job because everything glued in the right spot.

Removed the clamps and jigs from the forward wingtip bow. Cut it to length and gave it a partial sanding to clean it up a bit before gluing into place. It took surprisingly few clamps to hold into place.

Prepped, and cut doublers for landing gear access panel. Epoxied into place.


 
Jun 08, 2020     Trailing Edge, wingtip and misc - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Planed and sanded trailing edge on inboard section.

Removed from the jig the now dried and formed forward-most section of laminations for wing tip bow. Epoxied laminations together and reclamped in jig. Epoxied the two rearward sections of wing tip bows to wing.

Cut and epoxied spar cap strips for underside of rear spar. This will allow skin to have a stiffened edge in front of the spar.

Laid out wing skin sheeting to determine best alignment with least amount of joints, especially the difficult scarf joints.


 
Jun 07, 2020     Wing tip and trailing edge - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
It was a cold, wet, rainy day here so I didn't have any excuses or distractions to keep me from the project. I started by tracing the forward rib profiles onto some cardboard for use later. I also traced the wingtip outline from the LH wing. Using this tracing I cut out some jigs to shape some laminations for the wing tips.

Trimmed down a short section of 1" thick Douglas Fir board into strips. Ran the strips through the thickness planer to prepare for the laminations. There are three sections in all. The forward section running from the leading edge to the front of the main spar. It curves through over 90 degrees on about a 6" radius curve. The laminations for this section required steaming to bend. The remaining two sections, between the spars and from the rear spar to the trailing edge, have only a slight curve to them so I laminated them dry.


 
Jun 04, 2020     Misc little jobs continued - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Drilled, countersunk, and deburred the holes for the nutplates for the rear spar attach fittings. I only had enough nutplates for half of the screws but prepped the remaining plates as well.

Mounted the rear spar attach fittings using the above mentioned nutplates.

Completed the skin stiffener from yesterday and epoxied it into place.

Re-discovered the initial cut sections for the trailing edges. Sanded a couple of ribs to provide a straight run for the trailing edge to glue to.
 
Jun 03, 2020     Misc little jobs - (1 hour) Category: Wings
Started back on the project by tackling some of the smaller jobs. This helps to reacquaint myself with the project and get some momentum going again. I expect there will be many further gaps in the project as summer jobs and other adventures take time.

Today I started building the final skin stiffener. This is a simple open box stiffener that spans across the landing gear bay to support the upper skin.

Also marked up and laid out the hole locations for some nut plates for the rear spar attach fittings.
 
May 23, 2020     Sanded and glued some more stiffeners - (2 hours) Category: Wings
A few more stiffeners and gussets and blockage in place.
 
May 21, 2020     Ribs and stiffeners added again. - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
I shaved and sanded the subspar to match the skin contour. This provided me with the correct location for the ribs and stiffeners that I'd removed yesterday. Before gluing them in, I made up some gussets for the corners of some of these joints.
When all was ready, I started gluing and clamping...


 
May 20, 2020     Rib and stiffener removal. Two steps back - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
After working so hard to glue all the remaining ribs, stiffeners and such all at once, I now realize that I should have held off on gluing some pieces in. The landing gear subspar top needs to be trimmed and sanded to match the contours of the skin. This is more than just a little shaving off of one edge. Since the subspar runs diagonally back, from the root rib towards the tip, it sweeps from about 5% of the root chord to about 20% where it ends at rib 6. This sweep requires quite a bit of transition of the surface of the subspar. Since the ribs must sit flush with the top surface of the subspar, I needed to remove those ribs until I'd shaved and sanded the subspar to the correct contour. So all that work to save time resulted in a lot of time delicately removing those ribs and sanding away any glue or wood remnants.


 
May 11, 2020     Wheelwell area continued - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Fitted remaining ribs and blockage and stiffeners to the wheel well area. On the LH wing I had done this in multiple steps. That is, cut and fit some pieces, glue, wait for it to dry. Repeat on a few more pieces. Wait. Repeat again. Wait...

This time I prepped all the pieces and had them all fitting and ready to go and then worked out a sequence of assembly to allow it to all fit together. It was like a 3-dimensional game of Tetris with limited time due to the epoxy curing. Not to mention working with different thicknesses of epoxy. Thickened slightly for gap filling and thin for spreading like varnish. It all worked out but it certainly required a lot of clamps.


 
May 09, 2020     Wheelwell area - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Made a hole through rib N4 to allow landing gear retract spring to pass through. Despite using the LH wing and rib as a template, the hole for the spring in the RH wing was located slightly differently. The hole needed to be enlarged significantly. I'll do some work to close up the excess opening.

Additionally, since N4 was now glued in and secure, I was able to properly locate the fitment of the diagonal subspar. I cut a notch inN4 where the subspar will pass through and glued the subspar frame together.


 
May 08, 2020     Added N4 nose rib - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
I don't know why it took so long to fit this rib and glue it in place, but it did. I needed to ensure that each end wasn't too high or wasn't too low. It couldn't be too far out and it couldn't be too close to the root. It had to be perpendicular to the spar and couldn't have a twist in it. Just like Goldilock's porridge, it had to be JUST right.


 
May 08, 2020     RH gear work - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Hung RH landing gear and spent some time cleaning the bushing that the gear retracts on. It had a little bit of surface corrosion and with a bit of work with a scotchbrite pad and then some polishing compound, aka toothpaste, got the gear to rotate much more smoothly. Did the same on the landing gear retract gearing. Of course, cleaned up and greased the bushing for use.


 
May 07, 2020     Studs and ribs - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Made the last of the spar studs and installed them. Knobbled all the studs and nuts with a punch pin so that the nuts won't unthread.

Glued a few stiffener plates to the previous ribs.

Trimmed the shear webbing on the forward landing gear sub spar.


 
May 04, 2020     Gear, spar, and stud work - (5 hours) Category: Wings
Removed oxidation from the bronze bushing on the gear leg pivot. Mounted landing gear leg to RH wing. Fabricated and glued spacers between the ribs and the underside of the rear spar.
Fabricated 3 of the 4 remaining wing spar studs.
 
May 03, 2020     Back to it. Ribs and landing gear - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Had bolts and aluminum rod from AC Spruce arrive and had a break from other projects and spring chores so glued the cap strips and stiffeners to the remaining ribs and mounted the landing gear gearbox to the spar.


 
Apr 20, 2020     Removed staples from new ribs - (0.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Spring has finally sprung. So there's lots of stuff to do outside and around the house. Not a lot of time for building.

I had an half hour window to remove the clamps and pull staples from the new rib sections.


 
Apr 18, 2020     More rib prep. - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Had to cut and plane some more cap strip and stiffener material. It's amazing how quickly 10' of wood can be used up on a few ribs. While I was at it, I cut and planed some poplar as filler in various places. For example, it will be used in the gap between the ribs, between the spar and the skins.

Glued the cap strips and stiffeners to some of the ribs.

Steamed and bent cap strips for the remaining rib sections.


 
Apr 17, 2020     Hinges and Wheel well Ribs - (5 hours)       Category: Wings
Mounted aileron hinges.

Traced out wheel well ribs from LH wing onto card stock. Transferred tracing to plywood and cut out ribs and rib sections. Reused the steel framing studs from the spar table to be used as a 10' long straightedge. Used this straightedge to confirm contours of new ribs and to check on the existing ribs. Cut out rib stiffeners for the new ribs and steamed a few sections to permit them to fit the curve of the ribs.


 
Apr 16, 2020     Landing gear bay - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Did some miscellaneous fitment and such. Added forward subspar to landing gear bay.


 
Apr 15, 2020     Aileron fitment and hinges - (5 hours)       Category: Wings
I can't believe it took 5 hours to get today's work done. There was a lot of fiddling to get the aileron hinges in the correct location with minimal binding. Shift up, shift down, forward, backward, add shims, remove shims. The biggest challenge is due to the aileron not being perfectly true. There is a very slight bow to it. The bow is so minor that you can't even see it with the naked eye but when the aileron is installed with the hinges on either end, the middle hinge wants to travel and pull away from the spar slightly as the aileron goes through its travel. I found this the case on the other wing and aileron too. So, a lot of time was spent to reduce the binding to a minimum.

I used the aileron leading edge to sand an even gap on the stub ribs ahead of the aileron. Made nut plates for the aileron hinges. They're ready for installation.


 
Apr 13, 2020     Sanding - (1 hour) Category: Wings
Removed clamps from glue joints. Trimmed and planed excess glue and doublers that needed to be taken down. Started fitting aileron hinges.
 
Apr 12, 2020     More doublers and gluing - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed staples from yesterday's gluing. Did a quick trimming of doublers that were extending past edges of ribs. Sanded areas that needed to be glued today.

Epoxied all remaining doublers and stiffeners into place. Epoxied aileron hinge blocks to rear spar.


 
Apr 11, 2020     Cleaned up RH landing gear retract assembly - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Cleaned off old grease and dirt from RH landing gear retract gearbox. Even found some of the barley or wheat or whatever the crop was that the plane was put down in on its last flight.

Reassembled retract gearbox including mounting old electrical switches. These switches will be replaced with new ones when the time comes but the old ones were mounted to show how they go.


 
Apr 11, 2020     Rib stiffeners and doublers - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Cut out stiffeners for the ribs at the rear spar connections. Measured and cut out rib doubler plates. There must have been about 50 of them. Some ribs required a few and some only required one or two.

Epoxied the stiffeners to the ribs and rear spar. Epoxied the doubler plates to all locations except at the rib to rear spar joint. I'll add those plates tomorrow once the epoxy dries on the stiffeners and I can remove the clamps. They are currently in the way.


 
Apr 10, 2020     Rib stiffeners - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Cut and glued additional stiffeners and blockage for ribs to main spar.


 
Apr 09, 2020     Rear spar connector plate and trailing edge - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Trimmed the rear spar to match the plates as per the fit up last week. Cut and fit some blockage that the plates will screw into.

Got out the thickness planer and trimmed down some poplar for the trailing edge. Cleaned things up, put the planer away and then remembered that there's a short section of trailing edge required outboard of the aileron. Got that piece trimmed as well.


 
Apr 08, 2020     Fittings and misc prep - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage
While I was disassembling the plane it gave me the opportunity to work on and clean up some of the empennage hardware and fittings. I've attached a photo of the hinge brackets for the elevator. The pieces for the rudder are identical. As before, beautiful workmanship on the machining and fabrication of these pieces. Aircraft kit manufacturers and amateur built aircraft builders have it much easier today with readily available pieces and parts that can be used. But then, they don't get the custom manufactured pieces like these...


 
Apr 08, 2020     Disassembled plane for further work - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Although today was progress on the project, it felt like stepping backwards. Having the plane together is rather inspiring. Having it all apart again is less so.

Since there aren't any exciting pictures when it comes to disassembly, I added a couple of pictures of the plane in its early days. The low altitude, inverted pass right over the airfield and photographer probably wouldn't be permitted in today's day and age. Not that I'd want to.

The second photo shows the plane at a significant inverted angle of attack. The airfoil is semi-symmetrical, not fully symmetrical so to fly inverted requires a significant nose up attitude. This is where the washout in the tips that was mentioned a couple of days ago could become an important and undesirable feature.


 
Apr 07, 2020     Aileron and more gluing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Fitted and glued the sub rib at the inboard end of the aileron. Created spacers for the rib stringers and the top of the spar. Epoxied them into place.


 
Apr 06, 2020     Ribs epoxied into place - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Today was another big day. Four hours and it looks exactly the same as yesterday. Except that all the ribs on the RH wing are now set in place and are waiting for the epoxy to dry.

Today was a lot of measuring, fitting and adjusting, more measuring, some shimming, more adjusting, a lot of sighting, and then when confident that all the ribs were in the correct position, mix up some epoxy and start gluing. Of course, as you're gluing, you have to move the ribs to get epoxy into the joint, so more sighting, shimming, and clamping. Then more gluing. And then, double check the measurements. As the saying goes, measure twice, cut once. Since I'm gluing about 50 glue joints, it's imperative to get everything in the right position before the epoxy sets.

The first real measurement was to ensure that the RH wing had a sweep to match the LH wing. Measuring from the tail post to the tip of each spar, I made sure that the RH wing matched the LH wing. Ultimately a mismatched sweep will have negligible effect on the performance of the plane but it needs to right. Just because. The next big step was to set the correct incidence of the tip rib. The root rib incidence is easily set by the matching the position of the root rib on the LH wing and how it sits relative to the fuselage. The tip rib has 2 degrees of washout, that is, the tip rib has 2 degrees less incidence than the root rib. This washout is to reduce the likelihood of tip stalls and the corresponding potential for a spin. Of course, is only effective when the plane is upright. When it's inverted, that washout will mean the tip is at 2 degrees GREATER angle of attack, making the tips more susceptible to stalling. The net effect is that the plane will be prone to stall/spin effects when inverted. This a bit of an oversight on Dalotel's part considering that the plane was intended to be flown inverted at times. (Dalotel went to a great bit of effort to design an inverted oil system for the plane, and it has an inverted fuel system. So it wasn't like he didn't expect it to be flown inverted.) Regardless, since the LH wing has 2 degrees of washout, the RH wing needs to match. The correct incidence and position of each ribs IS important to the performance of the plane.

The actual measurement of the incidence isn't important during the build since it's dependent upon how it's sitting in workshop. What's important is the difference between the root rib and the tip.


 
Apr 05, 2020     More assembly and fitting - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Slid the remaining ribs onto the RH spars. Spaced them out and confirmed fit.

Temporarily mounted the empennage.


 
Apr 04, 2020     Test Fitting Wings - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Big day in the project. Test fitting wings and spars. Earlier in the week I got help from my family to lower the fuselage from the storage space I'd made for it. My son and I lifted the frame up above our heads to put it up there. That hurt the back for a week so we going to use additional help to get it down. I rigged up a pully from the rafters so that my wife could provide some additional lifting power. That made all the difference. I'll have to weigh the fuselage when I think of it but it's darn heavy.
Back to the project. With the fuselage down, we set it on a frame with casters on it. This frame was previously the base of a wing rotisserie for another project. It's proven handy again. We tried fitting the loose spar to the frame only to learn that the fuselage needed a bit more prep.

The wings are connected to the fuselage and one another through some beautifully machined aluminum connector plates. These plates run the full width of the fuselage and the wing attach bolts pass through them and through the welded steel frame. The bolts run through these plates and through a pair of tapered bushings on either side of the spar. I had 4 of these bushings in my parts and I discovered that both of these plates require bushings for final assembly. I found one more bushing in one of the plates but it appears that I'm missing 3. I don't recall drawings of these bushings so I'll have to get them made using dimensions from the others.

To prep things fully, I removed these plates and cleaned them up. This allowed us to slide the wing spars into the frame and then tighten the plates up on either side to fit everything properly. This also allowed me to locate the rear spar properly and drill the hole for the connection bolt. Doing this locks the wing into the correct incidence. I'm going to reference the location of the LH wing to locate the RH wing and set its incidence.

This will also allow me to set an even and proper sweep for each wing. Epoxied the root rib on the RH wing in place. The remaining ribs will be positioned using the root rib for reference.


 
Mar 31, 2020     Rib mounting - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Started the day by using a centre punch to tap the threads of the studs and nuts. This is to prevent them from unscrewing. There's very little load on the nuts themselves other than to prevent the studs from backing out of the spar.

I then measured and marked out the locations for the ribs. As luck would have it, a couple of the ribs need to be moved a slight amount. One rib would have been located in the centre of one of the spar mounting studs, and a second rib would have been located in the centre of one of the landing gear mounting bolts. Not a big issue, both ribs will be relocated about 3/4" outboard. Test fitting the ribs onto the spar. A couple of the ribs had to have the gap in their shear webbing opened up to fit the width of the spar. The root rib need to be cut into two parts; a section forward of the spar and a section aft of the spar. It is drawn and built as a single piece but it can't slide down the length of the spar from the outboard end as it doesn't have enough clearance for the studs and nuts. It can't be mounted from the inboard side either because the spar attach plate has two "ears" on it that the wing attach bolts go through. These ears are taller than the spar is deep. Additionally the spar end plate extends forward of the spar by a couple of inches. So after a bunch of fiddling and trying to fit it one way or another, I realized that the best way would be to cut the root rib into two. I cut the rib's upper and lower stringers at a shallow angle such that the joint will be a nice scarf joint.


