Apr 22, 2024     Canopy guide blocks installed - (1.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

Another small order from Van's came in so I attached those rears screws and nuts on the side of the canopy and cut off some threads. The one on the left may need more trimming. Then measured out the first hole for the canopy guide blocks and tapped it, then marked the second hole, drilled, and tapped that. Of course, I came up one AN5098R16 short.

  Apr 15, 2024     Removed struts - (.5 hour)       Category: Canopy

Phil Martineau stopped by to help me take the canopy off (and deliver some -06 metal locking nuts) but by then I realized it was possible to remove that screw that holds the front of the strut without taking the canopy all the way off. Here's the process.

1) Remove the connecting hardware for the strut attachment to the fuselage (aka, the connection at the rear of the strut). This is done with the canopy open.
2) Lower the canopy, placing pillows or blankets or something (I use old, cut -up, camper mattress foam) underneath both side of the canopy frame at the midpoint.
3) Detach the two bolts (one on each side) holding the canopy/frame to the fuselage.
4) GENTLY pull the canopy/frame forward as it ride on the foam (or blankets or pillows, until you can lift one side high enough to get a screwdriver on that screw, then remove the locking nut and assorted hardware and remove the strut. Repeat for the other side.
5) GENTLY work the canopy/frame back until the frame-to-fuselage hole (aka, the most forward hole), lines up and reinstall the bolt and hardware.

Simple, no?

The one thing I noticed putting those two bolts back in, however, is the bushing callout. Now, I don't know if the canopy frame came without a bushing in the holes or whether that's where I pressed those bushings in. Or is the drawing referring to a bushing used as a spacer. It was five years ago. I vaguely recall using a socket set to press a bushing in place but I don't know if it was on this part or not. I ordered a couple of bushings anyway and I'll wait until I get this mystery solved before continuing.

It would help to take a look at an RV-12.

  Apr 15, 2024     Completed SB-00088 - (3 hours)       Category: Service B's

I prepped up the replacement bracket, drilled out nutplates on the oil cooler, added the bracket, installed new nutplates and bolted the bracket on. Then cut the rubber grommets and put them in the outside holes, making the cut portion to the right and filling with RTV (although suspect the grommets turn when tightening), added the bushing and bolted the radiator to the new bracket on the oil cooler, bolted the top back on and reattached the hoses. All bolts and nuts torqued. To me, it seems like the oil cooler might wobble a little so we'll wait for THAT service bulletin.

  Apr 15, 2024     Started on SB0000-88 - (1.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

Apparently there's been a problem with the cowling rubbing the radiator on startup with RV-12's, which cause the radiators to leak and need replacement. A fix increases the gap between the radiator and cowling. But it requires you to take the radiator off, cut off a couple of flanges and/or ears, and rivet on a new bracket. So I was able to get the radiator off. But using a cutoff wheel to cut stuff off filled me with some concern. Any slip cuts into the fins. So I put some .063 over the coolng fins and duct taped it down. I was able to cut the flange off, and then I cut the "ears" ALMOST off and then just wiggled them until they snapped off. Looking at the SB instructions suggested that's what Van's did, too, as you can see a little "point" there. You have to do that because otherwise you're almost certainly going to cut into the fins.

  Apr 13, 2024     Riveted front of canopy - (1.3 hours)       Category: Canopy

I riveted the front line of rivets. One is sitting rather proud. I don't know if I just didn't push it in far enough or maybe I forgot to countersink that one. I don't know. Another hole had a small chip on the edge of the countersink. . That'll crack eventually so I'll just have to keep an eye out for it so I can drill a stop hole at that time.

I believe these are all going to be buried in fiberglass.

I also assembled the lock handle.

  Apr 12, 2024     Ran out of screws - (2.5 hours)       Category: Canopy

One of the problems about getting near the end of the project, is you start running out of parts. A screw falls here, a nut falls there over the course of 7 or 8 years and the next thing you know you're submitting a $3 order to Van's with the $10 shipping charge.

I'm 3 screws short on the sides of the canopy along with two nuts. That's my order.

  Apr 11, 2024     Resumed work on canopy - (4 hours)       Category: Canopy

The temperature is warming up enough where I think I can start working on the canopy again. I was able to get the hangar up close to 80 with the kerosene heaters and I started polishing that scratch on one side that's been bugging me. I used NOVUS 3 (no idea where 1 and 2 went) and got it better.

I wasn't happy last fall with the screwing on of the rear canopy to the frame so I took those screws out and drilled out the holes in the frame to a #27. I added a few new scratches taking the canopy off so I'll have to polish those out now. But the screws (except for the ones right on the curves) sit in there a little better now.

I also fit and match drilled the two canopy lift attaches and somehow all of that took four hours.
The next step will be to rivet on the skirts and front of the canopy and start on the foam blocks and then the fiberglass skirts in the front.
Once I get that done I can get inside to finish up control attachments etc.

  Apr 04, 2024     Polished the stabilator - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I got bumped from working opening day at Target Field so I figured might as well polish the stabilator before resuming fitting of the empennage fairing, and listen to the game (Guardians won. Yes!)?

For this I started with NuVite F7 Grade polish with a compound polisher and bonnet (of course). Then I used F7 with a cyclo tool with a wool (Fleece) towel to remove swirl marks. Then mineral spirits to clean off all polish. At this point I had the choice of using Grade C with the compound and then fleece but given that the stabilator has 0 air time, I went directly to the Grade S (very fine) polish with the cyclo machine and a the fleece blanket. After a final buffing with a clean piece of fleece, I then sprinkle on the corn starch and rub it down with a microfiber towel to remove any leftover polish. Then I use an air hose to remove any remaining corn starch (mostly in the holes of the pulled rivets). I don't use mineral spirits on the last step to clean because I want the chemical coating of the polish to remain on the stabilator.

Then I flipped it over and did the top side.

The only bummer today was I hit the wing stand and the wing shifted foward and hit the back of my lawn bench, putting a really big dent in the wing. Fortunately, it's the underside of the wing.

  Apr 02, 2024     Trimmed stabilator skin - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

There was a time, frankly, when I would've gotten to a point I got to today where I'd sacrifice quality for speed. It came after I finished trimming the top of the stabilator skin where it was contacting the empennage fairing. I had marked the bottom and the easy thing, it seemed at the time, would be to just work from underneath to trim away the bottom part. But would working upside down REALLY result in a quality trim? No, of course it wouldn't. So I took the stabilator off.

You did what, now? Sure, it's a pain in the neck to get it back on by myself and all but of course it would be easier to work with it sitting on the bench. And it was. I used a Dremel and attachment that, I saw when I finished, has basically been destroyed by cutting aluminum. But it did the job accurately.

Taking the stabilator off also gives me the opportunity to take the VS and rudder back off (you're going to do WHAT, now?) and polish them up with the G9 I got from NuVite. I want to get the milling finish off the VS and there's a little bit of skin to file away on the bottom that is just about contacting the tail cone. Then I can put them back on for the last time.

Of course, when the polished-up stabilator goes back on, I still will have to fit the fairing to make sure there's no interference and the attach holes need to be drilled and nutplates installed.

  Apr 01, 2024     Stabilator - Fairing interference - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Surprisingly, I was able to get the stabilator back on the tailcone without scratching anything. Then I reinstalled the bottom and top fairng. There's a lot of interference. I readjusted the fairing slightly left but it still rubs in the aft part of the fairing and very little of it has the required 1/8" clearance. I filed the very aft part for now because even if Van's support responds to pull the fairing forward (abandoning the two holes I driled) getting an 1/8" clearance back there is going to be diffiicult.

But it seems to me just filing the skin carefully would accomplish what I need to accomplish.

We'll see what Tony at Van's says.

  Mar 31, 2024     Drilling emp fairing to tailcone - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

I don't really care for the Van's instructions on drilling through the opaque fairing. They have you drill a #40 hole, tape a powerful magnet in the hole, put the fairing back on, put another powerful magnet over a washer and then let the magnet seek the other one. OK, I guess. It worked OK on the spinner, but why? There's a reference line on the tape, you know the hole has to be about 1/4" aft of that line, so you can just transfer that line onto the fairing and drill.

I didn't do that because somewhere in my youth I was taught to follow directions. In this case, I wish I hadn't because the hole in the fairing was off. Not by much but somewhere in my youth I became kind of OCD. In the end, it probably won't matter because the hole is going to get enlarged to a #27 and, besides, there's going to be a nutplate here doing all the work.

The next hole they tell you to drill is the inboard hole on the bottom fairing - both of these on the left side. So this time I did what I just said I should have done. It still didn't come out exactly where I wanted -- a little too forward but a nutplate will fit in there.

Now, I have to get some help to wrestle the stabilator back on to check for clearances.

  Mar 29, 2024     Finished fairing assembly and checked rudder clearance       Category: Empennage

A fairly productive work session saw me fine tune the gap so that it's about .032 all the way around, countersink the tab attach holes on the bottom half and rivet on the tabs, countersink the screw in the top. I'm short of stainless steel #6 screws so I'll have to order more. I mounted the rudder (temporarily) and checked the clearance with the fairing: 3/16". Perfect. Minimum clearance is 1/8". Next step is to drill the fairing attach holes to the tailcone but I've got to figure out how to do that as they're #27 holes and I'm not sure how to cleco a #27 hole. I'll review the instructions. Then I have to get some help to - again: temporarily - mount the stabilator to check the clearance. Then, I guess I'll polish everything up and remount everything, and then take care of that radiator clearance service bulletin.

  Mar 28, 2024     Prepped emp fairing tabs - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Modified #27 drill bit to enlarge holes in upper fairing. Removed and added nutplate after priming each tab and then checked back to the lower fairing and screwed the top fairing on. Next step is to assure a proper gap between the parts before riveted tabs to the lower fairing.

  Mar 27, 2024     Drilled empennage fairings - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

Having wised up about the proper way to place the empennage fairings on the tailcone, I remade one of the marker tapes and refit the fairings and they were darned close. I sanded a few areas. It's pretty difficult to get the things to stay in place even with a couple of clamps but I did the best I could and I was satisifed with the fit after a little sanding. Then I placed the attachment clips to the bottom fairing, aligned them, bent some of them and drilled them to the bottom fairing, then fit the top back on, checked the fit, clamped a couple of the tabs and then drilled the middle hole to #40 in each tab. Next time out I'll move the tabs to the inside and prep them accordingly.

