Project: BuckRV-8   -  
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Builder Name:Buck Wyndham   -  
Project:   Vans - RV-8   -   VIEW REPORTS
Total Hours:3907.05
Start/Last Date:Jan 08, 2002 - No Finish Date
Engine:AeroSport Power IO-375-M1S
Propeller:Whirlwind 330-3B/72H-73 3-blade CS
Panel:G3X, G5, GTN650, GTR20, GTX45R, GMA245, GMC507
 
Friendly URL: https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=BuckRV-8

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Mar 17, 2024     VS wiring tube removal - (.5 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
With the tube now gone, I set about fixing the 5/8" hole in the forward end of the VS top rib.

I cut a piece of windows screen to fit the hole, and bonded it in place with JB Weld. Once it sets up, I'll apply a layer of gray silicone caulk over the area and smooth it with my finger. Then I'll put the cap back in place once the painting is finished. You'll never know it's there, it will be nice and durable, and will keep moisture out of the vertical stabilizer.


 
Mar 16, 2024     VS wiring tube removal - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
More than 10 years ago, I decided to install a bullet camera at the top of the vertical stabilizer -- part of a multi-camera video system I was going to install. Since the VS was already closed up and riveted at that point, I had to figure out to run the camera wire (!) from the top of the tail down into the fuselage. I'd managed to insert a 1/4" ID thick plastic tube down into the leading edge, through the rib holes. Then, I'd bonded it at the top with flox, and at the bottom with E-6000 glue. It held pretty well at each end, but it had no support in the middle. At the time, I didn't give it much thought, and in the last decade, I'd completely forgotten about it. In fact, I'd long ago removed the camera wire after GoPro cameras became more popular and easier to use than hard-wired cameras.

The plastic tube's presence reemerged last week when my friend Jim and I were towing the airplane down the taxiway to the paint shop. I heard and felt a light "tapping" noise coming from inside the VS as the plane went over the cracks. Later that evening, after thinking about it, I figured out what it probably was -- the plastic wiring tube, slapping the inside of the skin. I was immediately ashamed of this halfass installation from the past, and decided to try to remedy it by removing the tube.

Today, I took a bin full of tools over to the paint shop and began work. I used a Dremel tool with various ball-end and cylindrical grinding tools to remove the flox from around (and in) the upper end of the tube, which went pretty well. Next, I tried pulling the tube upwards with a pair of needle-nose pliers, but the tube only stretched. I inserted a curved dental took under the lip of the VS and discovered that I could actually push inward on the bottom end of the tube, but not enough to get it to release. Finally Jim suggested using a heat gun to soften the glue and the tube, and this worked really well. The tube broke free and came out after a few minutes of heating.

Now I'll have to fill the hole with caulk or JB-Weld to prevent moisture from getting inside the VS.

Glad we got rid of that problem! It would have been really annoying.


 
Mar 08, 2024     Final fill/sand on R elevator - (0.75 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
I couldn't resist doing one more minor round of filling and sanding on the tip of the R elevator. (I suppose I could keep this up for the rest of my days, but I'll have to stop tomorrow when it goes into the paint shop.)


 
Mar 03, 2024     Elevator final sanding and priming - (2.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
At long last, I am done fooling around with the end caps on the elevators. I sanded the final spots of filler (I think I'm actually getting good at this stuff), and shot some primer on them. Done!


 
Mar 02, 2024     Elevator filling and sanding - (0.6 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Did some more sanding and filling on the R elevator.


 
Mar 01, 2024     Elevator sanding; Access plate attachment; Tailcone prime - (2.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Continued filling and sanding on the R elevator.
2. Ran a tap through the small ClickBond nutplates that attach the empennage fairings and tail access plates. Attached both access plates.
3. Used a ball-end Dremel bit to smooth out the small areas of flox filler I'd added long ago in the aftmost tail bulkhead. Cleaned and masked the area, then shot some primer on it.


 
Feb 29, 2024     Elevator seam filling and sanding - (2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Spent another couple of hours getting VERY critical with a flashlight and a small sanding block, looking at the elevators from every angle to eliminate irregularities. I ended up adding a 6" long x 2" wide patch of filler on the topside of the R elevator, which will be block-sanded tomorrow to improve the profile.


 
Feb 28, 2024     Elevator and fairing sanding/filing; Rudder final prep - (4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Did some more minor filling and sanding on the elevators.
2. Did more filling and sanding on the upper empennage fairing.
3. Removed all the protective plastic from the rudder (in place since 2002!). Cleaned off the manufacturer's ink stamps from the skin.
4. I noticed a small ding in the rudder skin. This may have happened in any number of ways, and might have happened years or even decades ago. In any case, l prepped and filled it, then later sanded it and primed it with self-etching primer. The rudder is now 100% ready to go to paint.


 
Feb 27, 2024     Elevator caps -- final sanding; Tailwheel chain attach points - (3.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Final-sanded and primed the elevator cap seams. I think they're now VERY close to being done.
2. Drilled the two #12 holes in the rudder horn for the tailwheel chain attachments.


 
Feb 26, 2024     Elevator sanding and filling; Empennage fairing fitting - (3.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and filling the elevator cap intersections.
2. Final sanded the inside of the upper empennage fairing, but one of the ClickBond nutplates popped off. I'll have to think about ways to remedy this.


 
Feb 25, 2024     Rudder & elevators end cap filler; Empennage fairings - (6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and shaped the flox/micro filler on the forward sides of the elevator end caps, rounding the edges to match the profile of the aluminum. This actually came out really nice, and it looks like very little filler should be required.
2. Sanded yesterday's filler on the end cap seams, and applied a light coat of filler primer to everything to check the progress.
3. Did one more round of minor filler on the seams.
4. Sanded the filler on the lower empennage fairings. Added a bit more filler here and there.
5. Used very fine sandpaper to sand the upper empennage fairing. Countersunk the attach holes for #6 finish washers. Did one more light coat of sanding primer. After inspecting it, I think I'm going to call the upper fairing complete!


 
Feb 24, 2024     Elevator & rudder filler; Empennage lower fairing filler - (3.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Positioned the elevators in a vertical position. Mixed up a thick flox/micro/cabosil mixture and applied it to the forward ends of the elevator caps. As it began to cure, I shaped it and pressed it firmly to try to eliminate any air pockets.
2. Sanded yesterday's filler on the elevators and rudder, and filled areas that needed it.
3. Sanded and feathered yesterday's filler on the lower empennage fairings, and added some filler to a few new spots that popped up.


 
Feb 23, 2024     Lower empennage fairing filler; Elevator & rudder filler - (1.7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Added filler to lower empennage fairing.
2. Sanded L elevator cap and added filler to both elevators and the rudder.


 
Feb 20, 2024     Empennage fairings; Rudder cable fairleads; Access cover nutplates - (4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Spent a considerable amount of time sanding and priming the three empennage fairings to get them in decent shape.
2. Installed the aftermarket aluminum fairleads where the rudder cables come out of the aft fuselage.
3. Installed the final four #6 ClickBond nutplates in the aft fuselage. These are the ones that will secure the upper screws of my custom aft fuselage access covers. (As has happened before, two of them were defective and the stems pulled out before the nutplate was seated. I ended up with a grand total of ONE spare after today.)


 
Feb 20, 2024     Rudder & elevator seams - (4.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded both elevators seams some more. I got the L elevator into some semblance of shape, and got the R elevator through several iterations of primer & sanding to check for irregularities and divots.
2. Sanded and primed the rudder a couple of times to perfect its look. It's getting close to acceptable.


 
Feb 19, 2024     Elevator and rudder seam fill; Empennage fairings - (6.7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Spent most of the day sanding and filling the seams on the rudder and elevators. I used a bit of spot filler that ended up being a lot quicker drying and was slightly easier to sand than the filler I've been using. I also used an orbital palm sander to knock down the first bit of each line of flox/micro, which sped things up quite a bit.

2. Sanded yesterday's filler on the empennage fairings, and added some more filler.

3. Clecoed the lower fairings into place and drilled new aft side holes for them. This will allow me to tap the attach holes instead of installing nutplates. Opened up all the fairing holes to #27 for screws. Filled the unused hole in each fairing.

3. Cleaned and prepped the six locations for the ClickBond nutplates. Installed all six nutplates--two in the VS, two in the upper skins of the HS, and two in the lower skins of the HS.


 
Feb 18, 2024     Elevator and rudder seam filling - (5.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
For a long time, I preferred to have natural seams between the elevator/rudder skins and their fiberglass fairings. After looking at the elevators and rudder with a critical eye, I decided that there's just too much waviness and seam inconsistency for me. (The 4th photo below--a "before shot"--shows the issue. It's almost impossible to avoid seam inconsistencies because of the overlapping aluminum skins along the sides of the caps.) So today, I made a lot more work for myself by filling the seams:

1. Sanded the end caps and skins with a 60-grit hard block.
2. Cleaned and prepped the areas.
3. Applied a moderately thick mix of flox/micro to the seams and skin overlap areas at the tips. Used a credit card to taper it down into a somewhat feathered edge, for ease of sanding tomorrow.

I'm sure this will make the control surfaces look great, but I hope I won't think of this as a mistake years from now. I'm hoping they aren't susceptible to cracking. (I am going to leave the small seams on the HS and VS caps, because those look great.)


 
Feb 17, 2024     Elevator caps - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and cleaned the flanges of the elevator caps, and the corresponding insides of the aluminum skins.
2. Mixed up a batch of resin/flox and applied it to the mating surfaces of the caps and elevators. (This should help prevent the typical waviness you sometimes see between rivets on these types of fiberglass flight control caps.)
3. Clecoed the caps onto the elevators.
4. Rived the caps in place. Clamped the elevator skins in certain locations to optimize the fit of the caps.
5. Filled the rivet heads with SuperFil filler.


 
Feb 16, 2024     Sanding and filling empennage fairing - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded yesterday's filler.
2. Prepped the fairing and applied three coats of UV SmoothPrime filler.


 
Feb 15, 2024     Elevator caps and skin details - (4.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the foam filler blocks in the ends of the caps. Sanded the filler at the interior skin seam on the elevators.
2. Used a set of smooth-jaw pliers to add a slight pre-bend to the outboard ends of the elevators skins. This will help the caps fit better.
3. Fitted the caps to the elevators and clecoed them in place to check their fit.
4. Sanded the trim tab filler and several other areas of filler on the elevators.
5. After observing the way the curved elevator leading edges met in several spots, I decided to remedy them by adding four rivets -- two on each elevator. This improved the way the skins joined immensely.
6. Filed the openings in the L elevator skin and access cover where the elevator trim tab actuator arm passes through, to give it a bit more clearance.


 
Feb 14, 2024     Empennage fairing -- filler - (0.2 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Added some more filler to the empennage fairing in a few areas.


 
Feb 14, 2024     Elevator counterweights and tip fairings - (2.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Time to get back to completing the elevators! I haven't worked on them in many months.

1. Tightened the counterweight attach hardware in both elevators. (I removed the added counterweight washers from the left elevator, since I'm going to balance the elevators when they are bolted together on the airplane.)
2. Added a bit of filler at the inside overlap between the elevators skins. I think this will allow the seam in the elevator tips to look better once the tips are riveted in place.
3. Used thick flox/micro to bond the foam end pieces in the front ends of the elevator tips. As with the rudder and horizontal stabilizer, I recessed the foam about 1/16" to make room for the sandable filler I'm going to add next.


 
Feb 11, 2024     Empennage fairing -- block sanding - (0.5 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Block-sanded yesterday's filler.


 
Feb 10, 2024     Empennage fairing -- sanding and filling - (1.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded yesterday's "seam-correction."
2. I decided that my upper empennage fairing has a few too many small bumps that cannot been seen visually, but can be felt with fingertips. I block-sanded the sides of the fairing, revealing a few of the waves, then applied filler to the largest of the areas.


 
Feb 09, 2024     Empennage fairing -- edge improvement - (0.7 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. With a bit of remaining flox mixture from my wheel pant work, I built up a new edge on the front right edge of the fairing. Once it's sanded, the seam will be a little tighter, matching the one on the left side.
2. Brushed on a second thin layer of resin to the inside surface of the fairing to protect the fuselage paint.


 
Jan 25, 2024     Elevator bolt inspection ports (L and R) - (3.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Completed fabrication of the elevator bolt inspection ports:

1. Cut out the viewing hole in the right inspection cover. Filed and sanded it smooth.
2. Attached both covers in turn and traced around the inside perimeter of the fuselage openings. Removed the covers and used these marks to measure for the plastic inspection windows
3. Cut out the plastic for the windows (In the spirit of experimental aviation, I decide to test two different materials for these windows to see which one holds up better in actual use. The left one will be made of 0.093" polycarbonate sheet, which is advertised as "virtually unbreakable, UV protected, and severe weather resistant." The right one will be made of 0.080" acrylic sheet, which is advertised as "10 times stronger than glass, non-yellowing, lightweight, and shatter-resistant." We'll see which one works best in the years ahead.)
4. Measured and marked the covers for the four window attach holes. Drilled the holes. Taped the plastic windows onto them and match-drilled the holes.
5. Removed the windows, and deburred and countersunk them.
6. Deburred and dimpled the covers, including the top two attach holes on each.
7. Drilled out and countersunk the two attach cover plate holes in the fuselage. (These will get Clickbond nutplates shortly.)
8. Sanded and cleaned the two cover plates, then primed them.