 
Mar 27, 2020     Spar studs - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Further to yesterday's work, I had a couple of studs that needed to be removed. One stud needed the nut on one side to be backed off to better centre the stud and provide sufficient threads for the opposite side. This nut wasn't moving since the stud and nut had been tapped with a punch to prevent from backing out. In fact, this was the technique that Dalotel did for all these studs. Notice that the centre of each stud has been drilled out slightly. I suspect this was done to provide some movement when the threads were tapped. It was an effective approach because this nut would not unthread. While trying to unscrew it, I overtorqued the stud which broke off cleanly below the surface. It was going to have to be replaced anyway since the stud wasn't fitting properly. A little tap or two with a punch and the stud was removed.

I had a couple of nuts that needed to have the threads re-cut. The threads of the stud had galled onto the nuts. Galling is the process of similar metals or metals with similar hardness rubbing against one another and essentially fusing to each other. Since this was aluminum on aluminum and aluminum is quite soft, the risk of galling was quite high. Once the two surfaces have galled, you are NOT going to get them apart. A specialist in metals and materials could explain the difference, but for the layman such as myself, I equate it to friction welding without the heat.


 
Mar 26, 2020     Spar studs - (3 hours) Category: Wings
Nothing to see today, but there was a lot of work done on the spar studs. Spent some time fitting up the studs and getting them seated as best I could. It was a combination of delicate wrench work and some gentle love taps with a rubber mallet. The aluminum nuts on either end of the studs have a shoulder machined onto them that fits within the oversized hole in the washer plate. Everything is built to such tight tolerances that there is little space for the shoulders to fit into.

Although these studs are 12mm in diameter and the nuts use a 22mm socket, I have to resist the temptation to over-torque them. They are not AN bolts and there's really no need to have them very tight. The nut is there to prevent the stud from backing out of the hole, connecting the spar plate to the spar.

Had a couple of studs that required a little extra love to move and now I will have to replace them with new ones. Another order for AC Spruce.

Once I was satisfied with the stud placement, I started filling the gaps in the spar notch with epoxy thickened with flox. The epoxy mixture also worked into the lighting slots in the spar plate. I thought it would only take an ounce or two to fill these gaps, but it ended up being closer to 6 ounces due to the lighting slots.
 
Mar 25, 2020     Spar work - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Cleaned up the recent lamination and sanded out the epoxy drips and runs from the spar slot.

Installed the wing attach plate for the last time. Aligned things up and inserted the studs. This required the use of a rubber mallet. Some of the studs took a little extra love to go through the tight tolerances of the spar and attach plate.

Epoxied the last of the landing gear doublers to the front side of the spar.


 
Mar 24, 2020     Last of the spar sheeting - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Added last lamination of the spar sheeting.

Cut out and match drilled the doublers for the landing gear mounts and bushings. The landing gear retract bushings that run through the spar are just over 2" diameter. Previously, I used a 2" forstner bit to make those holes through the spar and then cleaned them them up with a sanding drum chucked into my drill. The doubler on the front side of the spar requires a hole that is 2-1/2" in diameter to allow for the shoulders that are on the bushing plates. Fortunately I had a 2-1/2" forstner drill bit from a previous project to cut the larger holes. The edges of the holes then needed to be beveled to provide clearance for the weld fillet on the bushing plates. That worked out nicely but I'm a little disappointed in the bolt holes in the doublers. I should have clamped some scrap wood to the backside of the doubler while I drilled through to prevent the splintering you see in the picture. Fortunately it's not critical and those bolt holes will be covered by the bushing plates so no one will ever see them once it get's assembled.


 
Mar 22, 2020     Spar sheeting continued - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Cleaned up edges of existing sheeting. Created a second layer of sheeting for the middle 1/3 and laminated it to existing sheeting. The first layer that I'd applied was only 1/8" (3.175 mm). The sheeting in this area is designed to be 4 mm. So I added a layer of 1/16" sheeting to bring the total thickness to 3/16" (4.7mm).
 
Mar 21, 2020     Closed up spar - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Again, more of the same but this resulted in closing up the spar.


 
Mar 20, 2020     More spar sheeting - (1 hour) Category: Wings
More of the same.
 
Mar 19, 2020     More spar sheeting - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps and trimmed edges of sheeting thus far. Back drilled and cleaned up the holes for the spar studs and the landing gear mounts.

Prepped and glued the next section of plywood. The sheeting on the spar starts at 6 mm at the root and then steps down to 4 mm around the middle third, and then steps down again to 2 mm at the outboard third. Unfortunately I couldn't get any 4 mm ply from the supplier so I'm making my own by applying a layer of 1/8" ply and then a layer of 1/16" ply. The combined thickness of the two layers is about 4.75 mm.


 
Mar 18, 2020     Spar sheeting continued - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps and cleaned up excess glue from yesterday. Backdrilled through the new sheeting using the holes in the spar as guides. Varnished the areas inside the spar that won't be exposed to glue.

Prepared the scarf joints for the last section of 6mm sheeting and glued it to the backside of the spar.


 
Mar 17, 2020     Wing spar sheeting - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
After a long hiatus, I got a couple of hours work in today. I had to take a break while waiting for my shipment of plywood to show up. It arrived yesterday and I was pleased to cut into it today.

The first thing I did was cut the 6mm ply into strips to cover the sides of the spar. Then I prepped the ends to prepare for scarf joints in the ply. Finally, I epoxied one sheet to the front of the spar.


 
Mar 08, 2020     Threaded spar plate attachment studs - (.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Threaded the remaining studs using the lathe to hold the die and the stud. Much better results compared to running the die by hand.


 
Mar 07, 2020     New Spar Attach Plate Studs - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Had an order from AC Spruce arrive yesterday. It included some hinge material for the landing gear doors, some steel for the landing gear forks and some 1/2" diameter aluminum rod. I turned this rod down to 12 mm diameter studs for the spar attach plate.
I had made some studs previously but I wasn't happy with the tracking on the die when I cut the threads. After learning a new technique using the lathe to hold the die square to the stud, I was able to make some new ones. See attached pictures. Much better.


 
Mar 05, 2020     Ordered ply for skins and spar Category: Wings
Ordered 15 sheets of 2.5 mm ply for the skins and 1 sheet of 6 mm ply for the spar from Canadian Aeroplanes Limited.

Each sheet is 50" x 50" so it will be a large, heavy crate when it's shipped to me. Looking forward to seeing it.
 
Mar 02, 2020     Last of the spar drilling - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Using the drill press I drilled out the two, 2" diameter holes for the landing gear. These holes pass through the ash block in the middle of the spar and allow the retract mechanism to operate and the gear leg to pivot. After drilling these holes, I had to enlarge them about 1/16" to permit the landing gear plates to press fit into them.


 
Mar 01, 2020     Landing gear bolting - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Drilled the last of the spar bolt through holes. These were for the 5/16" bolts for the landing gear plates.

With the landing gear plates in place, used the plates to trace the exact location of the 2" holes. Tracing the inside of the bushing resulted in a circle smaller than what will be drilled out. Used a compass to scribe some arcs to then bisect and locate the centre of the circle. This is the point at which the 2" diameter bit will run for the landing gear plates.


 
Feb 29, 2020     Spar bolting - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
After a bit of a lapse, it was good to get back on the project again. Last week I placed an order from AC Spruce which included some bushing material to be used as a drill guide for the 5/16" bolts. Unfortunately there was a shipping delay and it doesn't sound like the items will arrive for a few more days. So I did some scrounging and found some tubing that could be made to work. This tubing had survived a garage fire years prior but the heat caused it to sag and bend. I just needed to find a couple of sections that were straight over a few inches. The sections that I found, I sandblasted to get the outer scale off and then mounted in the lathe. I drilled them out to the required inner diameter and then turned them to the required outer diameter. This allowed me to insert the sections in the 12 mm ID tubing on the welded frame and use that frame to drill the 5/16" holes.

After careful layout and marking I was able to drill the critical holes for the landing gear and then finished up the 12 mm holes for the remaining spar studs.


 
Feb 25, 2020     Critical spar work - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Big day today. I started the day by transferring the marks from the spar attachment plate to the spar caps. This would provide additional confirmation on the hole locations, over and above the locations set by the flat plate drill guides. I prepped the welded drill guide by cutting it to the required clearance for the width of the spar. I also modified one of my practice studs to be used as an alignment pin for the backside of the drill guide. Using a hi-tech solution such (an elastic band) to hold the pin in the hole of the plate drill guides allows me to drill the hole perfectly perpendicular to the spar.

After doing some final fitment of the sockets from yesterday, I mixed up a batch of epoxy and thickener and set the sockets into final position.

After lunch, when the epoxy had set up enough to allow me to handle the spar, I attacked the critical and daunting though spar holes. These are the holes that pass from the front of the spar to the rear (or vice versa, depending on your perspective) and pass through the bolt holes in the spar attachment plate. Getting these lined up is critical. Not only to get the holes lined up for the stud to pass through the spar, but the location of the top holes in relation to the lower holes establishes the dihedral of the wing. Additionally, the three 8mm holes at the outboard end of each spar plate have some of the landing gear mounting bolts go through them. These also need to be lined up to one another properly or the landing gear mounts won't fit. Alignment, alignment, alignment. It's all so critical.

So after lots of measuring and layout and double checking everything, I clamped the drill hole guide plates in place and with the welded drill guide, started drilling. After all the prep, it was rather anti-climatic. I suppose that's what all the prep is for, to prevent anything from going wrong and keeping it dull. If it didn't work out it could have ruined the entire spar.

I drilled all ten of the 12mm holes and tested the studs for fitment with the spar plate in place. It all fits. Yay!

I've got to do the bottom ones yet but I'm waiting until I get my 8mm bushing for the 3 holes at the outboard end of the spar plate. Since the landing gear plates go through those 8 mm holes on both the top spar plate and the bottom spar plate, they are critical to the fitment. Hopefully that bushing material shows up in the next couple of days.


 
Feb 24, 2020     Drill guide for wing spar - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
I was never really comfortable with the previously built drill guide. That is, the one made from 0.050" plate bent into a "U" shape and some tubing. I was afraid there was too much flex in the plate and this would result in the drill not penetrating the spar perpendicularly. Instead, I got a rigid frame welded up with the guide tubing as one piece. I will cut the centre section of the tubing to permit clearance for the spar and the plates that were cut by the waterjet.

I marked the outside edge of the spar connector plate to show where the holes are and then transferred those marks to the spar once the connector plate was fully inserted into the spar. This will allow me to ensure that the guide plates are located properly.

I drilled the root end of the spar for holes for the bushings that the end plate screws into.


 
Feb 22, 2020     More spar work - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Trimmed and sanded edges of skins on rear spar. Cut and prepped scarfs for 3/32" skins for main spar. The main spar has three different thicknesses of skins. It starts at 6 mm at the root, reduces to 4 mm over the middle third, and then done to 2 mm (3/32") over the outboard third. I could only prep the 3/32 skins as I haven't yet ordered the 4 mm and 6mm ply yet.


 
Feb 21, 2020     Spar Skinning Part 2 - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Did a rough trim of the skin that I epoxied on yesterday. Cleaned up the spar and prepped the skin for the opposite side. "Painted" the inside of the spar with epoxy to seal it and glued second skin on.


 
Feb 20, 2020     Spar Skinning - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Spent some time fixing a couple of the bulkheads that were damaged moving the spar to the rotisserie. I also replaced one of the bulkheads that wasn't quite long enough for the gap between the upper and lower caps. Again, more sanding. I'm sure a craftsman would be able to get this stuff done without having to do so much sanding. Oh well, all in the name of fun.

I marked out and cut the skins for the rear spar. This was a little more interesting because the grain of the skins is at 45 degrees to the spar. Any way that you laid out the ply resulted in many scarf joints. Not a problem because I made up a jig for shaving the skin at the correct angle for the scarf joint. The jig worked pretty well. Although, I'll have to make a larger one for the main spar. Since the grain of the webbing is at a 45 degrees to the spar it requires a wider jig than if the grain was perpendicular to the spar. Once it was set up, I could put a section of the webbing in place, clamp it down, 10 seconds with the handplaner and then another 15 seconds with some sandpaper and the scarf joint was prepped. Another minute later I was attacking another scarf joint. I was pleased.

After all the strips of skin were prepped, I brushed epoxy on the spar and set the skins in place with lots of clamps.


 
Feb 19, 2020     Spar work - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Moved the spar from the bench to the "wing rotisserie". I got my family's help to move the LH wing out of the shop many days ago. This provides me some more room to work. Moving the spar to the rotisserie will give me room on my workbench again.

I measured and laid out the location for the spar webbing. This allowed me to determine how much plywood I'll need to finish the spar. Not just ordinary plywood, this is beautiful Finnish birch plywood. I'll need 15 sheets of 2.5 mm ply for the wing skins and a 4 mm sheet and a 6 mm sheet for the spar. I'll be ordering this plywood from Canadian Aeroplanes Limited. Since the plywood comes in 50" x 50" sheets and has to be shipped from Ontario, I want the order to be right on the first try.

I cut, trimmed and epoxied in the stiffeners for the opposite side of the bulkheads.


 
Feb 18, 2020     Spar work - (5 hours)       Category: Wings
Spent quite a bit of time cleaning up the glue joints and various sections of the spar. Since the spar caps get thinner towards the tips, there is a section of the lower spar cap that is thinner than the depth of the slot for the aluminum spar plate. As such, the slot penetrated the topside of the cap. One of the things that I discovered when I glued the ash block in for the landing gear is that the block aligns with this slot. Not a problem, but it means that the ash block will require some routing to get the channel back to the full depth. It was a section about 8��long. The additional cut started at zero depth at one end and then got to about 3/8��deep at the outboard end. This required setting up a section of MDF "table" and fences on either side of the spar and using the router to cut the slot deeper. Once this routing was completed, I test fit the aluminum spar plate in the slots. Each leg of the spar plate fit into its respective slot with no problem. There was an issue with the separation of the plates though, or more accurately, the depth of each slot in respect to one another. Although I'd built the spar to the dimensions on the plans, I need to make some corrections. The separation of the spar plate legs are established by the plates at the root end so the only option is to cut the notches deeper to get it to fit. This required setting up the MDF table and fences again. Each time takes about 30 minutes of set up and locating so that I don't cut more than necessary. I'm hesitant to cut the notch any deeper than necessary. So after setting up the fixture to guide me, I cut the slot on one side another 1/8" deeper. After some trimming the slot by hand using a chisel and a knife I'm able to get the spar plate to fit properly.

I cut, trimmed, and epoxied stiffeners to the bulkheads.


 
Feb 16, 2020     Installed bulkheads - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Epoxied bulkheads into place.


 
Feb 15, 2020     Back in action - (5 hours)       Category: Wings
After a bit of a lull in operations this past week, I was able to attack the project again.

I started with fabricating a second portion to the drill guide. The pieces made last week were the guide plates. They are intended to locate the drill holes accurately. The new piece is to work as a guide to ensure that the drill tracks through the spar accurately and lines up with the spar plate and the guide holes on the opposite side of the spar. I cut out a plate of 0.050" steel and bent it into simply a U shape that would wrap around the top (or bottom) of the spar and have a bushing to track the drill bit perpendicular to the spar. Each leg of the U has a hole to allow some tubing to pass through it. Once I get that tubing welded to the legs, I'll be able to cut the tubing from the middle and clean up the inside of each leg. This will provide me with a drill guide that ensures the tracking of the drill bit. At least, that's the plan.