  Mar 21, 2024     Finished cutting emp fairings - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Cut out the bottom faring and sanded everything down to the scribe line. I then fit it onto the tailcone and it's in the ballpark. This is the "old style" fairing so there's no way for front and bottom to properly "nest". I'll have to do some sanding of some edges to get things to work right.

Update: I noticed something when reading Dave Gamble's excellent blog ( http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com/search/label/Page%2012-08 ) : the fairing goes on the outside of the tailcone, not tucked. Now the reason for the edge marking on the tape makes sense. I never thought that there'd be an overlap IN to the airstream but there you; I rechecked the plans and, sure enough, that's a dotted line signifying the aft edge of the tailcone skin, which means the part is hidden.

  Mar 16, 2024     Cut out the top emp fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I used a Dremel to cut out close to the scribe line and then sanded it with a block to get it right to the line. The instructions are a little cruddy for showing the EXACTLY location for a 3/4" step drill hole but I'll deal with that later. I can always put fiberglass back. Anyway, it came out perfect.

I'll start on the bottom next time I'm out there.

  Mar 15, 2024     More marking up the emp fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

I heard from the legendary Tony Kirk at Van's and he suggested using a long file to remove some of the trailing edge on the right side of vertical stabilizer where t is coming into contact with the rudder at full deflection. So I marked off about .048, made a straight line and filed back to it. No more contacting the rudder. Tony is the best.

I remade the tape strips to mark the attach holes for the empennage fairng and then dug out the two fairings. One step calls for you to drill a 3/4 hole with a step drill, 1 1/2" from a reference line. But then I remembered - vaguely - some dispute about hole callout on this part. I check plans and, sure enough, the latest plans have it 1 1/8" from the line.

I checked back with Tony at support to be sure threre's no issue with having pre12-iiS tailfeathers with a 12iS fuselage where this part is concerned.

BTW there's a service bulletin out regarding the radiator and cowling. The fix kit shipped today.

  Mar 13, 2024     Finished VS and rudder fairings - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

I mounted the vertical stabilizer again and then added the rudder wth the fairing clecoed on and then added the fairing for the VS. You're supposed to have the two clear by 1/8" but no more than 1/4" but with the way the two interact, it's hard to get 1/8" in one spot without 1/4" somewhere else. In the end I just pretty much sanded down to the trim lines and I'm calling it good.

I did notice however that the rudder is contacting the vertical stabilizer skin on the right side. Not on the left side. I sent a letter to Van's support asking if they want me to file down the vertical stabilizer skiin a little bit.

Then it's on to the tailcone fairing. You have to make four 7" strip of masking tape with marks for where the fairing attach holes are going to go. It matched the instruction drawings closely in relation to existing rivets, but not exactly. I don't think it's a problem. I've got the measurements exact.

  Mar 07, 2024     Polished VS and rudder - (4 hours)       Category: Empennage

It was nice to get back to polishing aircraft parts again and I sort of remember how to do it, although my polishing supplies are pretty low. I figured before mounting the various fairings and putting things on the tail cone, it would be a good idea to wash and polish things first. So I washed the VS and rudder last week and took it out to the the hangar today for polishing. I probably should've gone all the way down to a Grade F7 polish on the VS as there some spot on it but I just did a Grade C and then Grade S . I did go to Grade F7 on the rudder. Anyway, I'll do them all again while mounted before the airworthiness inspection, whenever that is. Maybe this year. Maybe not.

After polishing I went back to where I left off on the instructions and fitted, sanded, mounted and drilled the fairing on the vertical stabilizer. I marked a trim line as instructed but I was out of gas and called it a day before doing any trimming.

There's some before and after shots here

  Feb 26, 2024     Started on VS and rudder fairings - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

With temperatures in the 60s -- and snow due -- it seemed like a good time to dig out fairings and get them fitted. I must've done some prep work on the VS fairing years ago because they fit fine around the recess. I cut the aft end 1/8" off the scribe line as indicated in the instructions. The rudder fairing was a little rougher and the recess needed "squaring up", the edges needed cutting and sanding. But eventually I got the rudder fairing fitting quite nicely. Oh, I also sanded down the seam to make it flush with the rest of the fairing.

I think fitted and drilled the rudder fairing, removed it, and deburred and cleaned. I've taken both home to wash in preparation for polishing both before fairings are attached.

I also took so California Custom oxidizer and polish to that drip on the taiilcone and got most of the corrosion out. That, too, will be polished when it warms up to stay.

  Feb 22, 2024     Taking everything apart again - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

Now that I got the entire tail assembly put on, I took it off today. I have to work on all the fairings. I did notice a white streak down the side of the tailcone. I don't what it was. Perhaps from a roof leak? Anyway it looks like it might be corrosive so I'll use some of the California green anti corrosion stuff on it, then buff it out with NuVite when it warms up. I will also be washing and polishing all of the tail assembly before reinstalling.

  Feb 05, 2024     More stabilator connections       Category: Empennage

I safety wired the trim tab hinge pins and had to shoot some silicone on the hinges because they were creaking after spending the last five years just sitting around. Then added the pushrod assembly. I added a washer to the connection at the control horns on the trim tab because the called-out AN3-10 bolt seems long and I think the nut bottomed out. BTW, most of the elastic locking nuts in the original plans have been replaced with metal locking nuts in revisions so I'm doing that.

I connected the D-subs for the flap motor. I want to wrap those wires up tighter with something because they're going to run on the stabilator spar as it moves up and down.

Anyway, I've verified that everything fits and is in working order and now I'm going to take it all apart to work on the fairings. I think. The instructions are confusing here. They tell you to install the aft assembly and then go to Section 12. Section 12 tells you to remove everything. So, who knows how this is supposed to work.

But winter is supposed to return here later this week so not sure when I'll do all that.,

  Feb 03, 2024     Stabilator attached!!! - (1 hour)       Category: Empennage

"You've got your friends and you've got your aviation friends," as former RVator Bernie Ockuly is fond of saying. No fewer than 5 RVators from around the Twin Cities responded to my "mayday" call this week as efforts to get the hinge bolt to engage with the nutplate on the right bearing of the fuselage on the RV-12iS. Yesterday I pulled it back, took off the counterbalance arm and tried to recreate the problem by trying to finger-tighten the bolt and I could feel it continually disengage from the threads. So I used a nutdriver with a socket to apply enough pressure to get the bolt to engage and then repeated it several times to be sure everything had been cleaned out and then tried to finger tighten again and it engaged fine.

Was that the problem? Or was that just fixing a problem that had been introduced when trying to fix the problem. There was no way to know without help. I'm convinced it's simply not possible to do this yourself, even though I'm aware of the stories hereabouts that it is. Let's just say, "not for me."

So the guys came over and supported the stabilator and it took a fair amount of effort to get things lined up. I used a screwdriver to slightly open the hinge brackets to allow them to slip over the bearing, then repeated on the other side as they supported things. Lining up still took a little bit of adjusting -- raising the aft end slightly, bringing the front end down etc, until I could pin things with the "drift pins" I'd made for attaching the wings on the RV-7A project almost 20 years ago; glad I saved them.

Once that was done I was able to finger tighten and then tighten the bolts somewhat because THEY ENGAGED THE THREADS!!!!

I didn't torque them down yet because I have a question to research: Is the torque value of an AN4 bolt into a nutplate the same as the torque value of an elastic locknut going onto an AN4 bolt? My suspicion is it's not although I can't yet confirm this.

Anyway, here's a shoutout to my aviation friends (Left to right)

Phil Martineau - Phil flies an RV12 out of St. Paul Downtown Airport and is currently building a Glastar. He's on the EAA Board of Directors and is the retired chairman of Pittsburgh Corning. He's a lot smarter than me. His EAA Builder's Log is good reading. He didn't arrive in time to see the Miracle in Bob's Hangar but he was giving me moral support and technical advice all week. He put his stabilator on by himself.
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&proj=7nwawiuuC

John Schmidt - Longtime member of my EAA Chapter in Lake Elmo although I think now he's moved down to AirLake Airport and is in Chapter 25. You know how there's always those 3 or 4 people in a chapter you can count on for Young Eagles days? That's John. He's a got a gorgeous Cub and an RV-6 project. John is also smarter than me.

Bill Swanson - I've only met Bill once, I think, back when I owned the 7A and we flew into Olivia with the Twin Cities RV Group for lunch. I believe he fiies out of Anoka-Blaine Airport (on the other side of the Twin Cities) and I think he's working on an RV-6 project. He appears to be smarter than me.

Pete Howell - Probably the smartest RVator I know and it goes without saying he's smarter than me. Pete, even if it means driving over from Anoka-Blaine has never failed to show up on those rare occasions when I put out a "mayday". Pete is an RV9A-flying legend and just about the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I also don't believe there's ever been a problem he hasn't been able to solve.

Jeff Schwalen - flies an RV-10 out of South St. Paul's Fleming Field (KSGS). His hangar is on the other side of the field from me and we hadn't met. So I got a new friend out of my three days of frustration with the horizontal stabilator. I can just tell by looking at him he's smarter than me.

Wonderful gentlemen one and all! I can't thank them enough.

  Jan 31, 2024     How to waste another afternoon - (2 hours)       Category: Empennage

Second verse. Same as the first. Thinking of just giving up and selling the project.

  Jan 30, 2024     How to waste an afternoon - (3 hours)       Category: Empennage

One of the more frustrating days. I started to attach the stabilator to the fuselage. Two bolts. Simple, right? I've done it before and it wasn't bad. But, then again, I haven't done it since the SL-00068 "fix" for a problem that wasn't really a problem: the washers between the hinge brackets. They've been replaced by riveted metal spacers. I attached the counterbalance arm and inserted it into the fuselage, turned it 90 degrees and bolted it to the stabilator. All good so far. But I could not get the holes to line up with the bearings on the fuselage tail. Eventually I gave it a good shove and it lined up enough to stick a punch in place as a drift pin while I tightened one bolt. But the bolt on the other side wouldn't engage the nutplate. After several hours, I pulled everything off and disassembled everything then loaded up bolts with Boelube lubricant and ran them into the nutplates to get them to engage. Repeated a few times.