The windows have been set aside, and will be screwed to the cover plates after the fuselage is painted.


 
Jan 21, 2024     Elevator bolt inspection port (L) - (0.9 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Cut out the left elevator bolt inspection port in the custom access panel. Filed and sanded the edge smooth.


 
Jan 05, 2024     VS cap - gap filing - (0.5 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Took off the VS cap and used some small files to improve the look of the gap above the ILS antenna puck, on the right side.
2. Improved the overall fit of the cap by hand-bending the VS skin a bit where it meets the cap.
3. Replaced the cap.


 
Dec 06, 2023     Empennage fairing sanding and detail work - (2.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Detail-sanded the two lower horizontal stabilizer fairings.
2. Shot a thick coat of primer on the two fairings so I can further identify areas that need work.
3. Did some detail shaping of the edges of the upper horizontal stabilizer fairing. Specifically, I made the forward curve on the left side match the one on the right.
4. Removed all the clear packing tape from the aft fuselage that was protecting it during the fairing fabrication process.


 
Nov 21, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers - (3.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Clecoed all three tail fairings in place.
2. Filed and sanded the mating edges of the upper and lower fairings so they match. This was an extremely iterative process, and I'll bet I took the lower fairings off and put them back on at least 3 dozen times.
3. Added another attach hole at the forward upper edge of each lower fairing, to improve the fit.
4. Used a cylindrical sanding block to file the interface of the two fairings so they match in thickness.
5. Marked and trimmed the forward edges of the upper and lower fairings so they match.
6. Trimmed the aft edges of the lower fairings to they match the edge of the HS skins,
7. Sanded the outside faces of the lower fairings.
8. Sanded all rough areas on the inside faces.
9. Cleaned and prepped the fairings, then brushed them with two coats of SmoothPrime.


 
Nov 20, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers - (4.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Popped the two fairings off the airplane and inspected them. They both look really great.
2. Did an initial trim of the fairings, just to get rid of the razor-sharp protrusions on the edges.
3. Removed the aluminum tape, modeling clay, and packing tape from the fuselage and tail. Cleaned off as many of the extraneous resin drips as I could.
4. Clecoed the top empennage fairing in place, then established a trim line for the lower fairings on the fuselage and tail, using thin-line striping tape.
5. Carefully laid down 7/8" masking tape over top of the striping tape, with the desired cut edges on the "inside" of the tape outlines.
6. Marked and trimmed the fairings just enough so the blue 7/8" tape protruded from under the edges of the fairings.
7. Established the three locations in each fairing where the attach screws will be.
8. Taped the fairings in position, then drilled the three screw holes through each fairing and into the fuselage and/or HS. Put a cleco in each hole.
9. With the fairings in place, I laid down another line of 7/8" masking tape over the existing line, establishing the desired cut lines on the fairing.
10. Used a fine-line Sharpie to trace along the edge of the tape, onto the fairings.
11. Removed the clecoes, tape and fairings. Trimmed and block-sanded the fairings very close to the lines.
12. Sanded the inside and outside surfaces of the fairings.
13. Cleaned the fairings, then used Super-Fil filler to perfect their outer surfaces.

I may or may not decide to add two layups of carbon fiber to the fairings, just so I can use flat screws and finish washers to attach them.


 
Nov 19, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers (2nd edition) - (4.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
I deep-sixed both of my previous fairings for several reasons, so today I simply started over, with a clear idea of how to improve on my previous attempts.

1. Waxed both molds.
2. Marked the desired coverage on the fuselage with masking tape.
3. Cut three plies of BID fiberglass. Cut them all to the same size, 26" x 5".
4. Used the "poor-man's pre-preg" method to make a single layup for the left side.
5. Applied the layup to the left mold, removed the top layer of plastic, and stippled the layup into place. Trimmed off the excess cloth at the aft end.
6. Added small layups at the front end, where the fairing wraps up around the horizontal stabilizer.
7. Added pieces of peel ply and brushed/stippled them into place. Used masking tape to hold several strips in place.
8. Repeated steps 3-7 for the right fairing.

These fairings already look MUCH better than the previous ones, and I'm excited to see how they turn out.


 
Nov 17, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers - (2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. After inspecting the fairings I previously made, I have decided to remake both of them, using a slightly modified mold and slightly different procedures.
2. Removed the left mold and built another one.
3. Covered the new mold with aluminum tape.


 
Nov 16, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers - (3.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Used an old plastic hotel key and several plastic scraping tools to pop the fairing layups off the airplane.
2. Did a rough trim of the fairings with Wiss snips.
3. Marked and trimmed the fairings closer to their final shapes, then test-fit them on the airplane.
4. I decided that both the fairings needed at least one more layer of glass on each side. Prepped the fairings, cut new cloth and mixed up more resin, then applied a new layup to the outsides. (Once this cures, I'll do the same on the insides.)
5. Applied peel ply to both fairings, and perched each of them on a pair of painter's pyramids to cure overnight.


 
Nov 15, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers - (2.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Trimmed the edges of last night's layups.
2. Prepped and applied another layup on each side of the tail.
3. Applied peel ply to each fairing.


 
Nov 14, 2023     Fairings under horizontal stabilizers - (2.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Waxed the clay-and aluminum tape fairing mold under each horizontal stab.
2. Cut 4"x24" strips of BID Fiberglass and made some 2-layer poor-man's pre-preg sandwiches.
3. Applied the layups, then dabbed them into place with a stipple brush and some resin.


 
Nov 06, 2023     Sanded rivet fillers - (0.75 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and feathered two areas of rivet filler on the left elevator.
2. Primed both areas.


 
Oct 17, 2023     L elevator rivet filler - (0.2 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Taped off and began sanding the blind rivet filler strip on the top side of the L elevator, adjacent to the trim tab.


 
Sep 04, 2023     Rudder top and bottom fairing seam work - (1.75 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Filed the seams along the rudder top fairing, so they are consistent.
2. Marked the rudder bottom fairing with tape to establish where I wanted to sand the edges (again, to make the seams look consistent.)
3. Removed the bottom fairing and sanded the edges with a long sanding board. Reattached the fairing with temporary screws.


 
Jun 09, 2023     HS bottom fairings - (1.85 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Taped the desired outside perimeter of the fairings with thin-line tape.
2, Applied the aluminum tape under the left HS.


 
Jun 06, 2023     HS bottom fairings - (1.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Finished applying mold clay to the left and right sides, under the horizontal stabilizer.
2. Shaped the clay to get a nice curved intersection.


 
Jun 05, 2023     HS bottom fairing - (1 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Began the fabrication of the HS bottom fairing by taping the HS and sides of the fuselage with clear packing tape.
2. Began applying molding clay to the forward right side intersection of the HS and fuselage.


 
Apr 28, 2023     Empennage fairing - (2.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the filler on the fairing.
2. Shot primer on the fairing. It is now pretty close to where I want it. Any further remaining improvements will probably be made by the painter.


 
Apr 26, 2023     Empennage fairing - (1 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Applied one final batch of filler to the empennage fairing to hide some of the remaining weave.


 
Apr 15, 2023     Empennage fairing and attach holes - (1.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and primed the empennage fairing.
2. Drilled the attach holes in the fuselage up to #28, to accommodate the #6 screws that will attach the fairing.


 
Apr 14, 2023     VS cap; Empennage fairing - (1.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Finished sanding the VS cap and attached it to the VS.
2. Sanded the empennage fairing. Put on another coat of UV SmoothPrime filler.


 
Apr 13, 2023     Empennage Fairing - (0.7 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the fairing.
2. Applied SuperFil filler to various areas of the fairing.


 
Apr 09, 2023     VS cap; Empennage fairing - (2.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and filed the new profile on the front of the vertical stabilizer cap. Shot primer on it to check for divots.
2. Prepped and primed the empennage fairing with two coats of UV SmoothPrime filler, with plenty of sanding in between coats..


 
Apr 03, 2023     VS cap; Empennage fairing - (2.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded last night's re-profile of the vertical stabilizer cap. Added some final filler to a few minor pinholes to finish it off.
2. Sanded and feathered yesterday's filler on the empennage fairing.
3. Marked and trimmed the tail access cover to improve its fit against the back end of the fairing.
4, Cleaned the fairing and shot a layer of primer on it -- mostly just to verify the fairing's profile and check for any remaining waviness. After this dries, I will shoot two layers of pinhole filler on it.


 
Apr 02, 2023     VS cap; Empennage fairing - (1 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the micro on the leading edge of the VS cap, then added some SuperFil to blend it into the surrounding cap.
2. Added SuperFil to some slightly low spots and divots on the empennage fairing.


 
Apr 01, 2023     Empennage fairing; VS cap - (1.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the inside surfaces of the empennage fairing, and also sanded and filed the aft filler cap so it fit the fuselage nicely.
2. Mixed up some micro and filled the aft end of the cap so it will be flush with the fairing once it is sanded down.
3. Roughed up the leading edge of the VS cap, and applied a layer of the remaining micro to it. This will be sanded down to match the contour where the cap meets the VS.


 
Mar 29, 2023     Empennage fairing - (0.6 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the fairing end plugs, and fit the fairing onto the airplane. It fits well. There are still some small ripples I might have to take care of on the right side, and some slight sanding required at the top of the left plug.
2. Applied some straight resin to the areas of the foam plugs that were covered by the clamps, and also ran a strip of resin along the interface surface of the fairing and the fuselage, just for some wear-protection.


 
Mar 28, 2023     Empennage fairing - (3.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the lightweight filler from yesterday. It worked much better than the microballoons.
2. Located and marked the three attach locations on each side of the fairing.
3. Tightly taped the fairing in place, then drilled and clecoed the fairing in place. Checked the fit of the fairing, and pronounced it most excellent.
4. Trimmed the foam fairing caps I'd fabricated two days ago, marked where they were to be attached, then bonded them to the insides of the fairing using a flox/cabosil mixture. Clamped them in place about 1/16" from the aft end of the fairing, then brushed on some more of the resin mixture to the foam to give it strength and seal it.


 
Mar 27, 2023     Empennage fairing - (2.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded last night's filler. I got most of it done to my satisfaction, but because of the way the mico sands on the carbon fiber, I decided to change filler types, substituting lightweight two-part Super-Fil.
2. Mixed and applied Super-Fil to several remaining areas of the fairing.


 
Mar 26, 2023     Empennage fairing - (3.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Finished sanding the edges of the new carbon fiber layups to match the underlying layers.
2. Sanded the faces of the fairing to get them as smooth as I could.
3. Taped the fairing in place and carefully marked and trimmed the aft edges. I left enough room for the control access cover to almost butt up against the fairing.
4. Trimmed the edges of the aluminum control cover to match the carbon fiber fairing.
5. Beveled the front lower edge of the fairing some more, to decrease its thickness.
6. Planned the locations of the attach screws. There will be one screw on each side at the front of the top fairing, and two on each side at the back. The big challenge will be installing a Click Bond nutplate inside the fuselage at the two forward locations. I may have to use a nutsert if I can't get it done any other way.
7. Slightly repositioned the ELT antenna attach point in the aft fuselage. Moved the free end of the antenna so it crosses over from left to right inside the void. This will give a bit more room for the fairing caps.
8. Cut out two aft fairing caps from 3/4" Divinycell foam and fitted them to the inside radius of the aft end of the fairing. These will be bonded in there shortly.
9. Filled the aft upper corner of the fairing on the left side with resin, then clamped it overnight. (This is a small area that hadn't bonded correctly the first time.)
10. Mixed some micro and cabosil to the remaining resin, and painted it onto the fairing in several locations that had small imperfections. After these areas are sanded again, I think this will give the surfaces of the fairing a good chance of being completely smoothed out when I apply the UV SmoothPrime filler later.


 
Mar 23, 2023     Empennage fairing - (0.9 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Removed the peel ply.
2. Rough-trimmed the fairing with snips.
3. Rough-sanded the edges of the fairing so the edge of the new layers somewhat match the underlying fairing. (Still more of this to do...)
4. Trimmed some more of the lower-front edge (where it meets the top of the fuselage) and the top-front edge (where it meets the VS). Beveled the lower-front edge so it makes a nicer transition.

Overall, I think this fairing will work very nicely. The hardest part will be getting it really smooth.


 
Mar 22, 2023     Empennage fairing - (1.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the microballoon filler I applied yesterday to level some slightly inconsistent areas of the fairing.
2. Laid up two more layers of carbon fiber on the fairing, then applied peel ply.