I also laid out the spar caps and blockage for the landing gear. I made these blocks from laminations of ash a while ago. I'd made them oversized to allow for final trimming once the spar was laid out. This allowed me to space everything for the spar and make the necessary alignment. As planned, I had to shave about 1/2" to 3/4" off either side of the blocks to get them to fit nicely. This was a bit of an effort since ash is such hard wood. I cut holes through the spar bulkheads and trimmed them for proper fit. A lot of measuring and checking before anything was glued together.


 
Feb 11, 2020     Removed damaged fork - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Had fun making sparks, grinding the welds that held the original forks to the landing gear legs. Need to prep the legs for the new forks.

Started with the angle grinder to remove the large sections, then used the grinding wheel to smooth things out a bit, finished with a file and some sand paper.


 
Feb 11, 2020     Finished spar repair - (1 hour) Category: Wings
Removed clamps from spar assembly. Used power rotary planer to taper new section of fir to required thickness. Fun making wood shavings. Too bad this was the second time I had to do it on this section. Finished with some sanding.
 
Feb 10, 2020     Spar repair - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Finished the repair to the lower spar cap. Planed a new section of fir and created a scarf joint to mate it to existing spar section.
Epoxied and clamped the sections together.


 
Feb 08, 2020     Landing Gear Fork Design - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
After Grant and I drew out the spar plate drill guide, we spent some time on the computer designing the gear leg fork. The fork is a slight modification to the original design from Dalotel. We had to make some changes to allow for the slightly wider but smaller diameter wheel and tire. Additionally, the new axle and brake assembly are bolted onto the fork rather than welded on. These and a few other changes will result in a stronger but easier to construct fork.

Attached are some images of our design so far. There are going to be some minor changes and I'm going to review the design with my welder to see if he has any suggestions to simplify manufacturing for him. All in all a great day of progress. I'm most grateful to Grant for the time he spent with me working on this design and the drill guides that he'd cut out. Absolutely beautiful.


 
Feb 08, 2020     Drill guides for wing spar - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Today wasn't really a day working "on" the wing but it was a significant day towards the project. I spent a good portion of the day with Grant from Excalibur Research Development and Manufacturing. Grant was recommended to me by my welder to help design and cut out the metal for my landing gear forks. I approached Grant earlier in the week and we'd made arrangements to meet today. I couldn't have been any more lucky to connect with someone so capable. Grant is an AME, a pilot, a business owner, a machinist, a welder, and one of those guys who sees a challenge and tackles it head on. Whether it's learning how to program PLCs or write code or design items for 3D printing. He's developed many different interesting things through his company.

Grant was very generous with his time and first of all we designed and drew up some drill guides for the wing spar mounting plate stud holes. The spacing of these holes is critical because they need to align with the existing holes that are in the spar mounting plate. Since the spar mounting plate is buried in the middle of the width of the spar, the holes will need to be aligned perfectly to ensure that everything lines up perfectly. Once drawn, Grant submitted the drawing to his water jet table and cut the guides out of some 3mm SST plate he had sitting in the table. 3mm SST plate is overkill for what I'm needing as each hole will only be drilled through once but since the plate was already on the table, it was easiest. After I'm done with the plates, they'll become wall art. They are things of beauty.


 
Feb 07, 2020     Spar "repair" - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
When I was planing the taper to the lower spar cap I uncovered some less than desirable sections of the wood used in the spar. This section has a few knots and pitch pockets that weren't obvious until the taper was cut into the lamination. I've been mulling it over for a while knowing that I needed to do something about it. I had considered adding a doubler to that section of the spar. I would certainly be easier and wouldn't impact the rest of the construction. I was never really keen on that solution though so after a lot of deliberation, I finally took the plunge. I decided to remove that section of the spar lamination and put a new section in it's place. To do this would require the router again and some careful prep. The router is a great tool in that it removes a lot of material rather quickly. The consequence of that is that if you make a mistake, it can do a lot of damage rather quickly.

The section that needed to be replaced was actually the second layer of three and it was only in one area, an area that was exposed when the that lamination was tapered in thickness. This required the cut to go from zero depth at one end to full lamination depth at the other end of the imperfect wood. At that point, the cut would need to start becoming shallower such that it was at zero depth 15" further. This would provide a scarf joint that meets the 15:1 requirement. This is tough to describe but the picture may make it a lot easier to understand. The challenge is that at no point was the cut depth consistent to the surface of the spar that the router was moving over. The cut gets continuously deeper until it's a full 1" deep, then it gets continuously shallower until it becomes nothing.

I set up a jig reusing the MDF that I had used previously. I essentially built a table that's surface was parallel with the cut that I wanted to make, not parallel to the exposed surface. The first part was easy because that cut was parallel to the underside of the spar that was resting on the table. The next cut required a table with a surface at an angle that allowed the planer to rise away from the spar.

In the end, it worked. My cautious approach meant that I didn't cut full depth along the initial section and I'll have to set up the router again to remove some more material but I ran out of time for the day.


 
Feb 05, 2020     A treasure trove of information - (2 hours)       Category: Research
A couple of weeks ago I received a thick envelope of documentation from Ray. He had collected some information on the plane and sent it to me. I could only give it a cursory glance when I first received it. It looked like there was some great information in there. I finally had a chance to dig into it and it's a treasure trove of information and history. In addition to Ray's notes on the plane and some of the structure, there are some of the original documents for the plane. For example, there is some paperwork that appears to be the original certificate of airworthiness by the Ministere Des Transports Secretariat General a L'Aviation Civile. It's typed on parchment and was stamped and signed in person. Typed! No computer printouts back in 1969. There's also a brochure that appears to be a business plan and aircraft marketing brochure. It is printed in French and there are some additional pages with the content translated into English. The brochure describes the flight characteristics of the plane as written up by a series of engineers and flight test engineers as tested by the CEV, which was the French Flight Test Centre. The comments were all very positive not unlike the magazine articles that were written about the plane at the time. Of course, as a sales brochure, they would have only chosen the positive comments but there is further reference to the full flight testing results. Something to dig into...
The brochure also describes the business goal of manufacturing and selling 15 planes in the first year and increasing the production to upwards of 100 aircraft per year by year six! Obviously that didn't happen.

This package also includes the documentation for the plane when it was imported into the UK and some of the paperwork required to get it to pass airworthiness. All in all, a very interesting and valuable collection to add to the aircraft's history.


 
Feb 04, 2020     A few more studs - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Made a few more wing studs. Again, had a bit of trouble running the die concentric with the stud, so I'll have to make a couple more when I get some more stock of aluminum.


 
Feb 03, 2020     Spar Studs - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Fortunately a shipment from AC Spruce arrived today allowing me to proceed on the spar studs. I have to fabricate some new studs to replace the damaged aluminum studs that bolt the wing mounting plate into the spar. These studs are 12mm diameter so I started with 1/2 inch diameter 2024T3 aluminum rod and turned it on the lathe down to 12mm diameter. I beveled each end slightly to allow the 12mm die to start easily. Using a 12mm die, I was able to cut threads into the ends of each completed stud. Unfortunately, in my haste, I didn't have the die perfectly square on the stud when starting a couple of them so the threads are concentric. I'll have to replace those studs and chalk it up to learning.

I cleaned up some metric socket head bolts that secure the landing gear door hinge. A few of them were rather weathered so I needed to give them a good scrubbing with scotchbright to remove the surface rust. I'm not worried about the strength as these bolts are really overkill for their purpose. They are much stronger than the aluminum hinge that they are mounting to the rib and door.


 
Feb 01, 2020     Tie-downs - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Tested the squat switch again. Was hoping that the spray electrical cleaner from yesterday would have worked it's way into the contacts and gotten the switches working again. No such luck. It looks like I'm going to have to rely on a single gear squat switch and maybe a shield to prevent inadvertently hitting the retract switch while on the ground.

One thing that's missing from this plane is/are tie-down points. I've been looking at various spots to mount them. I considered different areas within the wheel well but those locations would either be in the way for the retraction gear or the tie-down rope could potentially drag on the linkages or the gear door. I could have chosen a location outboard of the wheel wells, secured to the spar somehow, but I didn't want to mess with the spar. I'd rather use hard points already part of the spar assembly. I've decided to secure some brackets to the backside of the spar using the bolts that hold the landing gear mounting plate to the spar. If that area is strong enough for the landing gear, then it's also strong enough for a tie down point.

I fabricated the pieces from some steel angle. A few minutes drilling holes, a few minutes making sparks with the angle grinder, and then a bit of clean up with some more delicate tools resulted in a decent pair of brackets. Further cleanup and then a coating of primer and they're ready for install.


 
Jan 31, 2020     Squat switch testing and gear door connections - (1.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Did some further testing on the squat switches. Used a long piece of music wire to reach into the landing gear and touch the electrical connections on each of the switches. This allowed me to test the continuity of the wiring for each gear leg. The good news is that the wiring is intact. The bad news is that it proves that the switches are faulty. After more attempts and inspection, I'm still at a loss on how to remove them and replace them. I don't think switch accessibility and maintenance was considered during the design of the gear. I put a long straw in the nozzle of some switch contact cleaner and gave the switches a generous spraying. My hopes was that cleaned the contact points and got the switches working. So far, no luck. Worst case scenario; I only rely on the working squat switch in the LH gear. I could install a cover on the retraction switch that's on the panel. That could help prevent inadvertently retracting the gear when the plane is on the ground.

Had a look at the links that connected the landing gear doors to the gear itself. Only 3 of the 4 links "survived" to make it to me. One of the 3 was badly bent and when I attempted to straighten it, it cracked. It actually made it to within about 1/4" of being straight before it cracked. I was surprised that it made it that far. Each of the links were made like turnbuckles with opposites threads on opposite ends. There are some beautifully machined fittings on either end that threaded into each end allowing one to rotate the link to shorten or lengthen the connection without having to disconnect it from the gear door. Unfortunately only one of the fittings survived undamaged. So I'll have to make something to replace them.


 
Jan 31, 2020     Pitot Tube Install and misc cleanup - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Installed aluminum tubing for pitot tube. Surprisingly it took longer than originally expected. Pushing 1/4" diameter tubing through many 1/4" holes results in a bit of friction and a bit of a battle. Each rib has two holes to feed the tubing through; the rib itself and the doubler on the other side of the rib stringers. So ultimately there are about a dozen holes for each section of tubing.

Cleaned up a few misc areas.


 
Jan 30, 2020     Inspection and measurement - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Used the dye penetrant to check the RH gear legs for any more cracks beyond what I could see with my naked eye. Fortunately no more cracks. See attached picture of the crack. I'll get that fixed up when the fork is welded on. Once the gear leg was all cleaned up I took measurements of everything to make the necessary design changes to get the ideal fit for the new wheel/tire combo.

While I was in the cleaning mood, I cleaned up the retraction link and reassembled the entire upper leg and retract system. The link had 50 years of staining on it so a bit of time with some 600 grit sandpaper and elbow grease and it's nice and shiny. Not really important for the operation of the plane but it felt like the right thing to do. Gave it a coating of spray wax to seal it and protect it for another 50 years.


 
Jan 29, 2020     Squat switch - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Today I finished cleaning up the RH landing gear and tried to figure out the wiring of the squat switch.

The squat switch is used to identify when the landing gear is supporting the weight of the plane. Most importantly, this switch provides the lockout logic so that one can't retract the landing gear when the plane is resting on the ground. That would be a bad day.

A simple switch is either open or closed requiring two wires. The existing wiring that's coming out of the gear legs is 4 wires. What do all these wires do? What is the logic? I figured this would be a simple and fun process to determine the switch operation and logic. I should mention that the switches are buried into the landing gear and I hadn't been able to figure out how to see them let alone access them. It goes without saying, that the switches are not shown in the drawings. Anywhere. And the drawings of the gear legs are at best vague, and in some cases, different from what was built.

By removing the central rod from the lower leg, I was able to manually feed it through the centre of the upper leg and I could hear it tripping a micro switch. This rod is about 1/8" diameter and is normally secured to the bottom of the lower slider. It slides up into the upper housing when the gear is compressed with the weight of the plane to trip the squat switch.

I stripped the insulation from the four wires and labelled them 1 through 4. The numbers really didn't matter, they are just to identify one wire from another. I tested the continuity between each wire with the rod out and with the rod in. In all cases the circuits were open. That is, it didn't make a difference whether the rod was in or not. Well that won't do. Doing the same thing on the LH gear I was able to determine that there were two pair of circuits. When the rod is inserted (weight on the landing gear) each pair of circuits are closed. When the rod is removed (weight off the landing gear), all circuits are open.

Unfortunately I'm not getting that output from the RH gear.

Going back to the RH gear, I could see that the central hole in the upper leg has threads in threads in the fitting. As luck would have it, the hole was an 8mm thread and I just happened to have some long 8mm bolts that were used to bolt the landing gear assembly to the spar. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the centre of a heavy steel plate and passed the bolt through it, threading it fully into the end of the fitting within the upper leg. Turning it over so that the weight of the plate was hanging on the bolt, I gave the gear leg a couple of vertical jolts. Success! The inertia of the heavy plate pulled the fitting from the gear leg. The fitting was just press fit into the inner cylinder.

With the fitting removed I could see that the squat switch is actually two microswitches. Hence the four wires coming out of the top of the gear legs. These switches are installed in an assembly that's mounted about 6 inches into the gear leg. I'm still not able to access them yet. I believe the inner cylinder is press fit onto a boss at the opposite end of the gear leg. At this point I don't know how to access them or how to remove the inner cylinder. I might have to sleep on it.


 
Jan 28, 2020     New Wheels and Brakes - (3 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
My Matco wheels and brakes arrived today from AC Spruce. Yay! I took the angle grinder to the original fork to remove the brake mounting post and axle. I am just using the original fork to test fit the whole assembly and solve any fitment issues. Once I have determined the fitment, I'll design a new fork for the new wheels and brakes.

Since I was back to the landing gear, I decided to have a good look at the RH gear and start figuring out what needs to be done with it. I disassembled and started cleaning it. Discovered what appears to be a crack in the upper end of the outer housing. This isn't surprising as there was a lot of force applied to the gear when it last "touched down". I'll check the entire assembly with dye penetrant.


 
Jan 28, 2020     Trim servo work and rudder mounted strobe/antenna. - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage
Having looked at the great collection of photos that Ray took when he received and disassembled the plane, I realized that I had the trim servo arm in the wrong position. It can travel a full 360 degrees and I had the arm positioned 180 degrees from where it was supposed to be. I connected the servo motor up to some power and rotated it the required 180 degrees. While I was at it, it was a good opportunity to experiment with the trim indicator gauge. Experimenting a bit I figured out how it was supposed to be connected.

The trim position indicator in the cockpit is in French. The instrument has the title TAB and it has a needle that swings between two extremes. The one extreme is titled CABRE and the other extreme is titled PIQUE. My thoughts are CABRE refers to CLIMB and PIQUE refers to DIVE.

My reasoning is that CABRE translates literally to REAR. If I put that in the context of a horse, a horse that rears is on it's hind legs and it's front end is certainly higher. PIQUE translates into PIKE, which also implies stab, as into the ground. So my reasoning is that's the trim set for nose down or diving attitude.

See attached photos. As you can see the trim indicator moves in relation to the trim tab.

One of the improvements I'm making on the plane is to provide capability to add strobe and position lights and the potential for ADS-B out. This requires a special antenna for ADS-B. I really like the antennas that uAvionix has developed that are direct replacement for the standard lights. This requires a mounting area on the rudder. I spent a bit of time trying to determine the ideal location both for antenna operation and structural integrity of the rudder. One of the risks is that it locates the antenna about shin level. Anyone walking around the tail of the plane risks running into the antenna.


 
Jan 26, 2020     Back to the spar attachment. - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Tested the remaining wing attach pins and components with the dye penetrant. Happy to say that no cracks found anywhere. The red dye penetrant and the white developer are really noxious so chose to spray it outside. They are both extremely messy too. So after I finished the inspection, I gave all the parts a thorough cleaning in a bath of lacquer thinner.

