Project: BuckRV-8   -  
            Listing for Category : firewall forward
    (Please mouse-over any icon to get a description of that function).


  
Builder Name:Buck Wyndham   -  
Project:   Vans - RV-8   -   VIEW REPORTS
Total Hours:3907.05
Start/Last Date:Jan 08, 2002 - No Finish Date
Engine:AeroSport Power IO-375-M1S
Propeller:Whirlwind 330-3B/72H-73 3-blade CS
Panel:G3X, G5, GTN650, GTR20, GTX45R, GMA245, GMC507
 
Friendly URL: https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=BuckRV-8

Home or Last Project Picture

Sep 08, 2023     More baffle sealant - (0.75 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Added more high-temp RTV to various areas of the baffling.


 
Sep 04, 2023     Baffle brace - (0.2 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Tightened the nuts on the two case through-bolts at the top-rear of the engine where the baffle support is attached.


 
Aug 28, 2023     Baffle sealing - (2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Used high-temp RTV to seal most of the major holes and gaps in the baffling. (I'm sure more will be needed later, but for now the big ones are done.)


 
Aug 27, 2023     Forward baffle attach screws - (1.75 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Removed all the remaining clecos that were holding the forward baffles to the inlet baffles.
2. Drilled the #30 holes up to #19. Deburred them.
3. Installed screws and high-temp locknuts.


 
Aug 27, 2023     Desiccant replacement - (0.4 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Renewed the desiccant crystals in the upper spark-plug holes of the cylinders and replenished them with dry crystals.


 
Aug 27, 2023     Upper cowl - inside spot-filler - (0.2 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Sanded yesterday's filler inside the upper cowl.
2. Primed the filled areas.


 
Aug 26, 2023     Forward baffling screws - (1 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Pulled out the clecos holding the baffle seals to the forward vertical baffle pieces.
2. Replaced them with #8 washer screws and high-temp nuts. (Used an AN3 bolt where the baffle attaches to the top-center case bracket.)


 
Dec 16, 2022     Snorkel safety wire; Manifold pressure line - (0.6 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Safety-wired the snorkel to the fuel servo using my new Safe-T-Cable tool (which is just about the coolest tool I've ever bought!)

2. Attached and secured the new manifold pressure line.

With just a few minor exceptions (installing the spark plugs, installing the battery, and attaching the front baffles), everything firewall forward is now complete! It's been quite an adventure. Onward.


 
Dec 15, 2022     Oil shutter cable - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. I got my courage up and decided to do the final installation of the oil cooler shutter cable. My task was to pull the cockpit knob back 14", cut off the outer sheath of the cable, push the knob all the way forward again, cut the inner control cable to its proper length, and connect it. The problem was that once you pull the knob back about 6", things get a little complicated. I didn't really have much guidance on how the McFarlane push-to-unlock knobs come apart, but I figured it out from an online document I finally found. I ended up lining the cabin floor under the control knob with sticky tape to catch the small steel ball in the knob that people say can easily get loose. Sure enough, the ball ended up getting loose twice (and missed the tape both times), but both times I was lucky to see where it went and was able to easily retrieve it. After I figured out how to put the ball back in and reassemble the knob, everything went smoothly. I made a couple of adjustments to the angle of the cable clamp to make the valve work smoothly, then cut off the excess inner cable. I filed the end smooth and put some heat-shrink on it to prevent getting poked by it someday. So now I have all the engine controls connected and operating well.

2. Moving to the other side of the engine, I changed out a standard Adel clamp that I'd used for the alternate air cable to an all-steel, locking clamp -- which is the proper one to use in an application like this.

3. For several additional hours, I straightened the workshop and put away about ten thousand tools that were used to do all the engine and baffle work. I also cleaned up the little trays of miscellaneous, unused hardware that seem to have popped up all around the shop over the last year.


 
Dec 14, 2022     Oil cooler and plenum; Shutter cable; Manifold pressure line - (4.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the oil cooler and its plenum.
2. Hooked up the oil lines to and from the cooler.
3. Began hooking up the oil cooler shutter control cable. I have some questions about pulling the control knob the required 11" from the cockpit so that I can trim the outer sheath of the cable, and I didn't want to proceed without talking to the cable manufacturer tomorrow. The cable is clamped in place and ready to trim and hook up when I'm sure I won't inadvertently cut right through it with my Dremel cutter.
4. Hooked up the manifold pressure sensor hose. It would certainly work alright, but because of the way it fits near the oil cooler, I decided to have it re-made. I placed an order with Aircraft Specialty Flightlines for a hose with slightly different clocking on one end. It should be here in a day or two.
5. Secured one last section of spark plug leads that needed it. [NO PHOTO]
6. Added an Adel clamp to the Tanis heater ground wire where it runs to the firewall. [NO PHOTO]


 
Dec 13, 2022     Oil cooler plenum; Sniffle valve drain; Alternate air door & cable - (6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. I began installing the oil cooler and plenum, but I realized that the rubber strip on the plenum had the potential to get loose with pressure from the baffle, so I removed everything and decided to glue and caulk the rubber seal in place. I put glue inside the attachment channel and clamped it in place. Then a few hours later, after it had started to set, I caulked the inside edges of the seal with high-temp caulk. After everything completely sets, I'll resume installing the oil cooler and plenum.

2. In the meantime, I moved to other parts of the engine. I decided to fabricate and install the sniffle valve drain line. I clamped a short length of hose to the valve, then clamped a foot-long piece of aluminum tube to that, running it straight back to a point between the inner exhaust pipes. I removed the rubber from a #4 Adel clamp, drilled a #12 hole in the exhaust cross-strap, and attached everything with an AN3 bolt, washer and high-temp locknut.

3. Next, I installed the intake snorkel to the fuel servo with a new gasket and the proper washers and cross-drilled bolts. (I still need to safety-wire the attach bolts). Then I used blind rivets to attach the snorkel to the left intake baffle. I used some high-temp sealant to fill some gaps here (more of this will be done later).

4. Finally, I installed and rigged the alternate air door to the intake snorkel. I cut the pull-cable to the right length, re-routed it from the firewall and installed the Adel clamps to keep it in position, installed the hardware on the valve, wrapped the pull cable 2.5 times around the door screw, and tightened it. As in improvement to the design, I used a longer screw and a couple of spacer washers to get the cable to stand off the face of the door a bit, so the door won't get scratched. I finished off the end of the pull-cable with a piece of heat-shrink tube so nobody stabs themselves on it.


 
Dec 12, 2022     Oil cooler; Chafing mitigation; Cabin heat; Tanis heater ground - (1.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Spent some time looking all over the engine for places where chafing might occur. Added short sections of 3/4" and 3/8" heater line as shields in various locations. Trimmed a small piece off the bottom of the #1 engine baffle to allow a bit more room for the prop governor hose.

2. Cut off the factory ground wire ring from the Tanis plug. Shortened the wire and crimped on a new ring terminal. Attached the terminal to a #10 screw at the bottom of the GPS antenna shelf.

3. Cut 2" off the free end of the cabin heat inlet hose and attached it to the baffle flange.

4. Mounted the oil cooler plenum on the oil cooler. (I can't mount the cooler until I find some 7/8" long #10 machine screws for the oil cooler butterfly valve.)


 
Dec 11, 2022     Oil filler tube; Tanis heater installation - (5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Finished detailing the oil filler tube and installed it.

2. Installed the wiring for the Tanis engine heater:
a. Clamped the power plug fixture to the top right part of the engine mount instead of the oil filler, because that's the only place it would fit and still be accessible through the cowl access door.
b. Ran the five power leads (one to each of the cylinders and one to the oil sump).
c. Wired the 110V power plug.
d. Secured all the wire runs.
e. Bundled the excess wires and secured them.
f. Wired the indicator light and clamped it to the engine mount near the oil dipstick tube, so it can be seen through the access door.
g. Planned the installation of the ground lead.

3. Worked on getting rid of all potential areas of rubbing and abrasion all around the engine.


 
Dec 09, 2022     Firewall forward organization and cleanup - (5.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Reorganized the spark plug leads and R mag P-lead to improve clearances and wire support. Re-secured them using silicone wrap tape and high-temp zip-ties.

2. Cleaned, primed and painted the oil filler tube.

3. Re-worked the mount for the SlimeFighter cannister to increase the slope from its inlet to its outlet.

4. On the advice of the folks at B&C, I safety-wired the forward two alternator mount bolts (despite the fact that they are already fitted with tabbed washers.)

5. Filled all the remaining flange holes around the edge of the firewall with Fire Barrier 2000 sealant.

6. Used the sealant to seal around the bottom side of the cabin heat inlet flange.

7. Used high-temperature RTV to secure the fuel pump overpressure outlet tube at the bottom of the firewall.


 
Dec 08, 2022     Firewall forward accessories & hookups - (6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Attached oil cooler shutter control swivel to the valve control arm. I found that the control cable diameter was slightly larger than the pre-drilled hole, so I drilled it out a bit.
2 Cut and attached the cooling ducts for the engine-driven fuel pump, and each of the magnetos. Fitted Adel clamps to hold them in their proper positions.
3. Re-routed various spark-plug leads, hoses and other items to optimize how they fit.
4. Fitted the overflow drain for the engine-driven fuel pump. I safety-wired some plastic drain line to the pump fitting, ran it down and back to the firewall, bent a length of soft aluminum tube, safety-wired the tube to this, drilled a hole at the bottom of the firewall flange, and passed the tube through the hole. I then trimmed the tube so it protrudes about 1 inch. Zip-tied the drain line to a nearby hose.
5. Added a heat-shield to an exhaust pipe near the cabin heat control cable. [NO PHOTO]
6. Improved the fit of some of the baffle seals. [NO PHOTO]


 
Dec 07, 2022     Baffle seal addition; Prop governor hose; Alternator cooling - (3.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Fabricated and installed a couple of small strips of baffle seal on the forward two pieces of baffle. These will seal along the inboard edges of the inlet ramps, and area that previously didn't really have a good seal.
2. Opened up the hole in the baffle where the prop governor line passes through. Installed a high-temp grommet, then attached the hose.
3. Installed the alternator cooling hose in the hole in the right inlet floor, then routed the hose into position aimed at the back of the alternator. I used high-temperature Tefzel zip ties to secure it to the prop governor line.


 
Dec 04, 2022     Baffling - (2.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed most of the rest of the baffling, except for the two seals at the bottom of the cowl inlet.

2. Cut several holes along the edges of the seals for clearance issues from various bolts and screws.

3. Drilled out the four screw holes on the inboard sides of the cowl inlets to #12 size. Installed the final cowl-attach nutplates on the bottom cowl. (The four screw holes on the top cowl will eventually be countersunk and fitted with #10 finish washers and stainless countersunk screws.)

4. Installed both top and bottom cowls, to check how everything fits. The cowl was definitely a bit easier to get fastened all the way around this time, but there was still a bit of shoving and cussing involved. I expect it will get progressively easier as time goes on.


 
Dec 03, 2022     Baffle installation (final) - (5.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began installing the baffling for what I hope will be the final time.

1. Attached all the aluminum baffle pieces using final hardware.
2. Ran upper spark plug leads through their baffle holes and installed the pass-through fixtures.
3. Riveted the conical gusset to the lower inlet floor and the sidewall of the right inlet baffle.
4. Riveted the flange for the R magneto cooling tube to the R aft baffle.
5. Installed the oil cooler shutter. (I ended up polishing the ends of the shutter shaft using wet 220 grit and then 1500 grit sandpaper in order to make the valve operate more smoothly.)
6. Installed the four baffle tension rods. (The very first one I installed, under the inboard part of the #1 and /#3 cylinders, was by far the hardest one to do, thanks to me only having two hands. I had to create a tool to hold the aft baffle in its most-forward position in order to get the nut started on the threaded rod.)
7. Began installing the baffle seals using #8 washer screws and high-temp locknuts.


 
Dec 02, 2022     Engine paint touch-up; Baffle painting and assembly - (4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Mixed up a small amount of custom PPG engine paint with appropriate amounts of hardener and catalyst in a small cup, then used a small paintbrush to touch up the areas on the engine I'd previously primed. (Most of these areas were on the bases of the cylinders, and the contact points of the baffles.) The paint blended perfectly, and after it dries overnight, the baffles will be installed.

2. Painted the remainder of the baffles.

3. Removed the two baffle mounts that were attached to the top of the engine (and were painted the wrong color). Then I stripped, cleaned, primed, and repainted them, using the same silver color I used for the baffles.

4. Painted the flanges that will go on the back of the #4 baffle, then riveted the flanges in place.

5. Riveted the attach angle on the right side of the right inlet floor.

6. Attached the cabin heat air inlet flange to the bottom of the right inlet floor.


 
Dec 01, 2022     Baffle final assembly and painting - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Riveted on the stiffener angle under the front edge of the left cowl inlet floor piece -- the piece that also acts as a securing angle for the air filter.
2. Trimmed a bit of baffle seal from around a nut plate on the #4 baffle -- a piece that was causing a strange mis-fit of the baffles. (It took me a while to figure out why this kept happening.) Everything fits nicely now.
3. Riveted eight #8 nutplates to the #4 baffle. These are part of my own modifications to the baffles that will allow them to be installed or removed in small sections later on.
4. Disassembled, roughed, cleaned, and primed the remaining 6-7 pieces of baffling that I wasn't able to do last night.
5. Painted all the baffle pieces that were primed yesterday. I gave them two light coats of 500-degree engine enamel, color silver. I'll give a final wet coat tomorrow. They are looking pretty great!
6. Now that all the baffles are off the engine for perhaps the last time, I was able to clean and prime an additional half-dozen areas of the cylinders and engine case that have paint chipped off of them. I plan to hit these spots with my engine touchup paint soon.