 
Mar 21, 2023     Empennage fairing - (1 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Block-sanded the straight edges of the fairing.
2. Decided to fill some of the slightly low spots on the fairing before the next two plies of carbon fiber are laid up. Mixed up some thick micro and applied it in various locations on the fairing.
3. While that began curing, I traced out two of each of the three carbon fiber shapes, then cut them out.


 
Mar 16, 2023     Empennage fairing #2 - (4.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Popped the new fairing off the fuselage. It looks 100% better than the first one! Rough-trimmed it with a pair of snips.
2. Laid up 3/4" wide yellow tape along the previously-marked fairing edge line on the airplane.
3. Iteratively trimmed the fairing until about half of the yellow tape showed underneath.
4. With the fairing in place, I laid a new tape line directly over the first line, marking the trim edge on the fairing. Marked it with a silver Sharpie marker.
5. Trimmed to this final line with snips.
6. Removed all the clay, aluminum tape, packing tape, and filler blocks from the fuselage and tail. Cleaned everything up.
7. Fit the new fairing and pronounced it very nice. (There are some minor ripples that I'll be able to smooth out before the next layers of carbon fiber are applied.) Overall, re-doing the fairing was a good idea.


 
Mar 12, 2023     Empennage fairing #2 - (6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Began fabricating a new empennage fairing:

1. Continued to smooth the clay mold. I got it as close to perfect as I could get, and I'm hoping the aluminum tape overlay will compensate for any minor irregularities that might be remaining.
2. Cut out the three fiberglass pieces, the three carbon fiber pieces, and the multiple peel ply pieces I'd need.
3. Applied aluminum tape to the mold.
4. Waxed the mold.
5. With the generous help of my friend Tim, we made some "poor-man's pre-preg" sandwiches inside plastic sheeting, then laid up the various layers. (That'll teach him to visit me in my hangar in the evening!)
6. Applied peel ply and stippled it in place.

* * * * *

So far, I am much happier with this fairing than I was with the first one. It seems like it has a better overall shape and FAR fewer surface variations.


 
Mar 11, 2023     Empennage fairing - (5.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Peeled off the peel-ply from the fairing.
2. Used a thin steel ruler to loosen the fairing, then popped it off the fuselage.
3. Rough-trimmed the fairing with a pair of snips.
4. After carefully and critically examining the fairing, I've decided that, while it fits the airplane perfectly, it has a few profile inconsistencies that give some sections of it a slightly “lumpy” appearance. It's possible that I could sand these lumps and hide them under the next two layers of carbon fiber, but I think it would be tough to do it right. The lumps appear to be a side-effect of the “carved foam mold” technique I used, so I've decided to re-do the fairing layups using molding clay. This will allow me to create an absolutely perfect mold with no gaps, voids, or inconsistencies.
5. Removed the aluminum tape and foam mold.
6. Re-taped a few areas of the fuselage.
7. Sculpted a new clay mold on the fuselage. It still needs some smoothing, but it already looks better than the old foam mold.


 
Mar 10, 2023     Empennage fairing - (5.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Created paper templates, one for each side of the empennage fairing, and another for the wrap-around front section.
2. Used the templates to mark and cut out pieces of BID fiberglass and carbon fiber.
3. Also cut out lots of various peel-ply pieces to cover the entire fairing area.
4. Waxed the aluminum taped mold surfaces.
5. Did tabletop wet layups of fiberglass cloth. Carried the wet layups to the airplane and laid them in place, each in turn. Adjusted and stippled them in place with chip brushes and plastic squeegees. Made slits along the edges to get the layups to lay down well.
6. Laid the dry carbon-fiber layers onto the wet fiberglass, and pressed it into place. Poured resin over the fiberglass and worked it into the cloth with a squeegee and brush. Squeegeed as much of the resin out as possible.
7. Applied peel-ply to the entire fairing. Pressed each piece in place and squeegeed everything.

The two plies will dry for 24 hours, then I'll remove the fairing, trim it, and prepare it for at least two more layers of carbon fiber.


 
Mar 06, 2023     Empennage fairing - taping mold - (1.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Taped the fairing mold with aluminum tape.


 
Mar 05, 2023     VS cap (done); Empennage fairing mold - (3.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded yesterday's micro/flox addition to the bottom of the VS cap plug. Primed it and filled pinholes, then primed it again.
2. Partially removed the VOR/ILS antenna so that I could file 1/8" off the aft part of the skin notch where the antenna puck pokes through. This got everything visually lined up better.
3. Installed the VS cap with six stainless #8 screws. I think it came out pretty well, considering my self-imposed requirement that it be removable in order to service or replace the tail antenna in the future. It was a lot of work--which I could have avoided entirely by putting the antenna somewhere else, back in 2007.)

4. Sawed off yesterday's filler on the foam mold for the empennage fairing.
5. Sanded and filed the mold into what I hope is pretty close to the final shape.


 
Mar 04, 2023     VS plug; Rudder rivet filling; Empennage fairing mold - (4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. After fitting the VS cap in place, I decided to make one final revision to its plug that will make it fit better alongside the VS plug. This involves adding about 3/32" of thick micro/flox/cabosil to the bottom of the plug (denoted by the blue line in the first photo below). After this cures, I will sand it to the blue line and the VS cap should be ready to mount.

2. Spent some time sanding, priming, re-sanding and re-priming the filled rivets in the rudder. [NO PHOTO].

3. Decided that I needed to remove even more material from the empennage fairing mold, in order to allow the layups to lay completely flush with the fuselage at the tape line. As more of the foam is sanded away, I'm adding bits of filler foam (visible in photos 2&3 below) to the voids that are being opened up in the mold.


 
Mar 03, 2023     VS cap plug; Empennage fairing mold - (3.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Made the last tweaks to the VS cap. Sanded yesterday's microballoon filler, then added some resin to the area of the foam plug that was previously sanded away so it would fit snugly onto the VS. This resin layer will seal the foam and hopefully help prevent moisture from getting in.

2. Sanded both sides of the empennage fairing mold foam. I took off enough to reveal the 1/8" tape line that marks where the edge of the fairing will be. Next, I'll do the final shaping of the mold, and it will be ready to tape and wax.


 
Mar 02, 2023     VS plug; VS tip plug; Empennage fairing mold - (4.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the VS plug, then primed it. Filled a couple of small, remaining pinholes. It's looking good.
2. Prepped the VS cap so it fits the skin better. Cleaned and prepped the plug, then clamped it in a vertical position. Applied a thick micro/cabosil mix and leveled it
3. Used a bend saw blade and a rough body file ("cheese grater" style) to begin shaping the foam that will become the mold for the empennage fairing. I managed to get the left side about 75% done, but it's a pretty slow, messy job.


 
Mar 01, 2023     Empennage fairing molds; VS plug - (4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Marked 5/8" out from the fuselage skin and the same distance up from the HS skin, and marked this with a Sharpie. I then ran some 1/8" fine-line tape along this line to represent where the future edge of the fairing will be. Made a mark on the fuselage 1" forward to the HS leading edge, then another 3" up on the leading edge of the VS. Connected these two points with a nice gentle freehand tape curve.
2. Finished taping the VS/HS junction area with clear packing tape.
3. Applied one layer of white Loctite sealing foam across the taped area. Waited three hours, then applied a second layer. Tomorrow, I'll start carving the foam into a nice fairing shape, and it will be the base for my fiberglass and carbon fiber layups.

4. Sanded the micro on the VS plug, then applied some filler micro to some low spots.


 
Feb 28, 2023     VS caps; Elevator caps; Empennage fairing - (3.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Applied micro to the foam plug on top of the VS.
2. Sanded yesterday's application of micro to the blind attach rivets adjacent to the elevator caps.
3. Began preparing to make the empennage fairings. Taped off the forward bays of the VS with clear packing tape. Taped off the lower fuselage area with Gorilla tape, then taped in some foam blocks to fill much of the remaining area.


 
Feb 27, 2023     VS cap; Rudder top cap; Elevators - (2.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Aggressively sanded all the blind rivets on the various tail surfaces, cleaned them, then applied a thin layer of micro over the rivets. I'm hoping this will help me create a better solution for hiding the filled rivets.
2. Cut a plug of 3/4" Divinycell foam and bonded it into the top of the VS.
3. Applied a layer of clear resin to the VS cap plug.


 
Feb 26, 2023     VS cap - (3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Placed, clamped, drilled, and clecoed the VS cap in place.
2. Removed the cap. Drilled the cap for nutplates and countersunk all holes.
3. Installed six nutplates in the cap.
4. Dimpled the VS skin.
5. Cut out a cap filler from 3/4" divinycell foam.
6. Floxed the foam into the end of the cap, leaving a 1/6" lip. This will leave room for the sandable micro mixture that will go on next. Used some of the flox to fill the wiring tube I installed years ago (and never used) in the leading edge of the VS.


 
Feb 25, 2023     Rudder and VS caps; Elevator trim servo wiring revision - (3.7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the various filler spots, especially at the top of the rudder. More filling and sanding will be required here.
2. Attached the rudder and inserted the VS cap to check the alignment of it against the rudder cap. It looks like the heights of the caps will match perfectly. I did note that the widths are slightly different as the caps go upward, which is curious because the bases of the caps are identical in width. I'm not going to worry about it, because I can't really do anything about it, and I doubt it will be too noticeable anyway.

3. For over a week I have been looking at the wire connectors I used for the elevator trim servo, and I didn't like them. In general, I try to avoid soldered connections in an airplane, but I had used the solder-type connectors in this case because a). I had them on hand, and b). they were the only ones I could find that world definitely fit through the rubber grommet in the elevator spar. But I recently found a nice 4-pin connector set that not only locks with a big CLICK, but is also pre-wired! It means another set of crimped butt-splices in the system, but I think it's worth it. I cut off the old connectors and installed the new connectors (3 wires in one connector and 2 in the other) to the servo. The wire in the horizontal stabilizer will receive the other halves of the connectors soon.


 
Feb 24, 2023     Elevator, rudder, VS and HS tips - (3.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Spent a few hours improving the seams and fit of the various fiberglass tips, trying to get these pieces over the hump from one level of quality to the next.

1. Sanded the filled rivets on the elevators, and added filler to the front of the rudder horn to bring it up to the level of the nearby skin.
2. Filled a couple of remaining pinholes on the rudder bottom cap.
3. Sanded the filler on the leading edge of the VS cap.
4. Sanded the filled rivets on the HS caps.
5. Drilled the attach rivet holes on the right elevator cap from #40 to #30.


 
Feb 23, 2023     Rudder top and bottom caps; VS cap - (3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Filed last night's filler along the bottom edges of the rudder skin. All the imperfections seem to be gone!
2. Sanded the "filler-shims" on the inside of the bottom cap until the cap laid flat against the rudder skin.
3. Fitted the bottom cap to verify the fit. I'm pretty happy with everything, except for where one of the finish washers sticks out a little past the cap. I might have to use a smaller washer there. (The bottom cap is now mostly complete, but I will wait to install it until after painting).
4. Countersunk the attach holes in the top cap. Dimpled the rudder skin holes.
5. Test-fit the top rudder cap, and noticed that there are several locations where the rudder skin bows out a little bit, even when everything's clecoed together. I decided that the sides of the cap were being pressed inwards just a bit because of its natural shape, and I decided to make a bulkhead inside it -- something that will push it outward just a bit. So I cut a bulkhead out of Divinycell foam, and bonded it into the cap with flox. Then I applied some T-88 glue to the flanges of the rudder, clecoed the cap on, then riveted it in place. Finally, I clamped the intersection of the cap and skin to help it stay pulled into position while the glue sets. I think this will allow the cap to fit pretty well, without any waviness or puckering.
6. Sanded the filler on the VS cap, along the side of the antenna notch. This actually came out pretty well. [NO PHOTO YET.]


 
Feb 22, 2023     Rudder top and bottom caps; VS cap - (5.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Filed and straightened the filled seam on the rudder top cap.
2. Drilled and clecoed the rudder top cap in place to check its fit.
3. Filed and sanded the filled leading edge of the VS cap. Put it in place to check its fit. Decided to add some filler to the left side, just behind the antenna notch. Mixed up some micro/flox/cabosil and applied it to the cap.
4. I had been thinking about whether I wanted to attach the bottom rudder cap with rivets or screws, and today I finally decided to do the extra work and install nutplates so I can easily remove the cap if needed for future repairs, or to service the strobe light and its wire bundle. I marked and drilled the bottom attach flange for #8 countersunk-rivet nutplates.. I also marked and drilled the rudder spar and the bottom "rudder box" for four additional nutplates.
4. Riveted on the nutplates. Countersunk the cap attach holes for #8 screws and finish washers.
5. Installed the bottom rudder cap to check its fit. Marked several locations where there is some height-mismatch between the cap and the adjacent skins, then removed the cap and used some of the thickened mixture from before to apply a thin coat on the inside of the cap. After sanding, this should bring up the level of the cap to the adjacent skin. I also filled a couple of locations on the rudder skin edge where I'd previously made a small divot with the rivet squeezer. After sanding, this will make the seam nice and straight. I also filled some extraneous holes in the attach flange, just for aesthetics.
6. Used the last bit of the mixture to fill some pinholes in the bottom part of the rudder cap, along the manufacturing seam.