While I was in the cleaning mood, I cleaned up the last of the aluminum studs that pass through the wing attach plate. Some of the previous studs still had some paint or varnish still on them. Afterwards, I took a 12mm die and cleaned the threads on the studs to simplify reinstallation.

I dug out the three remaining threaded inserts from the original spar. These inserts receive the screws to hold the end plate on. Also found the 4 screws that thread into it. This was a great find as the screws are somewhat unique in their size and certainly not available from AC Spruce or other conventional sources. Ray had told me they were in the collection but I missed them on my first and second pass. Certainly much easier to find once I had one in my hand to compare to.


 
Jan 25, 2020     Elevator trim motor - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage
Decided to change it up today. Wanted to work on something different for a bit. The elevator trim motor has always intrigued me. Like many of the pieces on this plane it's a one-off. It's machined from a solid block of aluminum and it has some electrical connections on one side of it and an arm with a ball on another side. There are 6 electrical connections. Two are obvious connections for the resistive potentiometer to identify travel. I'm not sure what they fed on the instrument panel as I've not noticed an indicator to show trim position. The other 4 connections had me intrigued. I removed the electrical plate to see how things are connected. It's a combination of 2 limit switches that are triggered by a cam on the output shaft and connections to the motor. I also removed the backside of this trim motor assembly. Again, the workmanship of the machining is amazing. The backplate is held in place by two countersunk screws. These screws are removed and then screwed into threaded holes just below their original holes. This pushes the backplate out. The pieces are built so snugly there would be no way to remove the backplate without threading these screws into the holes. Removing the backplate exposes another treasure. There are a series of gears inside that are like watch pieces. They are beautifully machined. They spun ever so smoothly and didn't need any cleaning or lubrication. I'm pleased to say that the motor itself still works. I was just able to see that it was made in Germany and not in France.

Messing around with this allowed me to understand the wiring for this trim motor and allowed me to test it. I then mounted it into the elevator and set the trim arm in the approximate spot where it will be in use. I measured the resistance on the potentiometer over the expected travel. The resistance over that range runs from about 360 to 580 ohms.

Ray had cut out a new access cover plate. I installed it, back drilled it, countersunk the topside and screwed it in place.


 
Jan 24, 2020     More spar routing - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Routed the upper spar cap just like I had done with the lower spar cap yesterday.

Used dye penetrant and developer to check for cracks in the wing mounting pins and associated fittings. Checked the wing mounting plate too.


 
Jan 23, 2020     Spar routing - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Picked up a new router bit. A 1/4" diameter, spiral, upcut bit. This allowed me to cut a slot for the narrow end of the wing attach plate and still get the full 2" depth plunge that I needed.

I practiced twice on a couple of laminations of 2x4s that I had screwed together. This allowed me to practice the handling of the router with this long bit and it allowed me to experiment and practice with the aluminum angle sections as fences. Firstly the 2x4s were screwed together well outside the area that I was going to route and I made sure the screwheads were well below the surface of the 2x4. I then levelled the surface of the 2x4 lamination with the thickness planer. Clamping the table together like I had done previously and then clamping the fences to provide guidance for a nice straight 8mm wide slot the full length of the attachment plate.
I experimented with the depth of the router bit for each pass and after a few successive passes, I was able to get the full 2" depth needed to bury the attachment plate.
After the 8mm wide slot was cut, I moved the fences outwards 2mm on each side and cut the 12 mm wide slot. Repeated twice more to get all 4 widths cut and the attachment plate to fit.
After 2 hours experimenting and practicing on the cheap 2x4s, it was time to tackle the lower spar cap. Fortunately all the lessons were learnt with the 2x4s and cutting the notch in the actual spar was a non-event.


 
Jan 21, 2020     Router table build and experiment - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Using the MDF from the spar building table, I built up two table halves to support the router and guide fences. I will use this these tables and fences when I cut out the groove in the spar for the wing attach plate. Using a couple of 2x4s screwed together to simulate the spar, I clamped the tables to the spar and the fences to the tables. I don't have the correct sized router bit yet but that was ok, this was just a test run. It's a good thing I'm experimenting on cheap 2x4s, as it didn't turn out as successfully as I wanted. I found the MDF fences that I'd made flexed more than I expected. Additionally, I had made the fences the length of the wing attach plate. This meant that the C-clamps that held it into place prevented the router from running the full length.

So lessons learned:
1. Use something stiffer for fence. - I'm going to use some aluminum angle.
2. The fences need to be longer. - 4 foot sections of aluminum angle should provide enough length. The router table is already 4 feet long.
3. The 2mm steps in the fence aren't all that effective when tracking with a large router. - Solution will be to set the fence at the narrowest width of plate, route the centre channel, then move the fence back 2 mm for the next width of routing.

Amateur built or experimental aircraft is about learning.


 
Jan 20, 2020     Spar connection plates and studs - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Spent a little bit of time cleaning up the ends of the root block and the landing gear block. The root block wasn't perfectly lined up during the gluing so the hemispherical cut out on the one end isn't perfectly lined up. It's not critical as this is strictly the transition at the end. The 2" holes for the landing gear shafts will be drilled after installation. They need to be perfectly lined up and that's best done in when it's part of the spar.

Spent some time cleaning up the studs and plates that hold the wing mount in place in the spar. They were covered with paint and varnish. Additionally, some of the studs had cotter pins to hold the nuts in place. These cotter pins were rusted and need to be replaced. These studs are actually custom made aluminum rods with custom made aluminum nuts threaded onto each end. The nuts have a shoulder on them to fit into the holes in the plates. I have to replace a few of the studs that can't be reused. No big surprise, but there are no drawings for any of these pieces. My options are to replace them with AN5 bolts and making accommodations for the smaller diameter, or make some from aluminum rod turned down to 12 mm and alodined. Something to consider...


 
Jan 19, 2020     Wing mounting plate dimensions - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
I'm going to need a drill guide for making the mounting holes for the spar plate. These are the ten bolt holes that hold the spar to the aluminum tongue. Since the drawing for the wing mounting plate doesn't have the bolt spacing dimensions shown, I had to measure the original one.

These bolt holes were drilled during assembly but it appears that they had some sort of external jig to guide their drill. The spacing for the bolt holes for the top and the bottom tongues are both the same, but the spacing isn't the same between all the holes. Most of the spacing are 75 mm but they vary from 73 mm to as much as 83 mm. I suspect that the lightening slots were machined into the tongue after the bolt holes were drilled.

I've measured the spacing and had my son draw them up on Solidworks for me. This is the Solidworks program that is available for free to all EAA members.

Since it had finally warmed up today (above freezing) I took the planer outside and shaved down the wing root block and landing gear block to match the width of the spar caps. It was great to get outside again. It's hasn't been warmer than -20C for the past week.


 
Jan 17, 2020     Another light day - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Added ply stiffeners to the balsa nose ribs.

Started making the required jigs to cut slot in spar. I'll have to use a router to cut a slot in the top and bottom of the spar to fit the wing mounting plate. I'll set up some fences to allow me to cut that groove accurately. I'm going to have to pick up a new router bit to get the depth I need. Yay, more tools.

Spent a bit of time looking at the threaded bushings that the end plate screws into. Just thinking through the steps to get this critter built. I don't think there are any of the original screws left that held the end plate onto the spar and I can't begin to guess what thread size Dalotel decided to make these screws. The sizes aren't shown on the incomplete drawing for the end plate. I'll have to remove one of the screws from the LH wing to check it for size and see if I can get identical screws for the RH side. My guess is that it's not likely to happen. I may have to machine some new threaded bushings for new screws for the RH side. Stay tuned.


 
Jan 15, 2020     Balsa nose ribs - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Did some light work today by making some balsa nose ribs on some of the new ribs. Glued balsa laminations onto the leading edge subspar and then with my long sanding block, shaped the blocks to accurately match the shape of the existing nose ribs.


 
Jan 14, 2020     Wing mounting plate prep - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
The wing is bolted to the fuselage by a beautifully machined assembly that is glued and bolted to the spar. This assembly is made up of an upper and a lower tongues each extending into the spar by 3 feet. The tongues are bolted to the spar by 20 custom made aluminum pins and six of the AN5 bolts used as part of the landing gear. I spent some time cleaning up this assembly as it had some of the original spar still glued to it. A bit of work scraping, sanding, and then scrubbing with some scotchbrite to remove any serious scratches. There were a few deep marks and one gouge that I had to file and sand away to eliminate them as stress riser points. Not unlike dressing a damaged aluminum propellor.

I also removed the wing from the rotisserie so I could spend some time looking at the LH wing root and consider how the additional plate is added. Personally, I see no need for this additional plate. It just looks like some added complexity for no value. It doesn't provide any twisting resistance, nor should it as the distance between the front and rear spars would provide significantly greater strength and resistance to twisting. This plate is another beautifully machined piece of aluminum but for no value. There is a pencil sketch of the wing mount and this additional plate is shown, but not in great detail.


 
Jan 14, 2020     Inserted landing gear crank pin - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Took advantage of the cold outside to chill and shrink the newly machined pin for the landing gear crank. This pin is designed to have an extremely tight fit in the landing retract crank. My machinist had used a 10 ton press to push the damaged pin out. Since I don't have anything as powerful as that I wanted to ensure that I had the greatest chance of success by using temperature difference. Since it's -32 C outside, there's a lot of temperature difference from when it was machined. I also heated up the aluminum crank arm that this pin fits into. I used a propane torch and gently heated it to get the maximum potential difference in temps between the two pieces. I prepared some wooden blocks to fit into my vise to protect these pieces and to provide room for the pin to protrude once it was pushed into place. I practised the motions and prepared everything for this critical activity as there would be no second chance. Wearing gloves I pulled the pin back in from the cold and brought it to the nice warm aluminum crank. It just dropped right in. There was no effort at all. I couldn't believe how much expansion there was on the warm aluminum and how much contraction there was on the cold steel. Within seconds the aluminum had contracted and the steel had expanded. The pin was as snug as a bug and it didn't require any effort with the vise. It would have been interesting to see if the pin would have dropped in if the aluminum hadn't been heated.

I then added the safety wire to the cap screws that connect the arm to the shaft and reinserted the assembly into the wing and reconnected the retract linkage.


 
Jan 13, 2020     Rear spar frustrations - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Started off quite easily and successfully. I had to taper the outboard ends of the rear spar caps. They taper from a depth of 20 mm down to 10 mm over the last foot of span. Easy schmeazy, especially with my new blade in my hand plane. Yay, gotta love new tools.

I marked out the outline for the rear spar on my table top by snapping two chalk lines and then enhancing those lines with a marker. The spar caps were clamped down on these lines and then the rib locations were marked. At first it seemed that the rib locations were a little odd but I assumed that it was because only the outboard half of the ribs are evenly spaced while the inboard half are uniquely spaced. I then started measuring and locating where the aileron hinge mounts and their associated stiffeners go. At this point, it was clear that something wasn't right. The hinge points were not in the correct locations in relation to the ribs. Something was out, but what? After a lot of measuring, comparing, converting units and remeasuring it became obvious that I have another situation where the drawings aren't perfectly correct. The rib spacing on the drawing is incorrect. Additionally, the dimension shown for the aileron was incorrect.

Ultimately, I confirmed the location of the inboard hinge mount and the neighbouring rib. From there I used the actual aileron to confirm the hinge points. Drawings may be incorrect, but the actual item never lies.


 
Jan 12, 2020     Round two for today - full length spars - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
I figured that I could continue on some work and not have to go outside again today; scarf joints!

It was time to get the spars to their proper lengths. This entailed cutting down the inboard end a bit to clean things up and adding a short extension onto the outboard ends of main spar top cap and both caps of the rear spar.

The top cap of the front spar needs to be 151-1/2" long. The longest board that I had to work with when I made the spar cap was something like 148" long. So yeah, a scarf joint just to get the last few inches. It was a similar situation for the rear spar. The top cap needed to be 144-1/2" long and all I had to use for that piece was a 12' long board. 12' = 144". So yeah, short by 1/2". Anyway, a little bit of work with a hand plane and the pieces fit up nicely.


 
Jan 12, 2020     I hate the cold - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps from yesterday's work. Cleaned off surfaces from blocks and laminated the pairs of blocks together with the individual blocks. The total thickness for all 5 laminations is about 5" thick. They will need to be thinned to about 4-1/4" thick. (Remember the spar thickness of 107.8 mm) The outer edges of the laminations will be trimmed back quite a bit too so not a concern that the edges are currently all over the place. They will be level with one another once they are cut to the appropriate size. The distance between the longer, somewhat parallel sides isn't shown on the drawings. That dimensions is based on the distance between the upper and lower spar caps and the edges will be cut to fit snugly between the caps.

I marked the lower spar cap and took it outside to plane down to the correct thickness. Because it's -24C outside (-36C with the windchill) I set the power hand planer to the most aggressive cutting and chopped away at the spar. I got it to close to the required thickness and then dialled the hand planer back to something less aggressive to finish it off. 15 minutes with the hand planer and I was done; both with the planing and with the cold. I went back into the shop for a while to warm up and get some sand paper. 10 more minutes outside of vigorous sanding and that was it. Truly done.

No photos outside, it was too cold for the fingers or the phone.


 
Jan 11, 2020     Spar Laminations and More - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Laminated the third layer on the lower spar cap. Lots of glue, lots of clamps, lots of fun.

Marked out the hole and cut locations on the new pieces of ash. Had to get a new 2" bit from Lee Valley today as the one I had borrowed was damaged and wasn't all that effective at cutting holes. The new bit made quick work of it. Lee Valley's tools are wonderful. Cut out the pieces for the landing gear mounts and the spar root mount. They will be made up from 5 laminations each. Glued and clamped two sets of 2 laminations today. Will then laminate the pairs and the individual piece together tomorrow to get the 5 layers. Doing it this way allowed me to keep on progressing down the right track. I could use my smaller clamps for the pairs of laminations and then tomorrow when the large clamps are available again, I'll be able to use them to glue the 5 layers together.

While I was at it I glued the single lamination piece for the rear spar.

Lastly, I snuck outside for a few minutes in the cold with the thickness planer to create some glue sample stringers. 10 minutes was enough and I'll likely have enough pieces for the rest of the project.


 
Jan 10, 2020     Bottom Spar Cap - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Picked up some ash boards today for dense, hard wood for a few structural points in the spar. Most obviously, the landing gear attachment point and the roots of both spars.

Ran the ash boards through the thickness planer, partly to get a nice, smooth and clean surface for laminating and partly for fun. Besides, it's likely to be the last day for the next week that I'll be able to go outside for more than a few minutes. Today got up to a balmy -10C, where next week it's forecast to get down to -29C. Why do we live in this climate

Anyway, back into the shop. Laminated the first and second layers of the bottom cap of the main spar. The photo doesn't look much different than previous laminations but it is new work.


 
Jan 09, 2020     Spar work - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps from spar laminations. All sorts of excess glue dripped down over the sides which is a good thing. Better too much glue than not enough.

I used a surform file to trim the excess glue off the sides and a light pass through the thickness planer to clean everything up. I then marked the spar sides to show how much needed to be removed. The cap goes from 3 laminations of 26 mm thick each at the root (78 mm total) to a single layer only 10 mm thick at the tip. The transition from 78mm to 10 mm occurs in approximately the middle third of the span. Taking the spar outside into the cold and snowy weather I spent about 1/2 hour with a powered hand plane to get the taper close. Another 1/2 hour with some sandpaper and the spar cap is beautiful. (It took me another 1/2 hour in the heated shop to warm up again.)

With the spar table clear I was able to lay down the two pieces for the bottom spar cap. Due to knots and flaws in the wood I wasn't able to make this out of a single piece of wood. I had to glue two pieces together along the length of the spar to get the required width. Clamps and clamps and more clamps allowed me to glue this into on piece.


 
Jan 08, 2020     Spar Work and More - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Laminated third layer to spar uppers. As the spar's getting thicker, it's reducing the number of clamps that I have that will fit. Fortunately, each successive lamination is shorter than the previous section so it reduces the number of clamps required.