I'll take another run at it at some other time.

Meanwhile a shipment of fiberglass and peel ply (and some mixing cups) arrived from Aircraft Spruce.-

  Jan 10, 2024     Attached rudder - (1.5 hours)       Category: Empennage

There are only two attach points for the rudder but because of the need to insert washers around the rod end bearings, it's a major pain in the neck. But they got inserted. The instructions I have call for the elastic locking 365 nuts. But the new instructions call for an -03 metal locking nut, which I used. My guess is this may have to come off at some point before I attach the cables so I haven't torqued things down. I'm sending out my torque wrenches for calibration.

  Dec 29, 2023     Completed service letter SL000068 - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

I borrowed Vince Bastianii's rivet gun and riveted the nutplate, spacers, and bracket assembly on the outboard bracket. Tough getting in there with a bucking bar but I did so. I had previously squeezed the rivets on the inboard assembly. then I reattached the inboard assembly and riveted the top and bottom into place on both sides and reinstalled all bolts holding things to the spar; torqued.

I'm not ready, I guess to reinstalled the emp on the fuselage. Everything is dusty. I polished a couple of areas on the VS and stabilator skin that might be some corrosion but I'm not sure. Better safe than sorry.

I loosely attached the VS per instructions in section 11 of the KAI.

  Dec 28, 2023     Prepped spacers etc - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

I primed the bare metal of the brackets then prepped each of four spacers by deburring and radiusing the forward edge. I dimpled the thing spacers and countersunk the thick ones but couldn't rivet them all in place until I can borrow a rivet gun.

  Dec 26, 2023     Started on Stabilator service letter SL0000-68 - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

It was good to get back out to the hangar to do some work. The little camper has been given away so have more elbow room. I took the stabilator, put it on the worktable and started working on the service letter. I don't really know what the point of this is. Allegedly, it was hard to install washers when attaching the stabilator to the empennage. I don't know. I don't remember that long ago. I know there are washers super-glued to the brackets and these, I guess, are replaced by shims. Whoopdy-doo. I'm not the best driller-outer of rivets and a few have to be removed to remove the inboard brackets and nutplates. But I got most of the out without trouble and the ones that gave me troubled didn't result in buggering up the hole too badly. The next step is to prime some bare metal on the brackets where I've sanded super glue away so I've got to hit the NAPA store and see if I can find some.

  Dec 25, 2023     SL-00070 - (.1 hour) Category: Service B's

There's a service letter out to install an optional fuel tank access fitting to make it easier to check the fuel pickup strainer. I haven't done anything on the project since returning from back East because it's cold and the canopy is loosely sitting on the frame and I don't want to touch it. So I'll wait but ordered and received the installation kit.

  Aug 09, 2023     Added canopy blocks - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

The replacement canopy blocks showed up so I went back to the hangar one final time before shutting it down for the summer. They installed fine. Then I riveted on the guide that goes into the slots. I didn't bother adding the blocks to the rollbar yet (Van's acknowledged that they should be drilled #27, btw). In some of these shots you can see a problem. The edge distance on the canopy skirt-to-attach angle i miniscule. This is only on the pilot side. I'm dumbfounded as to why this would be since there's really only one way for the skirts to fit, especially with the cardboard spacers in place.

I clecoed on the canopy and then put screws/nuts in place along the rear bow. What I found is, despite the clecoes being staight as I drilled, the holes, while perpendicular to the plexi, are not PERFECTLY lined up with the hole in the canopy frame. And how could they be since the method of drilling is to eyeball the underlying frame hole. This as a little easier to cover on the RV-7A since we were dealing with flush screws; not so on the RV-12.

I remain concerned about the canopy edge slightly resting against the frame near the forward corner cutouts. Van's tech support didn't seem particularly concerned in this location, but I am.

  Aug 08, 2023     Canopy latch odds and ends - (1 hour)       Category: Canopy

My email to Van's support was returned and was underwhelming. There are new support people there and it's tough to get a straight answer. The only answer I got to the question of whether the callout for a #19 hole when it's to be tapped to 8-32 was "best to use the instructions for the parts you have" when I'd asked if that callout was correct and had been corrected in a subsequent revision before the plans and part numbers changed?

Anyway, a new bushing for the canopy latch arrived (couldn't find the original one) which meant a $3 part with $5 shipping) and I had to file it out to get it to fit over the canopy handle. I beveled the inside of the lower edge so it would fit lower on the handle as instructed. And I painted the handle (I knew the old engine mount would be good for something).

I also made the lifting latches out of 3/4x3/4/x.063 (after a search located the angle), and then put the parts aside for the spring as I'm about to leave for Boston.

So the canopy is sitting on the frame, unclecoed and we'll get back to it when I return from the East.

  Aug 05, 2023     Guide block nonsense - (1 hour)       Category: Canopy

Parts and instructions have changed since the finishing kit was delivered years ago and sometimes that can bite you in the tush. So can just being dumb. I pulled out the plastic blocks that go along with the guide plate. Instructions say to tap the holes 8-32 and countersink for a #8 screw, so I drilled the holes to #19. Why? Because the canopy latch instructions have you do the same thing. But #19, at least for the canopy block, is too large a hole for an 8-32 tap. So I had to reorder the block and they're stupid expensive ($12 apiece. For plastic). Not sure how that latch is going to work out but I guess we'll find out later.

I also pulled the guide blocks. These parts have changed since my finishing kit arrived. These instructions also say to drill #19 and tap. Nope. Not gonna do it. I sent a note to Van's asking if that's correct.

I put the canopy back on the frame without clecoing it down and I think that's where I'll keep it through the winter as I'm soon to leave for back East.

Airplane construction is likely over for this year.

  Aug 03, 2023     Painted skirts - (.5 hour) Category: Canopy

Not much to do at the hangar so primed and painted (rattle can; hammered finish) the interior side off the canopy skirts.

  Aug 02, 2023     Canopy work - (4 hours)       Category: Canopy

It was another warm day in the Twin Cities, perfect for drilling plexiglass, so "H", our longtime family friend agreed again to be the hobbit who got inside to hold the wood block against the canopy skirts. She did a fine job but when done, I noticed the edge distance on the left side was quite small. How is this possible? The canopy skirts are predrilled, the canopy was closed in its normal position; everything was as directed. No clue, and I'm not going to worry about it.

I had someone coming for a camper rental demonstration hours later so I decided to just stay at the hangar and work.

I deburred the new holes in the canopy, then drilled all the holes out to #27 and deburred them again. Then I countersunk all the holes in the canopy along the front bow.

I drilled the canopy latch mechanism as intructed. I'll need to prime and paint the latch. And I drilled the canopy guide and countersunk it to fit a #8 screw. I'd done pretty much the same thing to the canopy latch after drilling out to a #19 as instructed. So I did the same thing to the blocks. That was stupid. First, an 8-32 tap takes a #27 hole, not a #19. So I ordered new blocks. They're backordered. So I think that pretty much concludes the canopy work for this year.

  Jul 27, 2023     Drilled canopy skirts - (3 hours)       Category: Canopy

Another hot day in the Twin Cities so it was back to work on the canopy. I put it back on the canopy frame but the sides still don't tuck into place so it was a lot of sanding and fitting and finally got them to sit flush against the canopy attach angle. Once that was done, I taped up the canopy skirts and then drilled and clecoed them to the canopy frame on both sides. Then dimpled the forward five holes on each and countersunk the corresponding holes on the frame and bent the forward part so they sit up against the canopy. Then I removed everything and deburred all holes on the frame, canopy, and skirts and trimmed the aft end of the skirts to allow a 1/16" clearance to the tailcone skin.

Next step is to put it back on after having a volunteer, probably Heather, get inside and then drill the skirts to the canopy and attach angles.

Everything is looking good so far.

  Jul 27, 2023     Drilled front and rear bows - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

The temperature in the hangar yesterday hit a balmy 101 degrees and I didn't want to miss out on perfect conditions for drilling acrylic plastic so I went to the hangar and drilled the canopy to the front and rear bows of the canopy frame.

Before I did, however, I sought information from Van's Aircraft's technical department regarding instructions to "pull down" the sides of the canopy and duct tape them down, knowing that doing so would eliminate the near perfect fit of the sides of the canopy against the canopy frame angles (these and the side skirts still to be drilled will "sandwich" the edges of the canopy in place).

The response :
//Hi Bob,

//Yes, what you are doing is acceptable. The plexiglass will flex a bit. It is best to fit first and trim second. As long as you are getting good contact over the front bow, you will what to avoid filing. This may cause a weak point.

//Thanks!

//Tom

I had also asked about that point where the canopy edge goes over the canopy frame near the notch cutout. They didn't seem concerned about that.

And so I did as instructed and drilled the canopy to the frame front and back, using the deburring tool on each hole in the canopy before clecoing it into place.

After doing so, I found that there's NOT flex in the canopy to move those sides back into position after removing the duct tape, so I marked them and after taking off the canopy, sanded the sides to near the line to see if they'll fit better. I didn't sand them all the way to the line but pretty close. I'll do more after I pick up some 100 grit sandpaper. I polished the edges to 225, 400, and 600 grit just to be safe.

I also deburred the underside of the holes in the canopy and all the holes on the front and rear bow.

I guess I was supposed to drill the side skirts to the canopy frame (not through the plexi) before taking the canopy off the frame but, of course, until the sides fit back in their appointed spot, I can't really do that. Once they do, I'll have a helper next week hold a wood block against the frame as I drill the side skirts though the canopy.

I'll probably have to wait until spring to do the fiberglass work in the front of the canopy as I'm moving back East for three months but getting this part done now puts me back on track to maybe get this thing in the air next year. Whether I'm flying it is still to be determined.

By the way, looking back at the instructions (where I date everything), I found it was FOUR YEARS AGO when I first pulled the canopy out of the shipping box and set it on the canopy frame.