 
Nov 30, 2022     Baffle final assembly and priming - (4.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Did some fitting work on the lower cowl inlet seal strips. I'm not quite ready to drill the final attach holes yet, but I'm getting close.
2. Removed all the baffles and removed all the seals. Trimmed the lower edges of the seals to get rid of excess material that doesn't really do anything, Improved the profiles of some of the baffle edges.
3. Dimpled the lower right inlet floor and side piece to accommodate the conical gusset in the right inlet.
4. Drilled out several attach fittings from #40 to #30 in preparation for riveting.
5. Riveted most of the remaining baffle attach angles that, until now, had been merely clecoed together.
6. Sanded and cleaned most of the baffle pieces.
7. Primed the prepared pieces with high-temp engine primer.


 
Nov 29, 2022     Baffle seals - (4.9 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
My goal for this evening was to get the entire set of baffle seals clecoed in place, with both cowls also fully fastened in place. I pretty much got there, but not without a LOT of effort.

1. Attached the four front seals behind the prop flange.

2. Test-fit the cowl and, as expected, it couldn't be fully pressed down into position. I removed the cowl and began a series of corrective actions that included trimming parts of various seals, scoring some of the seals with a McFarlane scoring tool so they were more flexible, trimming small parts of the baffle itself, re-organizing the seal overlaps, cutting relief slits, and removing and reinstalling the seals and cowls numerous times. I totally lost track of how many times I did this. Along the way, I also removed all the seals and punched the screw holes to their final size, cleaned up all the Sharpie marks, and trimmed some ragged edges smooth.

The interface between the seals and the top cowl near the inlets is a huge puzzle that I think I'm slowly figuring out. It's like trying to solve a Rubik's cube inside a bag, behind your back. You just can't see what you're doing, and making certain moves doesn't always accomplish what you think it will.

3. In the end, I was able to get the cowl pressed down and I installed all but 3 of the Skybolt fasteners. The top cowl is still sitting a tiny bit forward of its proper position, which is the reason I couldn't get three of the Skybolts latched. I'll leave the cowl secured overnight, and see if the baffle seals have begun to relent. If not, I'll do a bit more trimming, here and there.


 
Nov 28, 2022     Cooling flange; Baffle seal fabrication and installation - (4.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Continued working on the baffles and seals:

1. Positioned and drilled the flange for the SCEET tube that will cool the engine-driven fuel pump. This flange will be riveted in place after the baffles are painted.

2. Having received my recently-ordered roll of McFarlane Cowl Saver baffle material today, I rolled it out on a table, traced my paper patterns onto it, and cut out the remaining seal pieces.

3. Clamped the seal pieces in place and match-drilled them to the baffles through the previously-drilled #8 holes. I installed all but the forward pieces that are mounted behind the starter ring gear. (I'll get the main pieces to fit first, then I'll work on those.)

4. Made some minor trims to get the pieces to lay flat or to conform to various underlying structures on the baffles.

5. Pre-bent the seals in the proper directions, then laid the top cowl on top of them. Pressed the cowl down and observed where I might need to trim a bit, or cut notches in the seals. Made some minor trims and cuts, removing the top cowl several times to do this.

6. Eventually, I got the cowl where it could be pushed down about 98% of the way into position. Most the seals seem to fit very nicely. I think the seals that conform to the top cowl ramps on each side are the only really troublesome spot, and they'll require more trimming and notching before the front of the cowl will lay completely down. I duct-taped the cowl as tight as I could get it, and I'll leave everything like that overnight to help the seals take their desired shapes.


 
Nov 27, 2022     Baffle seal attach holes - (2.2 hours) Category: Firewall Forward
Drilled all the remaining #8 attachment screw holes in the baffles. [NO PHOTO]
 
Nov 24, 2022     Baffle seals - (4.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began fitting some of the baffle seals -- at least the ones I could fabricate out of the 3" wide seal material I currently have. (The large piece I ordered will be here in three days.) First, I cut out and began fitting the two narrow seal strips that will go under the cowl inlets.

2. I cut and fitted the #3 cylinder piece, drilled five attach holes for the #8 screws, used a leather punch to finish the holes in the seal strip, then attached the piece with some screws and clecoes. I decided the 1/2" washer screws I have are just a little too long, so I ordered some 7/16" length ones, along with some MS21045-08 locknuts.

3. Opened up one of the two cooling air holes in the back of the #4 cylinder baffle to accommodate the 1" flange and hose that will cool the engine-driven fuel pump.

4. Final-shaped several of the side baffle pieces.

5. Measured out, located and marked all of the attach holes for the baffle seals on 9 of the baffle pieces. (I still have to do this for the two front pieces). Removed all the baffles, then drilled and deburred all the #8 screw holes.

6. Re-installed all the baffle pieces.

As soon as the baffle material gets here, I'll be ready to cut out the seal pieces using the templates I made yesterday, then match-drill them to the baffles.


 
Nov 22, 2022     Baffle seals; Spark plug socket extension hole filler; Tabs - (4.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Made all the remaining paper templates for the baffle seals, including two more that will go under the cowl inlets.

2. Removed all the templates and laid them out in a 36" x 18" space to verify that I'll be able to cut them all from one piece of McFarlane Cowl Saver baffle seal material. (I already have a 3" wide roll of it, but many of the pieces can't be cut from only 3" of material.) I ordered the appropriate size piece -- at considerable expense for two-day shipping.

Since it's Thanksgiving week and I'll have to wait a few days to receive the baffle seal, I decided to do a couple other baffle-related projects:

3. I created a removable plug for the hole in the #3 cylinder baffle that is used to insert a spark plug socket extension. I cut three 1" circles from 0.053" scrap, cut one in half, filed a clearance notch in it, then riveted it to a full circle piece. Then I clamped the assembly to another circle piece, drilled a #8 screw hole through the center of both, and installed a nutplate in the "backside" piece. This gave me a neat little custom plug that will fill the hole, but still be removable for whenever I need to remove the upper spark plug on the #3 cylinder.

4. Located, drilled and clecoed one of the CB-1003D attachment tabs to the #2 baffle.

5. I was going to do the same to the #1 baffle, but I wasn't happy with how small the stock tab was. I decided to make a bigger one, so I cut one from some 0.040" scrap and drilled/clecoed it to the #1 baffle.


 
Nov 19, 2022     Baffle seals - (1.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began making paper templates of the baffle seals. Taped them in place on the baffles to begin establishing the shape and size they'll need to be. I determined there will be 9 pieces of seal strip along the top of the baffling. This will allow any individual piece of the baffling to be removed in the future.


 
Nov 18, 2022     Baffles - (4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Located, drilled and deburred an 11/16" hole in the right inlet baffle floor for the alternator cooling tube.
2. Cut a piece of steel, fine-mesh screen and bonded it to the underside of the cabin heat air-inlet flange.
3. Riveted the right forward attachment tab for the front baflle.
4. Countersunk the stiffener angle that runs along the floor baffle in front of the air filter box.
5. Installed the lower cowl to assess where I am on the fit of the forward floor baffles in relation to the cowl inlets. I decided that I really didn't care for the tight spacing between the two at the bottom of the right inlet, so I cut off the support angle at the bottom of the side piece and filed it smooth. Next, I cut a 4" piece of angle from my scrap supply and fabricated a new attach angle. I reinstalled the side piece, clamped the new angle in place, moved it to get the spacing I wanted, then marked/drilled/clecoed the angle to the side and bottom pieces.
6. Once this was done, I laid the curved gusset piece in place where it matched the curve of the cowl inlet, then marked, drilled and clecoed it also.
7. Opened up and began familiarizing myself with the McFarlane silicone baffle seal material I bought. It looks like it will work well in certain locations.


 
Nov 17, 2022     Baffles - (6.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Reviewed the fit of the aft six baffle pieces. They seem to be in good shape, so I moved on the front four baffles.
2. Installed the side baffles at cylinders 1 & 2. Placed paperclips side by side on the tops of the baffles, then placed the top cowl down on them.
3. Removed the cowl and checked the clips. Made pen marks, trimmed off a bit of the baffles in the locations needed, then installed the baffles and cowl again. I repeated the process at least 7 times to get a consistent 3/8" gap all the way around.
4. Once the side pieces looked good, I moved onto the two front pieces -- the ones that seal around the front of the engine. I clecoed these pieces in place, then added the paperclips to the top edge (although it's pretty easy to just look inside the cowl inlets to see your progress with these). I installed and removed the cowl, baffles, and paperclips about 10 times as I worked to get these front baffles trimmed correctly.
5. Marked the cowl inlet edges for final trimming.

I truly had no idea how many DOZENS of hours it would take to get the baffles cut and fitted. I took a ceremonial picture of the cowl laying down completely, with all the baffles in place. It's a big event!


 
Nov 16, 2022     Aft baffles - (6.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Continued repetitively filing and fitting the baffle pieces until the cowl got within 1/2" of its seated position.
2. Added a row of paperclips to the baffles, sticking up about 1/2". Carefully lowered the top cowl into position. Removed the cowl and noted the depressed positions of the paperclips, then marked the baffles, trimmed them, put the paperclips back in position, and replaced the cowl. Repeated this process at least three more times to get an even gap.
3. Removed a #8 nutplate on the outboard side of the #4 baffle and reinstalled it on the inboard side of the left aft baffle. This will make it much easier to install & remove the baffles later.
4. Filled 4 unused or superseded holes in the left aft baffle.


 
Nov 16, 2022     Baffles - (7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Removed all the Skybolt fasteners from the top cowl. This will speed the process of putting it on and off.
2. Removed the forward baffles.
2. Spent most of the day, repetitively putting the aft baffles on, checking the fit of the top cowl, removing the cowl, marking the baffles, removing them, trimming and deburring them, then reattaching the baffles. I did this at least 15 times during the day. By the end of the session, I had the top cowl sitting within about 3/4" of flush. Next, I will attach paper clips to the baffles to determine the final amount of trimming that will be needed.


 
Nov 14, 2022     Baffles - (6.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Worked on the baffles all evening:

1. Drilled 5/8" holes for the two 1" scat flanges at the locations I'd already identified on the #4 baffle, then taped the flanges to the baffle and drilled the attachment holes.

2. Drilled the eight locations on the #4 baffles and spacer where I wanted to install nutplates. Deburred all the holes. I did not install the nutplates here yet because I want to powder coat the baffles first.

3. Located and installed about a dozen nutplates at the interface between the #4 side and aft baffle pieces. I spent a lot of time engineering this project, because I wanted to be able to easily remove any individual piece of baffling some time later.

4. Installed all the baffle pieces, then the lower cowl, then laid the upper cowl down, to see how much trimming will be needed on various parts of the baffling. I immediately identified several places that were obvious, and set to work trimming these.


 
Nov 14, 2022     Snorkel painting; Baffle tension rods - (3.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Prepped and painted the intake snorkel, with two coats of the same high-temp Lycoming gray I used on the oil cooler plenum.
2. Cut four lengths of stainless steel rod to begin fabricating the baffle tension rods that go under the cylinders.
3. Measured, bent, and threaded the four rods with 6-32 threads. (The rods will probably need some more tweaking during final installation, but I got them pretty close to the shapes that will be needed.


 
Nov 12, 2022     Baffles - (2.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Fitted the entire set of baffles to verify the fit of all the components and the alignments of all the mounting holes. Made a couple of minor adjustments.


 
Nov 11, 2022     Baffles - (4.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut out the large hole if the air filter cover. Filed and sanded the edges
2. Sanded the filled holes from yesterday. Primed the area.
3. Riveted much of the air filter holder structure -- the Z-channels, the last three nutplates, the two engine mount pieces, and some of the rivets in the forward baffle attach tabs.
4. Test-fit the air filter into the new holder, and attached the cover plate. It all looks great.
5. Sanded and primed the intake snorkel. Drilled the filter attach holes in it to their final #30 size.


 
Nov 10, 2022     Alternate air valve; Cowl stiffener finish prep; Baffles - (2.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Sanded, masked, and primed the area around the alternate air valve. Let it dry, then made a few more sanding passes and re-primed it.
2. Applied two layers of thick duct tape about 6" back from the lip of the cowl. Applied a filler coat of lightweight filler over the stiffener strip along the bottom of the cowl exit. Removed the tape to create a nice sharp edge.
3. Filled a few unused drill holes on the air filter z-channels with JB-Weld. These will get sanded down tomorrow evening. [No Photo.]


 
Nov 09, 2022     Alternate air door; Baffles - (3.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the inboard nutplates under the cover plate for the air filter holder. Added two more rivets on each of the air filter angles to give them more stability.
2. Finished final-drilling and deburring all holes in the L front baffle components. Tweaked the fit of the attach angles for the forward baffles.
3. Installed the four nutplates on the #2 cylinder baffle that will attach to the the L front floor.
4. Cut off the excess lower part of the #2 cylinder baffle that will not be used because of my revised design. Bent the forward edge of the baffle at a 5-degree angle inward.
5. Cleaned and primed the interface sides of the air filter holder z-channels.
6. Sanded last night's filler. Added some more filler to few big divots.


 
Nov 08, 2022     Alternate air door; Baffles - (3.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Sanded down the cured resin/flox filler around the alternate air door. I didn't particularly like the way this looked, so I mixed up some lightweight Superfil filler and spread it all around the area. This will sand much nicer tomorrow.

2. Finished riveting the alternate air door ring to the intake snorkel.

3. Riveted and painted the L forward baffle mount assembly.

4. Un-clecoed the L forward baffle pieces and began to deburr the holes and clean up the edges.

5. Drilled the holes for the three nutplates that will secure the right side of the the air filter cover. These were extremely tricky because of the tight space I had to fit them into. I used the narrowest #6 nutplates I could find, then I filed down their tabs and barrels, and got them to work. (On one of them, I even had to cut a small notch through the Z-channel to allow the nutplate to fit properly.