While the spar is drying, I cut out and laminated some of the doublers for the spar. Ten doublers in all. After the glue dries, I'll be able to quickly sand each of them to final required dimensions and cut out lightening holes.

While the doublers were drying, I trimmed some of the spar material to prepare for the scarf joints and trimmed the second lamination on the second spar. It tapers from 20 mm thick to zero over 1174 mm. Almost a 60:1 slope. A bit of work with the band saw, then a power hand planer, then, my favourite, sanding!


 
Jan 07, 2020     Started the Spar - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Before starting the spar I cleaned up the area that I'd worked on and glued yesterday.

Spent way too much time trying to build a temporary work table to build the spar on. I set up some sawhorses and tried to shim them into place so that they were even and level without any twist. I had a couple of steel framing studs to build a flat, continuous table top. Because of the potential movement of the sawhorses it just wasn't working adequately.

Looking at my workbench, I realized I could make it work. It was certainly long enough, and if I located the work area properly, I'd still have full access to my tool boxes on the bench top. Sighting down the workbench I could see that it was straight and level. Putting a digital level on it confirmed that there was no twist along the length of it. Sooooo, after all that work trying to level and stabilize the sawhorses, the work bench it is.

I set the steel stud open side down on the workbench and then stacked with alternating joints, two layers of 3/4" MDF on top of it. I'd cut the MDF into 6" wide strips to give me a smooth table top that I could build on and clamp to.

Again, out with the digital level and checked. A-Ok. I'm now on the right track.

So, with little fanfare and not a lot to it, I laminated the top two layers of the main spar. I spread thin epoxy on the mating surfaces of the boards to fully wet each side, then I spread on some more epoxy with high strength flox mixed in. This mixture is to take up any minor gaps in the surface. Then I started clamping. I would have liked to have more clamps but I'm sure that it's fine.


 
Jan 06, 2020     Landing Gear Access Panel Redone - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
I wasn't happy with the location of the access panel for the retraction gearing mechanism. To provide better access to adjust the limit switches, the panel needed to be move back about an inch and a half. So I removed the previously installed supports and made new ones to locate the panel in the better spot. While I was at it I cut and sanded similar supports for the panel on the RH wing. I've taped them together with the panel and put it in the collection of goodies for the RH wing.

Of course, once the glue dries, I'll have to spend a few minutes sanding everything flush with the ribs. Sanding is so much fun.


 
Jan 06, 2020     Picked up new pin from machining - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Picked up newly machined pin from machinist. This pin is part of the landing gear retraction linkage. I've had a wooden dowel in it's place for the time being so it will be nice to get this pin into place for complete assembly. I'll have to press the pin into the idler arm on the retraction system.


 
Jan 05, 2020     No sanding today, just planing - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Spent a couple of hours going through the last pieces of wood to make the spars. Since the spars are made of laminations to get the required depth, I decided it wouldn't be an issue to glue a couple of pieces together to get the required width for one of the laminations. Additionally, I was able to use a 12' section of lumber to cut the required pieces for the rear spar. I will have to splice a short section onto the pieces to get the required length of 13' though. Not an issue. As long as it's done as per AC43-13....

Also cut and planed additional lengths of 6mm x 12mm for stringer material.

No pictures of all this work. There is just a huge pile of wood shavings that I created outside in the subfreezing temperatures. I was trying to get it all done before the real cold weather that we're expecting later this week. -20C uggh!
 
Jan 05, 2020     New Torque tube and Universal Joint - (1.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Compared new retract torque tube and splined section with original, undamaged torque tube. The new torque tube is the splined section and universal joint from a steering column. It will replace the torque tube that was bent in the accident. Test fit new tube and universal joint to confirm it will work.

Good news, it will. It will require a bit of machining to get the ends to match up and such but it's all doable. Certainly less work than trying to machine a brand new torque tube and splined section as per the original one.


 
Jan 04, 2020     Major Portion Inspection       Category: Inspection
I had my MD-RA inspector over today to inspect the project thus far. The MD-RA inspector in Canada is roughly the equivalent to the DAR inspector in the US. One of the key differences is that in Canada the inspector will come multiple times throughout the build to review the progress and then a final inspection prior to flight. My understanding is that the DAR inspection in the US is only the final inspection.

Today's inspection was to review what was needed to be done by myself or others (or even Ray, the previous owner) vs. what was from a flying aircraft. The definition of an amateur built aircraft is that the builder does at least 51% of the work. For example, Vans RV kits are beautifully engineered such that even the quick build kit requires the builder to do at least 51% of the work. Each section of the build is considered and scored on builder vs. factory or previous aircraft. My inspector went through the project and he gave the project a score of 80%. That is, only 20% of the work to get the plane flying will be from the original build the remainder will be done by me. I reviewed the project myself and was a little more critical. I gave the project a score of 71%. Either way, it's a lot more than the required 51% and it's therefore well within the guidelines to be classified as an amateur built.

I should point out that the MD-RA inspectors are volunteers with pretty specific training and experience on building and maintaining aircraft. My inspector has built many planes himself so he knows what he's looking at. He joined the RCAF in 1955 and flew with them until 1980. He's got thousands of hours on jet fighters of that era. Additionally he's flown WWI rebuilds and replicas, WWII warbirds, test flown many different aircraft from homebuilts to jets and he flew water bombers for many years. Certainly some incredible experience.


 
Jan 03, 2020     A little bit of planing and yeah, more sanding - (1 hour) Category: Wings
A new bearing and new gear chains for the thickness planer allowed me to rebuild it today. Now it runs as smooth as a Dalotel landing gear gearbox. Hmmmm, I don't expect that will become a common expression. Oh well. The planer is now running real smooth.

I tested the planer first by running a couple of junk boards through it.

After I was satisfied with the performance of the planer, I ran one the boards for my spar through it. I shaved down 13 linear feet of 4.5" wide Douglas Fir. Fresh wood provides such a beautiful smell.

Of course, a day wouldn't be complete without a little more sanding.
 
Jan 02, 2020     Remaining bolts arrived - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
The AN5-60A bolts from AirCraft Spruce arrived earlier this week. Installed them in the landing gear mounting plates. This effectively ties the landing gear to the spar. Ideally, I should have ordered bolts about 1/4" shorter but these will work with a few extra washers.


 
Jan 01, 2020     Final sand? Not likely. - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Spent the morning fixing the thickness planer that cratered yesterday. Discovered that the outboard bearing was what had failed and that the planer blades effectively took care of any of the loose pieces that dropped out. The outer race was jammed in the housing and the inner race was jammed on the planer roller. Ended up using the dremel tool and patience to cut each of the races to free them from where they were stuck. Fortunately, the dust seal on the bearing was still intact and the bearing number was readable. Ordered a replacement bearing from Amazon. It should be here by the weekend. Disassembled the tractor rollers and found that the chains that power them are very stiff. One of them was off the cogs and the second one looked like it had skipped some cogs at some point. Cleaned the chains with some varsol and then immersed the chains in an oil bath. Unfortunately that hasn't loosed the chains up much. Some searching on the net for replacements wasn't very successful. Maybe more luck tomorrow. So since the planer was out of commission, it was time to sand.

Spent 3 hours outside making dust. Perfect spot for it. Much better than making all that dust in the shop. Used the leaf blower to clean things off before putting the wing back in the shop. It was probably a good thing the sun went down forcing me to stop. I likely would have spent another hour sanding and not really accomplishing anything.


 
Dec 31, 2019     Sorted and prepped wood for RH spar - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
I thought it would be neat to start the new spar in the new year so I sorted through the collection of Douglas Fir that I've been keeping since my last project. My desire was to build the RH spar using this lumber. Despite having a couple hundred pounds of lumber, after measuring and careful scrutiny of my current collection, I've got to get more. Some of the lumber that I have has knots in critical locations, or grain that runs out to the edge, or not long or wide or thick enough for the spar laminates. The main spar is a made of six laminations; three on the top and three on the bottom. The laminates are 4-1/4" wide (107.8mm per the plans) and each laminate is about an inch thick (26 mm to be precise). There are three different lengths on the top laminations and 3 different lengths on the bottom laminations. To get the required length and width and thickness requires up to a 13' long section without any knots or grain runout or pitch pockets. There is an allowable amount of imperfections permitted but it's not easy to get a good section of wood.

Sometimes you discover some imperfections when you're prepping the wood. For example, there was a real nice piece about 20' long that was about 9" wide and 1-1/2" thick. It looked like it could be used for a few laminations. As it turned out, there were a couple of knots about a third and two thirds of the way down the length of it. They were not visible from one side but they are clearly visible on the other side. I don't expect that planing the board down to it's required thickness will be enough to remove those knots.

Speaking of planer, after about an hour of using the planer, it decided to make metal and chew up the board that was in it. I'm not sure where this metal came from and what the issue is but that's something I'll have to look into. A quick glance at the blades suggest that they are ok.


 
Dec 28, 2019     Stiffener, access panel, and oh yeah, more sanding. - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Getting close to the final sand. I keep finding low spots and filling them with epoxy and fibre filler to bring them up. Afterwards requires some sanding to get them close. The final sand will use a 4' long section of aluminum hand railing. Since it will be a general area sand, I won't be able to hold the vacuum to capture the majority of dust so I'm waiting for a warm day to bring the wing outside to do that.

Created the access panel for the great retraction box. While I was at it, I cut out and prepped the panel for the RH wing too.

While looking at the underside near the wheel well, I decided that I should make a skin stiffener similar to what was done on the topside. The skin on the underside in that area won't be as stiff as the topside due to the hole for the wheel and the rest of the landing gear. As such, some additional skin stiffening should be added. Maybe it was there in the original, maybe it wasn't. It wasn't shown in the drawings but I'm adding it anyway. It won't hurt.

Lastly, I spent some time reviewing AC 43.13-1B - Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair, and looking at the fabric covering on the aileron. From what I can see, the aileron and likely the wing were not covered as per AC 43-13. The rib stitching was too far apart and technically, there should have been a layer of fabric tape over the seam at the front edge of the aileron. Similarly, there should have been fabric tape over the seam at the leading edge of the wing. I suspect there wasn't.


 
Dec 26, 2019     Sanding continued and aileron fitting - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Yeah, more sanding. But then for something different I remounted the aileron and discovered that I had to modify the outboard bracket nutplate that I had created last month. This was the first time I'd mounted the aileron since then and I hadn't fully tested everything for fit at that time. Oh well. A bit of backwards to go forwards. Once the aileron was mounted I sanded the stub ribs between the rear spar and the front of the ailerons. I made sure there was sufficient and even clearance at each rib.

I took out a sharpie marker and outlined the rib stitching patches and reinforcements on the covering. I think I'd taken a picture of them previously but they were very hard to see with the heavy coat of paint that was on the fabric. It's very easy to see now and it will be helpful when it comes time to recover. The aileron was covered with one piece of fabric. The bottom was covered first and wrapped around the leading edge of the aileron and cut about an inch above the centre line of the aileron. The fabric was pulled over the ends of the aileron and glued and then the fabric was wrapped around the trailing edge and forward to the centre line of the aileron. The fabric was pulled down over the ends and glued to the ribs near the bottom surface.

I replaced a rib stringer that had been cut at one point. I wasn't pleased with it and I finally got around to splicing a new section in. It didn't take that long to do. I don't know why I put it off for so long.


 
Dec 24, 2019     Planing and sanding and sanding and sanding - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Got to use the plane again today to shape the trailing edge and trim a few other places on the wing. Then lots of time spent sanding in localized areas.


 
Dec 23, 2019     Almost done all the stringers and stiffeners and such. - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Tested all the glue test blocks so far. As desired, all the breaks were at the wood and not the glue. Carry on.

Glued the last of the stringer and stiffeners in place.

Spent some time going over various glue joints and filing and sanding away excess glue. Not really necessary but my OCD makes me do it. I guess it's reducing the overall weight of the airplane by a few grams at a time. Lighter planes fly better anyway. Especially if/when doing aerobatics.

I was so pleased with the outcome of the new retract indicator pin, I decided to clean up the other one. A few minutes with some sandpaper, starting at 400 grit and working my way to 2000 grit removed the surface scoring and grime and oxidation. Removed the original red paint and then cleaned the pin and gave it a new coating of red on the end and at the midway point. Photo shows left to right, the original damaged pin, the newly restored original pin, and brand new pin from a couple of days ago.


 
Dec 22, 2019     Sanding, fitting and more - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Planed and sanded the new section of subspar. Really pleased with the splice joint. Fitted little stiffeners and stringers to hold various doublers and webbing in place.


 
Dec 21, 2019     Retract indicator pin - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Took a break from sanding and gluing and decided to fabricate a new indicator pin. There are indicator pins at the top of each gear leg that extend upwards from the top surface of the wing when the gear is down. They retract flush with the wing surface when the gear is retracted. One of the indicator pins was damaged and unusable. To create this pin I took some 1/2" aluminum rod that I had laying around and turned it on the lathe bringing it to match the 8 mm (approx 5/16") diameter of the original rod. I machined an indicator grove in the rod just like the original and drilled a hole through it to secure it to the landing gear with a clevis pin. Even though it's only aluminum, drilling directly through a small diameter rod is a challenge with a simple drill press. The drill bit doesn't want to penetrate and wants to wander as you're starting the hole. A little bit of patience and careful application of pressure allowed me to get the drill to start properly. Thinking about it some more, I could have run a small diameter file across the edge of the rod to provide a shallow for the drill bit to start in making the process easier. Oh well, next time. To cut the slot in the indicator pin, I carefully used a hacksaw to make two parallel cuts and then widened the slot with a narrow file and some sandpaper. A little bit of red paint to match the original markings and voila. I was pretty pleased with the results considering it was all done by hand.


 
Dec 21, 2019     Fixing and Repairs - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
A bunch of sanding today and gluing. While I was at it, decided to attack a few spots that needed fixing. For example, when planing one of the members of the subspar, I uncovered a knot in the wood. This meant that this member had to be removed and replaced in entirety or a section spliced in. Since it was at one end of the subspar, I elected to splice a section in as per AC43-13. Similarly, I did a few repairs on other sections of ribs.

Added cap strips to N3 rib and epoxied into place.


 
Dec 18, 2019     More fitting and sanding and gluing, oh boy! - (2 hours) Category: Wings
Yeah, it seems to be getting monotonous but really there are a lot of tedious steps to build an airplane. One of the frustrating things about building a wood airplane is waiting for the glue to dry. It seems that you can only prep so much then you HAVE to glue some pieces together before you can make any more progress. No photos today but I did glue in the nose section of N3 rib and built up the spar section of the N3 rib. For fitting I had to extend the landing gear. This was a bit of work because the weight of the gear is normally supported by the retract spring. When the wing is inverted, you're lifting the weight of the gear as well as compressing the retract spring.
 
Dec 17, 2019     More fitting and sanding and gluing - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Placed an order with AC Spruce for the new wheels, brakes, and axles. Once those arrive, it will allow me to more accurately mock up the landing gear fork prior to its actual fabrication.

Spent a lot of time sanding and fitting for the access panel supports and for the new sections of N3 ribs. The N3 nose rib is actually made of two independent sections that are bisected by the landing gear when it's retracted. They are nothing like as the plans show so lots of fitting by trial and error. Additionally, they need to provide clearance for installation of the landing gear spring. Good thing there's a photo of the wheel well from the original build. Looking at the old photo I don't see any value in the section of N3 rib glued to the front of the main spar, at least, not in it's triangular shape. As it is, the rib doesn't touch either the top or the bottom skin. I'm planning on a larger rib that actually touches both skins, providing extra support for the skin and extra stability for the rib. We'll see how it goes.

Spent a little bit of time on the pitot system. The pitot tube is mounted to the underside of the left wing and the sensing line runs through the rear spar and then inboard behind the spar and in front of the aileron. This will allow it to enter the cockpit in line with the instrument panel.


 
Dec 16, 2019     Wheel fitting - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
I took the grinder and cut away the buckled and damaged section of the landing gear fork. This allowed me to pull the remaining side of the fork back into approximately the correct position. I then reassembled the landing gear and mounted my tire on the axle to test fit.