  Jul 25, 2023     Drilled front frame - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

Fit the canopy again and sanded edges . Then did the tape trick to indicate where the canopy meets frame. Removed canopy and drilled #40 pilot holes. Will drill tomorrow.

Not quite sure about instruction to duct tape sides and pull down but we'll see.

  Jul 24, 2023     Fit canopy - (2 hours)       Category: Canopy

It's the hottest week of the year so far and I've finished building a shed for Sean (except for painting) and I'm thinking MAYBE I can get the canopy fitted and drilled before I have to move to Massachuetts for three months to take care of my sister, who is battling leukemia and just had a stem cell transplant. So I pulled the very dusty canopy out. And it fits great with the rear window. I didn't realize I wouldn't have to be doing a lot of slicing like when I built the RV-7A canopy many years ago.

I'm stuck, however on some dimensions Van's calls out in the plans for the forward corners. There are reference lines on the plans but they don't seem to point to anything. I'll do some more research.

  Jul 24, 2023     Complied with SB 00059 - (.1 hour)       Category: Service B's

I hadn't attached the old canopy latch block yet so complying with this one didn't require much. Just had to find the screws and pull out the new canopy latch block and screw it in.

  Jul 02, 2023     Sealed rear window - (2 hours)       Category: Finishing

I wasn't convinced that using the Van's "baggie method" to inject ProSeal between the turtle deck skin and the rear window would lead to anything but a mess so I bought a couple of 100 ml syringes to use. Worked Ok. Acceptable, not great. The main problem I had is I used electrical tape to protect the turtle deck aluminum skin and when you curl it according to the instructions to allow access to the screws, it actually curls over and onto the window at the two rear curves. I have one thin spot -- the curve on the pilot side -- but I'm going to leave it as is. It's fine. I kind which I'd done a better job with the filet process. I also have some adhesive and ProSeal remnant on the skin I need to get off. Can't use chemicals; bad for acrylics. I may just sand with 400+ grit. We'll see.

  Jun 27, 2023     Reinstalled window - (1 hour)       Category: Finishing

I've done very little work at the hangar this month because I'm trying to get other projects done before I move to the Boston area for three months to take care of my sister while she undergoes a bone marrow transplant. But while waiting for a camper renter to return, I finished polishing the edges of the rear window and then put it back on the plane, lightly securing it with the called-out hardware. I have to figure out how to shoot some ProSeal under the turtle deck before tightening up the screws. The "baggie" method sounds really messy.

  Jun 01, 2023     Finished final adjustments to rear window - (4 hours)       Category: Finishing

I ran a line of electrical tape even with the aft edge of the front part of the rollbar, but, really, the window already lined up perfectly except for a small part at the base of the right side. Used the edge scraper from ATS (expense) to bevel top and bottom edges. I sanded it down with 225, then 400, then 600 sandpaper. Then I drilled out all holes to #27 and took a deburring tool to all holes. I used the scraper to bevel top and bottom edges and sanded those with 225/400/600. I sanded out the accommodation for the fuel filler neck and sanded that. Drilled out holes in the turtle deck to #27 using a reamer and deburred. Broke the edges inward for a better fit. Cleaned it all up with mineral spirits and decided to let it dry completely before reinstalling the window (tomorrow? maybe) at which time I'll run a bead of ProSeal to keep the water out.

  May 29, 2023     Window drilled - (4.5 hours)       Category: Finishing

Finally! After about 8 months of waiting and the stars to align, the temperature hit 85 in the Twin Cities today, which is a lot better than hitting 85 in July. So our dear friend Heather -- the daughter we never had -- agreed to help with the wood-block holding as I alternately drilled #30 and #40 holes. After cutting her loose, I went back over the rollbar, reaming the #40 holes out to #26, then tapping them 6-32 and inserting a screw lightly to hold it in place. I'm not sure when I'll be back at the hangar so I didn't put the electrical tape in place to mark the trim but there's also very little trimming to be done. After that, I'll ream out the turtle skin-window holes to #27 and clean up the edges and then trim for the filler neck.

I'm very happy with how it's going and very happy to finally get it done.

  May 15, 2023     Now back to the window - (.5 hour)       Category: Finishing

The thermometer in the hangar said 80. Not sure I believe that but it was at least warm enough to move the rear window into place and try to get it positioned for drilling when I do believe it.

  May 08, 2023     Complied with Stabilator counterweight service bulletin - (1.5 hours)       Category: Service B's

Finally gorgeous weather in Minnesota so took the e-bike over to the hangar looking for something to do. Originally I was considering putting the stabilator on for good so pulled out the service bulletin and kit which is pretty easy. Just take the weights off and throw away the hardware (I don't reuse hardware), fit the new "mass balancing straps" and then use them as the drill guide to drill 3 holes on each side. Remove, deburr, reinstall and then rivet with six Cherrymax rivets. The only question I had was Van's sends four washers where only two are indicated. Knowing how cheap Van's is, I'm not sure what that's all about.

Anyway, I didn't drill any weight out of the counterweights because that's to be done after painting. But everything else is done.

Almost warm enough to drill some rear window holes, which at the moment is holding everything up. C'mon, summer!

  May 06, 2023     Painted canopy frame - (.5 hour)       Category: Canopy

Slowly -- too slowly -- it's warming up outside and soon it will be warm enough to start drilling some acrylic plastic. I noticed over the winter I hadn't painted the canopy frame so now that the hangar is dried out and warmed up a bit, I grabbed a can of hammered finish rattle can paint and did the job. Looks acceptable.

Other than that, not much more I can do until that rear window is drilled and installed. I did buy a battery charger for the EarthX battery and took care of that, though.

  Apr 27, 2023     Finished GPU installation - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

The 1" 6-32 screws arrived from Aircraft Spruce (ordered some epoxy too) so I installed them, four washers on each screw to attach the GPU plug to the bracket. I moved the groundwire to the other side of the overflow bottle which is much better tested it out. Still a little weird with the G3X dimming when I turn on the avionics. Also when I turn on the master even though the battery isn't connected. I'll read up on things.

  Apr 18, 2023     Made a bracket for GPU - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I did my blood platelet donation and then stopped by the hangar to do a little cleaning and started looking at ways to brace the GPU plug. I had a couple of DG-14 Adel clamps so I made up a backing plate (which was included in the White Lightning installation kit that came with the unit but not with the $25 replacement kit) and finally got the plate secured to the engine mount. I'm going to reroute the ground wire to the other side of the coolant tank. I couldn't screw on the GPU plug itself because I don't have 1" #6 screws. God forbid they should include those in the kit.

  Mar 16, 2023     Wired up White Lightning GPU - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Finally got the White Lightning wired up. Nice little unit. Only thing I noticed is when I turn on the avionics, the display dims considerably (and stays that way) on the G3Xs (dual screen). The draw doesn't seem significant, especially since only the radio and xponder are added on the avionics.

  Mar 12, 2023     Riveted cockpit light bracket - (.1 hour)       Category: Lighting

There are new versions of the Chapter 40 (Lighting) than the one that came with my lighting kit and it was a little confusing because the instructions for installing the eyeball cockpit light have you wiring up a potentiometer and a housing for it. I didn't get that. Browing around Van's website, it seems clear that it's either included in newer kits OR available as an option for $110. Since I'll be flying under light sport/sport pilot rules, I can't fly at night so I don't need to spend $110 to dim a light I'm not going to use in the first place.

I also traced various wiring up around the cockpit rollbar that doesn't exactly match my instructions. There is a two wire lead coming out of the connector at the canopy latch unit and I THINK that's designed to be wired to the eyeball light; it appears to be a common ground, which makes sense.

I found a bag with two ES-00141s -- butt splices for 22-26 gauge wire. But my standard crimpers won't crimp a butt splice that small -- it's a tiny wire. So I'll have to come up with something (a pair of pliers?).

So, anyway, all I got done besides shoveling more snow at the hangar was riveting on the eyeball light bracket.

  Mar 10, 2023     Miscellaneous puttering - (1 hour)       Category: Lighting

I added the RTV red silicone to the #1 exhaust springs and added a little more to the other three.


I finished off the throttle quadrant handle. Stupidly, bought a handful of stop nuts thinking the nut on the handle was a different size than I already had.

I then moved on to the cockpit lightning and drilled out two rivets in the rollbar, clecoed on the eyeball holder, match drilled two other holes and then countersunk the three holes that hold the eyeball and brought it home for priming and painting.

The rest of my time was spent looking for the instructions and connector bag for the White Lightning Power Unit. Didn't find them and the replacement connectors has shipped. What a mystery this has become.

  Mar 08, 2023     Finished trimming bottom cowling - (2 hours)       Category: Engine

Using a dremel and a cutoff wheel (actually several wheels), I finished trimming back to the 3/8" line in the bottom cowling cutout for the oil cooler and the radiator. I sanded everything smooth and then refit the cowl. It fits slick as snot. I'll remeasure everything and sand or file away more in spots that aren't quite trimmed back to 3/8" at some point.

I also added a bit of RTV where the pitot tube begins to snake around the airbox on the Rotax 912iS. I saw that the Lockwood RV-12iS that someone posted on Van's Air Force had done that, though it's not in the instructions.

And I torqued down the #1 EGT probe.

  Mar 08, 2023     Complied with SB-00064-RV12 - (.5 hour)       Category: Service B's

After I finished trimming the cowling around the radiator and the oil cooler, I doublechecked to be sure none of the exhaust components were interfering with the bottom cowl, then removed it and installed the "flat springs" around the slip joints on the #1 exhaust tubing. Simple

Also I have to remember the red RTV on that spring.

  Mar 07, 2023     Fitting bottom cowling - (1.5 hours)       Category: Engine

I fit the bottom canopy, which, as expected, hits the radiator and oil cooler and then measured 3/8" around the opening, drew the line and then cut away that much using a Dremel tool. I couldn't finish the cut as I'd promised Carolie I'd take her to lunch at Holman Table at the downtown St. Paul Airport (it was delicious, by the way.) Expect it to be a very nice fit once it's cut and sanded.