6. Deburred and dimpled numerous attach holes in the baffles for various rivets..


 
Nov 07, 2022     Alternate air door - (3.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Did most of the alternate air installation:

1. Located and match-drilled the 5 rivet holes and one screw hole for the alternate air port into the snorkel.
2. Removed the port. Deburred the holes. Dimpled the 5 rivet holes. Enlarged the screw hole to #8 size. Enlarged the screw hole in the snorkel to 1/4" so the nuplate fit inside of it.
3. Drilled out the nutplate holes in the ring. Deburred and dimpled them. Riveted the nutplate to the ring.
4. Countersunk the five rivet holes in the snorkel. Drilled two clearance holes for the nutplate rivets in the snorkel.
5. Rounded off the edge of the ring, making it a circle instead of a 13-sided tridecagon.
6. Sanded off the primer around the opening in the snorkel. Cleaned the area with acetone.
7. Mixed up some thick flox mixture and added some cabosil so it wouldn't sag. Spread a bead of it along the backside of the ring, then clecoed the ring in place on the snorkel. Added a fillet of flox mixture around the perimeter of the ring, building it up so everything can be sanded flush tomorrow evening.
8. As the resin began to set, I took two of the clecoes out and pulled two of the five blind rivets.
9. Prepped the rest of the hardware that will attach the door and the Bowden cable.


 
Nov 05, 2022     Baffling; Alternate air door - (2.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Put the cowl back on.

2. Revised the design of the conical gusset. Cut a new pattern out of cardboard and checked its fit. Fabricated a gusset from 0.032" aluminum. Manually rolled it over a 1-1/2" diameter PVC pipe to make the bend, then used my bending brake to create the attachment tabs. Test-fit the piece to the baffle and cowl. Removed lower cowl.

3. Removed #1 baffle and R inlet floor.

4. Put a 2-degree inward bend in the front part of the #1 baffle.

5. Trimmed a corresponding 2-degree angle in the outboard edge of the R inlet floor.

6. Removed the L forward support angle assembly. Drilled and clecoed the two parts together. Marked and trimmed off excess material. Deburred the parts and primed them.

7. Cut out the hole in the intake snorkel for the alternate air door.


 
Nov 04, 2022     Baffles - (8.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
More baffle work today. It is truly baffling.

1. Match-drilled all the rivet holes in the mounting tabs for the front baffles.

2. Installed #1 side and front baffles.

3. Put on lower cowl. Checked bend on R inlet floor. It looks good.

4. Taped on mounting tab and junction of R front and R inlet floor. Match-drilled and clecoed the mounting tab.

5. Took measurements of air filter holder. Cut an 8" x 6/2" cover from a scrap of 0.032" aluminum. Marked it for the center cutout. Drilled 6 screw holes. Taped the cover in place over the filter holder. Match-drilled the screw holes.

6. Cut a 6" stiffener from 0.032" angle stock. Positioned and clamped it under the front edge of the L-inlet floor. This will strengthen the floor considerably. Removed and deburred the angle.

7. Cut the stock VA-132D attach angle into a narrow, 3/4" x 1" angle for use on my custom L inlet floor baffle. It will still fasten the #2 baffle to the L inlet floor, but in a different way, and upside down from its stock orientation. Marked and drilled the new angle, then used it as a drill guide to connect it to the filter retainer and baffle floor on one side, and to the #2 baffle on the other side.

8. Up-sized the screw holes in the air filter retention plate to #6.

9. Fabricated the CB-702M and CB-702E forward L support assembly. Screwed it to the engine. Drilled and clecoed it to the L baffle floor.

10. Traced the cabin heat inlet flange and its four attach holes onto the R inlet floor. Removed the floor, drilled the four attach holes and the 2" air hole. Clecoed the flange onto the floor to check the fit. Reinstalled the floor.

11. Marked the #1 baffle in preparation for bending its lower tab.

12. Removed #1 baffle and R inlet floor. Trimmed forward edge. Bent the 90 degree tab that will attach under the R inlet floor. Re-installed the #1 baffle and inlet floor to check the fit.

13. Cut a piece of graph paper and cut it down to the rough shape of a conical gusset for the R inlet baffling.


 
Nov 03, 2022     Baffles - (7.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Lots of baffle work today:

1. Put on lower lower cowl.
2. Noted gap on R inlet baffle floor.
3. Marked desired bend line on baffle floor.
4. Measured and marked amount to trim from lower cowl inlet edges.
5. Measured and marked amount to trim from Cyl. 1&2 side baffles.
6. Removed lower cowl.
7. Cut off and sanded lower cowl inlet edges.
8. Hand-bent the R inlet baffle floor so it has a shallower angle and meets the cowl better.
9. Fitted R forward baffle. Marked and trimmed bottom edge to meet baffle floor. Marked baffle floor for cross-floor bend.
10. Put on lower cowl.
11. Trimmed forward edges of left and right (Cyl. 1&2) baffles to allow them to be installed.
12. Trimmed upper forward edges a bit, using rough measurements taken from upper cowl.
13. Removed lower cowl. Removed starter ring gear and alternator belt.
14. Taped CB-710B angle to R front baffle. Removed both from engine together. Match-drilled and clecoed the baffle.
15. Made the ramp-crossing bend in the R floor.
16. Fabricated CB-710P, CB-702P, CB-702Q front baffle attach angles. Pre-drilled and clecoed the attach holes on the sides of them that contact the front baffles.
17. Duct-taped them in place. Match-drilled through them into the L&R front baffles.
18. Trimmed upper edges of front baffles to match edge profile.


 
Nov 02, 2022     Snorkel; Baffles, Alternate air door - (4.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Worked more on the interface between the air filter holder, baffles, and snorkel. This is definitely the least-documented and complicated part of the airplane so far.

1. I began prepping to do a bunch of fiberglass work to get the air filter holder channels to match to the sides of the snorkel. After looking at the gaps for a bit, I decided to try a bit of metalwork instead. I ended up bending some joggles into the z-channels, and lo and behold, this actually worked pretty well. I drilled pilot holes in the channels, then match-drilled the snorkel to them. Also drilled the aft z-channel to the snorkel, and filed the interface between the sides and aft channel a bit.

2. Began work on the front baffles. These are the ones that surround the starter flywheel and front of the engine case. I began with the right one, clecoing it in place using the stock Vans attach hole. The gap between the baffle and the case was over 1/2" in many places, so I began marking and nibbling off bits of the baffle, then filing the rough edges, reattaching it and checking it, over and over. After about 10-12 iterations, I got it pretty close. (The result of this movement was that the new attach hole for the baffle is over an inch away from from where Vans punched it. I think they should just NOT punch this hole, and let the builder determine where it should be.)

3. Marked the outboard side of the intake snorkel for the location of the alternate air door.

4. Filed and sanded the rough edges of the alternate air door. Countersunk the cable attach screw hole on the backside of the door.

5. Clecoed the door to the door fixture and marked where I wanted to make the bends.

6. Bent the door retainer flange over, then crimped the left edge of the flange to create a door stop. Filed the sharp corners of the flange.


 
Nov 01, 2022     Air filter holder; Baffles - (4.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Today, I discovered that because of a long-ago error I made with the placement of the intake snorkel, I would have to modify the snorkel a bit to comfortably accommodate the outboard Z-channel. Essentially, the filter ended up about 3/8" too far outboard. This realization led me to scrap the Van's stock method of securing the filter in place with tabs on the sides, and to re-design a different way to secure it.

1. First, I measured where I needed the filter to be and still allow the side plates of the baffle to be fastened with small angles.
2. I marked and cut out the filter hole to exactly match the outside diameter of the filter, moving the outboard edge of the hole inboard a bit more than the required 3/8".
3. Marked and progressively trimmed off 1/2" from the top inboard edge of the snorkel. This allowed me to move the filter inboard the needed amount. Once I locate the desired locations of the side channels, I will rebuild the snorkel on both sides so I can attach the z-channels with no gaps. This is going to create a bit of fiberglass work for me over the next few days, but it's the only way I can see to do this without wasting even more time ordering new parts.
4. Now that the filter fit through the hole from the topside of the baffle, I put it in position, clamped and taped the side and back Z-channel holders in place around it, and began marking where the mounting holes will go.

My plan is to create a cover plate for the entire filter that fastens to the baffle with screws and nutplates. The opening in this plate will be about 1/4" smaller on each side than the hole in the baffle. This will hold the filter in place, make the plate and filter easily removable for servicing, will be more straightforward to build than Van's design, and will hopefully solve my earlier error.

5. Put the lower cowl up near the engine, and made the first of several trims of the lower baffle floors. [NO PHOTO].


 
Oct 31, 2022     Air filter holder; Baffles - (1.9 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Coutersunk the underside of the attach holes for the stiffener angle on the left inlet baffle floor.
2. Masked and primed the interface between the angle and the baffle.
3. Bent and fitted the air filter holder aft Z-channel to the baffle floor.
4. Marked the baffle floor for the location of the three screws that will hold the aft z-channel to the floor.


 
Oct 27, 2022     Air filter holder; Baffling - (2.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Finished cutting out and smoothing the edges of the air filter hole in the left inlet baffle.
2. Progressively trimmed the snorkel to a better shape, and with better clearance, where it meets the left baffle floor.
3. Test-fit the filter holder pieces and the filter to the snorkel, just to get an idea of how much room I have to work with as I go forward. (BTW: The Vans instructions and drawings for the Horizontal Induction snorkel/filter are perhaps the worst of any of their sub-kits. If you're installing an IO-360 engine with a Bendix-type fuel servo, be prepared to improvise and do a lot of "fiddling" with the provided parts.)


 
Oct 26, 2022     Baffling; Intake snorkel; Air filter mount - (5.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began working on the snorkel / air filter interface, as well as the #2 cylinder baffle:

1. Attached the left inlet floor baffle and the #2 cylinder side baffle.
2. Attached the snorkel. Repeatedly trimmed and filed the top of the snorkel so it matches the slope of the floor baffle.
3. Once it matched, I traced around the snorkel onto the bottom of the floor baffle.
4. Began cutting out the filter hole. I got it rough-cut, and I'll finish the hole tomorrow.

5. Fabricated the two air filter side attach angles and the back attach angle.


 
Aug 23, 2022     Battery box heat shield - (1.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Measured the battery box.
2. Cut a piece of reflective heat shield and applied it to the front side of the battery box, since the oil cooler air will dump into this vicinity. (I may end up applying some more to the top and bottom end of the box later.)


 
Aug 03, 2022     Intake snorkel sanding and priming - (1.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded and primed the intake snorkel again. It's looking pretty good this time.


 
Aug 02, 2022     Intake snorkel sanding/filling - (0.8 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded yesterday's filler. The finish on this part is almost ready for priming and painting. But just to fill some final pinholes, I mixed up a batch of straight resin and brushed it onto the areas with remaining pinholes. I'm hoping that once this sets up and gets sanded, the part will finally be ready to trim and prime.


 
Aug 01, 2022     Intake snorkel - (0.9 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded and filled some remaining area of the intake snorkel.


 
Jul 19, 2022     Intake snorkel - (1 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded and applied another shot of filler primer to the intake snorkel.


 
Jul 16, 2022     Intake snorkel - (0.5 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began sanding the filled pinholes in the intake snorkel.


 
Jul 15, 2022     Intake snorkel - (1.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Filled pinholes in the intake snorkel.
"Before" view is Photo 1.
"After" view is Photo 2.


 
Jul 14, 2022     Intake snorkel - (1.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded yesterday's filler and shot the first layer of sanding primer. Lots of pinholes to fill!


 
Jul 13, 2022     Intake snorkel; Oil cooler plenum - (1.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Sanded yesterday's filler on the intake snorkel, and added another batch of filler.
2. Added the rubber edge strip to the oil cooler plenum. The plenum is now ready for installation.


 
Jul 12, 2022     Intake snorkel; Oil cooler plenum - (1.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Sanded the first application of pinhole filler on the intake snorkel.
2. Added a second round of filler.

3. Did the final coat of high-temperature paint on the oil cooler plenum.


 
Jul 07, 2022     Oil cooler plenum and intake snorkel - (0.7 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Applied filler to the intake snorkel.
2. Sanded and painted the oil cooler plenum.


 
Jul 06, 2022     Filling/priming//sanding of oil cooler plenum & intake snorkel - (3.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Repeatedly sanded, filled and primed the oil cooler plenum. I found a new type of automotive spot filler that dries in 20 minutes and seems to be easier to sand than the Super-Fil I've been using.
2. Wet-sanded the exterior of the intake snorkel.


 
Jul 03, 2022     Oil cooler plenum - (0.7 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded last night's filler on the oil cooler plenum, and primed it. Still a few more pinholes to fill..


 
Jul 02, 2022     Oil cooler plenum -- pinhole filling - (0.8 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Mixed up some filler and applied it to the pinholes in the oil cooler plenum. Tomorrow I'll sand it, prime it again, and check for more pinholes.


 
Jul 01, 2022     Oil cooler plenum - (0.5 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Sanded and primed the oil cooler plenum to find out how bad the pinholes are. As expected, they're terrible! ;-)


 
Jun 20, 2022     Intake snorkel - (2.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Checked the fit of the latest revision to the snorkel. This one finally looks perfect!
2. Used a Dremel flapwheel, plus coarse and fine sandpaper, to smooth out the snorkel and all three new clearance blisters. Attached the snorkel to the fuel servo.
3. Installed the #2 cylinder baffle as much as possible, and began marking the snorkel for trimming it. There really is no way to do this process in a few steps. It looks like this will be very iterative and repetitive: Mark the snorkel, remove it, cut it, re-install it, check it, mark it again, etc.


 
Jun 18, 2022     Inlet snorkel - (1.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. The alternator clearance blister I remade yesterday was still just a little too close to the alternator mounting bracket, so I cut it off, enlarged the square hole, and glassed-in another blister that should finally create enough room.


 
Jun 17, 2022     Inlet snorkel - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut out half of the alternator clearance blister and re-glassed it to make more room for the mount bolts.
2. Sanded the edges of the patches.


 
Jun 16, 2022     Intake snorkel and oil cooler plenum - (3.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut off the flange of the snorkel to match the outline of the fuel servo inlet.
2. Drilled the four attachment holes and enlarged them to 1/4"
3. Test-fit the snorkel and once again checked all the clearances. Finalized the edges of the three holes where the clearance blisters will be created in the snorkel.
4. Rounded the corners of the attachment flange.
5. Used a flapper sander on a Dremel tool to smooth out the inside of the snorkel.
6. Scuffed the areas around the future clearance blisters.
7. Did the layoups for all three clearance blisters. I did two layups on each one -- I'll see how they come out, and decide whether to do another layer.