 
Feb 21, 2023     HS cap plugs; VS cap; Rudder cap; Elevator trim slot - (3.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. On the HS filler plugs, I sanded the pinhole filler from last night, and shaped the edges of the plugs. There are still a very few pinholes remaining, but I think I'm going to leave those to the painter to address. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the way the plugs came out.

2. Checked the fit of the VS cap and decided to fill the front of it, where it meets the inside of the VS skin. I used a small amount of micro/cabosil mix to goop onto the cap.

3. Set the rudder cap in place to check its fit. Decided to fill a few minor variations along the right seam of the cap, so I gooped on some micro/cabosil mix there also.

4. Filed one edge of the slot where the elevator trim rod comes through the elevator skin.


 
Feb 20, 2023     HS plug access holes; Pinhole filling - (1.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Located and drilled an 11/32" hole through the filler plug in the outboard end of each horizontal stabilizer. This will allow me to do the yearly Van's Service Bulletin (SB-00036) by inserting a video borescope and inspecting the inside of the HS spar near the elevator hinge brackets. I set up my borescope and verified the hole size (and also verified there were no cracks in the spar).

2. Sanded and filled more pinholes in the filler plugs.


 
Feb 19, 2023     HS cap plugs - (1 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded the HS cap plugs, then gave them a shot of filler primer to check for pinholes. As expected, there are quite a few, so there will be more filling in the morning!


 
Feb 15, 2023     HS cap plugs - (1.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the micro on the cap plugs.
2. Mixed up more micro for the first round of spot-filling, and applied it to the various small pinholes and divots in the plugs.


 
Feb 14, 2023     HS cap plugs - (1.7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Mixed up a thick slurry of micro and cabosil and spread it onto the horizontal stabilizer cap fillers on both sides. Once this sets up, I'll sand it down to a nice smooth surface.


 
Feb 13, 2023     Elevator dimpling; HS cap plugs and filler; Empeggange fairing - (1.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Used a "nail dimpler" set to dimple the two remaining cap-attach holes on the trailing edge of the L elevator.

2. Lightly sanded the plugs on the HS caps. (These will get a final, sandable coating of micro shortly.)

3. Cut out and sanded some foam plugs for the horizontal stabs themselves, just adjacent to the cap plugs.

4. Prepped the ends of the HSs.

5. Mixed up some thick flox and bonded the plugs in place in the HSs.

6. Began the process of making my own empennage fairings by cutting up some florist's foam and inserting it into the space above the fuselage aft deck.


 
Feb 09, 2023     Elevator trim servo connectors; HS cap plugs; Elevator rivet filling - (3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Soldered on the two elevator trim servo connectors. (These two connectors I used are a 4-pin and a 3-pin Micro Deans connector. The connectors are keyed so there cannot be a "reversed connection error" on either similar connector, nor can there be a misconnection made between the two connectors.)

2. Sanded the fillet blind rivets on the elevators and horizontal stabilizers. Cleaned, masked, and primed the areas.

3. Sanded the insides of the HS tip caps, and all the adjacent areas that will be glued, with #36 sandpaper. Cleaned the areas thoroughly.

4. Mixed up some thick flox and applied in to the contact points inside the openings of the HS caps. Spreads some more flox on the edges of the foam plugs, then gently pushed them into a flush position inside the caps. Filled in the edge gaps with flox, then spread more flox over the outside surface of the plugs. An hour later, after it had started to become tacky, I pressed on the flox with a popsicle stick to level it as much as possible, then applied a layer of peel-ply. Hopefully this will minimize the amount of required sanding a bit.


 
Feb 08, 2023     Elevator trim servo amd tab; HS cap attach; Rivet filling - (4.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Prepped the elevator trim servo wires and connectors for soldering.
2. Final-drilled all attach holes on the HS caps to #30. Countersunk the caps and dimpled the HS skins.
3. Match-drilled and clecoed the right HS cap in place.
4. Sanded and cleaned the inside flange of the HS skins in preparation for gluing.
5. Mixed up some T-88 glue and applied it to the inside flanges of both HS skins.
6. Riveted both HS caps in place. Cleaned up some excess glue that had squeezed out.
7. Removed the L elevator. Installed a 1/4" nutplate in the web of the elevator counterbalance so that I can later add balancing flat washers if needed after the elevators are painted.
8. Removed the elevator trim tab so I could do some minor filler work on it.
9. Shaved and filled all rivets on the elevators that needed it.
10. Filled all the blind rivet heads on the elevators and HS skins.


 
Feb 07, 2023     Elevator and HS caps; Filler plugs - (4.7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Prepped the R elevator by attaching the two counterweights.
2. Attached the right elevator to the HS. Adjusted the weight position and hardware to get a batter static balance (It's still not quite right, but it's good enough for now...)
3. Marked and filed the right HS skin to allow for an elevator gap that matches the one on the left elevator.
4. Used side-grip clecoes to clamp the HS cap in place, then match-drilled the cap to the right HS.
5. Marked and drilled the mounting holes in the right elevator.
6. Match-drilled the elevator cap to the right elevator.

Began working on the cap plugs. I've decided to fabricate thems from 3/4" Divinycell closed-cell foam, then use thick flox to bond them into the various voids. The remaining volume of the spaces will be filled with a thick micro mix and sanded. For me, this seems like it will be the quickest and most flexible method of filling the caps, while still providing a nice look.

7. Cut out a sample filler cap and used it to verify the process I have in mind, as well as to familiarize myself with the cutting/sanding properties of Divinycell foam.
8. Cut out and sanded foam pieces for both elevators and horizontal stabilizers.
9. Test-fit the plugs.


 
Feb 06, 2023     Rudder and elevator caps - (2.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Continued working on rudder and elevator caps.

1. Final sanded the rudder cap.
2. Cut, prepped, and bonded reinforcement strips into the elevator caps.
3. Drilled mounting holes in the L elevator skin.
4. Planned and researched methods of filling the back sides of the various caps.
5. Trimmed the left HS skin about 3/16" to give enough clearance from the elevator counterbalance.
6. Filed clearance notches into the lead weights and attached them to the left elevator. Changed to a longer bolt and added a few washers to get the elevator slightly "overbalanced."


 
Feb 05, 2023     Elevator and rudder caps - (2.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Identified and sanded some glitches on the seams of the elevator caps that needed to be addressed.
2. Taped and trimmed off about 1/4" of the elevator caps' attach-flanges, so the caps fit without interference.
3. Prepped reinforcement strips for the inside of the rudder cap, and bonded them in place.


 
Jan 26, 2023     Elevator and rudder caps - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Final-sanded and primed the elevator caps and rudder top cap. They are just about ready to be drilled and clecoed to their respective control surfaces.


 
Jan 25, 2023     Tail caps (all) - (7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Spent all day working on the fit and the seams of all the tail caps:

1. Since I'd received my new vertical stab cap from Vans, I began getting it to fit the VS. I trimmed off some of the flange, trimmed the aft edge, then measured and iteratively cut the notch for the VOR/ILS antenna puck. I put it in place and set the rudder cap in place to see how easy it will be to match the top edges of the two pieces so they look good. It seems like it should be easy enough -- certainly MUCH easier than the old, shrunken, white-gelcoat parts I'd been working with earlier.

2. Sanded the filled outside seams edges of the elevator caps. Cleaned and primed them.

3. Prepped some of the caps and bonded aluminum riveting strips to the inside of their flanges.

4. Taped and filed the seams of the rudder and stabilizer caps.

5. Filled the leading edge of the VS cap with thick flox, since I had sanded off a fair amount of the leading edge of the cap so it would fit cleanly inside the VS skin.

My hangar (and me) are now covered with fiberglass dust. This is the phase of airplane building I hate, but every day I have to do it is one day closer to not doing it again.


 
Jan 24, 2023     Elevator and HS caps, HS rivet fill sanding; Tail access cover (R) - (3.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Marked and cut the front edge of the R HS cap and trailing edge of the L elevator cap.
2. Sanded off the mold trim line from both elevator caps. Primed them in order to reveal the numerous voids and pinholes that will have to be filled along these trim lines.
3. Sanded, cleaned and primed the two areas of blind rivets on the L elevator.
4. Marked and trimmed the R side tail access cover. Attached it with screws and match-drilled the two upper attach holes to the fusleage.


 
Jan 23, 2023     Empennage fairing; Access cover; Left HS cap - (3.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded the inside of the layup I did yesterday on the empennage fairing.
2. I put the fairing in place and duct-taped it to the fuselage to get it to lie down. Then I put on some oven mitts and used a heat gun to try to get the fairing to take a better set. I don't think I was able to really make much of a difference, but I might need to use more heat.
3. Installed the left elevator.
4. Installed the L tail access cover and checked the clearance from the L elevator. Match-drilled the top edge of the cover to the fuselage using a match-drill strap. Repetitively removed and trimmed the cover until the proper clearance from the elevator shaft was achieved.
5. Trimmed the left HS cap so the elevator counterbalance clears it.
6. Shaved and filled six blind rivets in the left elevator.


 
Jan 22, 2023     HS and VS caps; Empennage fairing - (4.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Cut, bent, and bonded the rivet strips to the inside of the R horizontal stabilizer cap.
2. A while ago I determined that I needed to raise the seam line of the vertical stab cap so that the cap sits at the same level as the rudder cap. The only way to achieve this is going to be to extend the cap's flanges a bit. I began the project of doing this by cutting out some 1-1/2" wide strips of BID glass. Then I applied these on the inside of the cap and stood it upright to cure. I came back every 30 minutes to straighten the flanges as it dried.
3. Applied two more layups on the aft empennage fairing cut.


 
Jan 21, 2023     Horizontal and vertical stab caps; Empennage fairing - (4.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Shot some primer on the horizontal stabilizer (HS) HS caps.
2. Filled some more divots on the right HS cap seam line.
3. Filed and sanded the left HS cap seams. This cap is pretty much ready to be drilled in place.
4. Marked and drilled the attach holes in the L and R horizontal stabilizers.
5. Cut, sanded, and fitted the reinforcement strips that will go inside the HS caps. Bonded them into the L cap and clamped them with lots of side-grip clecoes.
6. Added some more filler to the VS cap seam.
7. Thanks to a bonehead move last week, I ended up re-glassing the left-aft 6" of the empennage fairing back on, after cutting it off. (I originally cut it off because I had an idea about a better way to attach the fairing, but I changed my mind). I did a simple one-ply layup this evening, just to hold the piece in position. I'll follow this up with a couple more layers tomorrow.


 
Jan 20, 2023     Empennage tips - (0.8 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Masked and added filler to certain locations on the vertical stabilizer and horizontal stabilizer tips.


 
Jan 16, 2023     Vertical stab cap - (0.5 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded the vertical stabilizer cap.


 
Jan 15, 2023     Rudder and vertical stab caps; Rudder-stop hole removal - (3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Assessed the gap between the rudder cap and vertical stabilizer cap. Applied filler to the seams on the vertical stab cap.
2. Sanded the filler that I previously applied to the forward attachment holes for the stock rudder stops (which I'm not installing).
3. Cut several lengths of colored 20AWG wire to connect the rudder tail light. Prepped the connectors.
4. Drilled out the tail ring light holes to #30. Clecoed the ring in place and match-drilled the top and bottom attach screw holes through the cap. (This is required on my installation because I'm using 4-40 x 3/4" screws that pass completely through the ring and protrude a bit.)


 
Jan 14, 2023     Rudder caps - (3.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Continued work on the rudder caps:

1. Sanded yesterday's filler on the rudder blind rivets and the rudder top cap.
2. Test-fit the top cap and marked where it needed more filler along the seam line.
3. Applied filler.
4. Measured, marked and cut the rudder horn clots in the new rudder bottom cap. Fit the cap and filed several areas along the seam. I was pleased to find that this new cap fits MUCH better than the previous one.
5. Marked and pre-drilled the attach holes in the bottom cap.
6. Match-drilled the holes to the rudder.
7. Clecoed the bottom cap to the rudder.
8. Test-fit the rudder to the airplane to check cap clearances.


 
Jan 13, 2023     Rudder top cap - (2.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Spent a couple of hours sanding and filing the seam of the rudder top cap, in order to get it to be even and to match the rudder skin. Much more priming, filling and sanding to go.


 
Jan 08, 2023     Rudder caps - (2.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Worked some more on the rudder top and bottom caps:

1. Sanded off the top, "manufacturer's" seam of the rudder top and bottom caps.

2. Sanded the flange area of the rudder top cap. Applied a bead of filler and scraped it flat. (Tomorrow I will sand it in a way that will improve the seam between the cap and the rudder.

3. Filled several blind rivets at the bottom of the rudder skin.

4. Sanded the tail light mounting pad so it's flat. Used the tail light mounting base to mark the location of the attach rivets and the center wire hole. Drilled the attach holes and the wire pass-through hole.