  Mar 06, 2023     Secured throttle cable       Category: Engine

While looking over the instructions on the throttle cable (as a result of looking at the photos of Lockwood's RV-12iS), I realized I didn't have a double Adel clamp on the engine mount to secure it and keep it from rubbing against the mount. Maybe I had it on before I had to take the engine off to replace the mount but I don't think so. So I installed the clamp and, of course, it took about 2 hours, evoking surgeons in an operating room. I also adjusted the White Lightning cable to allow the overflow bottle to fit back in, I put some heat shrink on the end of the throttle cable, and I secured more wiring with some tie wraps.

Also secured the pitot line to an Adel clamp, wrapping it first in some rescue tape. We'll see how that works out.

Unfortunately, I can't find the terminal kit for the White Lightning, which I'd brought home to read and then put somewhere. So I had to order another one. $25 plu $20 shipping. Ridiculous.

  Mar 05, 2023     Mucking around the engine - (1 hour) Category: Avionics

While I was up in Vermont, the hangar flooded a bit since I wasn't around to shovel so went out a little bit today to start the cleanup, then got interested in moving a couple of small wires (to the battery contactor) because I didn't like the route I had. I went over the engine mount support instead. Not sure that's much better. But I added some spiral wrap.

For the White Lightning, I bought two battery cables from Van's. I'll hack one end off on each to solder on the connectors. I attached one to the battery contactor. But now, of course, I can't find the White Lightning connectors.

And finally, I saw a post on VAF with pictures of the engine installation and looked at my throttle cable route. I don't see how it doesn't chafe on the engine mount support tube. Will investigate maybe installing some clamp.

  Feb 15, 2023     Attached throttle lever plate - (1 hour)       Category: Finishing

I went to the hangar with the best of intentions to get stuff done but, alas, all I got done was adding a snap bushing to a spot on the passenger side that I'd missed, and adding the plastic plate at the base of the throttle quadrant. I tried to add the throttle cross lever but couldn't find the right nut. Or I had the right nut but it wouldn't fit. So, of course, I submittied a 20-cent order to Van's.

I pulled out the service bulletin fix kit for the exhaust, but I didn't have the printed instructions with me. So I gave up and called it an afternoon.

  Feb 12, 2023     Set ECO stop - (1 hour)       Category: Controls

There was one item in Section 49 (engine controls) that I had to leave undone last year because I needed an EFIS display to complete: setting the ECO stop for 98% power. When I fired up the G3X, I couldn't see where the throttle setting was displayed but Tony Kirk at Van's pointed it out. Then when I checked my ECO stop position, it only displayed 97% power. So I filed some of the back of the stop off and remounted (and repeated) until the throttle went to 98% power and locked it in place. Also checked that throttle level operates through the entire range.

I just have to install the handle, check to see if I put heat shrink at the end of the throttle cable, and reinstall the tunnel cover (can't do it yet because I haven't attached rudder cables; I should do that soon) to complete Section 49.

While searching for an errant washer, I also discovered that I didn't put a snap bushing in the bundle where it enters the air frame under the passenger area. I'll do that next.

  Feb 07, 2023     SB fix kits arrive - (.1 hour) Category: Service B's

The fix kits for stabilator mass, hinge spacer, exhaust flat spring, and canopy latch arrived. None of these should be very difficult as final installation hasn't occurred on any of them.

  Feb 06, 2023     Avionics are alive - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

The temperature rocketed up to 34, so I headed to the hangar with no discernible plan. I tie-wrapped the heck out of the wiring behind the AV--6000 to tidy things up. I also added some spiral wrap to the wiring that branches off to the pitch servo because I was concerned it would chafe on the airframe and/or the fuel shutoff cable.

I looked at wiring in the White Lightning power unit to the battery contactor but it doesn't come up with any connectors to do so. So I decided it was time to attach the +/- cables to the lithium battery and fire up the avionics.

They came alive find. Not much is connected so the G3X has lots of error messages -- spar pins, canopy, AHRS etc. I haven't read enough, really about how the Rotax works so I just quickly flipped on the fuel pumps to see that they operate (they do) . I got a "fault" on Lane B on the ECU but I think it's probably too early to worry about that sort of thing. I still have some connections to make up front anyway.

The three green lights -- avionics master etc - on the switches do not light although the switches themselves are functioning.

[Update: The Lane B fault was no big deal. I had turned both on at the same time. Flipping A on and waiting and then Flipping B on worked. Engine data, such as it is, showed up on the MFD after I restarted it in config mode. And finally those green lights on the three switches ARE on; you just can't see them because of the placement of the switch]

  Jan 29, 2023     Ground power unit - (.1 hour) Category: Avionics

It's clear that there's a good sized learning curve behind the RV-12 avionics so I bought Van's' White Lightning ground power unit so I can sit in the plane and play with the avionics without draining the battery. The installation question is whether it should be wired to the output side of the battery contactor (I'm leaning that way) or the input side. With the output side, you can power the airframe without draining the battery because you don't turn on the battery master. With the input side you get the benefit of recharging the battery without turning on the battery master.

I'm reluctant to do that because I don't know enough about recharging issues for the EarthX lithium battery.

In any event, it'll be a bear to get access to either side of the battery contactor so it'll wait 'til warming weather. -8 this morning in Minnesota.

  Jan 25, 2023     Closed up the panel - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

With the big wires grommets properly ProSealed, I did a final check of the wiring and added some spiral wrap in spots where I thought chafing was a possibility -- primarily the com antenna at the firewall (that connector really should be a right angle connector) and also some of the wires to the HIC modules area that I thought might contact the frame of the transponder. I also tie-wrapped a couple of spots. Then I reinstalled the upper fuselage skin (of course I'm short two plastic washers and I have to order some of the stainless 507 screws in a future Van's order).

And then I attached the second G3X. That done, I followed the instructions, put a piece of tape on the upper right corner of the G3X, reinstalled the canopy frame and checked for interference. Yep, it rubbed on both sides. So I filed and filed until it BARELY closes and open without hiitting but there's no way that's not going to rub slightly once the canopy is on. But I was mindful of the admonishment not to file all the way through the tube of the frame. How much is that? I don't know and didn't want to find out so once I got it to clear, I resigned myself to the fact there'd be rub marks on the upper outer corners of the G3X's, which there are anyway because that tape didn't protect squat. Whatever.

Finally, I cut the pitot lines where they meet and connected them with the quick connect FLF00023. Seems to me where that come up from the tunnel could be a chafing point; not sure how to protect that.

The other thing I have to figure out is what to do with all the extra wire from the trim servo.

I have a ground power unit on the way so I don't wear down the battery when testing everything out, and I'm awaiting a Halotron fire extinguisher before I power everything up. The regular ABC fire extinguishers destroy electrical equipment and aluminum.

[Update 2/4] Needed, ordered, and received more AN507C832R8 screws and a couple of black washers for the upper fuselage skin and instrument panel. It's funny how hardware walks away after inventory.

  Jan 20, 2023     Sealed wire pass-through - (.2 hour)       Category: Avionics

I mixed up some ProSeal, jammed it into a syringe, then drove to the hangar to better seal the two rubber grommets with ECU and GPS wires. I ProSealed the passenger-side grommets after the pass through was less than sturdy after a previous session in which the engine side only was ProSealed.

  Jan 17, 2023     Nutplate for fuel inspection cover and installed AP head - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Hadn't been out to the hangar in awhile other than to shovel snow and when I arrived today a bunch of snow (very heavy) fell off the roof so I had to shovel that out so the hangar doesn't flood. More to come tomorrow, I suspect. It's coming into the hangar but, so far, not as bad as last year.

One of the things I wanted to do today is add a new nutplate to the fuel cover. You may recall that, as designed, the nutplate is DANGEROUSLY close to the fuel line, especially the old design lines. I had earlier removed it. (See August 25, 2022 entry). So I added a new one and then took some firesleeve and ziptied it to the fuel line which rests almost on the bottom skin. In the spring I'll put some blue RTV in there.

I also added the head for the autopilot and test fit the MFD. I have to reinstall the top cover in order to screw both Garmin G3X in but I still want to load up a syringe with a bunch of ProSeal to cover the wire grommets on both sides first.

I also removed all the spark plugs and shot some oil fog in each cylinder to prevent corrosion. I put the spark plugs back but they are not torqued

  Dec 24, 2022     Completed right wing electrical connector fix - (.2 hour) Category: Lighting

I only had a few minutes to spend in the hangar after helping to pull a car out of a snowdrift from the blizzard of the last three days but I was able to crimp on a new connector for the ground wire and insert it, then screwed the terminal to the wing rib. That completes part off the stuff-to-do-in-the--winter list for this year.

I really should get going on finishing the "lighting" section.

  Dec 16, 2022     Prepped panel for MFD - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

Some of the section of the KAI on the dual G3X display aren't particularly complete, especially if you have the extra-spendy silk-screened panels. In one section it tells you to countersink holes that don't need to be countersunk and in another is doesn't tell you to countersink holes that do need to be countersunk. So the only real way to identify the countersinking is to put the panel section on and put the G3X in and see which holes it's covering. Those are the ones that need to be countersunk.

So I did that over a couple of days, bringing the panel home to do the task, and then I reinstalled it and test fit the G3X. I haven't yet permanently put it in because there's a few things I want to do before closing things up. Some wire wrap arrived from Aircraft Spruce that I'll use to protect some areas that I think might be chafe prone.

SCREW pan HD 4-40 5/8 came in a Van's order along with some heat shrink.

I also still need to install the autopilot control head.

BTW, I've given up trying to fit the harness in those plastic doohickeys down near the fuses that Van's wanted installed. They're just not big enough and it's just a really, really crappy design there. I would much rather have put some Adel clamps in. I'll probably leave the plastic junk in and tie wrap it "closed" around the wires.

That's another area where chafing concerns me because of the metal throttle and fuel shutoff cables that share some of the space. I may wrap some "rescue tape" around the wires. We'll see.

  Dec 12, 2022     Completed SB-00058 - (2 hours)       Category: Service B's

Everything went great in complying with the service bulletin to replace the HIC module because of reports of low fuel pressure, probably because of loose contacts in the Molex connector on the old HIC. I opened up the connector and cut the wires, checking the wire number for confirmation. I made up new labels because Stein's labels aren't covered with heat shrink and some are smudged so I wanted something permanent that also indicated what pin each wire goes into on the new connector. Then I inserted them where they go after stripping off 1/4" of wire on the 14 gauge wire. I like these connectors much better.