8. Used a flapper sander to smooth the outside and inside of the oil cooler plenum, in preparation for priming and painting it, Used Super-Fil filler to perfect some minor imperfections. [No photo yet.]


 
Jun 16, 2022     Canopy skirt - (0.2 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
My carbon fiber guru, Tim, had me review the final CAD design of our carbon fiber canopy skirt. He has been figuring out how to manufacture the mold, and he has now arrived at a great solution that he feels will work well. The mold will be a one-piece unit, but it will be manufactured in three pieces and bonded together. He has also figured out exactly how we'll do the vacuum bagging. Manufacturing of the production part should begin soon.


 
Jun 15, 2022     Intake snorkel - (3.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Fitted the intake snorkel into position on the front of the fuel servo, and checked all sides of it for interference. Identified and marked several locations that will have to be cut out and re-glassed with a small clearance blister:
a). Aft alternator mounting bolt,
b). Left mounting tab on the starter,
c). Mixture arm on the fuel servo.
2. Measured and cut a template out of thin cardboard that will be used to locate the four mounting holes that will attach the snorkel to the fuel servo.
3. Leveled the snorkel, then leveled the template and clamped it in place.


 
Jun 08, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (3.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Scuffed, cleaned and primed the interfaces between the shutter valve doubler ring and the baffle.
2. Riveted (most) of the doubler to the baffle. I left the outboard column of rivets out for now, becasue I'm not sure if I'll have to disassemble the baffle again to do the cowl fitting.
3. Did another trial fit of the shutter. I ended up making two minor revisions to the butterfly valve: 1. I bent the lower edge about 15 degrees to better match the angle of the baffle bend and 2). I remade the outboard shaft spacer to make sure the valve will never be able to shift and scrape on the edge of the baffle.


 
Jun 05, 2022     Cabin heat SCEET tube - (0.2 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Removed the black CEET tube I used as a placeholder while I did the rest of the engine installation, and replaced it with red SCEET tube.


 
May 28, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (0.9 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Drilled out and deburred all the doubler rivet holes.
2. Countersunk the #30 rivet holes.
3. Cleaned and prepped some of the various parts of the shutter assembly.
4, Marked and trimmed off the aft right corner of the #3 baffle where it interferes with the manifold pressure fitting.


 
May 27, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (1.9 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Fabricated several versions of the spacers for the oil cooler shaft. Fitted them to the shaft and adjusted the door.
2. Opened up and deburred the valve shaft pass-through hole in the baffle.
3. Sanded the base of the outboard lever arm mounting block to change its angle and therefore allow the arm to rotate more freely.
4. Bent the upper half of the butterfly door to approximately a 10 degree angle so the lever arm will be straight up and down when the door is closed.
5. Drilled the mounting hole for the cable arm holder, and test-fit the holder. [No photo]
6. Added resin around the edges of the aluminum door-stop I made yesterday, just to make sure it never gets loose. [No photo]


 
May 26, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (4.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut and fitted a very small aluminum angle to fit along the upper edge of the new blister cutout of the oil cooler plenum, and bonded it in place. This will act as a stop for the butterfly valve, to prevent it from cutting into the fiberglass plenum if I end up pulling the valve open too far.
2. Fitted the butterfly valve and shaft blocks in place, and made further locating marks in the approximate place they will go.
3. Taped the baffle doubler plate in place. Located, marked, spaced, and drilled the rivet attachment holes for the doubler.
4. Located, marked, drilled, and deburred the holes in the baffle for the spark plug pass-through and the R mag cooling hose flange.
5. Clecoed on the #3 cylinder baffle. Located and match-drilled the holes for the butterfly valve attach block.
6. Fitted the valve and checked for clearances.


 
May 24, 2022     Bulkhead hole-fillers, Oil cooler shutter - (1.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Put screws/nuts in three baggage compartment holes that were not used.
2. Filed the rough edges on the new fiberglass blister on the oil cooler plenum. Remounted the plenum and oil cooler and checked the fit of the butterfly valve. Added the #3 cylinder baffle. Marked the back baffle for the spark plug wire passthrough and the R magneto cooling hose flange.


 
May 23, 2022     Oil cooler shutter and valve - (2.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Fitted the aft-right baffle piece, then installed the oil cooler and plenum, to get an idea of how the oil cooler butterfly valve will need to be positioned.
2. Assembled the shutter valve arm and plate. Held the assembly in position on the front side of the valve cutout, and found that the valve makes contact with the plenum as it opens -- it cannot be opened more than about halfway.
3, Marked the point of contact, removed the plenum and cooler, and cut an opening in the plenum. Did this three times in order to creep up on the proper hole size and shape. Reinstalled everything to verify that the valve plate will clear the edges of the opening.
5. Prepped the plenum by scuffing and cleaning it.
5. Cut three rectangles of medium-weight fiberglass cloth. Mixed some West Systems epoxy resin and applied the three layers to the plenum, pushing out a bump in the cloth to give the valve the clearance it needs. I'll let this dry, and tomorrow we'll see how it works.


 
May 20, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (0.7 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Filed the opening in the baffle to exactly match that in the doubler ring.


 
May 19, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (1.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Carefully filed the baffle opening for the oil cooler shutter to get it pretty close to the right size and shape.


 
May 18, 2022     Oil cooler shutter - (3.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began building the oil cooler shutter:

1. Laid out and placed all the shutter parts on the back of the #3 baffle to get an idea of spacing and fitment. Marked the location of the shaft fittings on the sides of the future hole. Marked the location of the plenum opening. Figured out the proper location for the doubler skin.
2. Taped the doubler skin in place and traced how far it overhung the edge of the baffle.
3. Used the bandsaw to trim off the edge of the doubler.
4. Traced the opening of the doubler on the baffle.
5. Cut out the center opening through the baffle.
6. Began filing the rough edges of the baffle hole, and opening it up to the edges of the blue lines.


 
May 17, 2022     Magneto P-leads; Skin countersinking; Clamp protection - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Re-accomplished the L mag P-lead ring terminals, because I discovered that I had used two #8 rings instead of a #8 and a #10. Crimped rings on R magneto P-leads. Attached both P-leads to their respective mag terminals. Secured P-leads.
2. Countersunk the skin along the top edge where the top skin will overlap.
3. Used heatshrink on some of the worm clamps in the engine area, to protect hands from sharp edges.
4. My friend Jim did a firewall-forward inspection for me, giving his professional once-over and checking for any issues. Thanks, Jim! [No time entered].


 
May 17, 2022     Magneto P-leads - (1.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Added two Adel clamps on firewall to secure the sheathed P-leads. Changed out one existing clamp for a larger one to allow the leads to be added.
2. Cut the L lead to length, stripped the wire and sheath, crimped on ring terminals, installed heatshrink.


 
May 16, 2022     Magneto P-leads; CGT/EGT wire bundles; Smoke system lines - (3.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began installing the magneto P-leads. Ran them through some firesleeve and routed them to the approximate locations they will go. Planned the installation of a couple of final Adel clamps on the firewall to support them. Put some high-temp firewall sealant on the leads where they pass though the firewall.
2. Removed some tie-wraps and secured the EGT/CHT wire bundles on the #2 and #4 cylinder intake tubes with blue Adel clamps instead.
3. Secured one of the smoke oil lines to the engine mount with blue Adel clamps. Removed the other line and placed an order with AS Flightlines for a slightly longer one (14.5" vs. 12") to improve the routing of this line.


 
May 10, 2022     Top skin; Baggage door; Smoke system; CHT/EGT wires - (1.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Did a little more work pre-bending the edges of the top skin in areas where it needed just a little more.
2. Removed the blue plastic from the inner skin of the baggage door. Cleaned the skin.
3. Safety-wired the two smoke injector nozzles. Tightened the fittings on the smoke oil lines.
4, Finished securing the CHT and EGT wires to the intake tubes.


 
May 05, 2022     EGT probes; Smoke oil injectors - (4.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the remaining two EGT probes (cylinders #2 and #4).
2. Bundled and secured most of the remaining CHT and EGT probe wires. (I'm still waiting for one more #27 Adel clamp to complete this job.)

3. Trimmed the steel support bar of one of the smoke injectors to keep it clear of a pipe weld.
4. Located and drilled the two 3/8" holes in the #2 and #4 exhaust pipes for the smoke injectors.
5. Installed both injectors and temporarily attached the smoke oil lines to check their fit.


 
May 04, 2022     EGT probes - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Located and drilled holes in all four exhaust pipes for EGT probes.
2. Installed EGT probes for cylinders #1 and #3.
3. Cut off long ends of the steel clamps.
4. Stripped sensor wires and installed ring terminals.


 
May 03, 2022     Oil cooler, Spark plug leads, CHT/EGT leads - (4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the two 45-degree oil cooler fittings and clocked them appropriately.
2. Temporarily connected the two oil lines to the oil cooler to check clearances.
3. Secured several spark plug leads in various locations.
4. Changed out two #28 Adel clamps for #27 ones to get a better fit on the intake tubes.
5. Routed all eight CHT and EGT wires to their respective cylinders.
6. Installed #4 ring terminals and heat shrink to the CHT 2 and CHT 4 wires. Connected these to the CHT sensors.
7. Installed fire sleeve on all CHT/EGT wires on the part of their routing where they will be exposed to the hottest air.
8. Installed caterpillar edging on the edge of the prop governor bracket where there might be some future clearance issues for one of the oil lines. [No photo.]


 
Apr 30, 2022     Heat protection; Cabin heat hose - (2.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed ThermaFlect heat shield over several short lengths of wire bundles and the throttle cable.
2. Installed some Tefzel zip ties in several locations where I couldn't install wire lacing because of lack of access.
3. Test-fit a length of 2" SCAT tube where the red cabin-heat hose will pass through behind the intake tubes of cylinders #1 and #3. I wanted to make sure the hose would fit with all the other items that pass though there.


 
Apr 29, 2022     Oil cooler; Oil cooler lines; Smoke system lines - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Measured, marked and drilled the six mounting holes in the flanges of the oil cooler plenum.
2. Marked and trimmed the flange edges to match the edges of the oil cooler. Rounded the corners.
3. Temporarily mounted the oil cooler to its mount.
4. Connected both oil cooler lines to the engine.
5. Ran these lines to the vicinity of the oil cooler. (I was going to attach the two 45-degree fittings to the oil cooler, but I discovered that the ones provided to me today are aluminum, not steel.)
6. Spent a considerable amount of time securing and routing the two smoke oil lines. Tightened all fittings at the distribution Tee and the two check valves. Once I receive the second injector, I will install them and the smoke system (forward of the firewall) will be complete.


 
Apr 28, 2022     Oil breather line; Prop gov line; Ground strap; Misc. clamps - (3.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut aluminum tubing to length for the bottom section of the oil breather line.
2. Drilled a #30 "whistle-hole" in the tube, deburred it, and bent the top part of the hole inward to prevent excess oil seepage.
3. Completed the installation of the breather line by clamping the tube into the end of the oil line, then securing the aluminum tube to the engine mount with a pair of Adel clamps. The breather line ends between the two pairs of exhaust tubes, about 4" inside the cowling.
4. Installed a pair of clamps to secure the prop governor line to the #3 intake tube. (The large clamp is a #28, but I think I'll have to replace it with a #27 for a better fit.)
5. Installed the engine ground strap between the firewall and the engine case. Secured the strap with Adel clamps in two locations.
6. Improved the clearance of the smoke oil line by reversing a clamp. Made several other improvements in how things are clamped.
7. Installed a 1/4" bolt in a firewall hole that I drilled but ended up not using.


 
Apr 27, 2022     Firesleeve; Oil breather line; Ground straps - (3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Added firesleeve to the main fuel line that runs from the firewall to the engine-driven pump.

2. Continued the installation of the oil breather line. Secured it to the top bar of the engine mount, then curved the line down under the cabin heat box to the firewall. Here, I installed another Adel clamp to secure it. Next it will bend and point downward (probably using another clamp, unless I can find a tubing bender that will handle the large 5/8" aluminum tube that will be inserted into it.)

3. Replaced the too-short brass grounding bolt with a longer 1-1/2" one. Installed the aft ends of the engine grounding strap and the battery ground strap to this bolt.


 
Apr 26, 2022     Clamps - (0.5 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Changed out a set of white Adel clamps for a set of high-temperature blue ones. Improved the clearance of the fuel line they secure from the intake tube..


 
Apr 22, 2022     Clamps; Mag leads; Heat shields - (3.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Replaced a few more white Adel clamps with blue ones.

2. Routed and organized the eight mag leads. Removed the rubber cushioning from some #2 Adel clamps and drilled their mounting holes out to 1/4". Clamped the lower mag leads to the valve covers.

3. Added two heat shields -- one to the #1 cylinder exhaust where the throttle cable passes nearby, and one near the cabin heat box, where the unused heat from this valve will dump toward the fuel pressure line and the three engine control cables.

4. Added a standoff where the two oil pressure sensor lines pass near the main power wire from the alternator. [No photo.]

5. Slightly moved the throttle cable clamps to improve the cable's clearance from the cabin heat muff. [No photo.]


 
Apr 21, 2022     Crankcase breather; Oil cooler - (2.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began installing the "SlimeFighter" case breather unit. Initially, I attached the unit with its large, provided Adel clamp, but it soon became apparent that this would not give me the required slope from the case breather port to the outlet of the cannister. So I ditched the clamps and will install it a different way, using a couple more Adel clamps on the hoses, but none on the cannister itself.

2. Began final fitting of the oil cooler plenum. Taped it in place and measured for the six screw holes that will hold it, and the cooler, to the mount. Marked the aft baffle for the hole that will be cut for the oil cooler and butterfly valve.