5. Began fitting the rudder bottom cap by sanding and filing the edges. It fits MUCH better than the previous white cap that I've been wrestling with. [NO PHOTO].


 
Jan 07, 2023     Rudder top cap - (0.8 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Received and test-fit a new rudder top cap. As I suspected, the new-production caps fit much better than the old white ones. It looks like this one will work much better.


 
Jan 02, 2023     Rudder top fairing - (2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Began working with the top cap of the rudder.

1. Measured and trimmed off the front 4" of the cap so it would fit in the rudder.
2. I noted that the rudder top channel and skin did not make a straight line, so the first order of business was to clamp a straightedge to the skin, draw a line forward onto the channel, then file off the excess.
3. Stuffed the top cap with paper towels to force the edges of the cap outward, then taped the cap in position and drilled/clecoed it to the rudder.

Overall, the cap fits pretty poorly and I'm wondering if these old white gel-coated parts (now 20 years old) have shrunk over the years. I may have to order some new gray ones.


 
Dec 31, 2022     Rudder bottom fairing; Rudder stop - (4.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Closed out 2022 with some work on the rudder bottom fairing and rudder stop:

1. Drilled and clecoed the rudder bottom fairing in place. Deburred all holes.
2. Removed and trimmed the edge of the fairing a few times to get the seams right. I also thinned the material in a few places to get a better fit. It's still not perfect, but it's getting there. There are also some chips in the fiberglass that will have to be filled. I fitted the rudder on the airplane and removed it at least a half-dozen times to check clearances. Filed a bit of the gelcoat to get more space from the VS attach bolt heads.
3. Sawed and filed out a section of the rudder stop to make room for the bottom bearing.
4. Positioned and drilled the steel rudder brackets so the stop fits between the upper and lower pieces. Bolted the stop in place. (The left and right sides of the stop will have to be filed down quite a bit to get the required rudder deflection of 30-35 degrees.)
5. Planned the wire run for the tail light assembly.


 
Dec 30, 2022     Rudder bottom fairing - (4.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Mounted the rudder on the vertical stabilizer. Clamped it in the neutral position.
2. Took measurements for cutting the bottom fairing.
3. Cut and iteratively sanded the fairing to fit the bottom of the rudder.


 
Aug 10, 2022     Vertical stab cap - (0.2 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded the latest layer of filler to make the cap match the vertical stabilizer.


 
Aug 07, 2022     Vertical stab cap - (0.5 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Drew a cut line along the aft side of the cap, then trimmed off the extra material. Checked the fit at the leading edge, and added filler to the area.


 
Aug 03, 2022     Vertical stab cap - (0.5 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded the stab cap. Still needs more tweaking.


 
Aug 02, 2022     Vertical stab fairing - (0.3 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded, then filled the front end of the VS fairing. It will need quite a lot of filler and sanding..


 
Aug 01, 2022     Vertical stabilizer cap - (0.7 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
1. Sanded and filed the ILS antenna opening to optimize the cap's fit.
2. Sanded inside the VS to get rid of some dried glue.
3. Applied some filler to the leading edge of the cap. Later, I'll sand this down so the cap matches the VS leading edge.


 
Nov 09, 2014     Tail light attachment ring - (.8 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Today I spent a lot of time getting my shop equipment in order, organizing the various parts I've already made, and generally getting my head back into the construction process.

I picked a nice easy project today: Drilling and clecoing in place the Effectus Aerial Products' tail light attachment ring to the bottom of the rudder fairing. I sanded the attach area smooth and flat, then drilled the center hole for the wires to pass through. Finally I opened up the hole so that four offset bullet connectors can pass through. This will allow for easy removal and replacement of the LED unit if it ever needs to be changed out.

The ring will be riveted in place with blind rivets once the the airplane is in final assembly.


 
Nov 06, 2013     Vertical stabilizer tip - (.6 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
I began tackling the various fiberglass tips this evening, by marking and cutting the notches in the vertical stabilizer tip to accomodate the VOR antenna "puck." This will eventually be where the cat's-whisker VOR antenna elements will be attached.

I know, a lot of people install them underneath the aft part of the fuselage, and if I had a time machine, that's probably where I'd try to put it, too. However, in the old RV-8 kits (like mine), that location is a lot harder to use because the aft fuselage has VERY limited space into which to insert one's body. And therefore, in 2003 I installed that VOR puck in the top of the vertical stabilizer -- and by golly, that's where it's staying.

The only bad part about this location is that the antenna elements become eye-pokers. I will probably have to remove them when the plane is on display, just for the safety of spectators.


 
Jul 23, 2009     Attach vertical stabilizer (final) - (3.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
After yesterday's buffoonery with the vertical stabilizer spar attachment, I recovered nicely by riveting the attach tab and spacer to the FRONT side of the spar, where it's supposed to be. Then I did a few small jobs in preparation for attaching the VS:

-- Ran a pull-string down though the conduit in the leading edge of the VS, then pulled the video camera wire up through it.
-- Cut a notch in the plastic wire conduit so the wire will bend the corner at the bottom edge of the VS.
-- Filed a small notch in the left edge of the VS aft spar so the tail wire grommet would clear it.
-- Squeezed the three rivets that attach the elevator "up" stop to the aft deck.
-- Touched up a few paint scuffs here and there,

Finally, I attached the vertical stabilizer and began torquing the 10 nuts that hold it on. (If your RV-8 only has nine bolts, don't worry. I added an additional one at the bottom of the rear spar of the VS.)


 
Jul 22, 2009     Attach horizontal stabilizer; Attach vertical stab - (2.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
At last, I managed to get the last one of the four forward attach nuts on the HS torqued into place. It took about 30 minutes, as I anticipated. I re-attached the Adel clamp that secures the three wires that come up through the aft deck. and re-positioned the tail camera wire to get some more slack in it.

Once that was accomplished, I decided to start mounting the vertical stabilizer. When the VS was temporarily attached about a year ago, everything fit like a glove. Imagine my surprise today when I found a 1/4" gap between the forward face of the VS spar tab and the HS spar web. I know there wasn't a gap before, when the parts were clecoed together on the fuselage.

A quick check of the drawings showed that, a year ago, I'd riveted the spacer plate and attach tab on the BACK of the VS spar, instead of the front side, where they were supposed to be. And I'd never checked the fit after riveting them. I'd simply taken the VS home and stored it. D'oh.

I drilled out the eleven rivets, and prepped and primed all the parts again. Tomorrow I'll rivet everything in its proper place. Yeesh.

(Photo 3: Do NOT do what I did here.)


 
Jul 21, 2009     Attach horizontal stabilizer (final) - (1.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
I had enough time to get nuts torqued onto three of the four attach bolts for the forward spar of the horizontal stabilizer. Reaching into the fuselage through the lightening hole in the aft deck was excruciating, but since I didn't find a gnome with long arms in my travels today, I had to do it myself. Using a combination of 1/4" drives handles, 12-point sockets, extension bars, worklights and a mirror on a flexible arm, I managed to get the job done. The fourth nut will take another half-hour of effort tomorrow. I just had to take a break and let my forearms heal overnight.

See photos 2 and 3 for a description of a helpful tip I highly recommend if you're trying to do this job on an early-model QB fuselage with the top skin already in place.

Photo 1: Attaching the forward spar is easier if you lightly glue the nuts and washers together...
Photo 2: ...so you can insert them both into the fuselage together and not lose the washer off of the socket.


 
Jun 30, 2009     Vertical stabilizer conduit - (2.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Oh man, what I would have given for a time machine today...

Back when I built my vertical stabilizer, I never thought I'd want to install a tail camera -- so I never installed a conduit, or ran extra wire through the structure. Today, I spent an inordinate amount of time correcting that situation. I temporarily removed the VOR/LOC/GS antenna puck and slightly widened the existing opening at the forward end of the top rib, then fed a 5/8" plastic tube through the stabilizer, all the way down to the bottom rib. This involved making a hook out of a coat hanger, inserting a tiny flashlight in the other available hole in the rib, and fishing around by feel until I hooked the tubing. I then maneuvered it down slowly, inch by inch, until I could grab it with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I secured the tube at the top end with Goop adhesive, and once it dries I'll stretch the tube and secure it at the bottom end with more Goop. I'm hoping this will prevent it from shifting too much when in operation. I may have to Goop it along its length, too.


 
Jun 12, 2009     Moved HS and VS to workshop - (.1 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
In preparation for mounting the horizontal and vertical stabilizers, I moved the HS and VS to my hangar. (The HS has been in storage for about a year in my living room, where I must admit it made a lovely conversation piece.)

Photo caption: "Honest, officer -- it doesn't hinder my driving ability whatsoever."


 
Jun 14, 2008     Rudder cable fairing; Avionics access door; Paint prep. - (2.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Today, I drilled the rudder cable exit fairings onto the aft fuselage. I had to measure pretty carefully to make sure the two lower rivet holes would have sufficient edge distance in the longeron.

I also spent some time trimming and filing the edges of the doubler plate/stiffener around the avionics access door hole, and drilled the nutplate attach holes for the eight #8 screws that will secure the door closed.

Finally, I removed the rudder cables, rudder pedal assembly, and elevator pushrods from the fuselage in preparation for painting the interior.


 
Jun 08, 2008     EFIS backup battery jack - (.4 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated and drilled a doubler plate that will go under the EFIS backup battery charging jack on the right mid-cabin cover. [Superseded.]

I'd intended to work on preparations for rotating the fuselage upside down this evening, but a line of Level 5+ thunderstorms containing hail was approaching, so I had to leave the workshop and put my truck in the garage. (I'm getting tired of the extraordinary storms we've been having for almost a week around here...)


 
Jun 08, 2008     VS attach plate - (.6 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
To complete the VS assembly, I riveted the Vertical Stabilizer attach plate and spacer to the VS forward spar.


 
Jun 07, 2008     Tail cleanup - (1.0 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
I spent some time deburring, sanding, filing, prepping and priming the rudder stops, elevator "up-stop" angle, and vertical stabilizer connector plate and spacer.
 
May 09, 2008     Mounting VS - (1.0 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
A few days ago, when I mounted the VS, I ended up with a slightly out-of-round hole at the bottom of the tailwheel weldment. Today, on the advice of Van's tech support, I drilled the hole out to 3/8" and installed an AN6 bolt. On the advice of several other builders, I also drilled an additional 1/4" hole above this and installed an additional AN4 bolt.


 
May 04, 2008     Mounting VS - (5.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
I finished the mounting of the vertical stabilzer today -- almost.

First, though, I fabricated the two rudder stops and put them aside for later.

Next, I checked the level of the fuselage and rechecked everything I did yesterday. I removed the VS and drilled and bolted the F-812B rear spar attach angle/control stop to the fuselage.

Then I remounted the VS and spent some quality time getting it aligned and perfect. Then it was drill, cleco, check the alignment, drill another hole, cleco, etc., then increase the hole sizes until each was big enough to insert a bolt. Everything worked out great except one hole at the lower end of the tailwheel mounting weldment, which is a bit oblong because of a bonehead error on my part. I may install a fourth AN4 bolt down there to make myself feel good about it. Otherwise everything looks spot-on, square and lined up.

The only thing left to do is to remove the VS and install the 11 rivets that connect the forward spar to the connector plate (the clecoes in photo #3).


 
May 03, 2008     Mounting VS - (8.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
I got a lot done today! First, I built a 36" tall sawhorse so I could remove the fuselage rotisserie and gain access to the aft bulkhead. Next, I re-leveled the fuselage. I drew a centerline on the top of the fuselage skin, and drew centerlines on the forward and aft spar of the vertical stabilizer, the leading edge of the VS, and the aft fuselage bulkhead.

I prepped both the connector plate and the spacer for the forward spar, then clamped the VS to the fuselage. Next, I spent about an hour squaring it up and measuring to make sure it's in the ballpark. I got it within 1/32" in all dimensions, which will be more than adequate.

In accordance with Van's instructions, I removed the VS and trimmed off about 1/2" of the forward spar so it won't conflict with the connector plate and the forward attach bolts.

I noticed that I hadn't yet fabricated the F-812B rear spar attach angle/control stop, so I did that. I also decided to drill it to the fuselage while the VS was in place. Tomorrow, I'll re-square the VS and drill it to the fuselage.


 
May 02, 2008     Mounting HS - (2.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
The horizontal stabilizer has been mounted! I re-measured everything to make sure it hadn't moved overnight, then experimented with all sorts of methods to drill the four bolt holes in the forward spar of the horizontal stabilizer. They are a bit tough to get to. There's no room for an angle drill because of the C-clamp holding the forward spar. A 12-inch #40 drill bit works fine for the initial hole, and even a #30 is OK. Larger bits, however, don't bend nearly enough. After consulting with several friends who've built RV-8s, I mounted a small sanding drum in the Dremel tool and filed four small notches in the flange of the forward spar. This gave me enough room to reach the lower flange with a threaded drill extension (photo #1) and #12 bit, while still keeping the hole vertical. Tip: Pay close attention to the measurements on the drawings for these holes. The edge distances underneath are critical. I spent a long time measuring and marking the locations for these holes, and it paid off. They came out perfect.