I did a continuity test to be sure each wire was properly connected by checking the X3 connector on the fuse and also ground points for both the airframe and "Lane A".

Then I reinstalled the ECU which is moved slightly. Thus the newly drilled holes via the TOOL-00114k. Everything looks great and now I should be able to continue with installation of the passenger side G3X.

  Dec 11, 2022     Started on SB-00058 - (1 hour)       Category: Service B's

I removed the old HIC module after moving the ECU out of the way yesterday. Then I clecoed and screwed in pace TOOL-00114, which is, basically, a drill guide. That done, removed the guide, then filed the holes a little bit to get the new HIC module -- now known as AV-600009 -- to fit in the slots. I have not yet screwed it into place.

The next step will be to disconnect the old wires from the old Molex connector and insert them into the new connector. I think that maybe gets done before I screw it in place but I didn't have heat on in the hangar today because that kerosene I'm using is really dirty and I didn't feel like breathing fumes today. And it needs to be comfortable to do some wiring work in confined spaces. Maybe tomorrow.

  Dec 10, 2022     Replaced right wing connector       Category: Wings

I repeated the left wing wire ID process on the right wing, removed all of the AMP connectors and installed a new blue AMP connector box. I didn't label the wires, instead I made marks on the wire to indicate what pin # on the connector each pin goes in. The KIA has the actual wire number. I couldn't remount the connector, though because I need the MS35206-218 screws, which I've ordered from Van's. Van's says it's taking more than a week now to fill orders. Should've ordered from Aircraft Spruce.

BTW, the #1 wire (ground) pulled out of the pin when I was removing it. Bad crimp. Good thing I did all this. I had to order new pins from -- you guessed it -- Van's.

All that (sort of) done, I turned attention to the service bulletin to replace the Molex connector on the HIC module (SB-00058). I didn't do much because the kerosene heater was overwhelming with fume so I removed the ECU (which is step one), saved the hardware (taped it to the ECU), and will continue the work tomorrow, perhaps.

  Dec 05, 2022     Completed AOA installation, wire ID. - (1 hour)       Category: Lighting

Th RV-12iS HIC module replacement kit finally showed up so I can get going on that next now that I finished the AOA installation in the left wing. That was made possible by getting a tube of Molikote (aka Dow 4 lubricant) and inserting the 2" aluminum tube. Seem a little wobbly but it's in as far as it can go. And now I'm wondering if there's supposed to be an O-ring in there like there is on the fuselage side. I'll bet there is.

Anyway, I wired the stall warning switch and took off the nav/strobe light and used the multimeter to identify all wires. I labeled the ones at the light, but I'd just stuck the labels at the wing root and they eventually fell off. So this time I put some clear heat shrink over them. And I'm posting extra pictures in the event I want to identify things in the future.

Shortly I'll put on a new connector and this time be sure all the wires are in the proper receptacle.

**update***
One of the problems with the Van's instructions and wiring diagrams is that it only uses numbers for wires rather than a description of what the wires actually DO. In the picture below, the Black, Yellow, Green, and Red wires are not in the Molex connector in the same order as in the Van's KAI. So I had check and doublecheck to be sure that they went to the correct pin at the wing route. And I'm making this update in case me or the plane's future owner needs to repeat the search.

First, the Aeroled Pulsar EXP wiring:
The Black is Ground
The Yellow is Strobe Power
The Red is NAV light Power
The Green is Strobe Sync.

Depending what version of the KAI you have, the wire numbers could be different. I THINK the wiring comes in a harness now whereas before, we had to make our own wiring.

The pre-2019 wire numbers are as follows (left wing):

Strobe Power - B203 (Yellow on the fixture) Goes in Pin #8 at the wing root. On new harnesses: White wire at the wing root.
Nav Power - B212 (Red on the fixture). Goes in Pin #6 at the wing root. On new harnesses: White/orange at the wing root.
Strobe Sync - B318 (Green on the fixture). Goes in Pin #7 at the wing root. On new harnesses: White/blue wire at the wing root.
Black, of course, is ground and is locally connected.
The other wire in the left wing harness is B218 (stall warning). That is now W217 on the Van's wiring chart. Goes in Pin 2.

Pre RV-12iS has a landing light only in the right wing so I have not included that here.

  Nov 22, 2022     Let's wait some more! - (.3 hour) Category: Wings

I found out today that -- surprise - the fix kit for the Van's Service bulletin on the HIC connector is now back-ordered. I love Van's but this is getting ridiculous. At least when things were bad last year they produced video updates describing what they're doing to cure their supply problems. But on has not been produced since April.

But Van's also has a quality control issue. In the absence of anything else to do, I decided to finish up the Angle of Attack kit installation in the wing, the last step of which calls for making a 2 inch long aluminum tube that connects the wing to the fuselage, allowing the AOA pressure to go up to the Garmin instruments.

One was in the retrofit kit. Wrong sized tube.

So ordered another one. $4 plus the usual handling. The website says it's in stock. We'll see.

  Nov 21, 2022     Reinstalled fuel line, autopilot servo and fuel tank - (3 hours)       Category: Fuel System

The new fuel line went in OK -- it might have been about 1/32" long -- but took a lot of finagling to get the threads to engage on the fitting but that was eventually accomplished. Had to remove one control rod to reinstall the Adel (cushioned) clamp then holds it into place and then reinstalled. Then bolted the fuel tank back in place, torqued all fittings to about 87 inch pounds (after calculating for the Crow's foot). I used a torque value of the midway point of the callout for a 3/8" aluminum tube. Then reinstalled the auto pilot servo and control rod. Lots of scrapes on the hand.

  Nov 21, 2022     Constructed new fuel line. Again - (1 hour)       Category: Fuel System

I brought a bunch of tools home so I could work on making a new tank-to-fuel-pump line in relative warmth. I was exceedingly careful with measurements and came up with one I THINK will work. In order to get those measurements right, I did the pump end first, which is a 90-degree bend. That allowed me to place it on the figure in the instructions (27iS-04 Figure 2) to get the reference point for a 20 29/32" mark, which is the beginning of the bend line for the tank end. Then I put the fittings on and flared that end.

Of course, now I can't use a spring bender to make this bend and if I'd made the bend first I wouldn't be able to get the collar on before flaring the tube.

What I was able to do is put the whole thing in a small Imperial tube bender to at least START the bend. I didn't get it quite right, but I got it pretty close.

So where did that nick come from? One of the suggestions the last time I made (remade, actually) this line was to put a bulkhead fitting on and use that for leverage when making the bend. It's possible that it put pressure on the collar which dug into the soft aluminum; I just don't know. But as I said earlier, this is the second nick I've discovered on this line (one I might've made when tightening a B-nut) so I'm going to keep a close eye on this to see if I'm missing anything.

  Nov 19, 2022     Added missing rivets; pulled fuel line - (2 hours)       Category: Fuel System

17 degrees today so I didn't anticipate spending too much time at the hangar; I'd intended only to START the process of pulling the fuel tank so that I could install those four rivets I missed during construction of the center section. But the fuel tank came out easily once I loosened the fuel lines so I pulled it and finished those rivets.

However, I noticed a "nick" in the fuel line just below the collar for the B Nut. This is the second time I've found a nick in this location. Previously I thought maybe a wrench dinged it during tightening. The fuel tank is a really poor design and it's near impossible to get wrenches on the nuts. But on this particular nut, I think it was the collar that pressed into the tubing somehow; possibly while making a bend. I don't know.

But I pulled the fuel line which means I also had to remove the autopilot servo. This is a REAL pain in the neck to make because the Van's instructions don't work; at the tank end it says to make a 21/32" mark and begin a 35 degree bend, THEN flair the tube. You can't; a collar won't fit over the bend and you can't flare with the collar in the place. This has to be done after flaring using spring benders.

I've got enough tubing to make one, maybe two attempts at getting it right. We'll see.

  Nov 15, 2022     Removing AMP connectors - (.1 hour)       Category: Avionics

After testing out various options to removing the AMP connectors on the wing route housing and considering other alternatives to buying a $157 tool from DigiKey, I decided to buy the $157 tool.

After today's funeral for my friend and former neighbor, Hadley Bakker (ALS sucks!), we stopped by the hangar briefly to test it out.

I don't remember what sex was like, really, but it must've been like this.

  Nov 13, 2022     Preparing to undo stuff for a service bulletin - (.1 hour)       Category: Service B's

I took another look at Van's Service Bulletin 00058 and realized I misread the affected models of the need to replace an HIC module that regulates power to the fuel pumps. Or I forgot what year it is. One of those. It affects avionics kits shipped before August 2022. For some reason I was thinking 2021 and mine was shipped to SteinAir in November 2021. So I've ordered SB-00058 fix kit which will run another $97 or so. Since I'll have to remove the ECU and those big cables, I'm not going to worry about those two grommets since moving the ECU will pull those grommets out for good. I'll just replace them later and do the prosealing all over again.

  Nov 12, 2022     Cleaning up things in the tail cone - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I crawled back into the tailcone and removed the loose zip ties and zip tied the pitot tube, static port tube and magnetometer wiring inside the J-channel. Not fun for a guy with Meniere's Disease. I'll put some RTV in places where they exit the Z-channel.

While I was there I also attached the XM Radio antenna cable to the Garmin router.

Earlier I added more zip ties to the panel wiring as well as to the big cables that go to the Engine Control Unit.

I have to mix up some ProSeal because of those grommets popping out.

  Nov 10, 2022     Discovering errors - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I realized today that I didn't install the transponder. I went back and looked at the instructions which said to install the backplate must missed AND THE TRANSPONDER. So took the top skin off again and did that (and discovered a screw on the backplate I hadn't tightened). But in the process of moving the big cables around, those ProSealed grommets are still coming out of the hole. I really hate the split grommet method Van's uses. I'll have to research more but I'll probably have to put ProSeal on the interior side.