 
Apr 20, 2022     Miscellaneous hoses; Exhaust system; Smoke system - (4.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed ring terminals on ends of fuel quantity sensor wires.
2. Replaced several white Adel clamps with high-temperature blue ones.
3. Tightened and torqued all engine sensor fittings and lines running to the firewall manifold.
4. Modified the smoke oil line installation to allow the two hoses to reach the exhaust pipes on cylinders 2 and 4. I think this will work better than trying to reach cylinders 1 and 2.
5. Re-installed the exhaust system and heat muff on cylinders 1 and 3.
6. Installed the 2" SCAT hose from the heat muff to the cabin heat valve, along with a 90-degree adapter for better clearance.
7. Modified the throttle Adel clamps to give better clearance from the heat muff. [No photo.]
8. Modified several wire runs and installed firesleeve on several short segments of wire. [No photo.]


 
Apr 19, 2022     Smoke system - (1 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began installing the two smoke oil distribution lines from the firewall "T" to the injectors.


 
Apr 16, 2022     Oil and fuel lines - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Firesleeved and installed the fuel pressure line from the fuel pump to the fuel pressure sensor.
2. Secured the line to the firewall with an Adel clamp.
3. Installed the main fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel servo.
4. Installed the oil pressure line from the engine to the "T" splitter.
5. Installed the oil line from the "T" to the oil pressure switch.
6. Installed the oil line from the "T' to the oil pressure sensor.
7. Secured the oil line to the firewall with another Adel clamp.
8. Ran the prop governor oil line (but did not attach it yet).


 
Apr 15, 2022     Firesleeving; Fuel servo; Torque-checking and marking - (4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Removed the throttle cable from fuel servo and installed firesleeve over the cable where it runs close to the exhaust pipes.
2. Re-secured the throttle cable to the engine mount with blue Adel clamps.
3. Removed white Adel clamps from cabin heat control at the cabin heat box. Installed silicone anti-creep tape to the cable, then re-installed the cable using blue Adel clamps. (This should prevent the control cable from creeping inside the clamp, which would allow the cabin heat valve to creep slightly open.)
4. Disconnected the mixture cable and fuel output line from the fuel servo, then removed the fuel servo.
5. Removed the old (original) fuel servo gasket and scraped off the old residue. Cleaned the surface, oiled the new gasket, and reinstalled the servo with a new gasket and new lockwashers.
6. Re-secured the fuel line, mixture cable and throttle cable to the fuel servo.
7. Installed cotter pins on all throttle and mixture connections.
8. Check torque and numerous fuel and mechanical connections forward of the cowl and applied torque seal. [No photo].


 
Apr 14, 2022     Manifold pressure sensor - (1.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Spliced the sensor wires for the manifold pressure sensor.
2. Heatshrinked the connections, bundled the excess wires, then laced and double-heatshrinked everything together.
3. Secured the bundle to the engine mount with two Adel clamps.


 
Apr 12, 2022     Wire cleanup; Firesleeving; Clamps; CHT sensors - (3.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Applied rubber insulating goop to the Stby Alternator power terminal.
2. Made the final connection for the "Starter On" light circuit, connecting the factory 12 AWG wire from the ATC fuse holder to the 20 AWG wire that runs to the light. (I made this connection by crimping both wires into one end of a yellow butt-splice connector, then heat-shrinking the whole thing.) Secured the bundle to the nearby alternator lead.
3. Added lacing to several wire bundles, as necessary.
4. Sheathed the rubber smoke oil line with firesleeve for its entire run forward of the firewall.
5. Removed the two black Adel clamps that were holding the main alternator cable to the engine mount. Installed blue, high-temperature clamps instead.
6. Installed all four CHT sensors into the cylinders.


 
Apr 11, 2022     Engine wiring; Smoke system plumbing - (5.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Firewall-forward wiring:
1. Crimped a 1/4" ring terminal to the end of the ground wire for the "Starter-On" light's spike diode. Attached it to a nearby engine case bolt.
2. Added heat shrink to the leads on the Manifold Pressure sensor. Prepped the wires for splicing.
3. Removed the lacing cords from the main bundle of wires that passes vertically by the battery box. Added the manifold pressure sensor line. Re-laced the wires. Enclosed them in a slit section of firesleeve. Sealed the firesleeve with Tefzel tie-wraps. Attached the firesleeve to the firewall with blue, high-temp Adel clamps.
4. Ran the "Starter-On" power line from the starter through a small firesleeve. Added stainless steel cinch clamps to each end. Routed this wire down behind the engine and secured it in several places with Adel clamps.
5. Re-routed several controls and wire runs to improve their placement.
6. Added Tefzel tie-wraps in several places to seal or secure other wiring firesleeves.

Smoke system:
7. Measured and cut the smoke oil hose to length. Installed a 1/4" barb to AN-4 fitting to the end of the hose. Attached it to the splitter "t" on the firewall.
8. Secured the smoke oil line near where it exits the firewall with a pair of Adel clamps.


 
Apr 05, 2022     Securing connections; Anti-chafe - (2.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Did some miscellaneous securing and anti-chafing treatments on various things near, or forward of, the firewall:

1. Removed a rubber connector boot from one of the large power wires that connects to the starter solenoid. (The boot has never fit well, and because of the solenoid's location, I think it would be impossible to make one fit well on that terminal). Instead, I applied the first of two coats of rubber insulating paste to the terminal tab and screw.

2. Installed rubber insulating paste to the connections on the two shunts and the two ANL current limiters.

3. Sealed the three hole plugs on the engine sensor manifolds. Torqued the plugs.

4. Tie-wrapped wiring in 5 or 6 locations.

5. Applied felt anti-chafe under the three GPS antenna coax leads inside the forward baggage compartment, where they had a slight potential to rub.


 
Mar 31, 2022     Smoke system; Oil temp wire bundle - (2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Bundled and secured the wires from the oil temperature sensor.
2. Installed barb-to-NPT fittings on the ends of the smoke oil line connector that will allow me to remove the smoke system from the aft baggage compartment when I need to.
3. Installed the smoke oil distribution "T" that I assembled yesterday on the firewall.
4. Assembled the smoke nozzles, stainless lines and check valves so I could measure them in preparation for fabricating some more stainless lines to connect to the "T".



 
Mar 30, 2022     Engine wiring; Smoke system plumbing - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began doing the smoke system installation forward of the firewall:
a). Attached three 45-degree fittings to a brass T-fitting.
b). Measured the assembly and sized Adel clamps to fit it.
c). Put the clamps in place around the fitting and measured the resulting distance between the clamps.
d). Drilled two holes in the firewall to attach the T-assembly.

2. Continued work on the engine wiring:
a). Secured the firesleeve around the alternator field lead splices.
b). Attached the bundle to the engine mount with two pairs of Adel clamps.
c). Secured the bundle of wires from the three engine sensors on the upper part of the firewall (oil pressure, oil pressure warning switch and fuel pressure).
d). Put two lengths of marine heat-shrink on the wires coming from the oil temperature sensor, to protect them. Stripped, spliced and heat-shrinked the connection from the oil temperature sensor to the GEA24. (These wires will be bundled and secured later).


 
Mar 29, 2022     Engine wiring - (1.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut the wires on the Oil Pressure and Fuel Pressure sensors to length.
2. Crimped on spade connectors.
3. Made the connections and double heat-shrinked them.
4. Applied liquid electrical tape to the exposed connector tabs on the Oil Pressure switch.


 
Mar 27, 2022     Engine wiring - (1.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Some minor miscellaneous projects today:

1. Added a pair of Adel clamps to help secure the cabin oil cooler cable.
2. Added some therma-flect shield over the two bundles of alternator wires I made yesterday.
3. Added ring terminals to the oil pressure switch wires. Connected them to the switch.


 
Mar 26, 2022     Engine wiring - (3.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Worked on the firewall-forward wiring:

1. Spliced the Main Alternator and Stby Alternator field leads. Heat-shrinked and bundled them into two bundles that will be attached to the engine mount with Adel clamps.
2. Removed the top skin to give better access to the back of the firewall so I could add another Adel clamp.
3. Deburred all the new holes in the fuselage and cleaned off the blue index marks used to drill the holes.
4. Added the clamp at the top left part of the firewall to hold the fire-sleeved wires running to the engine sensors.
5. Added another pair of clamps on the engine mount to hold the end of the firesleeve.
6. Twisted and heat-shrinked the wires coming out of the Oil Pressure and Fuel Pressure sensors. [No photo]
7. Attached a 90-degree AN fitting to the main fuel line, then attached the fuel line at both ends.


 
Mar 23, 2022     Engine wiring - (4.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
I got a lot done on the firewall-forward wiring today:

1. Organized and ran a couple of wiring bundles through the Adel clamps.
2. Located and drilled another hole in the firewall for an additional Adel clamp.
3. Sheathed the bottom bundle (the one that runs along the bottom of the firewall) with firesleeve.
4. Clamped it in place with the Adel clamps I installed yesterday.
5. Measured, cut and attached a ring terminal to the Standby Alternator lead, and attached it to the Stby shunt.
6. Finalized the connection on the Stby Alternator.
7. Improved the angles of several ring terminal connections.
8. Attached the Main Alternator lead to the Main shunt.
9. Sheathed the vertical run of wires that will go up the left edge of the firewall in firesleeve. Clamped it in one of two locations.
10. Prepped several other wires for being spliced with butt terminals.


 
Mar 22, 2022     Engine wiring - (3.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Spent all evening working on firewall-forward wiring:

1. Separated and routed wires in the general direction they'll be going.
2. Added a second set of wire labels to the CHT/EGT thermocouple wires to help keep things organized.
3. Split the CHT/EGT wires into Cylinder 1/3 wires and Cylinder 2/4 wires, so I can start to route them appropriately.
4. Ran the two sets of wires for the Standby Alternator into rough position. Loosely connected the power lead's ring terminal to the Stby Alternator.
5. Installed four of the Adel clamps that will hold the wires as they run across the face of the firewall in various locations. (One of the screw holes required getting VERY creative with a hex-fitting angle attachment, a tool I'd forgotten I had! It's amazing what you find in your toolbox sometimes.)

Final installation of the various wire bundles on the firewall will have to wait until I get the fire sleeve tubing from Pegasus Racing that I ordered last week.


 
Mar 21, 2022     Cale/wire protection - (0.7 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
My shop time was limited to a quick project to protect the electrical wires from the adjacent cabin heater cable as they pass through one of the firewall passthroughs. I slit a thick clear tube, then slid it over the cabin heat cable. Then I pushed the tube through the firewall so it protrudes evenly on both sides, and secured it with Tefzel tie-wraps.


 
Mar 19, 2022     Engine wiring - (1.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Located and drilled 8 holes in the firewall for the Adel clamps that will hold varioius engine and sensor wires.

2. Installed two more pairs of Adel clamps securing the main alternator wires.


 
Feb 04, 2022     Throttle cable bracket - (0.9 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
The throttle cable bracket came back from the powder coating place, so I installed it, safety-wired it, and reinstalled the throttle cable.


 
Feb 02, 2022     Throttle cable bracket - (2.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Finished the fabrication of the new throttle cable bracket:

1. Marked the bend lines using the original cardboard template.
2. Formed the 90-degree bend by starting the bend on my bending brake. Then, to get a more gentle bend radius, I hammered the rest of the bend over the rounded edge of my workbench.
3. Next, I made the two offset bends. I held the part up to the engine and tweaked the bends a bit. I also trimmed off a bit from the top.
4, Drilled all three holes, taking special care to move one of the attachment holes to turn the bracket slightly inward (about 5 degrees) compared to the previous version. Deburred all holes.
5. Sanded the edges and generally cleaned up the part, in preparation for having it powder-coated.


 
Feb 01, 2022     Throttle cable bracket #2 - (0.7 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began fabricating another throttle cable bracket out of 0.063" steel plate. This one will improve the throttle travel from "pretty good" to "perfect," by reducing the angle-off of the cable end as it exits the cable housing.


 
Jan 25, 2022     Recharge dehydrator plugs - (0.4 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Removed the four dehydrator plugs and changed out the desiccant beads, since they were starting to look somewhat pink. The photo shows the 'before' and 'after' colors.


 
Jan 23, 2022     Fuel line through baffle; Sensor wiring - (1.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the fuel line that goes between the fuel servo and the fuel distributer (spider). Located and drilled a pilot hole in the baffle with a long, 12-inch bit, then opened it up to 3/4" with a step-drill. Deburred the hole and installed a high-temperature gasket. Squeezed the fuel line fitting through the gasket and connected it to the spider. Test-fit the other end to the fuel servo, then disconnected it for now. (It will be reattached after I replace the servo gasket).

2. Organized and re-routed the wires that will connect to the Fuel Pressure sensor, Oil Pressure sensor, and Oil Pressure Switch. These will be secured with Adel clamps on the firewall and sheathed with firesleeve.


 
Jan 19, 2022     Throttle arm cotter pin - (0.1 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Now that I'm pretty sure the throttle arm is in the proper position, I torqued its castle nut and installed the special stainless-steel cotter pin.


 
Jan 17, 2022     Fuel servo hardware replacement; Quadrant cables - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Since I had re-clocked the throttle arm on the fuel servo a few days ago, I was required to use a brand-new locking nut -- a special type you can only get from a few sources (including McFarlane Aviation, for $7.45 + tax & shipping). I tightened that sucker down, and now it's not going anywhere.

2. Continued installing the throttle quadrant and cables by first opening up the rest of the triangle hole in the gear tower.

3. Re-installed the cables through the tower and inserted them into the quadrant's cable-holder. They fit, and I was able to slide the quadrant "side box" into position! Hallelujah.

4. Located and drilled the #21 hole in the throttle arm where the rear seat throttle pushrod will attach.

5. Assembled the front seat quadrant to check whether the cables will have sufficient reach and flex to connect to the quadrant arms -- and that's when I discovered an issue. The throttle and mixture cables are mounted in the top two holes of the cable holder, and it appears they will flex enough to connect to their respective control arms. It appears, however, the prop governor cable will not flex enough to reach the hole on the prop governor control arm. I thought about drilling another hole in the arm, but the governor on the engine needs every bit of the 2" of throw that hole provides. Drilling a hole any lower on the arm will restrict the needed throw of the cable. So somehow, I need to tilt the prop cable upwards about 5 degrees. Either that, or figure out another way to secure it. I am considering making some kind of tapered shim or beveled washer.