The four bolts went in fine, but then I found it's also quite a challenge to tighten the nuts on the bottom side of these holes. There's not much room for tools AND your arm in there. It would be much easier without the top fuselage skin on. I need a kid with tiny hands or something.

Next, I checked the angle of incidence of the stabilizer, and drilled the holes for the four bolts that connect the aft spar. Everything went great. These nuts/bolts are relatively easy to tighten.


 
May 01, 2008     Mounting HS - (3.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
A few days ago, I clamped the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage, and today I actually began the process of mounting it. I began by leveling the fuselage and clamping two legs to the false spars. These will prevent the fuselage from moving around the roll axis. Next, I fabricated the 1/8" spacers that go under the front spar of the tail, and taped them into position. I marked the centerline of the fuselage and stab for reference. To establish the spacing under the aft spar, I used a 3/16" drill bit.

I checked the level of the stabilizer, and it was just about perfect. (A note about accuracy: You can really make yourself crazy by using a digital level and trying to eliminate the last tenth of a degree of error, but frankly, I think that's just wasting time. The second picture below shows a perfect result on the bubble level, and a 0.1 degree error or the digital level. You just have to let it go -- 0.1 degree is WELL within the manufacturer's guidelines. These airplanes were designed long before digital levels were invented!)

To get the tail perpendicular to the fuselage, I measured from a particular rivet on each side of the stabilizer skin to a centerline rivet just on the skin behind the cockpit. Each side ended up at 104-11/16"

I clamped the forward spar to the deck with a C-clamp (see photo #3), and marked the locations for the four forward AN-3 bolts. I centerpunched them and drilled the first one with a 12" drill bit. It came out great. More tomorrow.


 
Apr 23, 2008     Horizontal stab mounting (temporary) - (1.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
I decided to take a big step today. My horizontal stabilizer has been hanging in a cradle on my hangar wall for over five years. Its presence in my hangar was a constant reminder of my uncompleted airplane project. It has silently marked the time since my employer's bankruptcy and has been, in a way, a symbol of all my career frustrations. Despite my employer's continuing financial difficulties and my career's instability, I decided to jam a stake through all the demons.

With the help of a friend, I leveled the fuselage, removed the horizontal stab from the wall, and clamped it in place on the fuselage. I spent an hour studying the tail-mounting process in the assembly manual and reading the plans. Very satisfying. I now know I WILL finish this airplane, no matter what happens to my career.


 
Mar 23, 2004     L elevator Category: Tail Feathers
Bent final section of skin leading edge. Clecoed and riveted halves together. Added three additional blind rivets, same as on right elevator, to secure skin edge. Filed and rough-fitted fiberglass tip.
 
Mar 20, 2004     L elevator Category: Tail Feathers
Had to cut one of the iron pipes shorter to fit the last remaining skin section. (Cutting provided free of charge by Dodge Machine Shop, Belvidere, IL.)
 
Oct 13, 2003     L elevator - (1.7 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Curled the bottom part of leading edge skin. This went very easily and results look better than any previous leading edge skin bend. Bent 2 of 4 top sections of leading edge skin. Clecoed bottom and top halves together.
 
Sep 22, 2003     Trim tab - (1.8 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
I'm not really happy wit the gap between the trim tab and the left elevator. As an experiment, I added some filler material to the outboard end of the trim tab skin. I filed and sanded this filler until the space between the tab and the skin was even. Eventually, I realized the folly of this endeavor, since filler will certainly not last under high vibration and air loads. I decided to order another trim tab skin.
 
Sep 06, 2003     L elevator - (3.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated hinge pin keeper from one segment of an old hinge. Riveted trim tab spar to root rib. Used my friend's no-hole squeezer yoke. Began bending trailing edge. Trimmed away excess material on tab “ears,” then filed, sanded and re-primed them. Finished trailing edge bend.

Fitted skin into jig, then fitted elevator skeleton inside. Hand-formed and fitted counterbalance skin and clecoed entire assembly. Clecoed trim tab hinge in place. Cut and marked new hinge pin for bending. Bent hinge pin.


 
Jul 23, 2003     L elevator - (.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted elevator horn to skeleton. Roughed and primed horn.
 
Jul 22, 2003     L elevator - (.7 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Trimmed flange of trim servo mounting plate to accommodate horn rivets. Sanded plate edge. Clamped, drilled and clecoed elevator horn to skeleton.
 
Jun 27, 2003     L elevator - (1.5 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Drilled, disassembled, deburred, sanded, roughed, cleaned, and primed tip rib components.
 
May 21, 2003     MAC elevator servo - (1.0 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated and soldered 5-pin-DIN plug for trim servo connector wires.

[Ended up not using this.]
 
May 21, 2003     L elevator - (1.3 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Roughed, dimpled, cleaned and primed all stiffeners.
 
Jul 10, 2002     R elevator - (.8 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Completed bending leading edge, and riveted it.
 
Jun 26, 2002     R elevator - (1.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Made a series of tools out of iron pipe to help bend the leading edge of the elevators.

Curled the bottom half of the leading edge. Used three separate duct-taped iron pipes with 90-degree elbow and handle piece. Each was purchased to fit its specific segment of the skin.


 
Jun 24, 2002     L elevator - (.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Dimpled new root rib and corresponding holes on spars. Clamped tip rib assembly to spar.
 
Jun 21, 2002     L elevator - (.5 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed both forward and aft spars to skin. Clamped, drilled and clecoed new root rib to spar.
 
Jun 20, 2002     L elevator - (.2 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Dimpled appropriate holes on aft spar.
 
Jun 14, 2002     Trim tab - (.4 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Filed and sanded edge of tab skin.
 
Jun 13, 2002     L elevator - (.5 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Bent tabs on skin. These came out nice.
 
Jun 05, 2002     Trim tab - (.5 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Cleaned, dimpled and primed actuator horns. Countersunk holes on top of trim tab spar. Ended up ugly and over-countersunk, so ordered new tab spar. Fitted and clamped hinge to trim tab spar to mark for trimming. Hinge looks like it will have to be cut shorter to fit. Will also research alternate method of safetying hinge pin.
 
Jun 05, 2002     L elevator - (.5 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Countersunk holes on top of rear spar. Polished edges of rear spar.
 
Jun 04, 2002     Trim tab - (.9 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Bent trailing edge of skin. Used 1/8” wooden dowel. Bent lower leading edge of skin. Deburred and hand-polished trim actuator horns.

I'm not entirely happy with the way the ears on the trim tab came out. I may have to re-do the trim tab.


 
Jun 04, 2002     L elevator - (.2 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Bent front and rear flanges on new root rib. The new root rib is already pre-drilled on the aft flange (the one that connects to the trim tab spar), unlike the original one.
 
Jun 03, 2002     L elevator - (.1 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Installed last screw on servo mount. Van's sent rivets instead of screws, so got missing screw from Jim Preiss.
 
Jun 02, 2002     Trim tab - (.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Fit and trimmed tab actuator horns to skin. Trim tab ears may be slightly mis-bent. Had to trim off a fair amount of horns to match the bends of the skin, especially on the inboard horn.
 
May 30, 2002     Trim tab - (1.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Bent tabs on ends of trim tab skin. (It's a tougher job than it initially appears!) I used the method shown in the RV-8 manual: I hammered skin around wood blocks cut from the V-jig. Should have used wooden block next to skin, but results are OK (but not great). We'll see.

Clecoed and drilled E-607 trim tab spar to bottom half of skin.


 
May 29, 2002     L elevator - (1.7 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Scrounged for new servo-mounting screw, but was unable to find one. Ordered one from Van's. Un-dimpled and machine countersunk holes on top of rear spar. Was not satisfied with results, so threw spar away and ordered new one from Van's. Also reordered new root rib. Riveted reinforcement plates and nutplates to spar. After realizing that six rivets on first plate were installed “backwards” (shop-head out), I drilled them out, re-primed the plates and spar, and re-installed the rivets.
 
May 27, 2002     L elevator - (1.2 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Polished, roughed and primed reinforcement plates and front spar. Hand-polished edges of trim actuator access hole in skin. Riveted E-615 trim reinforcement plate to skin. Squeezed most of these rivets, but had to back-rivet one due to squeezer access.
 
May 25, 2002     L elevator - (3.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated elevator trim servo brackets. Polished, deburred, roughed, cleaned and primed brackets, cover plate and reinforcement plate. Installed nutplates on reinforcement plate. Riveted brackets to cover plate. Began installing servo. Kit was missing one servo-mounting screw.


 
May 24, 2002     L elevator - (2.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fitted and drilled reinforcement plates to spar. Clecoed both forward and aft spars to skin. Bent root rib flanges to match spars. Clamped, drilled and clecoed root rib to spar. Initially installed a shim between rib and spar, but after dimpling spar, this became unnecessary. Dimpled spars. This was a mistake (See 5/29/2002). Cut and filed notches in tip rib flanges. Clamped, drilled and clecoed tip rib assembly to spar. Positioned E-615 trim servo reinforcement plate. Drilled out, deburred and dimpled all holes. Polished edges of plate and cover plate.


 
May 23, 2002     L elevator - (2.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Removed plastic strips from around stiffener holes in skin. Back-riveted stiffeners to skin. Unlike right elevator, all dimpled stiffener holes were lightly countersunk (from outside of skin) with deburring bit before rivets were installed (like on HS). Results look great. Fluted E-603 and E-604 tip ribs. Aligned, clamped, drilled and clecoed them together. This went very fast, thanks to previous experience on right elevator.


 
May 22, 2002     L elevator - (2.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Deburred holes in skin and dimpled holes. Removed protective plastic. Sanded, cleaned and primed skin. Used pop-rivet dimple die for two forward holes of each stiffener.


 
May 20, 2002     L elevator - (1.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
rilled holes in top stiffeners. Drilled and clecoed stiffeners to skin.


 
May 13, 2002     L elevator - (3.4 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated remaining three bottom stiffeners. Positioned, drilled and clecoed bottom-side stiffeners to skin. Fabricated new stiffeners for top side of skin.
 
May 09, 2002     L elevator - (1.0 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Began fabricating new stiffeners after realizing that the bottom ones on the left elevator should be reversed from the others.

Fabricated five of eight new stiffeners for bottom side of skin. Used most of left-over angle.
 
Apr 28, 2002     Tail jig disassembly - (.8 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Completed disassembly of "H-frame" tail jig.
 
Apr 24, 2002     R elevator - (.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Installed all but two remaining rivets in skin. Will have to figure out a way to buck the last rivets on trailing edge. Even my buddy's narrow-nose, “no-hole” squeezer yoke does not fit.
 
Apr 24, 2002     HS storage; VS final assembly - (.4 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sealed center section of HS with plastic-wrap for long-term storage. Hung HS on wall of hangar. (I had no idea it would hang there for almost five years).

Cleaned all markings from VS skin. Riveted all remaining rivets. Had to un-bolt antenna puck to reach 4 rivets.


 
Apr 23, 2002     Tail jig disassembly - (.5 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Began disassembling large tail jig (the"H' frame).
 
Apr 22, 2002     VS final assembly - (2.3 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Removed skin. Moved coax cable to give more slack on top end (for future antenna puck removal.) Re-clamped coax and re-clecoed skin. Riveted skin to skeleton. Left 8-10 open holes near leading edge and around antenna puck. Drilled out and replaced two rivets along the way. The rivets in the VS skin are easier to buck than the ones in the HS were.
 
Apr 16, 2002     L elevator - (2.6 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Laid out lines on inside of top of skin. Measured for top stiffeners. Finished fabricating stiffeners, except for final polishing. Lots of aluminum angle left over; enough for at least 10 more stiffeners. Will donate it to needy children. :-)
 
Apr 11, 2002     VS final assembly -- VOR antenna - (.2 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Aligned antenna elements with VS structure by removing one shim from beneath antenna puck. Tightened assembly down.
 
Apr 11, 2002     L elevator - (1.1 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Finished laying out lines on inside bottom of skin. Clecoed spar to skin and drilled out holes to final size. Measured for, and began fabricating, stiffeners.
 
Apr 10, 2002     VS final assembly - (1.3 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Removed skin. Cut plastic from around holes on left side. Filed right side of antenna notch to make it symmetrical with left. Sanded all edges of skin. Removed previously-missed plastic bits from around dimpled skin holes and re-primed.
 
Apr 05, 2002     L elevator; R elevator - (1.2 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed left skin to left E-602 spar. Drilled skin to spar. Began laying out lines in skin for stiffeners.

Finished riveting skin, except for 8 rivets at trailing edge of skin. Plans called for CS4-4 blind rivets in four locations, but MK 319-BS's seemed to fit better. I'll research this.
 
Apr 04, 2002     R elevator - (3.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Disassembled elevator. Deburred, dimpled and primed where needed. Reassembled and did 95% of the riveting. (I almost forgot the Permatex RTV at the trailing edges of stiffeners. I had to take the elevator out of the jig and un-cleco one side after approximately 20 rivets had been set on the other side. A good save.)