I sourced a Goodyear 500 x 5 tire that seemed to have all the right specs. It was the largest diameter tire that I could find with the smallest width. Since the original tires are no longer available I'm having to find something that will fit. The originals are much larger in diameter and very narrow.

Have a look at the last photo. From left to right: A 5.00 - 5 from Aero Classic. Slightly larger diameter is a 5.00 - 5 from Goodyear. Even larger diameter again is a 380-150-5 from Aero Classic. Lastly is the original Dunlop 400 - 100 tire. The first three all fit on a standard 5" wheel. The original tire fit on an 8" wheel with drum brakes. The original wheels and brakes were all custom built for this plane. Only one wheel survived this long and the brakes aren't worth reusing. So even if the original tires were still available, it means new wheels and brakes.

I mounted the Goodyear 5.00 - 5 tire on my plywood "wheel" and mounted it onto the landing gear axle. It will fit easily. I then mounted the 380-150-5 on my plywood "wheel" and tested it for fit. It looks like it might work. It will give me the largest diameter possible and although it's fairly wide, it might just fit into the wheel wells without protruding below the lower wing skin. Since I'm getting new forks built, I'll design them to provide clearance for the wider tire. Since I don't actually need the tires right away, I'll wait until I get closer to completion before ordering new ones. I'll order up some new wheels, brakes and axles from Matco. Once I have them I'll be able to get a better idea on the actual fitment.


 
Dec 15, 2019     Sanding, fitting and more - (4 hours)       Category: Wings
Cleaned up some of the glue joints. Cut hole through stiffeners and second skin on N4 rib for retract spring. Removed N2 nose rib and top skin stiffener from original wing section. Cleaned the original paint off of these pieces and prepped to fit into appropriate spots on new wing.

Cut and prepped new mounting blocks for retract access panels that were shown yesterday.


 
Dec 14, 2019     Prepped landing gear pins - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Cleaned up bearing area on pins that connect linkage to landing gear. Drilled through threaded end to permit a cotter pin to pass through.

Cleaned up and painted landing gear plates for RH wing. I don't need them for a while but I was on a role.


 
Dec 14, 2019     More fittings and sanding and gluing - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
First photo pretty much sums it up.

Added misc blocks and doublers, varnished inside of N4 rib, added second skin to N4 rib, added remaining shear webs to forward subspar, added wing walk supports and braces.

Removed damaged blocks and supports from retract access panels. These original access panels are made from XXX (I can't think of the name right now, I'll update it when it comes to me) and have stiffeners riveted to them. They are in great condition and will be reused. The blocks that they were screwed to were damaged, some of the screws were damaged and some were stuck. The screws threaded into some beautiful nut plates that were mounted to the backside of the support blocks. The nut plates were held in place by tiny brass screws. Unfortunately since most of the access panel screws would need to be replaced and a bunch of the nut plates would need to be replaced, I'm going to replace them all with conventional anchor nuts with AN screws. At least I'm reusing the access panels.


 
Dec 13, 2019     Ribs, Shearwebs, and Doublers - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
More of the same. One of the big steps was the installation of the landing gear torque tube. This wasn't really a big job to do but it was nice to get done. This makes it much easier for me to manually operate the landing gear. To install the torque tube I had to remove the wing from the wing rotisserie and rest the wing on a saw horse for a few minutes. Once the torque tube was installed I put the wing back in the rotisserie for ease of build.


 
Dec 12, 2019     More test fitting - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Although I'm still waiting for some critical pieces to be machined by Pierre, I was able to assemble everything for the landing gear as though I did have the missing pieces. There's a critical pin that connects the pitman arm to the link that connects to the landing gear. I'm hopeful that Pierre will have it done within another week. Instead, I mounted the link to the crank arm with a wooden dowel and held it in place with screws and oversized washers on either end. This allowed me to cycle through the landing gear by rotating the input shaft to the landing gear gearbox. I also identified the direction that the torque shaft will turn during operation. (Top will move forward, towards the leading edge of the wing, similar in direction to reducing the throttle on a motorcycle). This identified the direction the crank arm will move (counterclockwise).

By rotating through full travel operated by the gearbox allowed me to see full travel and all clearances required. Everything looks good, even with the nylon sleeves mounted around the springs. After I'd cycled things I spent some time to clean the nylon sleeves. They had dirt on them that had been there for 40+ years. I should have done it previously but I didn't realize how dirty they were until I grabbed them for the test fit.

I was also able to turn the AN5-80A bolt around such that the head was in the wheel well bay. I wouldn't have been able to remove it the other way, once the skin was on.


 
Dec 11, 2019     More subspar work - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Removed clamps and staples from subspar from yesterday. Removing the staples takes a long time. Inevitably you brake one or two off that leave a tiny stub that's too small to grab to pull out and just large enough to catch your hand on. The only solution is to push them deeper into the wood and leave them there. Where possible I use my rivet squeezer to push them just below the surface or use a hammer and punch.

Did a rough sanding of the subspar top and bottom. Need to get a long sanding block to do it properly so that the airfoil contour is correct. I'd found a 4 foot section of aluminum handrail works great for that purpose. It's the ideal size, shape, and weight. And it's always straight and true. I made one for my 1-Design wing but that piece of aluminum was recently liberated for a family project. I'll pick up another one tomorrow from the aviation department of Home Depot.

I removed the short nose section of N5 rib from the original wing. It's in good condition and with just a touch on the belt sander it fits into my wing. It's just like a "quick build" kit. Ha!

Epoxied in some of the shear webbing for the forward subspar.


 
Dec 10, 2019     Bolts arrived - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
The big news is that the AN5-80A bolts arrived today. Thanks Airfasco. I used them to mount the retract gearing in place. Sadly, with the new subspar in place, I couldn't get one of the bolts in from the front. It had to be inserted from the opposite end. Not a biggie, I just wanted all the bolt heads on one side of the spar. All the other bolts will be inserted from the front of the spar, that way there will be minimal protrusion into the retract area. The photo showing the gearbox mounted shows the nut and washer. Although the photo makes is look like there's no clearance between the end of the bolt and the pitman arm, there is.

Added the shear webbing to the subspar. This closed up the small box for the subspar.


 
Dec 09, 2019     Landing gear bay - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
More of the same. Lots of trimming, fitting, and bracing to ensure that the landing gear can retract without any binding and to get the secondary sub spar into correct position. This sub spar runs along the top of the ribs, from near the leading edge of the root rib, diagonally outboard towards the main spar of the 6th rib. As it goes outboard, it also climbs. Add in the fact that the ribs not only change size, but the airfoil also changes from the root to the tip, well, getting this sub spar into proper place isn't so easy. Did I mention that it's not even shown on the plans? Yeah, a bit of trial and error to get it to fit properly. Eventually, epoxied the secondary sub spar and bracing into place. After that had dried, the structure was stiff enough to elongate hole for spring return. It looks larger than necessary but there's a heavy vinyl sleeve that zips on over the spring to protect everything. Need clearance for that too.

I couldn't wait any longer, I just had to start planing the primary sub spar to shape. A few minutes with the hand plane resulted in a spar cap that roughly matches the rib shape and left a lovely pile of shavings on the floor.


 
Dec 08, 2019     More fitting and cutting and head scratching - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Planed some wood into dimensional stringers then worked on the wheel well area again. Drilled and enlarged hole in rib to allow landing gear retract spring to pass through and operate. Need to enlarge it some more but first I must add stiffeners fro strength. The stiffener that was installed according to plans will have to cut through to permit the spring to fit. Ray sent me a nice picture of this area that was taken during the build. I likely have this photo in all the other great photos that he'd provided. Admittedly I haven't sorted through all of those 50 year old pictures yet. Regardless, the picture that Ray sent me should indicate how the ribs were situated and how everything fit, but as it turns out, they must have made changes to the structure after the picture was taken. The spring return wasn't installed at the time of the picture and looking at it, it wouldn't have fit had they kept the ribs that way. So it seems they must have made some further modifications as they continued with the build.

So it's trial and error as I go.

I ran some tape between the tops of the ribs to replicate the skin. This allows me to visualize how much space I have for the gear to retract into the wing. I'm going to have to mock up some new landing gear forks. The existing ones are damaged beyond use and only provide a vague clue how it will all fit together.

Epoxied in the bottom strip for the leading edge subspar and fabricated the secondary subspar, which will reside where the blue tape is in the photos. All of this will strengthen this area and allow me to cut the stiffener that's in the way of the retract spring.


 
Dec 07, 2019     More fitment and head scratching. - (3.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Completed nose rib number 4. Epoxied into place in wheel well bay. Epoxied leading edge and upper cap strip on forward sub spar. Mounted landing gear and swung it into the retract position to see potential conflicts. Realized that once again, the drawings do not reflect exactly what was built. In fact, nose rib number 3 as drawn didn't even exist on the completed plane, only a short section of rib stiffener. I realized this from the left over pieces from the original wing.

Laid out location for secondary sub spar as shown with blue masking tape in photos. This sub spar will run diagonally from the nose of rib 1 to close to the main spar on rib 6. Actual location needed to be identified and ribs will have to be trimmed accordingly. This sub spar is not shown on the rib plans so notch in rib 4 had to be identified through fitment. Rib 4 will be modified tomorrow or the next day. Additionally, the retract spring runs from the fitting mounted to the main spar at rib 1 to the appropriate bracket on the landing gear. The corresponding notch or hole in rib 4 isn't shown on the drawings so it will have to be located through fitment.

Cut out some plywood discs to mount the new tire to. This will allow me to mock up a new fork assembly and determine fitment for the wheel. Original tire sizes and wheels are no longer available. These new tires will use a standard 5.00 x 5 wheel but give the largest outer diameter possible with the narrowest tire and wheel size available. The original wheel and tire combo were larger diameter but narrower. The challenge will be to fit all this within the wing thickness.

Marked up some drawings for Pierre to machine. He didn't like the fact that the original drawings were in metric. Some simple conversions and some minor changes to the drawings then e-mailed to Pierre to start machining.


 
Dec 06, 2019     Found a machinist - (1 hour)       Category: Research
Nothing built today but I made some real progress anyway. After trying a few different machinists about getting some required pieces built, I found the ideal person. Pierre is a machinist, welder, mechanic, and engine guru. His background is building race cars and components for race cars. He's built some components for aircraft in the past so he doesn't shy away from that. He's got an amazing shop set up for his needs, including an engine dyno. He spent an hour with me showing me his facility and capabilities. While wandering through, something caught my eye. It was a telescoping shaft with a long splined section and a universal joint. Of course! It's a steering column and it, or something like it could be incorporated to replace the damaged torque tube and universal joint for the retract gear. The solution to my problem was lying on the table. It will end up being slightly heavier than the aluminum pieces that it's replacing, but it will be ideal for the application. If I had unlimited budget I could rebuild this plane to original specs, whatever they may be. Since I'm going to have to make some changes anyway, I'm treating these changes as further development of the airplane.

I wasn't allowed to take pictures of the shop area as there were too many race secrets lying about, but I've included a couple of pics of the dyno area.

Pierre is going to start by fabricating some new pins for the landing gear retract mechanism and then weld up some new forks for the gear itself. You know you're reached the right guy when you discover that he has sheets of 4130 in his inventory.


 
Dec 05, 2019     Ribs and Spars in the landing gear bay - (5 hours)       Category: Wings
Prepped the forward section of the ribs in the landing gear bay. This involved cutting and fitting the forward subspar which is located at the 5% chord line. This subspar runs from the root rib to the second rib past the landing gear bay. This ties up and strengthens the skin and leading edge area above the landing gear bay. There are two sections of ribs that need to be made. That is, the forward sections of ribs 3 and 4. Unfortunately the dimensions for this section of rib aren't easy to work with. See attached drawing for rib number 3. The box spar is the rectangle leaning forward a few degrees. What is the length of the section forward of the spar? It isn't clearly defined. There's a dimension from the centre of the spar to leading edge, but who in their right mind would consider using the centre of the spar as a point of reference? There's no way to measure from there. Similarly, there are dimensions that run to points on the rib behind the spar but as I've discovered with this build, not all pieces are as per the drawings. So to create the rib required plotting out the coordinates for the rib and making it longer than required. I cut it out longer than required and then trimmed it down to fit with the front face of the spar. Unfortunately, after many cuts, I overdid it and cut the rib shorter than it should be. So, do it again....

Used the thickness planer to make some more stringers and strips for the subspar mentioned above. I moved the planer outside to run it. No sense adding more dust to the shop than necessary. It was a crisp -10 C outside with a bit of wind so I didn't want to stay out there longer than necessary. Only made the pieces I absolutely needed.

Fit the leading edge strip for the outboard section of the wing. This required a bit of fitting, cutting, and sanding to get to fit properly and have a straight line for the leading edge to follow.

It seemed like I did more than that today but that's all I have to show for it.


 
Dec 04, 2019     Glue and Dust - (3 hours)       Category: Wings
Lots of progress today. Made some miscellaneous little parts, gussets, doublers, etc. Removed aileron and inboard aileron hinge bracket to allow access to inside of rib 6.5 from yesterday. Added epoxy to this inside joint and "painted" the inboard side of the rib with thin epoxy. Once the hinge bracket goes back in, it's not coming back out so that area needed to be sealed or varnished. Epoxied trailing edge in place and added gussets on the end ribs (these weren't in the original design but I feel they are worth the extra weight and effort). Epoxied the last of the spar caps in place. Varnished the backside of the spar where the landing gear back plates go and painted the front of the spar where the landing gear mounting plates will go. Will eventually need to seal up all of the wood structure so any area that will be covered by plates or brackets needs to be varnished or painted prior to having those pieces mounted. I will paint the rest of the wheel well once the rest of the ribs and structure is in place. Got out the thickness planer. What fun. There's something quite enjoyable about taking rough cut wood and turning it into dimensional lumber, especially if those final dimensions are only 12mm x 6mm. After an hour of using the planer I have some stringer material, some leading edge material, some sub spar material, and a few other pieces.


 
Dec 03, 2019     Measure twice, cut once or in this case, glue once - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Trimmed rib number 6.5. Yes, 6.5. That's because it's about halfway between rib 6 and rib 7. It's the rib that's immediately inboard of the aileron, and it's only from the rear spar to the trailing edge. It is fully sheeted and it has a hole in it to permit the aileron to connect to the torque tube and to fit in the bearing as the inboard hinge. Measured, fit, trimmed, measured, fit, oh, maybe I moved something there, better measure again. Finally, was satisfied to mark where the aileron connection passes through rib 6.5 and cut out and finish the hole for the connection. See pictures.

Again, after some more fitting and adjustment and fitting some additional blocking for spar caps, I epoxied the rib and the spar caps, into place.


 
Dec 02, 2019     Retract gearing torque tubes - (1.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Worked on torque tubes that operate retract gearbox. Cleaned up surface discolouration and burrs. Realigned ��ingers��on end of damaged torque tube. This tube was damaged in the accident. Obviously from the RH wing which was destroyed in the accident. The universal joint fingers on this tube were spread slightly and tube was bent significantly. I won't be able to reuse this tube and to machine of a new tube would be quite an undertaking. These torque tubes are also beautifully made. The assembly is comprised of two tubes, one sliding inside the other. The inner tube has external splines machined partway down the tube. The outer tube has matching internal splines machined at the end of that tube. The tubes slide in and out and when connected on either end, the splines line up such that when the inner tube is turned, the outer tube turns as well. No play whatsoever in the assembly. To get the splines in the outer tube, they would have started with a thicker walled tube and machined it down to a smaller external diameter except where the splines are. A lot of work. So I'm going to have to figure out a new way to actuate the RH retract mechanism. Besides, one of the universal joint balls is missing. It's long gone. Checked the condition of the bolts that are part of the torque tube. Other than a bit of surface rust on the head, they are in good condition. Removed the rust, repainted and then sprayed the bolt shank with surface protectant.