The instructions seem to show the top skin being off for the installation of the PFD (the GDU 460) so I took it off -- again!! -- and started putting the screws in but there's nothing to hold the top left screw. So I asked Van's support and got my "duh" moment when Eric reminded me that I'd added a single lug nutplate (you know, the ones that took three weeks to get?) to the top skin frame. But when I took the top skin off, of course the platenut in that spot disappears. Like I said, "Duh!" I feel like my cognitive skills were better when I started this project.

Anyway, I also installed the radio.

I'm trying to keep things from looking like a rat's nest back there but I'm not sure I'm succeeding.
Now, then, for the problem.

While removing screws in the panel skin -- a boring task -- I just sort of gazed around taking stock of things when I noticed that there are 4 open rivet holes in the center spar carry-through under the fuel tank. No clue how that happened. So I'll have to remove the fuel tank and squeeze those.

I don't know how I missed it but I went back to the plans (20iS-U_12iS page 5 & 6) and these require AN470AD4-8 rivets. I must've gotten distracted. Bad thing.

(Update: Went back and looked at the builder log entry for 12/12/17 and I had noted that I couldn't finish four rivets because they were in a big that was backordered from my fuselage shipment. There's no way those rivets are going to be around anywhere now so I'll have to order some more)

  Nov 10, 2022     Fitting panels - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

Did some more cleaning up of wiring then began fitting panels. Added the ignition module, ELT remote (after buying a Lithium battery that supposedly will last 10 years) and the backup battery switch then screwed it to the frame. Looks good.

  Nov 07, 2022     Sealing grommets - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I took the top instrument panel skin back on, made sure all the connections I needed to make were made, then took off the electronic fuse box, mixed up some ProSeal (neat trick when it's 37 degrees), and sealed up the three grommets with wires to be sure any gasses don't come into the cabin. I also home it will help hold the split grommets in place because it's not a good system. When I built the RV-7A, I used some nice stainless steel firewall passthroughs but Van's has this more rinky dink method.

I also reinstalled covers in the baggage area, though I'm sure they'll come off again.

I worked some more on trying to get the wires out of the wing connectors so I can replace them. It's slow going. With the various tools I have for accomplishing it, I've been able to get only two out thusfar. I dropped a note to SteinAir to see what tool they use.

  Nov 06, 2022     Installed platenuts for instrument panel - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

The order for platenuts from Aircraft Spruce arrived two days after I ordered them (first class). Meanwhile, Van's finally got around to telling me the power supply was backordered - big shock. So I canceled that and told them just to send the hardware which they did. Advantage: Aircraft Spruce. Van's customer service is the worst I've seen since 2001.

It shouldn't take two hours to install four or five platenuts but it did because of the convoluted way they have to be match drilled. I marked the interference spot in the passenger-side panel, removed the plate and filed it away and then installed the platenuts after drilling out one hole to #27. Deburred, dimpled and riveted them in place. I'd already drilled out one platenut on the pilot side but needed to match drill for the platenuts there and I did that, deburred, dimpled, and riveted them in place.

I found one interesting thing. In the instruction for the right side for the Dual Garmin G3X, it says you need to countersink the attach holes - something like 47 of them I think. The nice silk screened and powder coated blanks, however, do not come countersunk so I suspect they're using different hardware to attach those. I'll have to check with Van's.

  Nov 02, 2022     More AOA work - (.3 hour) Category: Wings

I only had a few minutes at the hangar. I was picking up some tools I needed to work on some things at the EAA Chapter 54 clubhouse in Lake Elmo where I've just started a term as the "housing coordinator", an odd name for "janitor."

I looked around for the parts in the AOA kit and, yep, there they were right on the workbench. The discovery came just as I read that Van's has shipped $12 worth of the parts I'd just found. Just great! THAT order you fill right away but two single-lug platenuts are a bridge to far?

Anyway it turns out one of those parts -- a drill template ($3.50 at Van's!) - isn't needed as the hole is already drilled in the root rib (and every other rib) for the Angle of Attack. By the way, the instructions say to enlarge the hole using a step drill to 15/32" with nary an idea that there is NO 15/32" spot on a step drill. I'm sure the extra 1/32" won't be a problem.

A hard plastic piece needs to be cut and the soft plastic tubing is inserted into it 3/8". Then RTV is placed around the connection to seal it. So I did that.

Then I went to Lake Elmo

  Oct 31, 2022     More odds and ends - (1 hour)       Category: Wings

A week later and there's still no indication Van's is sending out my order that included four one-lug platenutes (they really have never really recovered from the disastrous problems of last year) and I need them to continue with the end of the avionics installation, so I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce, which I should have done in the first place.

In the meantime, the long #1 screwdriver showed up so I finished tightening the backplates on the transponder shell. But I can do no more for the moment.

So I did a little more on the AOA installation and decided to just route the tubing along the J channel to the second root rib and squirted RTV in a couple of rib passthroughs to prevent too much chafing. I still don't know if I'll be able to fly this plane but there's no way I'm going to fly it enough for it to be a problem for me. Someone else? I doubt it.

But I can't find any of the rest of the installation kit which includes the drill template for the ribs. Where that's disappeared to I have no idea. I ordered a couple of the items from Van's because I can't help wasting my time.

So now I'm turning my attention to FINALLY getting the two wing wiring connectors replaced. I have a bunch of keys to try to remove those pins but none seem to be working. So I'm going to study how those pins are inserted to see if I can figure it out.

So in other words, I didn't get squat done today.

  Oct 26, 2022     AOA Retrofit - (4 hours)       Category: Wings

SteinAir sent me the hardware necessary to install the connectors on the backs of the COM radio and transponder so I installed those. I had to order a long #1 tip screwdriver to finish the transponder though. I also made minor modifications to the wiring route so that wires aren't resting on the cooling fan. I added the GPS and XM Radio antenna and then I started on the AOA retrofit which is kinda rinky dink.

I drilled a hole in the wing and installed a rivet and then drove the mandrel out (mandrel broke on the first attempt but thy send two. Then I added plastic tubing and made a godawful mess with RTV trying to seal it in place. Not sure how to route the line going inboard. The instructions aren't very good and a drill template isn't to scale.

  Oct 23, 2022     Tidying up some wiring - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

There's not too much I can do until I get the right set of screws to add connectors for both the COM radio and XPNDR but I did a few steps. First, I confirmed the location of the AOA port hole in the left wing but will wait to work on it until someone can help me lift it onto the workbench.

One of the things I like about the Van's store is you can download all of the plans for my project and the pictures are in color and are a heck of a lot better than the black-and--white pictures in the printed KIS that they send you.

For example, Step 3 of 42NiS-16 says "Gather the WH-00134-1 near the inboard aft corner of the ES CPU Fan using the clamp as shown and install the clamp
onto the F-01202B-1 using the screw called out in Figure 1." OK, but there's a LOT of wires there coming from all sorts of different directions. Which ones go in the clamp exactly. Couldn't tell from the printed version but the color picture makes it more clear. The ones coming from the engine compartment do not. The ones coming from the GEA 24 do. Cool.

I bundled them up as instructed. It bothers me a bit that the wires from the GEA 24 are sitting roughly on the cooling fan but I guess I'll address that later. I also want to add the antenna cable and try to reduce that bend in the DSUB connection to the GPS-20A

I also drilled out the left side platenut (per 42NiS-17) and added a #27 hole (still have to do the right side). Single-lug platenuts go here and I don't have any. So I ordered some from Van's and also added a few mounting screws and other hardware called out in the coming steps, figuring I'll lose one or can't find one in the stash sent to me. Plus if Van's says install 19x screws; they give you 19 screws; no more, no less. So there's no room for error.

At the same time, I also ordered the Power Unit featured on the website, which will allow me to power up the electrical system without draining the battery. I figure I'm going to have learn all about the G3NX by sitting and playing and this will make that more functional.

  Oct 22, 2022     My kingdom for a screw!       Category: Avionics

It seems likely now that SteinAir forgot to include the assembling kit(s) for the backplates on at least the Garmin remote transponder. The backplate was tossed in a big but there should have been screws for the connectors. I searched everywhere and found none but at least I sorted out a bunch of hardware bags into the appropriate trays while waiting for the last camper rental of the season to return.

A person on Facebook is going to send me the screws so I can move forward. Had some communication with SteinAir but it was a Friday afternoon and I don't know what the resolution will be if any. What other kits need to be ordered? No clue.

  Oct 20, 2022     Installed transponder bracket - (.2 hour)       Category: Avionics

The little racheting screwdriver I ordered arrived so I rode the E-bike over to the hangar and it worked fine. It's the only way to tighten four screws that hold it into place. I assembled the 115-01879-00 GTR 200 Backplate and 37-pin d-sub connector labeled "COM" from the WH-00134-1 RV-12iS Garmin Common Harness (VFR) because it was already attached to the bracket.

I wanted to connect the d-sub connector labeled "XPNDR" and the BNC connector labeled "XPNDR" from the WH-00134-1 to the 011-02976-00 GTX 35R Backplate Assembly but I don't know what hardware to use. I'll consult the installation manual.

I connected the 9-pin d-sub and BNC connectors labeled "GPS" from the WH-00134-1 RV-12iS Garmin Common Harness (VFR) to the GPS 20A . And I connected the 15-pin d-sub connector labeled "BATT" from the WH-00134-1 to the IBBS-12V-3AH .

  Oct 17, 2022     Putting stuff back together and installing more avionics - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

I bought the optional CO2 detector a few months ago but the instructions made no sense as they referenced different installations but now that I've been installing some of the avionics, it made a little more sense. Basically it involved crimping on some DSub pins and mounting the unit. I finished installing the G20A and then added the backup battery. I ended up removing the battery harness from that big bushing and looping it around the frame I just installed. I like that better.

Still trying to figure out how to tighten those screws in the transponder bracket without being able to get a screwdriver in there.

I also remounted the ROTAX fuse box.

  Oct 16, 2022     Installed GEA 24 - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I mixed up a little ProSeal and put a thin coat on three holes where the GEA 24 Engine Indication System and F-00145 GEA24 Adapter Plate mount. This is a little strange because it mounts with four holes. Why doesn't the 4th hole get ProSeal? I wonder if it has something to do with grounding?