 
Apr 03, 2002     R elevator; VS final assembly - (2.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Removed control horn and deburred and re-primed holes in horn and spar. Riveted horn to spar. Roughed powder coating on control horn for future painting. Had to drill out and replace the first two rivets out of 12 due to not using the right size riveting head. (Yeah, that'll do it!) Clecoed skeleton into skin. Aligned, drilled and clecoed tip and root ribs to skin. Fitted E-613 counterbalance skin. Clamped and drilled in place.

Cut protective plastic from around holes on right side of VS.


 
Apr 02, 2002     VS final assembly -- VOR antenna - (1.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Completed enlargement of tooling hole. Fitted rubber grommet in hole. Finished attaching three Adel clamps to spar. Ran coax cable. (Used UniBit to complete hole enlargement. Nice!) Fitted skin to skeleton. Clearance between antenna puck and skin on left side was insufficient, so filed skin a bit, and also fabricated and installed two thin shims below left side of puck. Attached antenna elements and checked puck alignment with VS structure.


 
Apr 01, 2002     VS final assembly -- VOR antenna - (1.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Today I drilled, deburred and primed four additional, dedicated mounting holes in the doubler plates, then riveted the doubler plates and platenuts to the top rib. Used squeezer for all rivets (which were AD470AN3-7s, cut down to the proper length). Installed the antenna puck. Attached six feet of RG-58 coax cable (with BNC connectors on each end). I sealed this connection with weatherproof rubber sealant “tape,” commonly used on outdoor coax connections. I've had excellent results with this stuff in many antenna connections over the years, so I think it will prevent corrosion in the connection for the next few years as I build the rest of the airplane. I began installing three Adel clamps along the front side of the spar web to hold the coax cable, and began enlarging a tooling hole in the bottom rib for the cable to pass though.


 
Apr 01, 2002     R elevator - (.5 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Removed skeleton, and hand-squeezed the rib flanges together, as mentioned in the previous entry. Re-primed areas on ribs where the skin had partially worn through the primer.
 
Mar 31, 2002     VS final assembly - (.8 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Dimpled skeleton. Top rib was evidently mounted at a 94-degree angle instead of 93 degrees. Rivets will be slightly off-center (toward the web of the rib). Had to grind a flat edge on the female dimple die to reach some holes.
 
Mar 31, 2002     R elevator - (2.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Finished fabricating “V-block” jig for elevators. We experienced lots of broken wood screws until we changed to good quality hardware. We fastened blocks to 4-foot pressboard base instead of tabletop, for portability, and clamped the jig baseboard to a tabletop. Then we mounted the skin-bending jig to a worktable. The jig wood has warped slightly over the past couple of months, but the warp is uniform and should not affect the results at all. I bent the skin, inserted it into jig, and clecoed the skeleton inside to check its initial alignment. The bend came out very nice. I'll have to squeeze the flanges of the end ribs to prevent bulging of the skin on the ends, though.

(Note the wooden dowel used to maintain a constant-radius trailing edge.)


 
Mar 30, 2002     VS final assembly -- VOR antenna - (2.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Roughed, cleaned and primed antenna doubler plates and inside of VS skin. Cut notches in skin for antenna “puck” to stick through. Filed and sanded skin edges.


 
Mar 30, 2002     HS skin attachment - (.2 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted remaining four rivets, using a friend's narrow-nose squeezer arbor.
 
Mar 29, 2002     VS final assembly -- VOR antenna - (3.9 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Finished planning, and acquired parts for, mounting VOR/ILS antenna. Bought parts (Adel clamps, bolts, nuts, washers, nutplates) from Poplar Grove Airmotive. Drilled skin to skeleton. Filed ends of ribs to match skin edge. Removed and deburred skin. Sanded edges of skin. Deburred skeleton. Fabricated two new doubler plates for VOR/ILS antenna, since the assembly is now further forward than before, and therefore must be narrower. Clamped both plates to top rib and drilled nutplate holes. Used swivel deburring tool again to enlarge coax cable hole in top rib.
 
Mar 28, 2002     VS final assembly - (0.4 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Started planning mounting of VOR/ILS antenna. (It appears that the original location I planned will not work due to rudder and rudder counterbalance clearance issues. The antenna must be mounted as far forward as possible.)
 
Mar 28, 2002     VS final assembly - (2.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
With help from Les Bourne, I attached and aligned jig fixture brackets, mounted the VS skeleton, clecoed the skin to the skeleton, and aligned them with each other. We added a pair of wooden clothespin clamps and some shims. There is a slight overhang of the top rib outside of the skin -- I don't think it will be a factor.


 
Mar 27, 2002     HS skin attachment - (5.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted HS skins to skeleton. Les Bourne drove rivets and I bucked. We could not set the two leading-edge rivets in each tip rib -- I'll have to borrow a narrow-nose arbor for my squeezer. Drilled out one rivet, and another one (on the middle nose-rib, bottom of right side) is not exactly flush. I will try to fix it later.


 
Mar 25, 2002     R elevator - (1.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted E-609 root rib to spar. Used squeezer. Plans call for 3-3.5 rivets, but after first one, switched to 3-4 rivets, a much better choice for dimpled rivets in this location. Filed end of spar flange to allow WD-605 control horn to fit. Measured and marked centerlines on spar web and horn arms. Clamped horn to spar. Drilled and clecoed horn to spar.


 
Mar 17, 2002     R elevator - (.6 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted reinforcement plates and platenuts to spar. Riveted tip rib to spar. Had to put one rivet in rib flange “backwards” because of lack of room for either rivet gun or squeezer.


 
Mar 10, 2002     R elevator - (.2 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed together spar, reinforcement plates and ribs.
 
Mar 06, 2002     R elevator - (2.2 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Roughed, cleaned and primed spar, plates and ribs. Primer did not stick in certain areas, so re-sanded and re-primed. Began assembling elevator jig. Cut notches and marked centerlines of each piece.
 
Mar 05, 2002     Rudder - (.1 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Installed remaining seven LS4-3 blind rivets in rudder horn brace.
 
Mar 04, 2002     R elevator - (2.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Removed remainder of protective plastic strips. Back-riveted all stiffeners to skin. (Rivets nearest trailing edge are tough to reach, but they came out fine.)

Fluted E-603 and E-604 ribs. Aligned, clamped, drilled and clecoed ribs together. Marked for rivet placement underneath lip of counterweight. Drilled both counterweight mounting holes. Fit and drilled reinforcement plates to spar. Clecoed spar to skin. Bent E-609 root rib flange to meet spar; clamped and drilled rib to spar. Called Vans (for the first time!) to clarify the number of rivets to attach root rib (manual says two, drawing shows three. Installed three.) Dimpled spar. Cut notches in tip rib to clear spar flanges. Positioned, clamped and drilled tip rib assembly to spar. Disassembled, deburred, filed and polished spar, reinforcement plates and ribs.


 
Mar 03, 2002     R elevator - (.4 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Removed protective plastic from top of right elevator. Taped rivets into holes and positioned stiffeners.
 
Mar 01, 2002     VS final assembly - (.6 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated doubler plate for VOR/ILS/GS antenna out of .032” 2024-T3.
 
Mar 01, 2002     R elevator - (1.3 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Deburred, roughed, cleaned and dimpled stiffeners for right elevator. Dimpled skin. Used pop-rivet dimple die for forward-most holes. Deburred right elevator spar. Primed stiffeners and inside of right elevator skin.
 
Feb 26, 2002     R elevator - (5.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Marked bottom stiffeners and drilled holes. Marked trailing edge holes to be ��om skin trailing edge, and leading edge holes to be �from end of stiffener (3/8" from spar). Remaining holes equally distributed using a rivet fan. Fabricated top stiffeners and drilled holes. Laid out lines for positioning top stiffeners. Drilled stiffeners to skin and clecoed in place. Had to fabricate one new stiffener – mis-drilled first hole in middle top stiffener of right elevator by approximately 3/32"” -- had to relocate entire stiffener. Should be almost unnoticeable.


 
Feb 25, 2002     R elevator - (1.8 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed right skin to right E-602 spar. Drilled skin to spar. Laid out lines in skin for first set of stiffeners. Began fabricating stiffeners. (The belt-sander really speeds up the process! Averaged approximately 15 minutes to fabricate each piece from raw stock, all the way through final polishing.)
 
Feb 24, 2002     Rudder - (3.2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Bent leading edge of rudder and blind-riveted edges together. Used ��eel pipe and ��oden broom handle, lots of duct tape, and lots of manual labor. (I had no idea that bending metal could be so much fun, intense, and rewarding! The finished rolled edge looks great.)

Installed rudder counterweight. Dismantled rudder jig. Fitted rudder and vertical stab to check alignment. Alignment looks like it will be perfect.


 
Feb 23, 2002     VS final assembly - (.4 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Drilled out middle rib tooling hole to 5/8”, primed and added rubber grommet for future VOR/ILS/GS antenna coax cable. (I don't have a Unibit yet, so I used a swivel deburring tool to enlarge the hole. There are definitely easier ways…)
 
Feb 23, 2002     Rudder - (1.8 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Dimpled remaining holes in skin. Filed, sanded and primed notches in skin around rudder horn. Installed blobs of Permatex UltraBlue RTV compound to join trailing edges of stiffener pairs. Reassembled and clecoed skin and skeleton. Riveted skin to skeleton. Used squeezer for all these rivets. Left seven rivet holes in rudder horn brace until I can order LS4-3 blind rivets. (These appear to have been left out of the kit.)
 
Feb 22, 2002     Rudder - (1.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated rudder bottom attachment strips per drawings, using 0.032 aluminum. Clamped and drilled to skin and rib. Disassembled rudder; deburred all holes. Dimpled skin, spar and ribs. Had to use several dimpling methods: Hand squeezer, Vise-grip type, and pop-rivet type. Primed new strips and touched up some other parts. After priming, peeled plastic off of top counterbalance strip and re-primed. (Oops.) Cut protective plastic from skin around holes to be riveted next.


 
Feb 22, 2002     Rudder jig - (.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded "V-blocks." Added handles to brake. Decided to move rudder jig to a portable board.
 
Feb 21, 2002     Rudder - (4.8 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Removed protective plastic from skins around stiffener holes. Back-riveted stiffeners to rudder skin. Fun! Only forgot to position backing plate for one rivet, but no harm done. These rivets look great!

Removed carpet from small worktable, and fastened rudder skin brake to table. Bent trailing edge of rudder skin. Taped 1/8” diameter wooden dowel inside skin to establish proper radius. Duct-taped skin to table to hold it in place. Removed brake from table. Set up and aligned V-block jigs on small worktable. Had to shim both the V-blocks and the table itself. Installed rudder skin into V-block jig; fitted rudder skeleton inside. Clecoed skin leading edge to skeleton, adjusted ribs and clamped. Checked alignment and clearance with VS. Drilled and clecoed skin to skeleton. As I suspected earlier, the lower rudder rib is misaligned approximately 1/16” to the left, but the offset is barely noticeable when the skin is clecoed on. Fit R-410 rudder horn brace in place. Drilled and clecoed.


 
Feb 20, 2002     Rudder jig - (.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded "V-blocks." Added handles to brake. Decided to move rudder jig to a portable board.
 
Feb 19, 2002     Rudder jig - (1.1 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Finished building rudder jig. Attached jig to main workbench. Not sure if this will work, because of limited access to back side of rudder. Built rudder trailing edge brake. Used 2x10s and five hinges. Sanded all surfaces.
 
Feb 18, 2002     Rudder jig - (.3 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Disassembled and re-constructed part of rudder skin jig.


 
Feb 18, 2002     Rudder - (.4 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted nutplates to spar. Per my friend Les, I threaded the rod end bearings in the nutplates first. The drawings do not show what rivet size to use, so I used AN470AD4-8s. Marked centerlines on all rib flanges.
 
Feb 17, 2002     Rudder Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted reinforcement plates to spar. Clecoed top rib to spar. Primed nutplates. (Placed bottom three rivets on lowest reinforcement plate “shop-head out” to amuse future Oshkosh judges. In case I am one day deluded into thinking I have a “perfect” airplane, these rivets will keep me humble. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. To reinforce this notion further, I had to drill out and replace one rivet.)
 
Feb 17, 2002     HS skin attachment - (0.4 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Removed skins and filed ends of HS-814 angle to clear skins. (Used Vixen file and lots of masking tape to prevent damage to surrounding areas.) Re-primed HS-814.
 
Feb 16, 2002     Rudder - (2.1 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Aligned and drilled R-410 horn brace into assembly. I should have waited to do this -- the manual was confusing on this point. It probably won't matter much. Straightened R-803 rib. Clamped and drilled counterbalance skin to it, then drilled rib to spar. Clecoed skin to skeleton to check initial alignments. I intentionally did this in a different, easier order than the manual said to.

My R-404 rib is misaligned about 1/16” to the left on the spar because I was a bonehead and didn't use “skin-simulator” strips when aligning rib to spar. Thought about ordering new rudder horn, brace, and rib.