The fifth photo shows the problem. The caliper is showing the highest point the prop cable will reach, which is 1-13/16" below the top of the throttle quadrant. The hole is 1-5/8" below the top of the quadrant.


 
Jan 16, 2022     Fuel inlet fitting - (0.2 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Re-installed and properly clocked the main fuel inlet fitting on the fuel spider.


 
Jan 15, 2022     Engine controls - (2.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
I received my new fuel servo today, which was perfect timing, because it's time to get the engine controls fitted once and for all. The new servo looks great, but I did note that the main fuel inlet is on the opposite side from my old one -- so I will either have to switch it to the other side or order a different fuel line. Also, the fuel outlet fitting needs to be re-clocked slightly.

1. Temporarily installed the fuel servo onto the engine.

2. Re-clocked the fuel outlet fitting to point toward the right side of the engine.

3. Loosened and re-clocked the mixture arm, and adjusted the length of the mixture bellcrank rod end so that the control cable will give it full throw, stop-to-stop. After tightening it all down, I found that moving the mixture control from the cockpit results in a really nice, glassy-smooth action. I love it.

4. Loosened and re-clocked the throttle arm, and adjusted the hardware to give full throw of the throttle. This cable is not quite as smooth as the mixture, and I know why. My cable support arm forces the cable end to swing almost to its maximum throw of 10 degrees off-axis. It's acceptable, but I may have to remake this bracket just to make things perfect.

5. Now that all the engine cables have been connected and their geometry established, I was able to measure the required throws of these components. This will help me establish where to drill the holes in the lever arms of the cockpit quadrant. I assembled the throttle quadrant on the tabletop and measured the total available throw of the levers. (In order to make sure the controls hit the stops on the engine end before they hit the quadrant stops, I subtracted about 1/16" from the available throw numbers. This helped me mark where the holes will be drilled.)


 
Jan 14, 2022     Fuel spider fitting; Throttle cable bracket - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. After almost a week, and three sprays of PB Blaster solvent, the 90-degree fitting on the fuel spider finally came loose with a good tug. I removed and cleaned it, and also cleaned the spider inlet. It's ready to reinstall, clocked to the 6 o'clock position instead of the 9 o'clock position. I'll use Loctite 567 instead of whatever iron-laced cement paste the folks at AeroSport used.

2. I got my newly-cut-out throttle bracket back from the machine shop. It needed a fair amount of trimming, filing, and some slight additional bending (as I knew it would). I even had to modify it slightly from my original design, discovering after the fact that one of the two mounting holes wasn't quite where I wanted it. (This is why there's a notch on one side of the bracket. That was where the incorrect hole was drilled. It won't really be visible, and won't affect the part's strength, so I'm okay with it.) I fitted the bracket at it looks like it will work okay. So it's off to the powder-coater soon.


 
Jan 03, 2022     Mixture control; Throttle cable bracket - (2.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. I got the newly powder-coated mixture bellcrank from the powder-coaters, and it looks great. I installed it on the case, then installed the bellcrank arm.

2. After doing this, my suspicions about my engine setup were confirmed -- the Silverhawk EX fuel servo was built with a reversed mixture setup because that's what both AeroSport and Vans specify for the IO-360. However, MY fuel servo has its mixture control arm on the bottom instead of the top, and the bellcrank connection arm will not reach the servo. I can't move the servo arm to the top of the throw because that would reverse its function. I could bypass the mixture bellcrank entirely and run the mixture cable right to the servo arm, but again, that would cause the mixture function to be backwards. So I have no option but to send my fuel servo back to Precision Airmotive to have them set it up properly so I can have the arm on top and also use the Vans mixture bellcrank to reverse the motion. This is not a modification that can be done in the field. I will be contacting them tomorrow to figure out how to proceed.

At this point I am months behind on this project, and this puts me even further behind.

[ADDENDUM: Precision Airmotive pointed out that AeroSport Power should have installed a 200HP servo on my engine, not the 180HP one I have. My AeroSport warranty is long over, so I'm kind of SOL with getting any corrective action from them. So I started over and ordered a brand-new 3015006-1 servo from Precision. It will take a week or so to get here.]

3. In frustration, I did at least one productive thing -- I installed a BNC connector on my last GPS antenna coax, connected all three connectors to their antennas, and secured the cables on the firewalll and antenna shelf.

4. Today, I also took my sheet of 4130 steel to a machine shop to have them cut out my throttle bracket for me. While I was there, I figured I'd also ask them to just go ahead and bend and/or weld it for me. I'll drill the holes myself. I need to contract out more of this project!


 
Jan 02, 2022     Throttle cable support bracket - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Used a series of templates to develop a throttle cable support bracket that will attach to my Superior sump. Unfortunately, I had to begin by removing the exhaust pipes for the right two cylinders. This is the only way to get access to the attachment holes on the sump.
2. My first template was made of aluminum, but after working with it for a while, I realized it would be far quicker to use cardboard. I cut out three successive carboard templates, making improvements each time. #3 seems to be a winner. I traced it onto 0.063" 4130 steel sheet, and I'll cut it out tomorrow.


 
Jan 01, 2022     Engine control cables & brackets - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the mixture control cable bracket on top of the engine sump.
2. Ran the prop governor cable through the firewall to the throttle quadrant,
3. Ran the mixture cable through the firewall and positioned it alongside the prop cable. Began working out how I will make these two cables work at their present lengths (which are just slightly too long.) I think they will both work fine -- I'll just have to curve them slightly, forward of the firewall..
4. Re-measured the throttle cable to make sure it will work at its present length.
5. Began creating a throttle control cable bracket that will attach the lower right side of the sump. Began by fabricating a test article out of .025" aluminum and attaching it with a 1/4 screw. (I will make the final piece out of steel, of course.)


 
Dec 20, 2021     Prop governor bracket and cable - (3.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Finished the "front end" fitting of the prop governor cable bracket and cable:

1. Located and clamped the 90-degree cable holder angle to a new location on the bracket that should allow my existing cable be to used without issues.
2. Match-drilled the angle to the bracket.
3. Cut off the excess portion of the bracket.
4. Mounted the bracket to the governor.
5. Attached the rod end bearing to the cable.
6. Made several test-fittings of the cable to adjust the bearing and cable attach screws, in order to get full range of motion of the control arm.
7. I ended up changing how the rod-end attach hardware is used, since there is no way to install an AN3-11A bolt from the back without removing the governor arm. I also didn't like the simple locknut that Vans calls for on this bolt, so I changed it to an AN3-11, a castle nut, and a cotter pin.


 
Dec 19, 2021     Prop governor cable bracket; Mixture bellcrank - (2.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. After some recent bafflement about how I would come up with a prop governor cable bracket, I recently ordered a part to use as a backup to my primary plan. The backup part arrived today, and I decided to try it instead of the custom bracket I've been making. After some fiddling with it, I noted that it didn't lay flat against the governor housing because of a lip on the housing. I determined that two washers per attach point would probably work, but they would need to have a flat side for clearance. So the first order of business was to grind down six washers. I then stuck two washers onto the bracket at each mounting hole, using Fuel Lube.

2. I mounted the cable bracket using the stock M4 screws, but substituting #8 star washers. While the mounting screws were loose, I took the opportunity to rotate the governor housing so that the control arm was in the proper "clocking" for the cable. Then, figuring this bracket will definitely work well, I tightened all six screws. (Safety-wiring these screws will take place after I'm 100% sure that the governor clocking is correct.)

3. I tentatively mounted the cable tab at the end of the bracket arm. Again, I will tighten its hardware when I'm sure that the control cable will be positioned correctly.

4. Did a few more minutes of filing on the mixture control bellcrank and the auxiliary oil plug on the engine case. The bellcrank now fits great. I just need to have it fully stripped and powder-coated.

5. Took the bellcrank to a friend's hangar and bead-blasted it. Unfortunately, the fine media in the blaster wouldn't touch some of the existing powder-coating, so I'll have to address that tomorrow.


 
Dec 18, 2021     Mixture bellcrank; Prop governor cable bracket - (2.6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut out last two remaining small steel pieces for the mixture bellcrank.
2. My friend Tim Tig-welded all three of the steel pieces to the bellcrank. I spent some time filing the welds, then removing as much of the powder-coating as I could and prepping the bellcrank for priming and painting. (I will remove the rest of the powder coating tomorrow in a blasting cabinet at the EAA hangar.)
3. Traced the unbent prop governor cable bracket onto thin cardboard, then cut the shape out and cut/bent the cardboard into an approximation of its final shape. I used this template to see how the part will fit. In doing so, I found that I may have to re-clock the governor by 90 degrees in order to make the best use of the space I have available.


 
Dec 17, 2021     Mixture and prop governor brackets; Inspection plates - (2.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Cut out a small plate of 4130 steel to use as a stiffener piece for the mixture bellcrank that I had to file down so it would fit on my engine case. This small piece will be welded on shortly. Test-fit the piece to the bellcrank. Began grinding off the powder-coating on the bellcrank.

2. Took delivery of the beautiful prop governor cable bracket that my friend Tim had water-jet cut for me. I will bend it and have it powder-coated, and it should be ready to install.

3. Finished cutting out the holes in the inspection plate covers (See 12/16/21 entry.)


 
Dec 15, 2021     Starter modification; Firewall fuel passthrough - (2.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Finished cutting off the lower (unused) mounting tab of the starter, to make it easier to mount the snorkel. Filed and sanded the remaining stub so it's smooth.
2. Used the doubler I made a few weeks ago to match-drill the firewall. Deburred the doubler and firewall holes, then riveted the doubler in place using self-sealing steel rivets. Installed the passthrough fuel fitting.


 
Dec 11, 2021     Mixture bellcrank; Cowl spacing; Prop/spinner fit check - (4.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. After quite a bit of filing and trimming, plus using a Vixen file to thin-out an oil plug on the sump, the mixture bellcrank bracket will now fit my engine. (I will still need to weld on some pieces to the bellcrank to make the two flat plates into a C-channel, for strength.) At last now I know the modified bellcrank idea should work.
2. I decided it was time to get some precise measurements for the prop, spinner and cowl. So, with the help of my friend Tim, we mounted the propeller for the first time. I placed the spinner and the upper cowl in place, just to get an idea of the "look" of the airplane. I must say, I am really excited by how it's going to look with the 3-blade prop and large spinner!
3. After taking a slew of measurements, I removed the prop and spinner, attached the special cowl-fitting jig, and set the prop-flange-to-spinner-backplate distance. This allowed me to definitively clamp the cowl to the jig fixture and start to determine where the rear cowling trim line will be.
4. My canopy skirt guru Tim (a different Tim) sent me photos and videos of the foam mold being cut on a CNC machine. We should have a test skirt very soon!


 
Dec 10, 2021     Engine sensors; Wire passthrough; Mixture bellcrank mod - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Mounted three engine sensors to sensor block.
2. Began permanent installation of fireproof wire passthroughs.
3. Began filing down the mixture control bellcrank for use on my engine.


 
Dec 09, 2021     Mixture and throttle control brackets - (2.9 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Assembled the stock Van's mixture control bracket assembly (Photo 2) and held it up where it's supposed to go (Photo 3) -- only to find that, on my engine, it will have to be extensively modified to work correctly. There is a large block on the sump case with an oil port in it (Photo 1), and this means I'll have to strip off the powdercoating, grind off a significant portion of the bellcrank, cut reinforcement pieces, and weld them on. Then the bellcrank parts will have to be re-primed and repainted.
2. Similarly, almost none of the stock Vans support angles will work for my throttle cable or mixture cables, so I'll have to get some mild steel sheet and fabricate my own. I might also have to remove the right two exhaust tubes just so I can mount a cable clamp for the throttle.
3. I also have to figure out how to reverse the orientation of the mixture control arm, which is currently pointing downward, but needs to be pointing upward.

And people wonder why it's taking me so long to built this airplane...


 
Nov 25, 2021     Baffles; Cowl initial look - (1.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Removed all baffles in preparation for fitting cowl.

2. Placed upper cowl on to do an initial fit and test the jig tool.


 
Nov 24, 2021     Engine sensor AN fittings; Sensor wiring - (2.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Temporarily installed the three 45-degree AN fittings on the engine sensor block, just to check their clearances and which installation angle will work for each one. I used swivel fittings in order to make this task easier.

2. Fabricated and installed the sensor leads for the Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature and Manifold Pressure. Ran the leads through the firewall. There are just a couple more connections to make inside the avionics "hell-hole," then I will finalize the installation of the fireproof wire pass-throughs and get to work on the top skin.


 
Nov 23, 2021     Cowl fitting tool; Engine sensor wiring - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Learned how to use the special cowl fitting tool I purchased a couple of years ago. Made various measurements of the prop hub and spinner to get an idea of where the spinner backing plate will need to be located, and whether I'll need a spacer/prop extension.

2. Measured, fabricated, and installed the wiring harness for the CHT and EGT sensors. I cut all the leads two feet longer than I think I will need, and used a heat-shrink labeler to mark everything on both ends. I also fabricated and labeled the fuel pressure lead.


 
Nov 22, 2021     Cabin heat muff; spinner tool; engine probe leads - (3.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Moved the two exhaust hanger rods to make sure I can later attach the cabin heat SCAT tubes. They are now angled outboard and attached to different tubes on the engine mount. Tightened down all exhaust attach hardware.

2. Most of the evening was spent installing the cabin heat muff. You definitely have to wrestle that thing a bit to get everything lined up right. But it's on there now, and it looks good!

3. I have realized that I will need to get the cowling installed before I work any more on the baffling, oil cooler, etc., since those things depend on me knowing the clearance I'll have from the cowl. To start the process, I temporarily installed the baseplate of a special spacer jig onto the engine. This tool will help me get the spinner and cowling aligned later. I will need to find some prop bolts in order to continue.

4. The next realization: In order to mount the cowling, the firewall can't be floppy at the top -- which means I need to permanently install the forward top skin. And I was delaying THAT because of the engine wiring I still have to install down in the avionics "hell-hole." So now it's time to hook up all the engine sensors -- or at least hook them up at the GEA 24 engine analyzer unit, and run the wires forward through the firewall. So I began that project by measuring the needed wire lengths for the Type K thermocouple wire (CHT and EGT) and starting to cut each sensor lead. I'm adding two feet onto each wire for contingencies.