 
Dec 02, 2019     Trailing edge and Spar Caps - (1.5 hours) Category: Wings
With the fuselage gone from the shop, I could rotate the wing fully giving me access to areas previously hidden. Touched up some of the newly exposed glue joints. Cut some blockage for some missing spar cap strips. Cut a section for trailing edge material at the root, inboard of the aileron. Did some more thinking about the wing skins and with a few extra scarf joints, I think I can get it down to 8 sheets of ply vs. the 11 sheets previously estimated. Why not do the skins per the plans? Because the plane wasn't built exactly per the plans. Ray confirmed that the wings were fully sheeted when he received the wreckage. So I guess the aircraft morphed during construction and the plans weren't updated. I'm sure many changes happen during the development of any prototype. Likely more often than many of us would realize. Of course, as the design goes into production, the drawings should be updated. Anyone who's restored an antique of any sort, can attest that it is different from the drawings.
 
Dec 01, 2019     More parts prep - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Removed the metric threaded bosses off the second landing gear backing plate as described initially on Nov 25th. Cleaned up the plate and the additional plates that are part of the landing gear. Painted them with a rust primer. Awaiting special length AN5 bolts from AC Spruce and from Airfasco, then install!


 
Dec 01, 2019     Big Move - (0.5 hour)       Category: Workshop
Finally got around to moving the fuselage. It was previously sitting beside the wing rack. I could rotate the wing partially but the fuselage was always in the way. And it was a nuisance to work around. Today I got my son's help and together we lifted the fuselage up onto some shelving that I had built into the front of our garage. It is now out of the way, but next time we move it, we're going to get at least one more person (likely two) to help. I'm glad my son is strong. This old guy did carry most of the weight above his head at one point but my back is reminding me that there's always a smarter way to do it.


 
Dec 01, 2019     Progress - (2.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Rebuilt the rib that I'd cut up yesterday. Touched up some of the existing glue joints.
Did some shaping to the wingtip bow with the hand plane. There's something extremely satisfying about using a nice hand plane to make wood shavings. Next step will be to sand the tip down.

I also spent some time thinking about the overall layout of the wing and the best way to skin it. The wings will likely be sheeted entirely in 3/32" aircraft grade ply with the grain running parallel to the spar. The approximate outside dimension of each wing is 13' with a 6' root rib and a 4' tip rib. I'll have to see if there are different sizes of plywood available beyond the standard 4' x 8'. Standard 4' x 8' sheets will require quite a bit of trimming and waste if I want to layer the scarf joints onto structure underneath. That would be ideal. The last plane that I'd built was a DR-107. One of the simple, but brilliant things that Dan Rihn considered when he designed the DR-107 was the use of the plywood on its wings. A single sheet of 4' x 8' ply was used to cover each surface of each wing. That is, four sheets of ply for all the wing surface. The wing on the DR-107 has a root chord close to 6' and the wing tapers towards the tip. What was cut off at the tip due to the taper was then scarfed onto the root section to provide the width for the full chord. Only about a 1/4" was removed from the length of the plywood and it all fit on the wing. Of course, the DR-107 is a single seat plane and is quite a bit smaller, but I love those sorts of details in designs. Well done Dan!

For the Dalotel, my initial calculations suggest 11 sheets of 4 x 8 ply for this project, and approx 76 square feet of it becomes wasted. But that is if I sheet the entire wing. The drawings suggest that the area between the ailerons and main spar were left open, or unsheeted. I found some of Ray's notes that he made when he first acquired this project about 10 years ago. It also sounds like the wing was originally skinned with different types of ply in 4' x 4' sections. This resulted in a lot of joints and they used a lot of filler to try to smooth the wing. I think we can do better than that for the rebuild.


 
Nov 30, 2019     More Backwards than Forwards - (5 hours)       Category: Wings
Today was one of those trying days where it feels like I would have been better off if I hadn't put any effort in the project at all.

I worked on the aileron mounting and the wing rib inboard of the aileron. This was a time for some headscratching. Despite all the drawings of the plane, some areas are vague or incomplete. This is one of those areas. The challenge is that the aileron hinges extend beyond each end of the aileron. The hinge at the outboard end of the aileron is a pin that threads into the end of the aileron and is secured with a cotterpin and an oversized, custom made locknut. The pin extends about 2 inches beyond the aileron and it fits into a bearing that's mounted within the tip ribs of the wing. The inboard end of the aileron hinge connects to the aileron torque tube connector. This end is permanently fixed. So the challenge is to fit something that's about 2150 mm long into a gap that's only 2054 mm long. (Since this is a French design, all the dimensions on the plane are listed in millimetres.) Since there's an access plate on the inboard end to allow one to connect the aileron to the aileron torque tube, it seemed like that should be the area that I'd have to modify to allow assembly. For mounting the aileron, my plan was to insert the pin in the outboard end into its bearing, swing the aileron over the middle bearing, and have the inboard end feed through a slot in the corresponding rib and then mount the inboard hinge bracket. I had trimmed the rib in this area and after much fiddling and cutting, it became obvious that the best solution would be to mount the aileron in the opposite order. That is, inboard end first, then swing into place, with the tip end lined up last. This would require having the outboard hinge pin out during assembly and then once the aileron was in place, thread the pin in place and attach the bracket and bearing for the pin. Of course, this means that there's the need for an access panel at the tip. Looking at the drawings again, it now appears that that's how it was done. It wasn't so obvious before.

While doing this, I checked the alignment of everything and discovered that the hinge points on the aileron aren't perfectly in line. The aileron is an aluminum structure and there's no chance for any adjustment so things must have been out of alignment when it was built. With only the inboard and middle hinges in place, the outboard hinge pin wanders by about 1/16 of an inch when the aileron is deflected through its full range of travel. This results in a bit of friction in the assembly when everything is fully snugged up. Not ideal but still less friction than some control surfaces I've seen.

The positive of today is that I have a better understanding of the assembly and have a plan for tomorrow. I'll have to make a new section of rib to replace the one I'd cut today but that's easy enough.


 
Nov 28, 2019     Cover plates and Doubler Plates - (2 hours)       Category: Wings
Spent a bit of time cleaning up the inboard hinge for the RH aileron. The bearing had a bit of surface rust showing. Had the bearing sit overnight in a bath of Evapo-Rust. Washed it off and gave it a quick brushing with a brass bristled brush. Sprayed it with WD-40 to purge any residual moisture. The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement. WD-40 is not a lubricant, it's a solvent and it displaces water. Anyway, cleaned the WD-40 off and then immersed the bearing in a bath of oil. Spun the bearing by hand while immersed in the oil. Did this many times and the bearing is now running smooth. Cleaned off the bearing and then gave it a quick spray with GlideCoat, an aerosol wax designed to protect the surface of woodworking tools. I like it because it gives the metal a surface protection, it's easy, and it's quick drying. Mounted the bearing into it's bracket and safety wired it in place.

Cut out some cover plates for the holes I'd opened up a day ago. Also created some new doubler plates to replace old, damaged ones.

Lastly, I duplicated the stub ribs that close the gap between the rear spar and the front of the aileron. I used the existing ones on the LH wing as templates and cut out the new ones for the RH wing from some ply that I had from a previous build. It was a fun puzzle to see who tight I could pack the pieces into one piece of ply. The bigger challenge was to see how I was going to cut them out. My bandsaw has only about 7" reach. In the end it was pretty easy. They were all rough cut in about 5 minutes. Once they get mounted to the wing and the aileron mounted as well, they will be trimmed for ideal fit.


 
Nov 27, 2019     Travel contact switches and mounts - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Worked on retract mechanism some more. Had a good look at the electrical switches used to indicate retract travel. These switches are strictly used to illuminate the lights on the panel to show if the gear is UP or DOWN. Not surprisingly considering where this plane was designed and built, these switches were made in France. Interestingly considering the age of them, a couple of these switches still work and a couple of them don't. Surprisingly, these exact switches are still available! Online sources like DigiKey have hundreds of them in stock. Easily replaceable.

The first photo shows the switches mounted on the RH gear assembly with the switches mounted. It'll need cleaning in the future. The third picture shows the pieces that were made to mount these switches to the gear retract assembly. The shorter, curved pieces mount into a channel machined into the assembly housing. They are wedge shape such that when the plate is mounted above and the screws are tightened, the shape wedges itself tighter into the groove preventing any inadvertent movement. Notice too that the screws pass through some bushings. Two of the bushings have their hole offset from centre. This eccentricity allows the builder to mount the switch on the curved plate and then rotate the bushing to set the distance as required. To adjust the location of the switch, the plate is rotated around the retract housing with those wedges riding in the machined grove. Once again, beautiful pieces that were much more complex than necessary. A simpler way to mount them would have been to have a simple bracket with some elongated holes to allow adjustability.

I ordered the AN5-80A bolts required for landing gear mounting. I need four of them, two for each wing. These are significant bolts because they are the second longest AN5 bolts available. Imagine 5/16" diameter bolts that are over 8" long. AC Spruce couldn't source them so I found a manufacturer for them that sells them for $15 US a piece. During my search, I'd found a couple of places who offered to source them for me. One place quoted me $2500 per bolt! Needless to say, that place is off any future search list of mine.

I also placed an order for some AN5-60A bolts from AC Spruce for the other mounting holes. I need 22 of those bolts (11 per wing) and AC Spruce can provide them. These bolts are a measly 6" long.


 
Nov 27, 2019     Prep and Inspection - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Fabricating some new nut plates for aileron hinge mounts. Also prepared those areas on the wing by coating with spar varnish. I won't be able to varnish those areas once the hinge mounts are in.

Placed an order for some bolts and other misc items from AC Spruce. Need these new bolts for mounting the hinge mounts.

Removed some cover plates that were glued to the box spar. The covers were over the holes left in the spar by the spoiler mechanism. Figured it would be best to have a look inside and glue new cover plates over them. The only discovery I made was a very small wasp nest inside one of the holes. Maybe it was there from 50 years ago. No wasps or larvae in there so all is well.


 
Nov 26, 2019     Cleaned up more pieces - (0.5 hour)       Category: Wings
Removed bolts holding aileron inner bearing in place. Bolts looked fine but cleaned them up, repainted the heads, and put in new safety wire. Much better as well.

Cleaned the second servo tab rod ends and washers.

I know, I'm avoiding actual building right now but that's ok. Still familiarizing and planning.


 
Nov 26, 2019     Disassembled gear legs for rebuild - (1.5 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Removed gear from wing. Disassembled gear leg assembly to take lower gear leg with damaged fork to welder/machinist friend to inspect. Need to start planning gear leg with new brakes, wheel, and tire to fit within wing.

Upon discovering the corroded landing gear mounting bolts, decided it's prudent to inspect all bolts.
Removed bolts on gear retract shaft. Bolts looked fine but cleaned them up, repainted the heads, and put in new safety wire. Much better.


 
Nov 25, 2019     Parts cleaning and Prep - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
I had a few questions regarding the servo tab on the aileron. I've attached a few photos of it to help explain. The role of the servo tab is to lighten the control forces on the stick. Light control stick forces is something desirable on aerobatic planes. A lot of aerobatic planes have spades on the ailerons to lighten the loads and a servo tab on the elevator. I guess Dalotel wanted to use servo tabs on the ailerons as well. The servo tab works by automatically moving in the opposite direction to the travel of the control surface. Check out the attached pictures and you'll get a better idea.

Also note the addition of the metal plate added to the original tab. This plate extends beyond the trailing edge of the aileron and more than doubles the surface area of the tab. I don't know when in the plane's life that this was added but I'm sure it was helpful. Those original tabs were pretty small to begin with. You may have noticed that there's a 90 degree bend with a 1/4" flange perpendicular to the airflow at the trailing edge of that extension. I'm going to have to speak with an aerodynamicist friend to inquire about that bend and see what he thinks about it. Maybe it was just to stiffen the edge of that plate.

I identified more parts and did some more cleaning. I also worked on the landing gear backing plate. I drilled out the integral threaded bushings to allow a 5/16 bolt to pass through. I then cut off the majority of the bushing depth and finished the plate to allow conventional stop nuts to be used. I took a wire brush and removed the last of the 50 year old paint and then cleaned and repainted the plate in my home made paint booth. The booth is a large plastic tub that sits on its side with a bathroom fan mounted on the tub's bottom and a furnace filter stuffed in front of the fan. It does an tremendous job at keeping the overspray to a minimum.


 
Nov 24, 2019     Hung Landing Gear and cycled through retract - (1 hour)       Category: Landing Gear
Removed bolts that were holding the landing gear mounting plates in place and discovered that the bolts had some corrosion on them. Time to replace them too. They were custom made by Dalotel, and I'm going to replace them with some brand new AN5 bolts. My order for AC Spruce is building. The challenge with replacing them with AN bolts is that the backplate will need to be modified. The backplate currently has some custom made nuts that are press fit into the plate that Dalotel's bolts thread into. They're kind of like nutserts but more robust looking. I'll have to remove those nuts and use normal AN365 nuts. See attached drawing. In fact, the drawing shows nuts in addition to the press fit nuts. This is another case where the drawings and the actual build are not the same. All the bolts with the red circles will need to be replaced. The pin in the yellow circle is also custom machined. The threaded end of that pin was broken off on each of the existing landing gear legs. I suspect they hammered them off to disassemble the landing gear after the accident because the pin itself is fine and the bearing that it fits into is fine. I'll have to order some bar stock from AC Spruce and put that on the lathe.

I assembled everything today and cycled the landing gear through it's motions. It required a few extra hands (and feet) to operate. The video's a little rough but hopefully it helps explain how the retract system works. Assembling everything helped me identify some of the unknown parts and how it should go back together.

I guess the video isn't going to load. Sorry about that. I'll see what I can do to about that in the future.


 
Nov 23, 2019     Miscellaneous parts cleaning - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
Spent some time cleaning up some landing gear parts and also one of the aileron servo pushrods. 40+ years of dust and dirt needed to be removed. The rod end bearings on the servo pushrods are screwed onto their tabs with metric caps screws and locknuts and with brass washers. A little bit of elbow grease and metal polish and those brass washers look real pretty again. I removed the rust from the lock nut by having it sit overnight in a small dish of Evapo-Rust. Available from the aircraft section of Lee Valley. ;-)

The bearings in the rod ends are really neat. The outer ring has two groves in it that allow to ball to be removed and everything cleaned. I didn't take a picture of that detail but I found an image on the internet of a rod end with similar grooves. I've never seen this style before. Very helpful for cleaning and lubing.


 
Nov 22, 2019     Cleaned up some fittings etc - (1 hour)       Category: Wings
As the title says, spent about an hour cleaning up some fittings and bolts and nuts. Cleaned up and deburred end of aileron where torque tube connects. Again, the workmanship and corresponding complexity is impressive. Why a universal joint is required on the connector to the aileron torque tube is beyond me. It's part of the novelty of this plane. I suspect that the aileron end of the universal joint was dropped on the ground at some point. It required a bit of deburring for the ball joint to fit into the fingers. A bit of time with a fine file and some 600 grit sandpaper allows the assembly to come together. It's now beautifully smooth without any play in the rotation.

I took a picture of the spoiler system for interest sake and weighed the pieces of it. At least 15 lbs will be saved by not mounting the spoilers in the plane.


 
Nov 21, 2019     Test fit aileron - (1.5 hours)       Category: Wings
Test fit existing aileron to LH wing. The ailerons were built out of aluminum. The LH one is still covered in its original fabric and the RH one is stripped. They are rather heavy because there isn't much of distance ahead of the hinge point for counter balance. As such, the counter balance is very heavy.
Check out the last picture. If you look carefully you can see the rib stitching and fabric covering the rib stitching. Rather than running a single strip of pinked tape down the length of the rib, covering all the stitching on that rib, they made individual "doilys" with pinked edges over each set of stitches. Again, not conventional. But that's part of the charm of this aircraft.

The other thing worth noting is that each of the three hinge points on the aileron are completely different from one another. Considering Dalotel was intending to mass produce this plane, I would have expected as much commonality amongst parts as possible, but no.