Trimmed .032 spacer to fit. Again. Disassembled, deburred, polished edges, roughed, cleaned and primed all components except nutplates.


 
Feb 15, 2002     Rudder - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated another .032 spacer to replace the too-short one I made yesterday. (Actually made 2 before I got it right.) Filed top front edge of rudder horn to fit against rib, per drawings. Bolted rudder horn to spar. Cut and filed notch in R-404 rib to fit around bolt. Assembled, aligned, drilled and clecoed spar/rib/horn/spacer assembly. I didn't have a 3/8” bolt, so used a rod end bearing and thin jamb nuts.


 
Feb 14, 2002     Rudder - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded, cleaned and primed the rudder skin. ( I tried an ergonomic handle grip for the spray can, which worked OK until near the end, when it sprayed drips of primer all over the skin.)

Clecoed R-606 / 607 / 608 plates to R-802 spar. Fabricated .032 spacer for spar/rib assembly. Trimmed, filed and polished R-410 rudder horn brace per plans. Used a belt sander for first time, instead of a Vixen file. The right tool certainly makes things go fast!


 
Feb 10, 2002     Rudder - (3.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Clamped skin to table. Drilled and clecoed stiffeners to skin. Deburred and dimpled skin. (I had to use pop-rivet dimple dies for the trailing edge holes.) Deburred, dimpled, scuffed, cleaned and primed stiffeners. (I forgot to scuff the stiffeners before dimpling. Oh well.)


 
Feb 09, 2002     Rudder - (3.5 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Cut all remaining stiffeners (B-Hs), then filed and polished edges. Numbered stiffeners for future identification.
 
Feb 08, 2002     VS skeleton - (2.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Riveted front spar to ribs, and front rib to this assembly. Squeezed lower rib, bucked the rest. Drilled out forward tooling hole in VS-806 tip rib. Re-primed all scuffed areas on skeleton.


 
Feb 08, 2002     Rudder - (1.0 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Cut out rudder V-blocks and screwed 2x4s to them. (I'll finish the jig later.) Identified and labeled rudder stiffeners. Cut first set of stiffeners (R-815As) from stock, and cut tapers.
 
Feb 07, 2002     VS front spar - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Aligned, drilled and clecoed the front spar on the ribs. Aligned front rib, bent its rear flange, then drilled and clecoed the rib to front spar. (A 12" drill bit is a necessity here.)

Sanded, polished, cleaned and primed the front spar and front rib.


 
Feb 03, 2002     VS rear spar - (.8 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Drilled and clecoed remaining rib. Cleaned and primed all 3 ribs. Riveted to rear spar.
 
Feb 02, 2002     VS rear spar       Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed spar channel, reinforcement plate and hinge brackets together and riveted. Drilled out and replaced one flush rivet. Experienced moderate pain in my left arm from simultaneous bucking and driving. Sanded, polished and fluted VS-404/405/407/806 ribs. One rib has an uncut lightening hole, but neither the drawings nor the instructions showed the hole should be cut, so left it alone. (I suspect this hole would be cut if a strobe light were to be mounted on top of tail.) (See 28/29 March 2002 entry for more.) Drilled and clecoed 2 of 3 ribs to rear spar.


 
Feb 01, 2002     VS rear spar - (3.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed VS-808 reinforcement plate to VS-803 rear spar channel. Clecoed hinge brackets in position. Back-drilled remaining holes through upper hinge bracket of VS-410. Clecoed skin to rear spar. Drilled all holes to full size. Disassembled all components; removed protective plastic from flanges. Dimpled holes in VS-803 flanges. Dimpled holes in VS-803 where VS-808 will attach with flush rivets. (Had to reverse dimple dies in hand squeezer to reach holes.) Machine-countersunk VS-808 to accept above dimples. Fabricated ��4” dimpled test strip to QC countersink depth. (Protective plastic got in the way when test-fitting the dimpled & countersunk holes together, so I removed it.) Deburred all holes, and sanded all surfaces and edges in channel and reinforcement. Cleaned and primed both. Sanded off gloss from rudder hinge brackets in preparation for future painting.


 
Feb 01, 2002     HS skin attachment - (0.3 hour) Category: Tail Feathers
Removed the nut on the threaded rod and clecoed the right skin to the skeleton. The HS is now finished except for riveting the skins. I'll have to wait for more manpower.
 
Jan 31, 2002     HS skin attachment - (5.6 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Finished dimpling the left skeleton, then deburred and dimpled right skeleton. Used Vice-Grip dimpler for the holes on the forward tips of the HS-606 ribs. Riveted the front ends of the HS-405 ribs to the front spar. Removed and deburred the right skin, then dimpled. Sanded and polished the edges of the skins. Peeled the protective plastic from the inside of the skins, and also in thin strips down each line of holes. Strips were very time consuming — not sure if this is worth the time expenditure. (Note: I found out later how to cut these strips with a ruler and a soldering iron. Boy do I feel like a dope sometimes...!) Sanded, cleaned and primed the insides of the skins.


 
Jan 30, 2002     HS skin attachment - (4.7 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Drilled the right skin to the skeleton. Adjusted the HS-607 rib with a long flexible rod prior to drilling. Removed and deburred the left skin, then dimpled it. I used the Avery C-frame tool for most holes, but I had to use the squeezer for the forward edges, and I used a pop-rivet dimple-die set for the forward four holes in the center. On first one, I used the wrong size nosepiece on the pop-rivet tool, and the nail got stuck. I had to take the tool apart to release it. D'oh! Undaunted, I deburred and started dimpling the left skeleton.BTW, the Avery C-frame riveting frame is a great tool!

(Yes, it was cold in the hangar that day!)


 
Jan 29, 2002     HS skeleton and ribs - (8.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated wooden "clothespin" clamps to hold skin against skeleton. Used �ywood and �de weather-strip foam covered with duct tape.

Cut longer �hreaded rod and installed with washers and nuts in jig to hold HS-606 tip ribs. Measured tables and dimpling frame for dimensions of future dimpling table.

Trued-up skeleton: Measured, re-measured, clamped and checked against skin holes. (Very time-consuming.) Primed HS-607 and HS-404 ribs. Clamped, clecoed, drilled and riveted HS-607 and HS-404 ribs to forward spar. Use angle-drill attachment for the first time. Used offset rivet shaft to drive rivets in the HS-607 -- shop heads turned out OK. The left HS-607 rib initially appeared to be misaligned with the rest of the rib (~1/16”), but it aligned with the skin holes OK. Filed a little off the flange of the right HS-404 rib to clear HS-814 angle. Re-primed.

Clecoed left skin to skeleton. Checked all flanges centerlines, then drilled and clecoed left skin to skeleton. Used drilling pattern recommended by manual and Orndorff. Starting to look like part of an airplane!

Clecoed right HS skin to skeleton. Now it really looks like an airplane part.


 
Jan 28, 2002     Tail jig - (1.2 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Added a center vertical brace to jig. Drilled holes in jig posts for �threaded rod. (Rod was too short to reach HS-606 ribs, so I will need to either build additional vertical wood pieces, or get longer rods.)

Fabricated duct-tape covered wedges to use with the clothespin clamps that will hold the elevators. (See 29 Jan 02).
 
Jan 28, 2002     HS skeleton and ribs - (4.4 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Removed rear spar from jig. Primed all ribs and re-primed front spar center section where HS-814s had been re-filed. Drilled, clecoed and riveted ribs to rear spar. Drilled out and re-riveted one flush rivet in spar channel (See 26 Jan 02). Remounted rear spar into jig. Clamped front spar onto ribs. Measured and aligned all components; marked rib flange centerlines; test-fit skins; drilled and clecoed HS-607 ribs to front spar. The skins fit like a glove -- the flange centerline marks lined up precisely with the holes! Sweet.


 
Jan 28, 2002     HS front spar - (2.5 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Finish-sanded and cleaned all parts. Countersunk holes in HS-810/814s, and dimpled corresponding holes in channels. Primed all parts. Riveted channels and angles together. Shop heads of 4 flush rivets came out OK.
 
Jan 27, 2002     HS skeleton and ribs; Tail jig - (6.9 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Sanded and filed HS-404, 405, 606, 607, and 608 ribs. Notched HS-404 ribs to fit around spar splice angles. Filed and polished. Used a nibbler tool, which is much easier and cleaner than tin snips! Test-fit ribs to spar. Filed ends of HS-814 again per drawings to clear ribs. Heavily taped surrounding areas to prevent damage from Vixen file. Fluted all ribs. Bent and adjusted ribs flanges to get proper angles with spar. (Plans suggested using a hand seamer, but it was easier to do this by hand.)

Drilled out forward tooling holes on HS-606s for threaded rod. Made 4" x 1.25" skin replacement strips for next step out of .032 scraps. Mounted HS rear spar on jig. Clamped HS-606 ribs in place on ends of spar, drilled and clecoed both in position. Clamped left set of HS-405 and 608 ribs on spar. Test-fit forward spar. For tip-rib drilling, I used the Orndorff technique of pre-drilling the rib, then back-drilling using a long bit.

Mounted angle brackets on jig beam -- a royal pain. I had to make shims and relocate the brackets 3 times. (The outboard 2 brackets on each side must be placed either outboard or inboard of elevator hinge brackets, unlike what they do in the Orndorff video.) I figured out that I should to use a center punch to start the holes in the wood, otherwise the grain of the wood pulls the screw sideways as it is driven.


 
Jan 26, 2002     Tail jig construction - (13 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Built the tail jig, using kiln-dried Douglas Fir 4x4s for the uprights and crosspiece. The 4x4s were hand-picked and were the straightest ones I could locate in Rockford, IL. The vertical pieces were bolted to the floor, and I added end braces to make the jig very stable.

After it was in place, I established a centerline on the jig, and installed overhead plumb wire that passes thru the post, then runs to a tension turnbuckle on the side.


 
Jan 25, 2002     HS front spar - (3.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Trimmed inboard ends of spar channels per plans. Sanded and polished all edges on channels. Straight snips were somewhat difficult to work with. Had to be very careful not to mar edges.

Bent the ends of the HS-810 and HS-814 to 6 degrees. I used hand seamer and the edge of the table.

Bent channel tongues to match. The manual says to do this with a hand-seamer, but my seamer is too wide, so I did it by hand on the edge of a table, which worked fine.

Clecoed spar components together; drilled holes outboard of bends.


 
Jan 24, 2002     HS front spar - (1.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Established a centerline using colored string and a heavy weight. Clamped the channels and splice angles, and adjusted the overall spar length. Drilled HS-810 and HS-814 to the channels. After clecoing the angles to channel, the alignment of the angles appeared to be a little off ( less than 1/32") so I relocated and re-drilled them, since they will be final-drilled with a #30 bit later.


 
Jan 22, 2002     HS front spar - (2.2 hours) Category: Tail Feathers
Fabricated HS-814 splice angle.

Started laying out HS-602 channels and splice angles. Tried using chalk line to establish spar centerline, but it's too imprecise. Will try dental floss or string next.
 
Jan 21, 2002     HS front spar - (2 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Made and used my own wooden drill fence for the drill press.

Finished fabricating HS-810 splice angle. Looks great!


 
Jan 17, 2002     HS front spar - (3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Began fabricating HS-810 and HS-814 splice angles. Rough-cut HS-810 with a coping saw and later, a Skil jig saw. Finished with various files, emery paper and sandpaper.


 
Jan 16, 2002     HS rear spar - (4.3 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Disassembled, deburred, primed and riveted bars into spar channel. Squeezed first rivet (ouch!), then drove the rest.

Riveted outboard 4 elevator hinge brackets to spar.

Bolted center elevator bracket and bearing to spar. You're supposed to torque these to 20-25 inch-lbs, but since my present torque wrench doesn't read that low, I made an intelligent guess. I'll add this task to my "Punch List" and check it later.


 
Jan 15, 2002     HS rear spar - (5.5 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Clecoed elevator hinge brackets to spar. Drilled out holes and deburred. Cleaned all parts and primed them with Sherwin-Williams 988 Self-Etching Primer (Gray).

Matched L&R center elevator hinge brackets, assembled brackets and bearing. Drilled second bracket. Deburred, cleaned and primed, then riveted assembly together. Drilled bolt holes through bracket into spar. Squeezed these rivets. Nice.


 
Jan 11, 2002     HS rear spar - (2.0 hours)       Category: Tail Feathers
Matched HS-609PP bars inside HS-603PP spar channels. Sanded bar edges. Deburred holes in spar channels. Dimpled flanges. Final-drilled all holes. Deburred again. I used a hand deburring tool for a while, then switched to cordless screwdriver with a deburring bit in the chuck.

When drilling the HS, I found that my sheet of sacrificial MDF on the tabletop is very useful. Also, the lightweight Sioux drill is fantastic and highly recommended!


 
Jan 10, 2002     HS rear spar - (0.8 hour)       Category: Tail Feathers
Matched skins to rear spar channels. Drilled out all holes.


 


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