Anyway, after doing that I installed the four screw heads and tightened everything down. I had to remove the cooling fan assembly yet again.

Then I put ProSeal on all four of the screw heads on the forward side of the firewall.

I think I need to go back now and take a look at the CO2 detector installation as I think the instructions will make more sense to me now that I know what all the various Garmin numbers are. Might be a good time to go ahead and install it.

  Oct 15, 2022     Installed GTR 200 and GTX 35R racks       Category: Avionics

My order of hardware came in from Van's so I organized it and installed the racks, only to find I'd put the GTR 200 rack in upside down. Fixed that and put the GTX 35R racks but the screws are inaccessible to tighten. Will research.

  Oct 13, 2022     Resurfaced hangar ramp - (.1 hour)       Category: Workshop

Technically this has nothing to do with the RV-12iS but I thought you might be interested anyway. I haven't done any work on the plane as I'm waiting for parts from Van's. And when they came in, I was informed the company I hired was ready to resurface my hangar's ramp. I've been in a running debate about the poor condition of all of the ramps with the building partners but most of them don't want to spend any money. And why should they? They have no planes in their hangars; they just rent them out to people who put their planes in there that they never fly.

Anyway, the following narrative is from my report to the partners.

In August, I got an update from the company from their 2019 (I think) estimate they'd prepared for Jim and it was circulated to the partners on the East Side. I was the only one interested in having it done given the my RV-12iS project is moving right along now that the avionics package finally arrived after a one-year delay, and there is no way I'd ever start a plane on the east side what with all the stones and pebbles accumulating at the bottom of the ramps, and I'm getting too old to pull it over to the West Side (which has gotten pretty busy with the flight school and all.

They showed up with an army of trucks, equipment, and people precisely at 7 a.m. this morning. I would recommend these folks if/when you're ever interested in upgrading your properties too. They were good to work with and have now done a couple of projects on the field this year.

Here are some pictures. Hope you enjoy them.

This is the situation I was dealing with before. The asphalt was at the end of its useful life (especially for aircraft operations) and had opened up mall canyons where water had not only used the route to drain OUT, but also to get IN to the hangar. Everytime a plane taxied by, I'd get sandblasted inside the hangar.

Within the next year, potholes would be opening up. Not good. I'm not a big fan of spending money but the price is only going to go up and the problem wasn't going to go away.

Before

I'd already let Wipaire and a couple of neighbors know that Beechcraft would be relatively unusable for the morning. I probably should've told the flight school. I counted six dump trucks among the equipment and two bobcats plus the asphalt machine. We marked the area to be pulled up and replaced.

If you got the original estimate proposal, we were going to make the cut on the other side of a sizeable crack at Jim's hangar (to the right of mine in this photo) and past a developing pothole on the Pickett property because the estimator originally said if we didn't, the area between the new asphalt and that crack would immediately break up. Upon review today, I decided to go ahead and give Jim some free asphalt but felt the Pickett asphalt will not be damaged by having a newer, sexier asphalt neighbor.

Out with the old

I don't know how it is on the West Side but a sinkhole runs right down the building on the East Side, about 3 feet into each hangar. So that asphalt was gingerly removed. I was a little concerned with what we might find. It couldn't be utilities; electricity runs up top and there's no water, sewer, or gas lines. Interestingly, when I was taking on water during last year's spring melt, in addition to coming under the door, it was also bubbling up from the sinkhole crack, possibly from neighboring hangars; I don't know.

What did they find? Nothing, It was just a sinkhole. So they removed the asphalt and filled in the hole. I was a little nervous about this part of the operation because that's $100,000 worth of airplane parts still inside.

excavating

Once the old asphalt was gone, they brought in some more fill, leveled it, and then compacted it. By now there were about four different operations going on and these people were like a symphony; each playing a different part but cranking out a sum of the parts (OK, I mixed a metaphor there; just ignore it).

I wanted to be sure the grade was high inside the hangar (even higher than the existing asphalt) so that the water dripping off the roof wouldn't flow back inside. But I couldn't have it made too high because then it wouldn't meet the Pickett or Pederson asphalt quite right. My fingers are still crossed on this because the gap seal of the hangar door is also at the end of its useful life and the final grade was slightly high in the middle and slightly lower to the sides, to allow the water to run off in three directions. So there's a gap under the existing seal. I'll have to be sure to shovel thoroughly this winter because it may be awhile before I can get that door serviced (see below).

Grading

That's a big machine, right? And that machine is going right into my hangar and, yeah, that's a pristine set of RV-12iS wings sitting there. Like I said: nerve wracking.

Laying asphalt

As the machine operator and truck driver handled the laying of the asphalt; another start rolling it out. There were a lot of bodies moving and it looked like a few close calls; but ADS-B is not yet required of pavers.

Rolling

They had some asphalt left over so Wipaire asked them to throw some on three horrible potholes on his property and roll it out. I don't know how long it will last over there but he's got a lake when it rains now do anything helps. It still remains a mystery why Beechcraft and Aeronca weren't resurfaced when every other lane on the north side was resurfaced a few years ago and all the decision makers at the time are either in jail or working for MAC now.

Wipaire

And the final result

Inside out

The whole operation was wrapped up by 9:30

Looking north

And here's your Christmas present, Jim!

New walkway

Doug Beedon had installed a wooden "dam" across the front of the hangar when he owned it to keep water out (I fell pushing the RV-7A back in one November because it was slippery and I went down hard on the shoulder while trying to push over that dam and suddenly the arm was out of the socket; that wasn't fun), and I had to remove and dispose of that. So there's daylight now that I hope a new, beefier gap seal can resolve.

Gap seal

On that front, you may or may not know that Merle Marshall - the hangar door guy -- has retired and sold the business to his son, Jens Marshall and the company is now JFM Hangar. He can be reached at 612-503-6756 or jfmhangar@gmail.com and Marshall reports the man is super busy with hangar doors these days so, like everything else, some patience is required.

BTW, does anyone have a better idea for insulating their door besides Doug's method which consists of foam held in place by long runs of wooden strips bolted into the steel frame. In addition to being ugly, it's got to be adding hundreds of pounds to the door. Seem like there's a more elegant solution but I don't know what it is.

Stop by sometime and say "hello." I'll show you the RV-12iS project which is still stubbornly refusing to build itself.

  Oct 01, 2022     One step back - (2 hours)       Category: Avionics

I'm very late in the build so the number of parts, including hardware, is dwindling. In this session I found that the amount of hardware is dwindling too much.

I got started on building the GTR 200 AND GTX 35R RACKS (Section 42Nis page 12) but immediately ran into problems find the correct hardware. Where it goes, I don't know. But I didn't have enough AN507-632R8 crews or MS21042-06 nuts to complete the rack. So I jumped ahead to 43CiS_12iS, the dual G3X instructions and prepped up the flange doubler only to discover I have a shortage of MS21051-L06 nutplates. So I ordered one along with some additional hardware, bringing progress to a halt for now.

The order:
AN507C632R8 - Flat Head Screw (non structural)
6 $0.48
NAS1149FN632P Flat Washer
15 $0.60
MS21042-06 Metal Lock Nut
8 $2.80
AN525-10R8 Washer Head Screw
4 $0.80
NAS1149F0332P Flat Washer
20 $0.60
AN507C632R6 - Flat Head Screw (non structural)
8 $0.64
AN525-10R7 - Washer Head Screw
12 $2.40
MS21042-3 Metal Lock Nut

In writing this update, I have also realized that the dual G3X also requires two MS21051-L06 to be installed in the upper flange. Do I REALLY want to put yet another order in for just two stinking nutplates? I do not. Anybody got a couple?

  Sep 30, 2022     Building supports for COM radio - (1 hour)       Category: Avionics

I haven't been out to the hangar for a few days because we have had visitors at the house, and I also had to do a thorough cleaning of the camper when it came back from a rental in a disgusting state, but I took a few minutes to rivet in the forward support brackets for the COM radio, and also added the snap bushing for the wiring supports on the left and right side. Not sure all the wires I ran through them are supposed to go through them but we'll see.

Time to start moving some of the avionics out to the hangar.

  Sep 25, 2022     ProSealed rivet heads - (.5 hour) Category: Avionics

Per KIS Section 42NiS-11 Step 4, I mixed up some ProSeal and lightly covered the rivet and screw heads on the forward side of the firewall.

  Sep 23, 2022     Finished firewall drilling - (3 hours)       Category: Avionics

After a dentist appointment for some sensitive teeth, went back out to the hangar with a revised strategy for drilling - being even MORE careful to turn the drill slowly. Result: not much difference. Funny thing: the three or four brand new #30 drill bits still took about 15 minutes per hole. But the old Harbor Freight bits for the #11 match drill instruction took a little over a minute and made a decently round hole. In any event, the job got done.

Then I riveted the F-00055-L-1 & -R-1 GTR 200 Support Brackets and the F-00054-L & -R to the F-01202B-1 Panel Base and I was sure to place the manufactured rivet heads below the subpanel shelf, but then I realized I'd again made the mistake that *I* was the one manufacturing the head (no, Bob, that's the "shop head"), so I drilled them all out and installed them correctly.

I riveted the F-00074-L-1 & -R-1 Garmin Xpndr Firewall Brackets to the F-01201A-1 Firewall Top, placing the manufactured rivet heads on the forward side of the F-01201A-1. So I got it right that time.

Access is pretty limited in the front so I had to pull some wires back around the GPS antenna shelf, which caused the two split rubber grommets to fall out. Putting those back was a blast.

Next time I'm out at the hangar, I'll mix up some ProSeal to cover the rivet heads.

I wonder if it's OK to reinstall the fuse box.

  Sep 22, 2022     Firewall drilling - (1.5 hours)       Category: Avionics

Had to get to the hangar early for a camper rental dispatch so did some more work with the drill guides for the G3X. I took the top skin off for access, drilled out three rivets on the battery cage, attached a drill guide there and match drilled #30 holes.

Moving over to the F-00074-L-1 DRILL GUIDE, progress was much slower. I got one or two holes drilled - eventually -- but the work hardened and progress was non-existent. I got frustrated so gave up for the session.