The outer hinge point is a small diameter shaft that is screwed into the end of the aileron rib. See attached picture. The larger diameter end of the shaft is threaded into the tip of the aileron until the threaded end is completely buried into the aileron. Note the excessive length of shaft that becomes threaded into the aileron. I'm sure that the threaded portion of the shaft could be half that length without any issues whatsoever. The small diameter shaft runs through a bearing mounted on a precision machined aluminum fitting mounted in the wing.

The mid hinge point is bolted to the backside of the spar and in addition the bolts and the nut plates, it is made up of 3 precision machined aluminum fittings and 2 half bushings that fit into the aluminum fitting. See attached picture.

Finally, the root hinge point is a large diameter ball bearing assembly that is screwed onto a machined aluminum fitting. You can see it in the picture of the underside of the wing (underside of aileron is yellow). The torque tube connection shaft comes out of the aileron and connects to a complex universal joint inboard of the hinge assembly. Details on that connection in future entries.

Again, it's worth noting the quality of the machining and complexity of some of the work and yet, at the same time, the much simpler, much less glamorous nut plate that secures the aileron tip bracket. See attached picture. Some of the nut plates are beautiful. Others, like this one, are purely functional. I'm going to replace this nut plate with some AN nutplates riveted to an aluminum plate that is screwed to the wood. Most of the smaller bolts in the plane are metric cap crews that are safety wired in bundles. In a case like this, I'm going to replace them with AN bolts and have confidence in their strength.


 
Nov 21, 2019     Reinstalled landing gear gearbox on LH wing - (0.5 hour) Category: Landing Gear
After cleaning up and prepping some of the mounting area I installed the gearbox assembly. Used original bolts to hold it in place for now. Chased threads on bolts and nuts to allow easier threading. M8 threads. I will replace these bolts with AN5-60A and AN5-80A bolts when sourced. AN5-60A bolts are available from AC Spruce for about $14 Cdn. per bolt. Not cheap for a bolt but let's see. Awaiting quote from AC Spruce for the AN5-80A bolts. I got quotes elsewhere for those bolts. One company quoted me a pricy $125 per bolt. I thought that was crazy until I received a quote from a second company. $2500 US per bolt! I'm sorry but that's absolutely ridiculous. If you don't want that business, just decline to bid.
 
Nov 21, 2019     Finish up of inspection panels and doublers - (.5 hour) Category: Empennage
 
Nov 20, 2019     Messing with retract system - (2 hours)       Category: Landing Gear
Started prepping the retract gearbox for LH wing. I had done a quick cleaning on the retract gearbox when I unloaded and did inventory. I really cleaned it well today using a brass bristled brush and some brake cleaner and rags. The gearbox is truly a work of art. It's a shame that it will be hidden away in the wing once done. It's amazing, even after 50 years it still runs as smooth as butter.

The retracts are operated by a single motor in the fuselage. The motor runs through a gearbox with outputs running outwards towards each wing. Each of these outputs are connected via a torque tube to the smaller splined input shaft of this gearbox. This gearbox is mounted behind the spar and a shaft runs forward, through the spar to a series of levers that raise and lower the gear. See Nov 4 entry for a brief description of the operation of this unique retract system.

This gearbox is geared 37:1. That is, the input shaft must complete 37 turns for 1 single turn of the output shaft. Lots of mechanical advantage there. It will be interesting to figure out the ratio of the gearbox that's in the fuselage that takes the motor output.

This gearbox is mounted to the backside of the spar with 4 bolts that run through to the pad/bushing on the front side. The bolts for this plane were custom made by Dalotel. Just like everything else on this plane. I've found drawings of these bolts in the 300 pages of drawings. They are effectively AN5 bolts. I'm going to replace them with new bolts as these ones are showing some surface corrosion. The "shorter" ones can be ordered as AN5-60A from AC Spruce. The longer ones would be AN5-80A, the longest AN5 bolts made. It looks like those critters are available but they may have to be sourced elsewhere.


 
Nov 20, 2019     Access Panels and Doublers - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage
Completed access panels and finished gluing in doublers. Installed nut plates and counter sunk access panels for tinnerman washers.


 
Nov 19, 2019     More of the same - (1 hour) Category: Empennage
As the title says, more of the same. Worked on access panels. Created new, smaller diameter doublers for the smaller holes and glued the doublers into place. Could've used some more cleco clamps to do it but made do with what I had. No pics today.
 
Nov 18, 2019     Inspection Panels again - (3.5 hours)       Category: Empennage
Having slept on it, I decided that the inspection panels for the fin and rudder don't really need to be opened up again after the build inspection. So I removed some of the nut plates and once the structure is inspected by the MD-RA inspector, I'll be able to close them up, smooth the panel over and cover the entire section with fabric. I may keep the inspection plates for the stabilizer spar removable. After all, they will be on the underside of the stab and won't be as visible. Additionally, the loads on the stabilizer spar could be greater than the loads on the fin. Being able to inspect there may be useful. But then again, there's no inspection panel on that area on RV's and such. Sure, one can look into the RV stab through the root rib of the stab but you're looking through a hole that's only about an inch and a half in diameter and there's a fin in the way.

I used one of the cover plates for the lower section of the fin and realized that for an inspection plate, it's rather large. It would be suitable if one needed to fit their hands in there but it doesn't need to be that large for the inspector to view the structure. I made a second, smaller inspection hole for the section of the fin above the rib. It didn't feel right cutting into the nice smooth skin but it's what has to be done.

When I opened up the fin, I discovered that Ray, the previous owner, had signed it when he had done his work on the rebuild. Nice little memento there.

I cut 5 inspection holes on the underside of the stab and prepped them. I've also marked out an additional 4 locations if required by the inspector. Check out the fancy machined nut plate assembly. Beautiful machine work. There are some other nut plate assemblies elsewhere in the plane and they are simply nuts tack welded onto a steel plate. I think the airplane went through different levels of attention during the build. I'm guessing that early in the build there was a lot of this fancy machining. Later in the build, I think they were anxious to get it done and components weren't made as complex and expensive. They were still perfectly acceptable for its purpose, but not nearly as much time and effort to make each piece.


 
Nov 17, 2019     Inspection Panels Doublers - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage
Continued with inspection panels for empennage. Wanted to use nut plates and screws from the spoiler access panels. Removed nut plates to discover that the rivets for the original nut plates are something slightly smaller than our today's standard 3/32 AN rivets. 3/32 rivets wouldn't fit in the holes on those nut plates. Looked at the screws holding the cover plates on and found that the closest screw to them is a 5-40 screw. Yes, a #5. An M3 is close but the 5-40 is even closer. So, some soul searching here and the reality is that I'm going to have to make some changes to the aircraft to make it reasonable to rebuild and to maintain. So, after some work cleaning up those original nut plates, I'm using brand new nut plates and 6-32 screws to hold the covers on.


 
Nov 14, 2019     Building inspection panels and doublers - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage
Since the empennage was built/rebuilt and closed off by the previous owner, Ray, I need to create some inspection ports. This will allow inspection for my comfort and for the satisfaction of the MD-RA inspector. In reality, I'm not worried as Ray's workmanship is really nice, but as mentioned, the ability to inspect is necessary.

Spoilers were originally installed on this plane. Any articles about the plane's flight characteristics mentioned that the spoilers were made inoperable. It's no surprise as the spoilers were mounted in front of the ailerons and likely impacted the roll control of the airplane. The spoilers were scissor type that opened above and below the wing like you'd see in a high performance sailplane. They are a real thing of beauty in the workmanship to make them. I suspect that when they opened them up though, they really scared themselves. I used to fly RC sailplanes and I was amazed at what an impact the small spoilers had on the glide ratio of the sailplane. The spoilers on the Dalotel covered a much larger portion of the wingspan and would have likely made the plane drop like an anvil, an anvil without any roll control. Pretty scary. By eliminating the spoilers and all the mechanism to run them, I'm shaving something like 20 lbs off the weight of the plane. Gotta love that.

There were a couple of inspection panels on the underside of each wing to allow inspection of the spoiler mechanism. Since I'm not going to install the spoilers in the rebuild, I thought it would be neat to reuse these inspection panels on the empennage. Unfortunately the original inspection plates are thicker than the skin on the empennage so I decided to make some new panels out of leftover mahogany ply from my last project. Inspection panels and the associated doublers are pretty easy first steps in the construction process. Of course, the doublers have to made up in two halves to fit through the inspection hole.


 
Nov 13, 2019     Submitted Paperwork to MD-RA for Major Portion Evaluation Category: Inspection
Paperwork for 51% Inspection
 
Nov 13, 2019     Submitted Letter of Intent to MD-RA Category: Inspection
This is a first step for building an amateur built or non-certified aircraft in Canada.
 
Nov 04, 2019     Wheels and Brake Research - (4 hours)       Category: Research
For many days I've been trying to figure out what I'm going to do about the wheels for this plane. I have to start thinking about it now because the original wheels were custom built for this plane and there's only one left. It's a beautifully machined magnesium wheel with integral drum for brakes. The wheel is about 9" diameter. The original tire was a 400 x 100 made by Dunlop Aero. Since there's nothing like that available now and because I need some new wheels to go with it, I had to do some serious research. Because the gear retracts, there are serious considerations to the diameter AND the thickness of the tire and wheel. The original tires were skinny things. And because of the the way the gear retracts, there is no provision to change the amount of travel of the retraction without serious changes to the levers and mechanism that operates the retraction. The landing gear retracts via a motor that only spins one way. You retract the gear by powering the motor and allowing the mechanism to raise the landing gear. When it's fully retracted you stop the operation of the motor and the mechanism stops in what I'll call top dead centre. When you want to lower the gear, you power the motor again and the mechanism continues in its original direction until you get to bottom dead centre. I'll post a video of it in operation when I get a chance. So the long and short of it is that I need some uniquely sized tires and wheels.

I eventually found some aircraft tires that are slightly smaller in diameter and marginally wider. And they don't cost an arm and a leg. Adding to that, I found that Matco (www.matcomfg.com) makes an huge number of different styles and sizes of wheels and brakes and I think I can make a set fit.

When the aircraft had its accident, the lower sections of the gear were damaged. One of the forks was twisted and the second one was ripped right off. So I needed to make some new forks anyway. I will make them to fit the Matco brakes and wheels. This will be an upgrade from how the plane was originally set up.


 
Nov 01, 2019     Review and organization of Plans - (3 hours)       Category: Research
There are over 300 pages of drawings and calculations for this plane. They are all hand drawn and are in varying levels of completeness and detail. Of course, none of them are labelled and many are unidentifiable. In fact, some of the plans are definitely NOT for an airplane. Oh yeah, and to add to the mystery, any text is written in French and often in a cursive script. And let's not forget that all dimensions are in metric. I spent many hours reviewing them, identifying them when possible and sorting them into different folders. I created about 20 different folders and many more subfolders to sort them all. There's one folder called Unknown. I'm hoping that as I dig into the plane more, I'll be able to recognize more of it and identify the remaining drawings.

A lot of the drawings are for the machinists who built these beautiful parts. Few drawings are how the plane went together. Below are some samples.

All of these plans were provided by Christophe who is interested in the Dalotel. In Christophe's words,

"Being a bit familiar with the DM165 history, I was interested in following the restauration of this unique aerobatic aircraft.
When he (Ray) mentioned to me that he didn't have much materials to support his work, I inquired a friends of mine who the head of a aviation museum in France, mostly dedicated to french sport planes and gliders, and which preserve a lot of incredible archives. Amazingly, the museum just received all the documentation about the DM165 owned by Dalotel's family, including the drawings. This is how I got these and passed them on to Ray."



 
Oct 27, 2019     Very cool components - (3 hours)       Category: Research
As I look closer at the pile of goodies that I'd acquired I have to admire and also shake my head at some of the pieces that were built for this plane. It was originally intended to be a club type trainer that they were going to mass produce. That idea fell through for many reasons. As I look at the machined components of this plane, I wonder who was the instigator of all this machining. Was it Dalotel, the designer of the aircraft? Or was it the company he had worked with to build the plane? It is obvious that someone highly skilled at machining was involved in the build of the plane. To think that this machining was done over 50 years ago, long before CNC machining, boggles the mind. This amount of machining certainly wouldn't have permitted mass production of the aircraft. Or at the very least, the design would have to be changed quite a bit to simplify the manufacture and reduce costs. It would be interesting to learn what this plane actually cost to build back in the late 60's and compare it with other costs as reference.

Attached are some photos of the workmanship. The ailerons are actuated by means of a torque tube. The splined connector is part of a universal joint to connect the aileron to the torque tube. Why a universal joint? I have no idea. There's no need for that type of movement. There are 80 splines machined into the outside of the coupler. This would permit quite a bit of adjustability during rigging of the airplane. Unfortunately the matching piece with the inside splines is missing, and only one of these couplers survived the 40 years since the accident.

The ball slides into the fingers on the end of the aileron. When the coupler is cocked 90 degrees to the hinge line it allows the coupler to slide onto the ball. When straightened out such that the coupler is aligned with the hinge line, it's then in the orientation for normal use. In that orientation there is absolutely no play in the rotational movement of the assembly. The fingers rotate smoothly over the ball and everything is a work or art.

Another piece of beautiful machine work is this extra fuselage subframe. This is one of the pair of subframe plates that the spars bolt into. More info on that to come.


 
Oct 26, 2019     Trailer Unload and Sorting - (5 hours)       Category: Workshop
Unloaded all the goodies and started sorting. Went to the aviation department at Home Depot and bought a couple of shelving units and a bunch of cheap transparent plastic tubs of various sizes. Some of the pieces were immediately identifiable. Others not so.

Since my shop is a single bay in a garage, I have to be creative with my space. I'd built my DR-107 in this space and I'd built my RV-7 in less space than this, so I know it can be done. You just have to be creative. I think the fuselage is going to be hanging from my shop ceiling soon and out of the way until it's time to work on it.


 
Oct 24, 2019     Project Home       Category: Research
Got the project home. It was a lot of work loading all the goodies that came with this project. A big thanks to my buddy Soren for the use of his enclosed trailer that I'd borrowed to haul everything home. I was grateful for all the space and protection that his trailer provided to haul the project the 10 hour drive home. Frustratingly it seemed that I had a headwind going to pick up the project and I certainly had a nasty headwind getting home. How does the weather do that

Despite headwinds, blizzards, and a few suicidal deer, I was able to get the SUV, the trailer, and the project home without any mishap. I should point out that Soren's trailer has been used dozens of times by various people to haul aircraft and aircraft remains to and fro. The trailer has been invaluable to many projects and Soren has always been generous with the load of his trailer. Everyone needs a friend like Soren.

The most painful part of the trip was having to stop at the border to pay taxes and duties on these items. Processing the paperwork was pretty quick and easy. It's just frustrating having to pay taxes on everything.


 
Oct 23, 2019     Acquired project       Category: Research
I discovered this project on Barnstormers a couple of months ago. "For sale, the one and only, the prototype Dalotel DM-165." A tandem, low wing, retractable gear, aerobatic plane designed and built in France in the late 1960s. Only one was ever built.

What an opportunity or what was I thinking?

The more I looked into this plane, the more interesting I found it.

It all started with an innocent e-mail to Ray Ordorica, the fine gentleman who was selling this project. Ray had acquired it as a wreckage about 10 years ago and had it shipped from the UK to the US. It had an engine out, off field landing about 40 years ago and then sat in a hanger in the UK for close to 30 years. Since Ray got it he had done a great job rebuilding the empennage and had started repairing the left wing. Ray had also built all new ribs for the right wing. The right wing was seriously damaged in the accident 40 years ago so it needed to be built. As things happen for many of us, life got in the way for Ray (he's an author and adventurer) and his project stalled out a few years ago. Ray came to the conclusion that he wasn't going to get around to finishing it so he wanted to see it in the hands of someone else who might be able to finish it and get it flying. That someone else became me. I had some previous experience that would be useful for this project.

Ray's project was written up in Nov 2010 Sport Aviation, What our members are building/restoring. I've attached the article for your reading pleasure.


 


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