5. Placed the order for my custom oil, fuel, and manifold pressure lines from Aircraft Specialty ("AS Flightlines") in Oconomowoc, WI. All of the lines except the MP sensor line will have an integral firesleeve. They were really nice and very knowledgeable. (When you're spending over $100 per hose on critical engine connections, it's good to talk to the people doing the work, and Steve seemed very competent and sharp.)


 
Nov 21, 2021     Manifold pressure sensor; Cabin heat muff - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed a pressure transducer mount onto the upper right arm of the engine mount. Installed the Manifold Pressure sensor.

2. Took final measurements for the fuel and oil lines that will be manufactured shortly.

3. Began installing the cabin heat muff. I immediately found that the stamped end plates did not fit, because the pipes from Cylinders #1 and #3 were slightly too close together. In accordance with the instructions, I loosened up the pipes and all mounting hardware, but the spacing was still at least 1/8" off. I began filing and grinding on the end plate to reduce the size of the tab between the pipes. This still wasn't nearly enough. After some investigation, I noted that the previously-installed mounting saddles for Cylinders #2 and #4 were pretty close to the correct width apart, so I disassembled the whole exhaust mount system and swapped the saddles. This took care of half the problem -- the aft-most end plate now fit, but it took a lot more grinding and filing to get the front one to fit. It's not glove-tight, but I think it should work.

4. After clecoing the muff skin to see how it all fits, I discovered that the right side support arm I'd previously installed will not allow the SCAT tubing to be installed on the muff. So the arms will have to be moved back to the way I originally had them, splayed out at a 30-degree angle and attached to a different bar on the engine mount.


 
Nov 16, 2021     Engine fittings; Oil cooler plenum - (1.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Removed a plug and Installed a sniffle valve at the bottom of the case.
2. Filed, sanded, and fitted the oil cooler plenum to the back of the Cylinder #3 baffle. It nearly fits -- now it just needs a bit of space for the rubber edge seal.

[Photo of yesterdays' installation of the T-fitting and restrictor fitting on the fuel pump was added to today's entry.]


 
Nov 15, 2021     Oil cooler plenum and mount; Baffle supports; Engine fittings; Measurements - (6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began fitting the 45-degree oil cooler plenum by cutting off the side tabs so it will lay flat on the oil cooler. Clecoed the plenum to the cooler to check and refine its fit. Temporarily mounted the oil cooler to its mount. Trimmed the plenum at least four times, carefully approaching the right shape so it will fit in position behind the #3 cylinder baffle. It's getting close.

2. Installed the upper-aft baffle mount to the engine case. Match-drilled and clecoed the aft upper baffle to it. Bent the nearby fuel distribution line to clear the notch in the mount. Tightened down all three case bolts and torqued them back to 96 in/lbs.

3. Installed an AN-4 flare fitting in the manifold pressure port on Cylinder #3.

4. Removed the stock 90-degree AN fitting in the fuel pump and installed a Tee-fitting. This will allow me to connect the fuel pressure sender line at this point. Installed a restrictor fitting in the Tee. [Photo will be added at tomorrow's entry.]

5. Took measurements for 11 different fuel, oil and manifold pressure lines I'll need. I intend to have them manufactured by AS Flightlines. [No photo.]


 
Nov 14, 2021     Oil cooler mount; Engine baffles - (3.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Loosely mounted the oil cooler mount to the engine mount to check clearances.
2. Riveted several attach angles and stiffeners to the baffle pieces.
3. Fit and trimmed the #3 cylinder baffle to the engine. This took quite a few iterations to get it right, especially at the top of the engine case. (It's still not exactly right, but it's getting there.)
4. Attached all the other major components of the baffling to the engine to check the fit. One hole on the back of the #3 baffle had to be elongated slightly to get things to fit, but otherwise everything worked pretty well.
5. Attached the top front attach angle to the case. The top rear one will be attached shortly, once I get the aft part of the #3 baffle to fit right.


 
Nov 12, 2021     Engine baffles - (2.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Continued building the engine baffles:

1. Finished basic construction of both forward baffles for Cylinders #1 and #2. Fitted them to the engine. I had to do quite a bit of filing on the #1 part to get it to clear the aft edge of the starter ring gear and the alternator belt, and I also removed the prop governor line to accommodate it. I don't care for the thick rubber cover on the existing governor line, and I think I will have a new one made while the other engine hoses are being made.

2. Primed and painted some baffling attach brackets.

3. Began laying out the parts for the oil cooler shutter on the back of the #3 cylinder baffle.


 
Nov 10, 2021     Engine baffles; Fuel pump drain; breather fitting/lines - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Continued building engine baffles, mostly the Cylinder 1 forward baffle and some of the engine case attach points. I also prepped a few of the parts for the Cylinder 2 forward baffle. I had to notch the forward case bracket so the fuel injector line for Cylinder 4 would clear it.

2. Installed the drain fitting into the engine-driven fuel pump.

3. Cut and prepped the breather hoses. Reinstalled the stock breather fitting into the case. This will be the easiest way for me to use the air/oil separator I want to use.


 
Nov 09, 2021     Engine baffling; Prop governor bracket. - (4.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Continued building the engine baffling:

1. Assembled the baffles for Cylinders 2 and 1, including trimming each one to fit its specific cylinder, fabricating doublers, filing and polishing the edges of all parts, and riveting on the valve cover attachment doublers,

2. I need to reposition a few things to make room for the 45-degree oil cooler plenum behind Cylinder #3, so I have ordered a few parts from Vans. (The way things are going with them, I should have the parts by Christmas.)

3. I also researched how to get (or make) a prop governor cable bracket. A few years ago, Vans discontinued the part (VA-183) that will work with my governor, and the one they now provide will need extensive modification to work. However, a guy in Arizona designed the perfect part. He doesn't build them, but he does make his engineering drawing available online. So I may have to fabricate the thing myself. In case I end up doing that, I ordered some squares of 0.063" 4130 steel plate.


 
Nov 08, 2021     Engine baffling - (4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Continued working on the #4 cylinder baffle. Trimmed the 0.063" stiffener I fabricated yesterday so it would perfectly match the outboard piece of the baffle. Assembled and clecoed all parts, then took it all apart and deburred and polished everything. Reassembled to check fit. Located and drilled the holes for the custom top-left spark plug wire pass-through (which is different from stock. It's a 3D-printed part I had printed from a service online.) I had to notch the oil cooler stiffener box flange to make it work. I'm not mounting my oil cooler behind cylinder #4, and the stiffener box is superfluous, so there are no repercussions for making this notch. The structure of the #4 baffle is now basically complete, other than trimming. Most of it will be riveted together once it is mounted on the engine.

2. Started assembling the #3 cylinder baffle. Clecoed all parts together, drilled all rivet holes to final size, Deburred some parts. Located and drilled attach holes for SCAT tube flange. Located and drilled the holes for the top-right spark plug wire pass-through.

I am looking into powder-coating the baffling when I'm done -- possibly a silver color. The people that have done this say it stays looking good for many, many years -- although I wonder about how easy it is to detect cracks.


 
Nov 07, 2021     Engine baffling; Fuel fitting doubler; Engine sensor mount - (5.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began building the baffling. Opened and inventoried the parts in Vans baffle kit. This looks like a really nice kit.
2. Cut, trimmed and polished about a dozen small parts including stiffeners, attach brackets, and air dams.
3. Began trimming and riveting the #4 cylinder baffle. Got it fitting pretty well around the valve cover and its gasket.
4. Began fabricating a 0.063" thick doubler plate which will be riveted to the firewall where the main fuel line passes through.
5. Fabricated three spacers to go between the engine sensor mount and the firewall. This will make installation of the three sensors a lot easier, from what I've read. Installed the spacers and tightened the attach hardware.


 
Nov 05, 2021     Standby alternator conversion & installation; GPS mount - (4.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Converted the standby alternator with an extended shear coupler to allow it to be used with a 0.75" spacer. (This spacer is necessary because of the previous installation of a 1.25" oil filter adapter spacer.)
2. Removed the old mounting studs and installed new, longer studs for the alternator.
3. Installed the newly-lengthened standby alternator on the engine. (For future builders who might be reading this, the bottom-left washers and nut are perhaps the hardest items to reach on the entire airplane. It took all of the tools shown in the last photo to get it done, and it took the better part of an hour just to get the nut started on the stud! To tighten it, I ended up turning the nut 1/64th of a turn at a time with a repeating sequence of tools as follows: A 7/16" combination box/open wrench (each end in turn), then a 7/16" slotted crowfoot wrench. Good luck! (If you can find one of those Snap-On curved wrenches, that might help.)
4. Attached the GPS antenna mount to the firewall loosely, to check the clearances from the alternator. Everything looks good.


 
Nov 04, 2021     Engine breather port - (0.4 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Got the brass breather port removed.


 
Nov 03, 2021     Engine breather - (0.9 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
I have an idea for a way to improve the engine breather port so it doesn't aim directly at the engine mount. It will require removing the current brass port and replacing it with a swivel AN angle and a 90-degree hose barb fitting. The first step was to remove the brass port, which was a multi-day effort involving spraying it with "PB Blaster" penetrating oil and hammering on a box wrench to get it loose!


 
Nov 02, 2021     Exhaust final installation - (1.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Completed the installation of the exhaust system by tweaking the positions of the hanger pieces and tightening all the hardware.


 
Nov 01, 2021     Standby alternator conversion prep; Exhaust support arms - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Inventoried and studied on preparation for converting the standby alternator. I will be installing and extended shear coupling, replacing the existing engine studs, and a couple of other tasks, and I wanted to make sure I understood the process. The instructions that came with the spacer kit are essentially non-existent.

2. Moved the exhaust support arms to a different section of the engine mount, in order to give it the proper angle. (These arms should be angled mostly fore-aft.) I had to trim 3" off the arms to do this -- 1" off the forward piece, and 2" off the aft piece.)


 
Oct 26, 2021     Exhaust mounting; Mounting hardware fabrication - (3.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Mounted the left two exhaust pipes.
2. Began fabricating and assembling the lower exhaust attach hardware.


 
Oct 23, 2021     Exhaust mounting - (3.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Since the exhaust pipes now look so nice, I decided to clean up the exhaust mounting brackets, too. I know they won't stay that way, but it feels good to have them start out gleaming.
2. Installed the first two exhaust pipes in the left side.


 
Oct 21, 2021     Oil filter adapter; Exhaust - (3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the B&C 90-degree oil filter adapter and its 1.25" spacer.
2. Re-safetied the tach drive cover.
3, I had the 8 pipes of the exhaust system electro-polished, and I must say they look amazing. The work was performed by EMI (Electro-Max, Inc.) of Hampshire, IL.


 
Oct 17, 2021     Oil filter adapter spacer; Oil temp sensor - (2.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Prepped the 1.25" spacer for the B&C 90-degree oil filter adapter. (This allows it to fit on an RV-8 without the filter being blocked by the engine mount).
2. Installed and safetied the oil temperature sensor just above the Vernatherm.


 
Oct 12, 2021     Exhaust prep - (1.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Prepped the various exhaust pieces.

(I have learned about a process called electro-polishing, and I'm looking into it.)


 
Oct 11, 2021     Exhaust support components - (2.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Bent up the ends of the exhaust lower support straps.
2. Located and drilled the 1/4" holes for the attach bolts in the support hangers.


 
Oct 09, 2021     Engine nuts; exhaust assembly; alternator - (4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed the cotter pins in the other two engine castle nuts.
2. Began assembling and prepping the various components of the exhaust system. Fabricated the two lower support arms.
3, Removed the standby alternator in preparation for installing a 0.75" spacer/extension on it. (This will allow it to clear the B&C 90-degree oil filter extension.)


 
Oct 08, 2021     Engine nuts - (0.8 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Replaced the low-profile nuts with the proper-sized ones. Installed cotter pins on two of the nuts.


 
Oct 04, 2021     Hung engine - (3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Today was a big day in the project. With the help of my friends Jim and Tim, we hung the engine. We followed the conventional guidance from the VAF community, and it all seemed to work out pretty well.

I couldn't locate the four nuts, so for the time being I used four thin-profile nuts. I'll replace them when I find the proper ones.


 
Oct 03, 2021     Engine Prep: Magnetos; Tach drive cover; Hoist - (3.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Prepped engine for hanging on the plane:
1. Attached magneto back-plates.
2. Attached and safetied tach drive cover.
3. Positioned engine hoist and engine in position.


 
Aug 24, 2021     Cabin heat box; Second firewall wire passthrough - (2.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Ran a bead of Biotherm between the cabin heat box and the firewall, and installed the front side of the cabin heat valve. (Due to close clearances from the supporting structure on the cabin side of the firewall, I had to modify the back side flange a bit, and also file down the edges of two washers.)
2. Finished drilling the attach holes for the flanges of the second firewall passthrough, deburred them (and the main hole), then attached the flanges and the fire sleeve with two stainless clamps. This passthrough is now ready to accept all the engine sensor wires.


 
Aug 23, 2021     Engine control cables - (1.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began fitting the engine control cables, to see what needs to be modified. As I expected, the 1" circular hole in the gear tower specified by Vans for the throttle quadrant cables is absurdly wrong. There's simply no way three cables can pass through the quadrant support angle and bend to fit through a 1" hole less than an inch away from the angle. So I got out the nibbling tool and files and made the hole into a triangle that's big enough to accommodate the three cables.


 
Aug 14, 2021     Engine safetying - (1.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Safety-wired engine-driven fuel pump.
2. Removed oil filter to get access to tach drive. (Had to use several serious tools to get it off, which trashed the filter.)
3. Installed and safety-wired the tach drive cover.


 
Aug 13, 2021     Firewall passthroughs for misc. push-pull cables - (2.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Located and drilled large holes for the alternate air and oil cooler shutter cable, plus 12 attach holes.
2. Located and drilled four attach holes for the secondary wiring passthrough.
3. Deburred all holes with files and Dremel grinding bits.


 
Aug 09, 2021     Engine control cable holes - (1.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Finished drilling cable passthrough attach holes.
2. Routed the cables from the cockpit to check clearances.


 
Jul 20, 2021     Fuel pump shroud - (0.4 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. A mechanic from the local engine shop helped me mount the fuel pump and its cooling shroud. He was able to do it with almost no issues, which was amazing to watch.
2. Today I also traded out a pitot/static T-fitting on the AHRS for a different colored one, just for uniformity's sake.


 
Jul 12, 2021     Engine control cable holes - (2.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Located and marked three locations for the engine controls to pass through the firewall.
2. Drilled all three holes to 1-1/8" using a step-drill. Deburred the holes using a Dremel tool.
3. Began drilling the 18 attach holes for the pass-throughs.


 
Jul 11, 2021     Fuel pump shroud - (2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Worked for a couple of hours trying to get the fuel pump cooling shroud mounted to the engine. In order to get the pump drive pin in to its full "up position, I had to lift the engine's pallet with a floor jack, then use the engine hoist to lift it, then detach the mounting lugs on the prop flange, then rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees. Even with the pin in the full up position, and my friend Jim helping me, I was not able to get the pump seated on the engine properly. I might need professional help.


 
Jul 04, 2021     Fuel pump; Mag RPM sensor; Exhaust - (1.9 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Removed engine-driven fuel pump from engine.
2. Cut and filed the aluminum fuel pump cooling shroud so it would fit well over the pump.
3. Attempted to reinstall the fuel pump with the shroud around it, but for some reason the pump screws are next to impossible to thread into the case.
4. Installed the RPM sensor on the left mag.
5. Opened and inventoried all components of the Vetterman exhaust system I just received.


 
Jun 02, 2021     Prop governor - (0.6 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Installed prop governor on the engine. (It took me while to find the proper torque to use for the nuts, but I finally verified it at 140 in/lbs).
2. Removed the canopy in anticipation of working with the engine control cables and throttle quadrant.

Thanks for the help, Jim.


 
Jan 21, 2021     Relay panel on firewall - (2.7 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Finished fabricating the relay panel. Attached it to the firewall.
2. Completed most of the major wiring connections on the panel, including installing two large crimp connectors for the main power feeds.

Notes: The 60-amp ANL current limiter will be replaced by an 80-amp one as soon as my next shipment from Aircraft Spruce arrives. Several Adel clamps are also yet to be installed, and there are still some wires to hook up and cover boots to install.


 
Jan 20, 2021     Mag leads; relay platform - (4.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Fabricated both mag leads. These will be installed after I drill the holes for the throttle/mixture/prop cables, since they will be very close to each other.
2. Attached both ANL current limiter blocks to be relay platform.
3. Fabricated the two power feeds that connect the input side of the starter relay to the Main and Essential ANL current limiters.
4. Decided to pitch my first attempt at the copper bar that connects the main and starter relay. I had used a pretty gentle radius on its bend, and this meant the nut that holds it to the main relay wasn't sitting totally flush on the bar.. So I re-made the bar, using a sharper bend. This one worked well.


 
Jan 19, 2021     Relay panel on firewall; magneto leads - (3.2 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Began fabricating the magneto leads.

2. Drilled holes in firewall and first bulkhead for magneto leads. Inserted bushings. Planned routing and support clamp installation.

3. Continued assembling firewall relay panel. Fabricated copper connector bar between main relay and starter relay. Fabricated jumper between main relay and battery bus.

4. Ran final two power leads from circuit breaker panel for GTN650.


 
Jan 18, 2021     Relay panel on firewall - (2.8 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Countersunk and deburred all holes in the relay plate.
2. Riveted all nutplates on the relay plate. Rivited plate to attach angles.
3. Cleaned and alodined plate.
4. Masked and primed plate.
5. Painted plate with high-temperature ceramic engine paint, except for the area that will be under the starter solenoid (since it needs a fuselage ground underneath it)..

6. Ran both fuel quantity wires from the wing roots to the GEA 24 [No photo].


 
Jan 17, 2021     Relay panel on firewall - (3.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Continued fabricating the firewall standoff plate that will hold the master relay, starter relay, ANL current limiter, and battery bus:

1. Drilled and match-drilled the angles to the firewall. Drilled all attach holes to final size.
2. Countersunk four attach holes so starter relay and ANL 40 current limiter will lay flat.
3. Laid out and verified the locations of all the components. Modified a couple of positions slightly.
4. Drilled and deburred all holes for the nutplates.


 
Jan 16, 2021     Relay panel on firewall - (2.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began fabricating the relay panel:

1. Cut 5"x9" plate from stock. Cut two 9" Z-channels. Deburred and cleaned up both.
2. Clamped plate to channels and fitted to firewall. Marked centerlines of existing structure and upper rivet line. Laid out spacing for attach screws.


 
Jul 25, 2020     Engine prep; Baggage shelf - (2.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Did some basic prep of the engine for hanging, and planned the installation of the prop governor. Decided to borescope the cylinders to take a peek inside, and was not pleased with what I saw. More later.
2. Installed nutplates in the aft baggage shelf for the bulkhead attach point, then opened up all the other screw holes to full size.


 
Jul 21, 2020     Engine mount attach; Engine inspection - (1.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. Opened engine crate and inspected engine. Found that the dessicant plugs turned pink since the last inspection, so I will be removing and drying them.
2. Final-attached the engine mount to the firewall . Torqued and secured nuts.


 
Jun 22, 2009     Cooling ramp -- vibration-deadening mats - (1.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
After examining an issue several RV-8 owners have reported -- cracks on the lower cooling ramp, aft of the firewall -- I decided to install some special vibration-deadening pads on the inside of the ramp. The stuff I used is called "Dynamat Xtreme." Teenagers use it to stop rattles in the door panels of their cars when they crank the volume of their stereos up to "11." You can buy Dynamat online, or at Best Buy. It's not very heavy (less than 0.3 lbs for my installation) but it's very dense.

For an RV-8, all you need is the "speaker kit," Part # 10415, which consists of two 10"x10" sheets of the stuff. (Not sure how much you'd need for other RV models.) Once you get the backing sheet off, it's REALLY sticky, so make sure you place it correctly the first time. I covered the entire skin, plus the stiffener that runs across it.

This stuff really does deaden the skin when you knock on the outside, as compared to the adjacent skins. Hope it works. Can't hurt, I suppose.


 
May 14, 2009     Firewall straightening - (.5 hour) Category: Firewall Forward
The 2x4 that I clamped to the firewall last weekend did help straighten the firewall a bit (from 22 down to 19 degrees), but it clearly was never going to achieve the required 8 degrees I need. After fiddling with various ideas to overbend it backwards a bit, I simply removed the 2x4 and bent the top of the firewall by hand. It worked fine -- I got the required 8-degree bend pretty easily.

Clecoced the top skin on the fuselage and confirmed that the forward edge of the baggage door opening was not being pulled by the firewall anymore.
 
May 09, 2009     Firewall passthrough; Firewall straightening       Category: Firewall Forward
Today I decided to install one of the flame-resistant firewall passthrough fixture kits I bought from Avery Tools last year at Oshkosh, This involved locating a good spot for it (in my case, below the battery mount, near the bottom of the electrical "hell-hole" under the forward baggage compartment), drilling a 1-1/8" hole with a unibit, and drilling the attach holes using the fixture as a drill guide. After a bit of deburring, and attaching the fixture with stainless hardware, I clamped the firesleeve on the completed fixture, and it's ready to go. The final steps, which will make it fully fireproof, will take place after the last wire is installed through it.

I also cut a 2x4 and clamped it to the bend in the firewall, in an effort to reduce its prebend to a bit closer to the 8 degrees of bend it should have. This will reduce the firewall's slight pull on the baggage door opening, which has very little structural support.


 
Mar 18, 2009     Engine mount attachment - (.9 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
I drilled the four engine-mount attach holes on the firewall out to their final size of 3/8" and bolted the engine mount in place semi-permanently.


 
Oct 06, 2008     Battery box mounting - (.8 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Attached the battery box to the firewall.


 
Oct 02, 2008     Battery box - (1.0 hour) Category: Firewall Forward
Riveted all 4 attach angles to the battery box. Drilled, prepped, primed, and painted the battery hold-down bar.
 
Sep 30, 2008     Battery box - (.6 hour) Category: Firewall Forward
Sprayed the final two coats of gloss black, high-temperature paint on the battery box. Riveted the two nutplates on the powder-coated attach angles that will connect the battery hold-down bar.
 
Sep 24, 2008     Battery box - (.3 hour) Category: Firewall Forward
Painted the battery box components. The box was painted with gloss black, 500-degree high-temperature enamel, and the attach angles were painted with light gray enamel.
 
Sep 23, 2008     Battery box - (1.6 hours) Category: Firewall Forward
With the help of Chris and Jim, I lifted the fuselage and attached shortened legs to the false spars. Now, the fuselage sits at the perfect height to work on it while bending over from floor-level.

I finished fabricating the battery attach angles, drilled and clecoed them to the firewall, then removed and deburred all components. The lower angle will be attached to the firewall with six rivets, and there will be two AN-3 bolts that pass though also, holding the forward angle to the firewall. After trimming about 1/4" off the upper and lower attach angles, I prepped and primed them.
 
Sep 05, 2008     Battery box modifications and installation - (5.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
After a lot of on-the-spot engineering and discussion with various people, I decided to mount the battery box on its side instead of facing up. This will make it easier to replace the battery, and the Odysseys don't care which way they're mounted. I put the fuselage on its floor rack and removed the rotisserie attachment, then temporarily fitted the engine mount with scrap bolts, just to get an idea of clearance issues with the battery box.

Other builders have mentioned that you have to be careful that you don't mount the box too far outboard, causing interference problems between the battery and the firewall flange or cowl hinge. I got around that by angling the opening of the battery box 6 degrees away from the firewall. (Great suggestion, Jim!) I fabricated new upper and lower attach angles, back-drilled them to the existing holes in the box, then cut off the "top" leg of the existing powder-coated angles so they can be re-used for their intended purpose -- to hold the battery in place.

The upper three AN3 attach bolts go through the baggage compartment floor support angle, and I fabricated a second, lower angle which will be riveted to the firewall.

A great benefit of this design is that I'll still be able to bolt stuff on the back side of the firewall abeam where the battery is, because there's room behind the battery mount for bolt heads!


 
Sep 03, 2008     Battery box - (.3 hour) Category: Firewall Forward
Clecoed the battery attach angles to the battery box, then held it up to the firewall to see what the best location for mounting it might be. I also cut a section of 0.63" angle that will be attached to the backside of the firewall. The top three AN3 bolts will go though this.
 
Aug 30, 2008     Battery hold-down bar (v.2) - (1.5 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
A couple of weeks ago, I fabricated the battery hold-down bar, but I wasn't fully pleased with the results. One of the lightening holes was drilled slightly misaligned with the others. It was certainly 100% functional, but the aesthetics of it bothered me. Today, I re-fabricated the battery hold-down bar, and this time it came out to my standards.


 
Aug 21, 2008     Battery box - (.8 hour) Category: Firewall Forward
I drilled the battery box attach angles to the box, then removed, deburred, dimpled (and countersunk in six places) the angles and the box. The box is now ready to get a coat of high-temperature, gloss black paint to make it look nice.
 
Aug 17, 2008     Battery box - (.7 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Finished cutting the lightening holes in the Odyssey battery box.


 
Aug 16, 2008     Battery box - (1.4 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Began fabricating the battery hold-down bar, and began cutting the eight lightening holes in the Odyssey battery box. I used a fly-cutter mounted in a hand-held electric drill. Sounds scary, but it works okay if you go slow and clamp everything down good and tight.

Nevertheless, that grimace on my face reflects the ill-advised technique of using a fly-cutter mounted in a hand-held drill. I wouldn't do it this way again.


 
May 05, 2008     Battery mount - (1.1 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Today I began fabricating the components of the firewall-mounted battery tray. I cut the F-877B, F-877C, and F-877D parts from raw stock, but didn't make any of the specified angles or bends on them.

Before I go any further with this project, I need to find an old Odyssey battery to use as a pattern for the modifications I'm going to make to Van's stock Concorde mount.


 
Oct 22, 2007     Battery box - (.5 hour)       Category: Firewall Forward
Completed the attachment of the battery box to the firewall, with the help of a friend who bucked the six rivets in the attach angles. I test-fit the battery and the engine mount, just to get an idea of where I'll have to drill holes in the firewall.


 
Sep 11, 2007     GPS antenna mount - (2.3 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
Recently, a fellow RV-builder friend showed me an interesting GPS antenna mount that one of our mutual friends had fabricated for him. The mount was intended to go on the upper firewall, where the antenna would have a clear view of the sky, at least from a radio-wave standpoint. The mount, however, was made of heavy-gauge stainless steel! It weighed at least a couple of pounds, so of course my friend opted to copy its otherwise ideal design, but make it out of lightweight aluminum.

I borrowed the steel monster and replicated it for myself today. I began by tracing the mount on a piece of stiff posterboard, then tweaking the dimensions so they were perfect. Then I cut out the posterboard and traced its edges onto a sheet of 0.040" aluminum, cut it out, trimmed and polished the edges, and bent it in a bending brake. Then, I cut two 4-1/4" lengths of heavy aluminum angle, trimmed and polished them, then clamped them to the sides of the mount, drilled the eight rivet holes, and deburred all the parts.

I'll leave it clecoed like this until it's time to mount it to the firewall. At that time, the mounting holes will be drilled. I'll also figure out the exact antenna placement in the mount. It's big enough to hold both the Garmin GPS/XM antenna and a second GPS antenna.

After that project, I sanded and test-painted the half-dozen components of the throttle quadrant assembly. I want to see how the color I've chosen works with the light gray color I'll be using for the interior.


 


NOTE: This information is strictly used for the EAA Builders Log project within the EAA organization.     -     Policy     -     © Copyright 2024 Brevard Web Pro, Inc.